For a great day trip, head out to Bongoyo Island. Bongoyo is a small, uninhabited island just off the coast. The boat to Bongoyo leaves from Slipway, the upscale set of shops and markets on the Msasani Peninsula, just north of Dar es Salaam. A taxi from the city center should run you 7,000 Tsh. The first boat leaves at 9:30AM, with others at 11:30AM, 1:30PM and 3:30PM, with a minimum of four people. The ferry cost 11,000Tsh and another US$5 for the marine park fee. The return ferries are at 12:30PM, 2:30PM and the last one at 17:00. There is a small restaurant on the island which serves a variety of foods and drinks (chips, fish and chips, egg and chips, beer etc.). Another option is to buy food at the Shoprite at Slipway. You can relax without having to worry about anyone stealing your things. Take a hike around the island, or just relax under a banda on the beach. Bandas are free but a chair cost 1,500Tsh for the day. On the weekend, be sure to get on the first ferry if you want a banda, it gets very busy on Saturday and Sunday. When you come back, you can get ice cream or meal at several of the Slipway restaurants and watch the sun set. You can also check out the Tinga Tinga paintings at the market.

There are quite a number of night clubs in Dar es Salaam. Probably the most popular is Bilicanas, which is lively and sometimes not quite as full of prostitutes as the other clubs. It is popular with locals and ex-pats alike. Music is varied, depending on the night, from local to Congolese to dance to hip-hop. (The only time I've ever heard hip-hop played right before Aqua's "Barbie Girl"; the place goes nuts when they play the cheesy songs). California Dreamers is another club, but it is too full of prostitutes to recommend. There are numerous other smaller clubs that can be fun, but harder to get to.

If you like to have a chillout evening, the Mediterraneo Lounge has a large collection of chill-out music. At the Mediterraneo Hotel & Restaurant Lounge you can enjoy the fantastic view of the Indian Ocean while sipping your favourite drink, and listening to the best lounge & chill-out music in Dar Es Salaam.

• The Zoological Gardens

• National Museum

• Village Museum

• Beaches

Bahari Beach hotel, is about 20km to the north of Dar es Salaam along New Bagamoyo Road. The hotel charges a small fee for non-guests.

Kigamboni and Kipepeo, also called "South Beach", are situated across the channel from the Zanzibar ferry. You can get to the other side by ferry, not the same as for Zanzibar. The ferry station is north of the Zanzibar ferry past the Kilimanjaro Kempinski Hotel near the main fish market. You walk onto the ferry which costs about 500Tsh. The crossing takes about 5 minutes. Once across, you can hire a taxi to take you to the beaches, most of which are accessed through the various hotels along the coast. Public beaches have all been sold to developers. Hotels, such as the Sunrise, will charge a 5,000Tsh entry fee. 3,000TSh of which is returned to you in the form of food vouchers. Most hotels are about 5km from the ferry and you should be able to get there for 10,000 to 15,000Tsh depending on your negotiating skills. There are also daladalas which ply the road to the beaches.

Further south from Kipepeo, 35 km, are Amani [19] and Ras Kutani [20] resorts. These are upscale resorts popular with locals and the ex-pat community. Ras Kutani does not accept children under 6.

Visa

North Americans and Europeans can obtain tourist visas upon landing in Dar es Salaam at a cost of US$50 (US$100 for US passport holders) paid in US dollars. However, some may prefer to get a visa before arriving. A visa can be obtained from the Tanzanian High Commission/Embassy. Fees are US$50 and you will need a passport sized photograph. Normally ready same day.

If you want or need a business visa, you will have to go to the Immigration Headquarter within 5 working days and pay another US$100. You will also need no less than four passport sized photos. If the secretary at your company offers to take care of the procedure, do not forget to ask about the status. They might forget to tell you if something is missing.

At the airport, stand in the visa line, which is on the right hand side of the queue for passport control. It can get a bit hectic because several international flights arrive almost simultaneously, so ask others where the queue starts. Once you've received your visa, there's no need to stop at passport control; they issue the visa and stamp you in at the same time, so just walk through to the baggage claim area.

By plane

Tanzania's main airport is located in Dar es Salaam, Julius Nyerere International Airport - (IATA:DAR) (formerly known as Mwalimu Julius K. Nyerere International Airport and Dar es Salaam International Airport).

