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With over 10 million people, a figure that doubles if you include neighboring cities and suburbs, Seoul is by far the largest city in South Korea and the unquestioned economic, political and cultural hub of the country. By some measures, it is the second largest urban agglomeration on the planet, after Greater Tokyo.

Seoul suffers from a partly unwarranted reputation for pollution and traffic jams. These days, strict emissions laws have brought the pollution under control and, while traffic jams do still snarl up Seoul's streets at rush hour, the extensive subway network means that the traveler can easily shortcut through it almost all of the time. With beautiful palaces, great food and a hopping nightlife, Seoul is a frenetic way to experience the Asia of old and new.

The wooden top portion of the picturesque gate to the right burned down due to arson on February 10, 2008 after standing for almost 700 years.


Photos from Seoul, South Korea
Line up to Dunkin Donuts
Roof with protective figurines, Changdeokgung
Vendors selling Korean fast food in Gangnam.
Incheon Airport
Clothing and jewelry vendors in Sinchon.
Namdaemun Gate at night

Amusement Parks

  • Lotte World, [10]. (Metro Line 2, Jamsil stn) One of the world's largest indoor amusement parks that is located in Seoul by the Jamsil Station. It has a folk museum where one can have an insight into ancient Korean life. Lots of rides, and reopened in the summer of 2007 after a massive reconstruction.
  • Everland [11]. The Korean version of Disneyland. It is south of Seoul and transportation by bus is the easiest way to get there. Non-stop buses to Everland leave from various parts of Seoul daily. Has a miniature zoo where one can see a lion-tiger hybrid.
  • Seoul Land [12]. Theme park located in Seoul. This park was opened just before the Olympics in 1988. It is easy to get to by subway and is open year round.
  • Children's Grand Park, in Neung-dong, Gwangjin-gu [13]. The park was constructed after the decision of the City Planning Facility in 1971 and was opened on May 5, 1973. The park has a zoo, amusement facilities and restaurants. To get there, simply take the subway to Children's Grand Park on line 7. Avoid the weekends as it can get very crowded.

Gambling

  • Horse Racing, Seoul Racetrack in Kwacheon. Races are normally only held during weekends, night racing also takes place during August. During the week, visitors can take guided tours of the grounds.

Spas, Saunas, and Massage Rooms

Suanas generally take the form of public baths in Korea, and are a popular form of relaxation. Services such as hair cuts and shoe cleaning are generally available. Some suanas also include sleeping areas for overnight stay.


Photos from Seoul, South Korea
Namdaemun Gate at night
Roof with protective figurines, Changdeokgung
Vendors selling Korean fast food in Gangnam.
Everland
Children's Grand Park
Incheon Airport

Palaces

As the ancient seat of Korea's royalty, there are no fewer than 5 major palaces in Seoul, and some are definitely worth a visit.

