
Travel guides to Oakland, by long-standing tradition, often start off with that quote by famous Oakland resident Gertrude Stein, who said of the city, "There is no there there." The quote takes Stein's rumination out of context, as she was describing how upon returning to Oakland after many years away, she found that the house in which she grew up no longer existed. Although Oakland is often overshadowed by tourist-friendly San Francisco across the bay, and politically famous Berkeley to the north, Oakland exemplifies both the best and the worst of the Bay Area in general.
For the visitor, "There" is most easily found in one of Oakland's beautiful neighborhoods and interesting, if somewhat eccentric, shopping districts. Oakland, like New York, is constituted of a number of very distinct, village-like neighborhoods, all of which play host to a heady mix of cultures and peoples.
Since the 1960's, Oakland has been a hub of radical culture, and is known as the birthplace of both the Black Panther Party and the Hell's Angels. Oakland's history in the arts and entertainment arena is notable as well, as Oakland has nurtured or been a second home to novelists Jack London, Gertrude Stein, Amy Tan, and Maya Angelou; actors Mark Hamill, Danny Glover, Bruce Lee, and Tom Hanks; architect Julia Morgan, classical conductor Calvin Simmons, graphic-novel author Daniel Clowes, and many more notables in the liberal arts and sciences.
According to the 2000 Census, Oakland is one of the most ethnically diverse cities in the United States (a title it shares with Long Beach, California) - with over 150 Languages spoken. Reflecting this, a number of annual events are held in Oakland, such as the Art & Soul Weekend (held on Labor day weekend), the Cinco de Mayo Fruitvale Festival Parade (early May), the Chinatown Streetfest (late August) and the Oakland Holiday Parade in December.
Oakland International Airport (IATA: OAK) is served by many domestic and international carriers, including Southwest Airlines and JetBlue. There is private shuttle service ($10-$25) to hotels in Oakland and San Francisco, and public transit service (AirBART, and AC Transit Route 50 or Route 805) to the Oakland Coliseum BART Station (which is adjacent to the similarly named Amtrak Capitol Corridor station).
Other air travel options include the San Francisco (IATA: SFO) and San Jose (IATA: SJC) International Airports. SFO, with its BART station, is the more convenient of the two. Those flying into San Jose might have to battle significant traffic, pay for an expensive van or taxi ride, or take VTA's Airport Flyer (Route 10) to the Santa Clara Caltrain Station, then Caltrain to the Millbrae Intermodal Station, and then BART toward Oakland. (From SFO and Millbrae, BART provides direct service to West Oakland, Lake Merritt, Fruitvale, and Coliseum stations; those traveling to other Oakland stations, such as Oakland City Center/12th Street, must change trains no later than West Oakland.)
For private pilots, Oakland Airport (ICAO: KOAK) has a separate General Aviation area "North Field", essentially the equivalent of another airport to the north of the commercial facilities, with separate tower, taxiways, and radio frequencies. Its long runway is frequently used for jet travel, and Oakland makes a far better GA destination than San Francisco's (ICAO: KSFO) complex, heavily trafficked field.
Oakland is served by the regional rail system Bay Area Rapid Transit (BART) and the nationwide, long-distance rail service Amtrak, with the Bay Area's largest Amtrak station located in the neighboring city of Emeryville.
BART connects to Oakland from stations in San Francisco, the Peninsula, Contra Costa County, and the far northeastern reach of Silicon Valley. Prices vary by distance, but a one-way ticket to Oakland is usually $2-4.
The following Amtrak lines serve the Oakland station at Jack London Square, an easy twenty-minute walk away from the center of Downtown:
The California Zephyr route (Emeryville, California to Chicago, Illinois) starts and ends at the nearby Emeryville Amtrak station, accessible on public transit by AC Transit lines 19 and 57 and by the Emery-Go-Round shuttle to the Macarthur BART station in the Temescal neighborhood.