The airport is 10 km from the city center and 20 km from the Msasani Peninsula. Most large hotels offer a pick-up and drop-off service upon request. A taxi from the airport to the city center should cost between 10,000TSh and 20,000TSh, but many will ask for as much as US$40. Prices will be higher at night. If you can't get a decent price, walk to the main road and flag a taxi, it may be cheaper. Do not do this at night. As of June 2008, petrol is about US$1.50/liter and climbing, this in a country where people earn less than $1 a day. Fares may rise quickly. Daladalas are also available if you walk out the the main road. Look for those marked POSTA, which is the main Post Office in the city center. Hitchhiking is uncommon and most drivers will expect some form of payment from foreigners.

Dar es Salaam is served Internationally from:

Europe by:

• KLM Royal Dutch Airlines (Amsterdam), +255 22 213 9790, [1], daily flights with a stopover in Kilimanjaro.
• British Airways (London-Heathrow), +255 22 211 3820, [2], 3 flights a week (Tuesday, Friday and Sunday) flights.
• Swiss International Airlines (Zurich), +255 22 211 8870, [3], 5 flights a week (Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday) with a stopover in Nairobi, Kenya.

Middle East and Asia by:

• Emirates (Dubai), +255 22 211 6100, [4], Daily flights.
• Qatar Airways (Doha), +255 22 284 2675, [5], 1019, Julius Nyerere International Airport, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania, Daily flights.
• Air India (Mumbai), +255 22 215 2642, [6], 3 flights a week (Monday, Wednesday and Friday)

Africa by

• South African Airways (Johannesburg), +255 22 211 7044, [7], Twice daily flights.
• Ethiopian Airlines (Addis Ababa), +255 22 211 7063, [8], Daily flights (except on Monday) with a stopover in Kilimanjaro.
• Kenya Airways (Nairobi), +255 22 211 9376 (Dar) & +255 24 223 8355 (Zanzibar), [9], 3 daily flights with some stopping in Kilimanjaro.
• Air Malawi (Blantyre & Lilongwe), +255 22 212 7746 / 2043, [10], 3 flights a week (Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday)
• Mozambique Airlines a.k.a. LAM – Linhas Aéreas de Moçambique, (Maputo), +255 22 213 4600, [11] e-mail: info@fasttracktanzania.com, 3 flights a week (Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday)
• Air Zimbabwe, (Harare), [12], 2 flights a week (Friday and Sunday)
• Air Uganda, (Entebbe), +256 41 216 5555, [13], 3 flights a week (Monday, Friday and Sunday) to Dar es Salaam, with flights to Kilimanjaro and Zanzibar also.

And Domestically by:

These airlines provide almost daily service to and from Dar es Salaam to all major cities including Arusha, Mwanza, Mbeya, Zanzibar, Kilimanjaro and most national parks.

• Air Tanzania, +255 22 211 8411, [14], email: bookings@airtanzania.com. Also fly internationally to Johannesburg daily.
• Precision Air, +255 22 212 1718, [15], Along Nyerere/Pugu Road, P.O Box 70770, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania, email: info@precisionairtz.com or pwreservations@precisionairtz.com. Internationally to Nairobi daily.
• Coastal Aviation, +255 22 211 7959, [16], P. O. Box 3052, 107 Upanga Road, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania, email: safari@coastal.cc
• ZanAir, +255 24 223 3670, [17], P.O.Box 2113, Zanzibar, Tanzania, email: reservations@zanair.com.

Warning: Domestic flights are often late but generally reliable.

Buying Tickets: When purchasing tickets for domestic flights with a credit card, travel agents will add-on a fee ranging anywhere from 3-6% of the ticket price. To avoid the fee, pay for your tickets in cash. There are no additional fees when purchasing tickets for international destinations.

By train

There are two trains running out of Dar Es Salaam from different stations. Tanzania Railroad is a train that travels through the center of Tanzania to Dodoma and further West, even up to Mwanza; however, the train tends to be unreliable, not terribly pleasant, and full of thieves. Tourists should try to travel in groups, and/or buy out a first class cabin. Keep the doors and windows locked, especially when sleeping. The train travels at walking pace much of the time, so it is possible to buy fresh fruit, eggs, and other items out of the windows all along the way.

