
Monterey[1] is one of the more beautiful coastal cities of California and can make for a great two day trip for those visiting San Francisco or a weekend getaway for California natives. It was originally the state capital of California, and has more historic buildings in its downtown than any other city west of Santa Fe. Today it is most commonly known for its beautiful coastline, its world-class aquarium and from the many John Steinbeck novels that used the town as their setting, including Cannery Row and Tortilla Flat.
Rugged terrain and vicious Pacific currents made much of the California coast virtually unexplorable to European ships. After a disastrous attempt to explore this new territory by sea, Spanish missionaries in Mexico launched a series of overland expeditions from San Diego. Monterey was established in 1770 by Father Junipero Serra and soon became a Spanish military base with a small fort or "presidio" located near a calm harbor that could provide shelter to supply ships. The military presence eventually gave way to a thriving commercial trade that brought in many enterprising foreign merchants.
Once Mexico gained its independence from Spain, Monterey became the capital of Alta California under Mexican rule. From this era come many classic stories of flirtation, fashion, and politics in the Mexican colonial era. Lands once owned by the government began to come into private hands, and local families began to consolidate their property and power into business enterprises based on the ranches or "ranchos," where they raised cattle or invented the famous Monterey Jack cheese.
Monterey soon fell under American power in the Mexican-American War and remained the capital of the territory. A delegation of writers drafted the constitution which marked the entrance of the State of California into the United States of America. This era saw the mass northward migration of ambitious people in search of gold, which led to a near desertion of the town. Monterey soon recovered, however, and today is known for its magnificent natural beauty, world famous Aquarium, and temperate year-round climate.
The Monterey Peninsula has the largest population of sea otters on the California coast. The abundance of marine wildlife visible from the shoreline is one of the primary attractions of the region. Seals, sea lions, and sea otters are visible year-round, and migrating whales are commonly seen in the fall and spring months.
Monterey is on State Highway 1, which meanders slowly along the coast. It's about 25 miles from US 101.
Note... taken at the right time of day and in good weather, Hwy 17 can actually be enjoyable, but realize it is in fact very curvy and hilly and won't provide the option for much sightseeing as a result. Although it is oft traveled by road-warrior locals, even an everyday, confident driver could take it on. But as forewarned - don't expect it to be a timesaver at busy driving times (unless of course Santa Cruz is your final destination and you are heading South). Do otherwise opt for routes 101 and 156W if you're rushed or it's a busy time.
Amtrak's Coast Starlight [2] passes through nearby Salinas. Amtrak runs a bus service from the station to the major hotels of Monterey.
MST runs a bus service (which is a part of Amtrak's Thruway) from San Jose to Monterey Transit Plaza (temporarily diverted to nearby stops for road construction). The ticket costs $10 (one way).
The recently reorganized Monterey Peninsula Airport offers regular flights to San Francisco, Los Angeles, Phoenix, Denver, Salt Lake City, and Las Vegas. From the airport a short drive will take you west along Highway 68 and onto southbound Highway 1, where the two right lanes lead straight downtown.
Alvarado Street serves as downtown Monterey's "main drag." It is along this road that you will find superb restaurants, a selection of bars, and many unique shops. Monterey's compact downtown is very walkable. WARNING: The Cannery Row area (where the Aquarium is located) has an aggressive, expensive parking ticket policy. A few minutes over at a meter and you will be welcomed to town with a $25 parking ticket.
A car is advisable if you plan on taking any side trips to surrounding towns. Garage parking is available, and street parking is often free for periods of two hours, on weekends, and after 6PM. Many local hotels offer parking for an additional charge.
Monterey-Salinas Transit [3] provides relatively convenient public bus service to the nearby towns of Carmel and Pacific Grove, as well as to historical Salinas and breathtaking Big Sur. MST also provides a "wine route" which stops at several of the area's most notable wineries [4]. MST also runs a trolley like bus [5] through Monterey's downtown during the summer months and especially busy weekends.
The local specialties are artichokes and sanddabs. Artichokes can be found at nearly every restaurant - fried, grilled, broiled, boiled, in soup, on pizza and almost any other way you can imagine. The nearby town of Castroville is "the artichoke center of the world," and the local source for the wealth of artichokes. Sanddabs are a local seafood, often served fried. Clam Chowder in sourdough bread can be found at Fisherman´s Wharf. Abalone is available, too, but expensive. The area is notable for other seafood delicacies, including calamari and Dungeness crab.
The Monterey Bay Aquarium runs a "Seafood Watch" program, and keeps a list of which sea life is overfished and which are safe, and environmentally friendly, to eat. Pick a copy of the list up at the Aquarium, or around town. Many local restaurants have signed on to the Seafood Watch program.
Monterey's status as a tourist destination have provided it with a wealth of restaurants beyond what might be expected in a community this size. Almost every cuisine, from oriental to occidental, may be found represented - and usually represented well - in the local area, including the neighbouring communities of Pacific Grove, Seaside, and Carmel-by-the-Sea and the Carmel Valley.
Monterey has many superb vineyards located near the town. There are a number of tasting rooms located on Cannery Row, all within an easy walk. Some, such as Scheid Vineyards, Bargetto Winery, Baywood Cellars and Silver Mountain Vineyards provide wines from only one winery. A Taste of Monterey allows visitors to try wines from throughout Monterey County, while taking in a spectacular panoramic view of Monterey Bay through their windows.
In addition, the public bus service Monterey-Salinas Transit has a route, Number 24, that is also called "The Grapevine Express". This route leaves from downtown Monterey and stops at all the wineries in nearby Carmel Valley.[32] A daypass on the Grapevine Express, which allows riders to hop on and off at will, is $4.50 as of December, 2008.[33] Grapevine Express maps and schedules, which detail the wineries that the route stops at, are available at Monterey County Visitors Centers.
Alvarado Street has the densest collection of bars and pubs in the area. The Mucky Duck [34] is famous for its weekly trivia nights, while Lalapalooza has the widest selection of martinis.
Just across the Customs House Plaza (behind the Portola Plaza Hotel) you can find Indian Summer [35], a hookah bar with an exotic atmosphere and local brews. Try to plan a visit during a live bellydancing show.
On Cannery Row, Blue Fin offers drinks , a bar menu, billiards, and music (and it has been closed since 2006). Just across the street, Sly McFly's [36] provides live musical entertainment most nights of the week.
Carbones Old School New Rules is on the 200 Block of Lighthouse Ave. This is a fantastic bar featuring a large back patio area with fire pit. On Fridays and Saturdays Carbones OSNR features both live music and belly dancers and on Sunday features free pool.
Relatively limited offerings on the club front include Club Octane [37] downtown, Doc Rickett's Lab, and Planet Gemini [38] (which often hosts live comedy nights) on Cannery Row.