  • Gyeongbok-gung(경복궁,景福宮), Yulgukno (subway Gyeongbokgung). Seoul's grandest Joseon Dynasty-era palace and the seat of power for centuries before it was razed in 1592 by a Japanese invasion (and they did a repeat after 1910). This was the first palace used by the Joseon Dynasty. Large parts have now been restored and the vast grounds also house the Joseon Palace Museum and the Korean Folk Museum. ₩3000, 9AM-5PM daily except Tuesday (when the palace is used for shooting TV dramas).
  • Changdeok-gung(창덕궁,昌德宮), 99 Yulgong-ro, Jongno-gu (Metro Line 3, Anguk station 5 minute walk or Line 1, 3, 5 Jongno-3ga Station). Second only to Gyeongbok-gung (the original Gyeongbok-gung was built before Changdeok-gung but wasn't used for as long a time) in historical importance, this was first built in 1405 and was the seat of power between 1618 and 1896. The buildings have all been recently restored and freshly repainted, creating a dazzling but still elegant effect that got the palace listed as an UNESCO World Heritage Site. Buildings of particular note include the blue-roofed Seonjeongjeon, which was the King's office, and the Daejojeon ("Great Making Hall"), his bedchamber, but perhaps most famous of all is the Huwon ("Secret Garden") in the back. Access to the complex is by guided tour only (₩3000) except on Thursdays when only self-guided tours are available. Korean-language tours run every half hour (Japanese-language tours also available) but English tours are only offered at 11:30AM, 1:30PM and 3:30PM (and you can not enter without a guide!) and last around 90 minutes with a walking distance of about 2.5km, including some steps and inclines for the Huwon portion (the grounds are wheelchair-accessible for most parts but may have to enter certain areas in a reverse direction from the group). Closed Mondays. Mainline bus (blue): 109, 151, 162, 171, 172, 272. Branch line (green): no. 7025.
  • Deoksu-gung(덕수궁,德壽宮), (subway City Hall). Located in downtown Seoul across the street from City Hall, Deoksu Palace vividly contrasts to the other nearby palaces like Changdeok Palace. Built during the mid-fifteenth century, the architecture of the buildings inside are heavily influenced with Western designs. Hence, you will see a fusion of both Korean and Western architecture. Closed on Mondays. Admission: Adults (19 to 64 years old): 1,000 won (groups: 800 won), Children (7 to 18 years old) and soldiers: 500 won (groups: 400 won), Children 6 and under, seniors 65 and over: Free.
  • Changgyeong-gung(창경궁,昌慶宮), (Subway line 4, Hyehwa Station 10 minute walk or 20-minute walk from Changdeok-gung). Originally built in 1104 as a summer palace for the Kings of the Koryo Dynasty, it became one of the main palaces during the Joseon Dynasty. The palace was used as a temporary home for the King during the time Gyeongbuk Palace was being built. Unlike other palaces that has a North-South orientation, Changgyeong Palace faces East-West. Also, what is famous about this palace is the fact it connects to Jongmyo Shrine, a holy place for the Joseon Dynasty, where sacrificial rites are practiced for previous kings and queens. Closed Tuesdays. Admission: Adults (19-64): ₩1,000 (groups: 800), Children (7-18): ₩500 (groups: 400), Children 6 and under, seniors 65+: Free.
  • Geyonghui-gung(경희궁,慶熙宮), (Subway line 5, Seodaemun Station, exit 4). Originally built in the 17th century, it was burnt down twice in the 19th century. It was largely destroyed by the Japanese during the colonial rule to build a school for Japanese children. It was finally restored in 1985 and opened to the public. Free admission.