Tazara runs a much nicer, though not much more on-time train to the south, which goes through part of the Selous Game Reserve, through Mbeya, and down to Kapiri Mposhi in Zambia (about 2 to 3 hours from Lusaka). Tazara has a large train station just out on the edge of town. Visas for Zambia are available on the train. This is a nice but slow way to travel, as it takes about 2 days.

By bus

Bus travel is generally reliable if you pick the right company. It can be somewhat scary as Tanzanians seem to value arriving quickly more than arriving safely ('Mungu akipenda, tutafika' - If god wants it, we shall arrive).

Scandinavia Express [18] used to be quite reliable but has fallen on hard times of late. However, they do travel on a schedule (when in good order) and provide a comfortable ride: some of the buses have air conditioning, and many are 4 seats across instead of the usual 5. Scandinavia run their own bus station in Dar Es Salaam, and tickets should be purchased ahead of time. Note that their cityterminal is far closer to town than central bus station. You can save a few dollars in taxi fares going to hotels in city centre, like those of Libya street area, by using Scandinavian.

If you're traveling to Arusha, Royal Coach is perhaps an even better option. The buses are very nice, have a/c (when working), a bathroom, and travel at 80kph for safety. The Royal Coach ticket office is located downtown near the Jambo Inn and Econolodge: buses leave from here early in the morning as well, although they then wait at the main bus stand for at least an hour.

All other buses leave from Dar Es Salaam's central bus station in Ubungo, just west of the city (TSh5,000 taxi ride from downtown [or more, depending on your negotiation skills]). Here you can find buses to the majority of other cities. Although there are many touts outside of Ubungo's ticket area, they are mostly harmless. If you are put off by them, ask the taxi to take you inside the station for a small extra fee. The ticket offices are located just outside the station, though you can buy the tickets from the bus if you have entered already. This might be a better idea regardless, as you cannot tell the state of the bus from outside, nor how full the bus is (buses will only leave when completely full).

Warning: Some of the cheaper lines run buses which are remarkably dilapidated, uncomfortable, will take a very long time to fill up, and will likely have to stop more often on the way, assuming they make it at all. Bus travel by night is not allowed, so most buses except for those to nearby cities will leave early in the morning.

The nearest dala-dala stand is also called "Ubungo", just down the road: Leaving the bus stand, head right on Morogoro Road, going away from the city; cross Sam Njoma Road, and it will be on the left. Dala-dalas to downtown will be marked "Posta"; people are typically happy to point them out to you if you ask.

Taxi prices from Ubungo are highest inside the stand, where there is a fairly strong cartel (similar to the airport). However there are always taxis outside the stand as well, with whom better prices can be negotiated. If you make a deal with a tout, and not directly with the driver (sitting in the car) the price will include a commission for the tout. Your negotiating position will be affected by things like the weather, time of day, traffic, how many other taxis there are, whether you can bargain in kiswahili, whether you have lots of bags, etc. Starting to walk to the daladala stand can show you're serious about negotiating - actually going there and taking a dala will really save you money.

By car

See the By car in the Get In in the Tanzania article.

By foot

Walking around central Dar is a nice way to see the city and probably the best way to get around. In general people will leave you alone except for the occasional greeting. There aren't many sidewalks in Dar so exercise caution when walking along busy roads.

Cycling

Cycling around Dar is possible but can be difficult and scary. You should be comfortable with cycling in high-congestion areas where cyclist are often low in the food chain. Tanzanians have little patience when driving and in their mind any vehicle smaller than theirs is responsible for getting out the way. Wear a helmet and hone your defensive cycling skills.

Some local tour groups offer guide bicycling tours around the city. This is a good way to get further a field and interact with the locals.

By car

Car hires can be organized through most hotels. Tanzanians drive on the left. Like many developing countries, driving in Dar can be stressful, difficult and dangerous. In addition to potholes, drivers must contend with aggressive taxis and dalla-dallas (see below), poor driving skills by western standards, large potholes, uncovered manholes, few if any streetlights at night, and thieves who remove any exterior part of your vehicle while you’re stopped at traffic lights. During the rainy season you must also navigate through water covered roads that may hide deep potholes and around Tanzanians who dart out into traffic in an effort to get out of the rain, often with little children in tow. In conclusion, driving in Dar should be left to those with driving experience in developing countries.