AC Transit Route 50 (day) and Route 805 (owl) provide fast, frequent, inexpensive, 24-hour bus service between the Oakland Coliseum area and the Oakland International Airport. Amtrak Capitol Corridor customers pay $0; ask your train conductor for a Transit Transfer. BART customers pay $1.50; take a BART-to-bus transfer from the white machine, before leaving the paid area of the BART station. The second part of either transfer is valid for a discounted return trip within several days. Otherwise, AC Transit's regular cash fare is $1.75.
AirBART is a direct bus shuttle between the Oakland International Airport and the Oakland Coliseum BART train station. The shuttle costs $3.00 for adults and $0.50 for children, seniors and persons with disabilities. AirBART accepts fare payment in the form of prepaid BART tickets, available just inside the BART station's entrance; you can also pay by inserting two $1 bills into the machine on the bus.
From San Francisco, Highway 80 east over the beautiful Bay Bridge leads to Highways 580, 880, and 980, which go to east, west, and downtown Oakland respectively.
From Marin, Sonoma, and other counties along the northern coast of California, take US-101 to Highway 580 and cross the Richmond Bridge. 580 leads directly into Oakland.
From Monterey, Salinas, and the Central Coast, follow US-101 to San Jose and connect to Highway 880, which leads to Oakland.
From Modesto, and the Central Valley's southern portion (Southern California, too), take the scenic Highway 580 over the Altamont Pass.
From Stockton, either follow the Altamont Pass route or take Highway 4 through Contra Costa County to Highway 242, then to Highway 680, which connects to Highway 24.
From Contra Costa County, Highway 24 through the Caldecott Tunnel leads to north Oakland.
From the northern Vallejo, Fairfield, and the greater Sacramento, Highway 80 west leads directly to Oakland.
Most northern entries to Oakland go through the heinous MacArthur Maze, a spaghetti-like mashup of four freeways trying to merge and pass each other. It's got terrible traffic during commute times (7AM-10AM, 4PM-8PM), so you might want to avoid driving on the freeways at these times.
Specific AC Transit Transbay bus routes run between San Francisco's Transbay Terminal and different parts of Oakland. Some run as often as every 15 minutes. The Transbay All Nighter (Route 800) serves (San Francisco's) Market Street, the Transbay Terminal, Oakland, Berkeley and Richmond. Additional All Nighter routes link other areas with Oakland, after BART shuts down for the night.
Greyhound [2] has a terminal conveniently located in downtown Oakland, on San Pablo Ave. near 20th St. It's notorious -- be careful.
The Alameda-Oakland Ferry has departures from both Pier 41 and the Ferry Building in San Francisco, weekdays year-round and weekends except for mid-winter. Its Oakland terminal is at the foot of Clay St. in Jack London Square. (On summer weekends there are also trips to Angel Island, an island park in the middle of the bay, formerly an immigration station.)
The AC Transit bus system service is a good way to get around if you're headed for downtown Oakland, Jack London Square, the Grand Lake district, or Temescal. Otherwise, depending on where you're going, it can seem like you're waiting for a long time for the bus to arrive. The AC Transit costs $1.75 for adults. Add $0.25 for transfers. BART provides easy access to the Downtown, Fruitvale, and Rockridge areas, and makes for an easy day-trip from San Francisco. The last return train runs at about 12:15.
BART has 8 convenient stops on major areas on visitor interest, which makes it perhaps the best way for a non-local to experience Oakland. A majority of these stations are adjacent and of walking distance to popular neighborhoods, eliminating car and parking hassles. Furthermore, BART stations are usually named after the neighborhood they are located in. For example, to visit the chic Rockridge neighborhood, exit the Rockridge BART station, conveniently located steps from this area. Same goes for the Fruitvale District (Fruitvale BART station). Lake Merritt BART station is only a block away from the Oakland Museum of CA. Chinatown is 3 blocks from the 12 Street/City Center BART station.
Those hoping to go to the hills are probably best off in a car, as bus service to these areas is sparse.
Downtown Oakland contains some excellent Asian foods that are as authentic as anything else you'll find in the Bay Area.
The Grand Lake neighborhood contains an eclectic mix of restaurants, from high-end to drive-thrus.