Parks

  • 4.19 Memorial Cemetery. 224 people were killed during the April 19 Movement, and were buried in this cemetery. It became a national cemetery in 1995. This place has a museum, several statues, and a mausoleum. It is a popular place, for it is a park where you can come and take a rest.
  • Boramae Park. Formerly the site of the Korean Air Force Academy, which in 1986 turned into a park - Boramae, or hawk in English, symbolizes the Air Force. The size of the park is about 360,000 square meters and its sports facilities, a small zoo, a pond, and walking paths are well designed. The huge pond, which is 9,000 square meters, is surrounded by willow trees and benches, and people love to come. The pond is full of cool shades during the summer, and is spectacular when snow falls in the winter.
  • Namsan Park. Located in the center of Seoul and considered a symbol of Seoul. Namsan Park is an ecology-island surrounded by urban districts. In spite of being an urban ecology-island, wild animals live in the park. Located in the middle of Seoul, the mountain filled with pine trees can be seen from almost every corner of the big city and the residents of the areas surrounding the hills enjoy the fresh mountain air.
  • Olympic Park. Built for the 1986 Asian Games and the 1988 Seoul Olympics. A lake, a large field covered with the grass, and a square with sculptures are very popular among visitors. It is frequently visited by brides and grooms to take their wedding pictures. There are a couple of courses that are ideal for jogging or walking. In addition, the outdoor stage and the six stadiums are often used for concerts and other special events.
  • Tapgol ("Pagoda") Park. A small park frequented by the elderly and the footsore traveller, just to the east of Jongmyo Shrine. Contains the 500+-old namesake pagoda under protective glass, and a nice large gazebo to get out of the sun. This is where the Korean constituation was first read aloud by the public during the 20th century. Acts as a navigation landmark when moving between Myeong-dong, Jong-no and Insa-dong neighborhoods.
  • Yangjae Citizen's Forest. You will find a forest on your right if you drive through Gangnam Street. It's a park with streams and a clear view of the sky. There are over 106,600 trees planted in it, and it's a very popular picnic spot for young students.
  • Yeouido Park. More than 30,000 visit it on the weekdays and over 60,000 people visit it on weekends, respectively. The size of the park being 230,000 square meters, this giant concrete field was built for military aviation purposes in emergencies. There is a traditional Korean forest, and in many other places you can enjoy concerts, cycling, or taking walks. Hundreds of trees and flowers offer you shade and an opportunity to relax. It is recommended to visit the three ponds. There are also basketball courts, so feel free to stop by and play. For a nominal fee, one can also rent bicycles or rollerblades for use at the park.
  • Yongsan Park. Reminds you of famous parks in other countries that you might have seen in some movies. Large grass fields and thick forests will make you feel much relieved from bustling city life ; you will see many kinds of birds and trees. The park once used as U.S military base camps. In 1992, Seoul City bought the land and built the park.
  • Hangang Citizen's Park, located along the Han River at 12 districts - Gwangnaru, Jamsil, Ttukseom, Jamwon, Banpo, Ichon, Yeouido, Yanghwa, Mangwon, Seonyudo, Nanji, and Gangseojigu. You can see many people strolling or jogging along the trail paths, as well as in-line skaters, bicyclists, and soccer fields or basketball courts. Yeouido, Jamsil, and Ttukseom districts are especially popular because of the cruise services on the Han River.

Temples and shrines

  • Jongmyo Shrine Certainly the most famous shrine devoted to the royal family members of Korean dynasties. The grounds are a bit more walker-friendly than some of the palaces--and admission cheaper--and also have some interactive equipment available to learn about the rituals and ceremonies used to treat deceased royal family members. ₩1000. Closed Tuesdays.
  • Mount Inwang (인왕산 Inwangsan), near subway Dongnimmun. This 336-meter hill is home not only to the eponymous Inwang Temple (Inwangsa), but also Seoul's most famous shamanist shrine Guksadang (국사당). To get there, take Exit 2 and start climbing uphill following the "Inwang Temple" signs, through the huge construction site (as of 2006) and up through the temple gate. You'll see a map board and several paths, take the left staircase upward, past the bronze bell of Bongwonsa and you'll reach Guksadang. Behind it are several creeks with shamanist offerings and the bizarre rock formation known as the Zen Rocks; there are plenty of trails if you want to poke around, and the Seoul fortress wall can be seen running near the top of the hill. Be careful not to photograph or disturb any rituals you see being performed.