Choice of vehicle

• If you're only driving in Dar, you can opt for a sedan which will be cheaper on gas and easier to park. You'll still have to go slowly when you're taking secondary roads, many of which aren't sealed.

Navigation

Driving in the city

• Dar's city center is extremely congested from 9AM-6PM from Monday to Friday. There are few traffic lights and the streets are very narrow. It's dog-eat-dog, so offensive driving skills are a must as no one will let you pass if you just sit and wait at stops signs. Streets are crowded with parked and moving cars, SUVs, lorries, scooters, and very muscular men pulling insanely overload carts. People can spend hours stuck in traffic jams, especially around Kariakoo Market.

• There are a few roundabouts in the downtown, which the locals call "keeplefties" because they thought that the sign advising drivers to "Keep Left" when entering the roundabouts was the name of this fascinating Mzungu invention. Mzungu is the Swahili word for "white" foreigners. It is not derogatory; more along the lines of calling a white person a Caucasian.

• When parking on the street in Dar, find a spot to park, then lock your doors and leave. When you return, a parking attendant wearing a yellow florescent vest will approach you for payment. The fee is 300 Tzs for two hours. The attendant should either hand you a ticket or it will already be on your windshield. DO NOT leave without paying if there is a ticket on your windshield, because the attendant will been forced to make up for the missing money, and probably only earns 3000 Tzs a day at best.

Note: Carjackings are uncommon but opening doors or jumping through open windows to steal valuables is not. Keep your windows closed and doors locked. As of February 2008, reports have arisen of thieves aiming for golden and silver earrings at traffic lights, simply ripping them out. When stopped at traffic lights or parked in unattended locations, thieves have been known to steal mirrors, paneling, spare tires and anything that is not either engraved with the license plate number of bolted to the vehicle's body. Choose your parking spots carefully and don't leave valuables in plain sight. You can either offer the parking attendant a small tip to watch your vehicle, 500 to 1000 Tzs, or find a secured parking lot, especially if your leaving the vehicle overnight. Hotels often provide such parking areas.

Routes

Dangers and annoyances

• Tanzanians drive very fast and won't hesitate to overtake in a blind curve or even when there are oncoming vehicles. Always be vigilant.

• The number of drunk drivers involved in serious vehicular accidents has dramatically increased in recent months. Although there are laws against driving under the influence, like many other laws they are poorly enforced, especially at night. Exercise caution when driving at night and around popular nightspots.

• Anytime a dignitary or senior government official is traveling in Dar, police will stop traffic in all directions to ensure the path from their departure point to destination is clear. This can result in extremely long waits and serious traffic congestion that can take hours to clear. Whether you are driving or taking a taxi, ensure that have factored in these frequent road blocks which could easily add one hour to your travel time to the airport.

NOTE: A senior government official has suggested that the Government purchase helicopters to ferry officials and dignitaries to and from the airport and around town in a bid to reduce traffic congestion. Needless to say that this request was not well received by representatives from the various donor countries and international aid agencies.

• If you are involved in an accident with a pedestrian, drive to the nearest police station and advise them. DO NOT exit your vehicle and attempt to resolve the situation even if you are sure it was not your fault. Tanzanians are some of the nicest people you will meet in Africa, but they have been known to take matters, like most of Africans, into their own hands. This is largely due to their mistrust of the police and the belief that anyone with money, e.g. rich foreigners, can buy their way out of a problem.

By taxi

Taxi fares are not fixed. Dar's taxi drivers consider almost all trips within the (poorly defined) city center to be worth a minimum of 2000 Tzs. This can actually be a good deal (one side of the city to the other in peak hour) or a bad deal (when it is a couple of blocks).

A price must be negotiated before your begin traveling, or the price will be considerably higher once you reach your destination. It is not customary to tip your driver. While there are many friendly and honest drivers, some will try their luck and quote an outrageous price to anyone who looks wealthy. Even if you can't see another taxi around, don't agree to it. Another taxi is sure to be just around the corner. It is quite practical to begin walking in the direction you want to go. You'll either find one on the side of the road or one will drive past. Cars owned by drivers are often maintained at a high level; taking a smooth air-conditioned trip around Dar is entirely possible if you know the right driver!