The Piedmont Avenue neighborhood is a foodie's delight. From gourmet Bay Wolf and Jojo to Baja Taqueria great food abounds.
tumble & tea cafe 4210 Telegraph Avenue, 510-601-7378. At tumble & tea café, we only serve the freshest food made from the best ingredients. We make mouth watering breakfast, paninis, salads, soups, espresso drinks & desserts. Our bread, pastries and produce are delivered daily. Coffee snobs need not to worry at tumble & tea café.
We also pride ourselves on providing excellent customer service. To create a comfortable environment for all of our customers (adults, kids & adults with kids) we built a fabulous play space for children ages newborn to 5 years of age. Let your kids play on the train table, castle or climbing structure while you relax and have time to take care of you. Breakfast, lunch & weekend brunch- Kid friendly cafe- FREE WIFI www.tumbleandteacafe.com
Located in a residential neighborhood, you will find this cozy restaurant that has a flair of Southern Asia flavors. The mix of Vietnamese, Lao, Thai and Mien cuisine makes this restaurant a unique one. Make sure to get an order of Pad Thai, the best in Oakland!
Oakland's vibrant Latino community, a 10 block strip located on International Boulevard adjacent to the Fruitvale BART station, is a host to some of the best (and most inexpensive) Mexican food in the Bay Area. Although the recently built "Fruitvale Village" shopping area next to the BART station has several new restaurants, they are probably worth visiting. If one prefers real local flavor, one should visit the following:
Essential eateries are:
Widely regarded to have the best tacos, but offers a wide array of options (burritos, enchiladadas, tortas, etc) and dinner plates. Most items are less than $5, have medium-large portions, and have generous ingredients (dinner plates are less than $10 and are "a la carte"). Another plus is the free self serve restaurant-made tortilla chips and delicious salsa and guacamole. Plenty of room to sit inside this historic and creatively decorated restaurant, or sit outside on the patio and enjoy the sunshine. Good for lunch or dinner, and open until 10 pm.
A small, outdoor patio restaurant that features seafood but has the regular fare of typical Mexican restaurants. All items are less than $5 and are generally spicy, so make sure you request no salsa or jalapenos if that is your preference. A former burger joint turned-taqueria, this eatery is good for lunch and best enjoyed in fair weather with a refreshing agua fresca, as tables are exclusively on the outdoor patio. Open until 7pm.
Could be considered the best taco truck in Oakland, with fare that by far beats any restaurant. Their burritos are over 12" and unbeatable. Contrary to popular belief, taco trucks (especially this one) are sanitary and have much better food than what one can usually find in standard restaurants. As there is no where to sit, one must eat food standing next to the taco truck (which is the option of many workers who have lunch/dinner there) or eat elsewhere, preferably on a bench in the pleasant "Fruitvale Village" adjacent to the Fruitvale BART station 5 blocks west.
This is home of the original Banh Mi Sandwich. The restaurant's origins and claim to fame is that they introduced banh mi sandwiches to California in the early 80s. The $2.50 sandwiches are cheaper than many taco-truck burritos.
To get the real essence of "Chinatown," Oakland rather than San Francisco is your best bet. There are innumerable places to eat, not only Chinese restaurants, but Japanese and some Vietnamese as well. Chances are, any place you choose to venture in will have inexpensive and great food.
This is the best restaurant in Chinatown for a mix of Chinese and Vietnamese cuisine. Be sure to order a noodle soup and fish cake(with a sweet and sour salad)!
Although Oakland Mayor Jerry Brown has visited this place (a framed picture of him and the restaurant owner is proudly displayed), this restaurant has the characteristics of a local, "dirty but delicious" gem. Entrees are inexpensive and flavorful. Often crowded with local Chinese, and so when busy one may have to wait a while to get a table. And another note; that manager in the framed picture with the Mayor? Yes, that was the same man that led you to your table and gave you the menus.
The neighborhood centered on International Blvd and 8th Avenue is not officially named "Little Saigon" but may as well be, as this area has predominantly Vietnamese shops and restaurants. As Vietnamese is the language of choice, it will take some creativity when seeking restaurants and ordering food, but it's well worth the effort for those unbeatable $2 French-inspired Vietnamese sandwiches and the infinite varieties of Pho.