Others

  • Namdaemun(남대문,南大門) (Metro Line 1, City Hall stn). More formally known as Sungryemun(숭례문,崇禮門), the Great South Gate is a symbol of Seoul and has been designated as National Treasure Number 1. Particularly beautiful when floodlit at night, and best combined with a visit to the adjacent Namdaemun Market. Unfortunately, a fire in February 2008 destroyed much of the structure, and rebuilding is expected to take up to 3 years.
  • Dongdaemun(동대문,東大門), (Metro Line 1, Dongdaemun stn). More formally known as Heunginjimun(흥인지문,興仁之門), the old eastern gate of the city still stands. Though not as impressive architecturally as Namdaemun, the Dongdaemun market is infinitely more interesting than the its couterpart. Since Namdaemun was burnt down in February 2008, it is one of 3 original city gates still standing along with Bukdaemun(북대문,北大門), the Great North Gate more formally known as Sukjeongmun(숙정문,肅靖門) and a smaller minor gate known as Changuimun(창의문,彰義門).
  • Seodaemun Prison, 101 Hyeonjeo-dong, Seodaemun-gu (Metro Line 3, Dongnimmun stn, exit 5). Tue-Sun 9:30 AM-6 PM (5 PM in Nov-Feb). Originally built in 1908, the prison became infamous during the Japanese occupation, when it was used to torture, starve and execute Korean political prisoners. Actual prison cells, wax figures and videos are used to demonstrate the shocking brutality; most signage is only in Korean, but volunteer guides can describe the sights in English. Obviously due to the content, this site is not suitable for young children or those of a sensitive nature. ₩1500.
  • COEX. (Metro Line 2, Samseong stn) This very large mall is located in Samsung-dong, Gangnam-gu. This state-of-the-art complex was designed for international conferences, and holds 150 specialized exhibitions and 15,000 conventions/events a year. The center also plays a role in promoting international trade by connecting international buyers with local businesses. A variety of stores and attractions can be found in the COEX including: the COEX Aquarium (call-ahead reservations required) [8]; a large Western-style "luxury" cinema; the Kimchi museum [9]; a Sony Playstation Store; an Xbox Store; a traditional video game arcade; a large bookstore with many Korea publications and imported Japanese books, manga and magazines; a chain electronics store to provide the traveller-in-need with batteries, camcorder tape and discs; and a Studio Ghibli store with lots of character goods (for anime fans). There are also shopping options in the COEX, including national brands mVIO, WhoAU California and Caspi Conus. As far as food options, there is a large food court serving several types of contemporary and traditional food cafeteria-style, and western chains such as TGI Friday's, as well as restaurants, hofs and cafes located all throughout the interior and exterior of the COEX. The COEX is also directly connected to the COEX Intercontinental Hotel. In 2003, a popular entertainment sports bar called GimmeFive opened in the back of the mall, featuring live kickboxing, fashion shows, and a drag queen cabaret show to close the evening; it occupied the space formerly occupied by but then vacated by the Dave & Busters chain. Yearly conventions at the COEX include online gaming conventions (such as the popular Korean-originated MMORPG Lineage), anime conventions, and auto shows. It is possible to spend the entire day in this covered mall without setting foot outside, which can be a blessing if very bad weather hits outside.
  • Seoul Tower (Namsan Tower) (Metro Line 2 or 3, Chungmuro stn) Can be reached on foot, by taxi or, on the south side, by cable car. Once the tallest tower in Asia, it has the best panoramic view in all of Seoul. Centrally located, it can be seen from nearly anywhere in Seoul and is a helpful reference for travellers on foot. The cable car is a 10 minute uphill walk from Myeongdong stn, from exit 2 or 3.
  • The National Museum of Korea (Metro Line 4, Ichon stn) Houses the best of the best collection of artifacts and relics from across Korea throughout different periods and dynasty. Closed every Monday.
  • Cheonggye Stream, Located near Cheonggye Plaza near Insa-dong. This stream has recently been converted into a tourist attraction from its previous state as a stagnant mosquito breeding wetland.
  • Korean Folk Village(한국 민속촌,韓國民俗村). A nice outdoor museum located in the Yongin suburb with displays that depict the lives of the different social classes and regions of Korea during the Joseon Dynasty. Also has some live performances of traditional Korean skills.
  • Unhyeongung (운현궁,雲峴宮). A museum located in Jongno-gu, formerly the residence of a Joseon Dynasty prince and where the wedding of the second last king of the Joseon Dynasty was held, it has several mannequins depicting the dressing style of the yangban or noble class during the Joseon Dynasty.