If you plan on hiring a taxi for a long journey, inspect the quality of the tires, which are often extremely worn.

Don't hesitate to tell the driver to slow down. "Pole Pole" in Swahili.

To/from the airport to/from the city center - the average price is 15000 Tzs. This can sometimes be negotiated down, especially if you pay in USD.

To/from city center to/from Msasani Peninsula - should run about 7,000 Tzs.

For a small premium, you can reserve a taxi for the whole day. This can convenient if your visiting a number of places and doing some shopping. You should be able to get it for 30000 Tzs.

Daladala

The most common form of public transportation in Dar are mini-vans which go by the name "daladala". These vans ply a specific route with the start and ending point clearly marked on the front of the vehicle.

You can jump on and off anywhere along the route by simply yelling out, "Shusha!" (pronounced SHOO-sha).

Their popularity is due to the low cost, TSh300/= per ride (as of Aug 2008), and sheer numbers. However, tourists should be aware that drivers will pile in as many people as possible, there is no a/c, some drive like maniacs, and the overall condition of the vehicles is poor, with many frequently breaking down along the way. That being said, travelers should not hesitate to use them for getting around. Watch out for pickpockets as you get into and leave crowded vehicles.

It helps if you know a little Kiswahili and are at least a little familiar with the city when using daladalas. If you’re trying to get to the city center, hop onto any daladala marked 'posta'. They all go to the central post office on Maktaba/Azikiwe St. Since they tend to be very crowded, you should guard your belongings. This is especially true when you are at large bus stations such as Mwenge.

The best part is that locals will often strike up friendly conversations and are always willing to help you with your Kiswahili. Travel by daladala can be quite enjoyable so long as you are on the correct route.

Kangas

For kangas (or khangas), colorful, sarong-like pieces of cloth with Swahili sayings along the bottom, try Kariakoo market or the cloth market on the streets around it. The market has moved a bit recently, but check around south end of Jamhuri St., where there are many textile shops. Here you can also buy kitenge, twice the length of kangas and usually cut in half to form a complete outfit, for around Tzs 4000 each. Try asking in here if you want something like a dress made to measure. Kariakoo is also a good place for fresh food. Watch out for pickpockets.

• Afro Fashion, Samora Avenue, Opposite Extelecom Building (Celtel Point) (Samora Avenue), ☎ 2124066/0784243735. 9am-5pm. T shirts, Batiks, Khanga, Masai Material,Kikoy, Tye & Dye Clothings,Arts & Crafts, Masai Beads, and other popular souvenirs.  edit

Carvings/Crafts

Carvings and other touristy souvenirs can be found all over Dar. Remember that haggling is expected.

There is a fantastic craft market in Mwenge, the Mwenge Carvers' Market. Here you can watch many of the artists make the crafts that are sold throughout the country (although some crafts sold in Tanzania are imported from Kenya). Prices range from expensive to extremely cheap. There are many stalls selling similar things, and if you are savvy, you might be able to pit the vendors against each other. The perk of the Mwenge market is the sheer volume of crafts to choose from. If you like the style of something at a specific store (they tend to carry items made by one or two artists), and you have some time, you can meet the artist and have them custom make something for you. The market closes at dusk. Shopping around this time gets you the best deals.

There is a smaller market at Slipway, which is a good place to get Tinga Tinga paintings and large batiks as well.

Tinga-Tinga Paintings

Local paintings are often executed in a style unique to Tanzania, "tinga-tinga", named after the artist who founded the style, Edward Said Tinga Tinga. Some good places to find them are at the Slipway market, and in the alley off of Haille Selassie Road on the Peninsula, next to QBar.

Fancy/Import Goods

In November 2006, the brand new "Mlimani City" shopping complex opened. As of early 2007, a "Shoprite" supermarket and a "Game" department store, both South African chains, are open for business seven days a week. Although it is a fair distance from the city center, it can be reached by taking a Dalla Dalla or taxi to the Mwenge bus terminal, and walking approximately ten minutes further past the craft market (see below).

If you run out of things to read, there are some surprisingly well stocked English language bookshops called A Novel Idea. See the Books section a little further down for a list of stores.

Electronics/Appliances

There is a good selection of electronics and appliance vendors on Samora Avenue.

Books

There are a number of book stores near the Askari monument at Samora Ave & the Posta Road, selling mostly academic texts / school books.

• A Novel Idea, Slipway, SeaCliff Village, Shoppers Plaza, Steers fast food complex on Ohio Road, ☎ +255 22 601088, [21]. A local chain that sells a wide selection of imported English language books: novels, childrens' books, reference, non-fiction. A pleasant place to spend a few hours.  edit

• "Mlimani City" has a bookstore as well.

Kariakoo

If your looking for an authentic shopping experience, a visit to Kariakoo market, especially on Saturday morning, could be just the thing. WARNING: This is not for everyone. The market is VERY crowded and for some the smells and noises can be overwhelming. If your keen but hesitating, it might be best to find a Tanzanian friend or person familiar with the market to help you navigate around. DO NOT bring any valuables and only bring a small amount of money that you wish to spend, as pickpockets work the area and in the commotion your watch, cell phone, mp3, sunglasses and wallet can be expertly removed, or your nice leather handbag slashed with a razor. I’ve been to the market a fair bit and have witnessed many brazen theft attempts and successful thefts. Even seasoned Kariakoo shoppers occasionally fall prey to these sophisticated teams of thieves.

Haggling: Haggling is expected when purchasing almost anything in Dar. However, on several occasions I've observed unnecessary arrogant and aggressive behaviour from travelers trying to buy carvings and paintings in the various tourist markets. Although it is true that most merchants quote much higher prices to tourists than locals, sometimes three times the price, negotiations should still be undertaken with respect and good humour. Don't expect to pay the same as a local and don't be insulted when you aren't. The reality is that you probably have more money in your pocket than many Tanzanians see in a year. This also applies to backpackers. Remember the extra dollar or two you paid for that carving will most likely be used to buy food for the family. None of these merchants are rich. If you think it's too expensive leave and look elsewhere, don’t call them thieves. Kariakoo is the cheapest market in Tanzania. If you want to buy cheap souvenirs, this is the place for you. If you're a Muzungu (i.e. white person) shop owners will try to charge you much more that is worth. But that will be cheaper than what you get in the city or everywhere else in Tanzania. General rules: African necklaces should not be bought for more than 2000 shilings (the correct price is TS1000 but you won't get that price easily), small drums should be bought for as much as TS4-5000 and soft stone products (hearts, plates, small animals, jewelry boxes etc) should not be purchased for more than 10,000 shilings.

Tanzanite

When it comes to expensive souvenirs, Tanzania has cornered the market with a gemstone that can only be found (mined) in Tanzania, hence the name Tanzanite. Shops selling this exquisite blue stone are located in all major cities and towns, especially those popular with tourists like Zanzibar, Arusha and Dar. Your biggest problem will be knowing that what your getting is the real thing and worth the money your shelling out for it.

The rule of thumb is the darker the gem the more expensive it is. Light colored Tanzanite is genuine just not as sought after as the darker stones. But like all things there is much more to a stone's value than just its colour so do your homework if you plan on spending a lot on one of them.

Grading is on a alphabetical scale with AAA being the best and B being the lightest and cheapest. Expect to pay as much as US$850 per carat for AAA. If, like most visitors, you're new to this gem, buying from a reputable shop, such as Lothys at the Kilimanjaro Hotel Kempinski or Tanzanite Dream might be more expensive but you're assured of what you're getting. Nonetheless, there are several other good shops around Dar where you can get nice pieces or simply buy the gems and have them set back home. Like all things, negotiating is key.

You can get all kinds of delicious meals in Dar. With a large native South Asian population, the Indian food is amazing. Although scattered all over the city, some of the best places are found in and around Zanaki Street.

$ = Cheap (1,000 - 5,000Tsh for a meal for one) $$ = Average (5,000 - 10,000Tsh) $$$ = Moderate (10,000 - 20,000) $$$$ = Expensive (20,000+)

Tanzanian

Traditional Tanzanian food can be had on almost any street. From grilled meats (mishkaki) to BBQ corn on the cob, and chips and eggs (chips maya). If you're looking for something a little more sanitary, there are a number of small hotels and restaurants that serve a buffet style meal at lunch time which offers a variety of Tanzanian stews, deep fried fish and chicken, and vegetables. Some good choices:

• Summy's (aka "Street Chicken") ($) Jamhuri Street NE of Morogoro Road. Grilled marinated chicken, mishkaki, Indian food.

• City Garden ($$) on Garden Avenue, SE side, between Ohio Street and Pemba Road. Fine outdoor ambience, extensive menu, affordable prices, fast service, free bread, real butter, coconut sauces, death by chocolate.

• New Africa Hotel on the corner of Sokoine Drive and Maktaba/Azikiwe Street.

For something even more upscale, try the Sunday Brunch at the Kilimanjaro Hotel. The restaurant on the ground floor offers a wide variety of Western dishes but also includes several local favourites taken up a notch. It's not cheap, about 30,000 Tzs per person, but if your interested in trying Tanzanian cuisine without risking gastrointestinal complications, if your from the USA(heartburn country), it's your best bet.

Indian

City Center

• The Retreat ($$), between Kisutu and Jamhuri Streets, is open from Tuesday to Sunday and serves excellent southern Indian and is a popular place with locals and ex-pats. Try a Thali for 6,000Tsh.
• K Tea Shop ($) just off of Libya Street, has great kebabs other Indian snacks. Istana serves an excellent buffet; cuisines change per day of the week. ,
• Alcove on Samora avenue is the place for you if you like Indian and Chinese food and especially if you're vegetarian.
• Red Onion ($$) across Maktaba Street from the YMCA. Has a wide selection of Indian dishes and a nice rooftop dining area. Very cold beers.

Peninsula and around

• Anghiti ($$$) (near the US Embassy) on New Bagamoyo road just after the Kawawa intersection is excellent.
• Copper Chimney +255 22 270 1074 (on New Bagamoyo Rd) is also very good.

Chinese, Japanese & South-East Asian

City Center

• The New Africa Hotel has a popular Thai restaurant on the roof. Some nights it serves all-you-can-eat buffet.
• Oriental ($$$$) at The Kilimanjaro Hotel serves a variety of Japanese, Thai and Malaysian dishes.

Peninsula

• Osaka ($$$$) off of Toure, serves Korean and Japanese, including very good sushi, look for the sign on the left when heading towards Sea Cliff.
• Goong ($$$) serves authentic Korean food and are on the dirt road just before the Slipway.
• Azuma ($$$) at the Slipway. Sushi.
• SweetEazy ($$$) at the Oyster Bay Complex on Toure Drive. Roof top as well as inside dining area. Live music some nights. Good bar.

Italian

City Center

• Oliveti ($$$$) at the Movenpick serves upscale Italian food with a bit of a twist.

Peninsula and surrounding

• Saverio's has Italian-style pizza and pasta dishes.
• Trattoria Jan ($$$) on Kimwere has excellent food, but is a little hard to get to if you don't have a car.
• Mediterraneo Hotel & Restaurant If you like to have a relaxing dinner while viewing the Indian Ocean, this is the is the perfect place, you can find here a wide choice of Italian/Mediterranean dishes, homemade pasta and delicious seafood dishes.
• Shooter's Steak & burgers. off Old Bagamoyo Road.
• Noah's Ark Italian restaurant. off Old Bagamoyo Road.

Ethiopian

• Addis in Dar ($$$) (on Ursino Street, in the Regency Estates neighborhood) A little-known and out of way restaurant is superb. This Ethiopian restaurant offers excellent food costing about Tzs 7,000 per dish. They serve chicken, beef, lamb and vegetarian dishes (mostly stews, but some come without sauce) on a bed of injera, a moist and springy Ethiopian flatbread. The decor is fantastic and the atmosphere is excellent as well, with a rooftop dining area. Try the Ethiopian honey wine before your meal and the beautifully-presented coffee after.

Middle-Eastern

• Al-Basha ($$) is the best middle-eastern food in Dar. They have two locations. City center on the corner of Morogoro and India Street and at the Mayfair Plaza in Mikocheni near the US Embassy.

Café and Bistros

• Épi d'Or ($$) is owned and run by a French woman who makes excellent sandwiches, bread, croissants and many other dishes as well as excellent coffee. They have two locations, one in the city center on Samora avenue, close to the Zanzibar ferry, and the other at Sea Cliff village on the Peninsula.

Food Courts

SeaCliff Village and Slipway (peninsula), Harbor View Suites Mall (Samora Ave), and the Steer's Complex (Ohio Street) have multiple fast-food type restaurants in one place, as well as shopping. Limited menus of pizza, burgers, indian, sandwiches, ice cream, etc.

Upscale

For upscale meals, visit the Movenpick (formerly the Royal Palm Hotel), The Holiday Inn, Kilimanjaro Kempenski Hotel in the city center.

All of these hotels offer excellent fixed-price breakfast buffets, which often include sparkling wine, and can be a good value if you are hungry or want to escape for a while.

• Zens Bar & Restaurant open every day from 6.30am to 11pm. Located in Mikocheni “B” at Exclusive Resort Opposite St. Laureate Int. School, Kwa Warioba, Msikiti street. +255 22 278 0440 EXT.126

• Spurs SeaCliff Village. ($$$) Good burgers, steaks, Mexican food, salad bar, milk shakes, ice cream desserts. Play area for children.

Budget Eats

• Chef's Pride Near the budget hotels in the Indian quarter. It caters mostly to tourists, but is very reasonably priced.
• Milap is a vegetarian Indian Restaurant with very cheap prices.
• Subway near the YWCA that is air-conditioned, and a nice treat if you're hankering for some food of a western nature.
• YWCA near the Cathedral, has a delicious and cheap canteen where you can order a traditional Tanzanian meal for under Tzs 2,000.
• Steers Complex on Ohio street has several restaurants in one area. Burgers, pizzas and Chinese stir fry.

But the best place to eat, both in terms of price and atmosphere, is on the street. Places to try include the corner of Morogoro road and Jamhuri street, or the large open space in front of the Dar Express bus company ticket office. Chips mayai (chips in an omelet) should be about 700 or 800 shillings.

You should only drink bottled water. A 1.5 liter bottle will cost you only 450 shillings, but you can also drink tap water if you've purified it with iodine tablets or boiled it.

Kilimanjaro, Serengeti and Safari (a stronger beer, 5.5% alcohol) are local beers and popular with Tanzanian's and foreigners.

Import beer available in Dar include Tusker, Ndovu, Stella Artois, Castel Lager and Heineken.

Konyagi is a popular local gin, and its variant Konyagi Ice is comparable to hard lemonade and other sweet drinks.

Krest, bottled locally by Coca Cola, offer Club Soda, Tonic Water and Bitter Lemon drinks. Stoney Tangawizi (ginger ale) is one of the more popular soda drinks. Sodas come in glass bottles and you'll usually be asked to return the bottle or pay extra to take it, but they don't usually like that.

All of the large hotels have full bars with air conditioning. Many offer 2-for-1 happy hour specials in the late afternoon/early evening.

City Center

• Florida Inn near the UN building by the ferry port, offers South African Castle (pronounced "Castel") on tap, as well as nice air conditioning and a pool table.

• New Protein Bar, down the street from Chef's Pride. Good food and cheap. Sidewalk seating. The only bar in the Indian section of Dar near the budget hotels.

Peninsula & Around

• Zens Bar & Restaurant Zens Bar has a wide selection of drinks in a tranquil atmosphere. Find us in Mikocheni “B”at Exclusive Resort Opposite St. Laureate Int. School, Kwa Warioba, Msikiti street. CALL US AT: +255 2202780440 Ext.126

• Q Bar, tel +255 22 211 2667, +255 754 282 474, Haille Selassie Road, Oysterbay area. A large bar and restaurant which can get crowded and noisy when major football games are shown on giant screens or on Friday night when there is live music. Daily drink specials.

• O'Willies Irish Whiskey Tavern tel +255 22 260 1273 at the Peninsula Hotel, near the Slipway. Excellent selection of import beers, especially Guinness. Outside deck overlooking the bay. Inside, karaoke & trivia some nights.