Photos from Seoul, South Korea
Detail of the king's bedchamber, Changdeokgung
Clothing and jewelry vendors in Sinchon.
Children's Grand Park
Namdaemun Gate at night
Incheon Airport
Everland

By plane

Incheon Airport

Nearly all international flights to Seoul land in South Korea's 3rd-largest city at the futuristic Incheon International Airport (인천국제공항) (IATA: ICN) [2] west of the city. The airport is well signposted and caters to all your traveler needs, and even includes a sauna, an optician, and a small mall. There are two tourist information offices and many global ATMs. Currency exchanges are available, and are fairly priced.

Many limousine buses (₩9000 or so and up) travel directly to major areas and quite near big hotels in Seoul, while public buses (around ₩8000~₩9000) will take you to major transit hubs. If you're visiting for the first time it's recommended to take the limousine bus. For either bus type, consult the big maps or staff to figure out which route best suits your needs; you can then find the shuttles outside 1st floor arrivals (if possible get this information from your hotel before arriving). Or simply, walk out and ask the many ticket sellers (they are wearing vests) which bus goes to your hotel because if it's a popular one or in a popular area, they'll surely know which you'll need. It's best to buy tickets at any of the the ticket gates near the bus arrival area but you can also pay the fare using won or a T-Money card if you have one. The limousine bus drivers are extremely friendly but don't count on them knowing too much English. There are maps inside the buses letting passengers know which stops are upcoming and these are also announced in Korean and English. Pressing any of the red buttons inside signals to the driver you want off at the next stop.

The A'REX [3] train link to Incheon Int'l Airport is available and recently, transport to Gimpo Airport (which largely services domestic routes) is now open, with express and commuter services (both ₩3100) running every 12 minutes for a trip time of 28-35 minutes, making this both faster and cheaper than the bus. The rest of the link to Seoul is scheduled to be ready in 2010, but for now, you can continue from Gimpo by regular subway — although this is quite slow. But if your final destination is in or near the downtown areas--where most non-Korean tourists stay--the AREX doesn't extend that far into the city and the hassle of the numerous transfers can be avoided by simply taking any of the limousine buses as the price is only about 50% less if you use the Metro entirely.

Beware of taxi drivers trying to pick you up from inside the terminal and even the bus stop.

If you have a late flight and plan on getting into Seoul via bus, make sure you get out to the curb as soon as you can. The last buses run shortly after the last flights land. If you miss your bus, you'll be stuck paying for a taxi, as the trains will be done running too.

A taxi direct to Seoul will run around ₩40000/60000 regular/deluxe. As both buses and taxis are subject to traffic, allow extra time for rush hour delays; one possible shortcut is to take the subway to Gimpo and transfer to the train there (see below).

If you have time to kill at the airport but don't have the time or energy to face Seoul's traffic, see Yeongjong Island or Incheon for some layover suggestions. If you're connecting through ICN to another destination on Korean/Asiana and have over 6 hours to spare, you may be entitled to a free transit tour or hotel — ask at the transit desk.

The airport is open 24 hours. However, most shops are closed around 9PM-7AM. Free Internet access is available in the transit zone.

Gimpo Airport

The more centrally located but older Gimpo Airport [4] (김포국제공항, GMP) caters only to the shuttle services to Tokyo-Haneda and Shanghai-Hongqiao, as well as domestic flights within South Korea. Gimpo Airport is easily reached on subway Line 5 (₩1400 and 50 minutes to downtown), and you can transfer to/from Incheon Airport with the A'REX rail link. A taxi to central Seoul will run around ₩30,000.

By train

Seoul is the northern terminus of the KTX high-speed line to Daejeon, Daegu and Busan. There are two KTX stations within city limits: Seoul Station (서울역), on lines 1 & 4, and just a few stops south, Yongsan Station (용산역), on line 1 & 4(Shin-Yongsan station).

Nearly all ordinary (non-KTX) services also use one or both of the above terminals, but services east to Chuncheon and southeast to Gyeongju via Danyang use Cheongnyangni Station (청량리역), to the east of the city on line 1.

By bus

Every weekend approximately 2 million Seoulites leave the city, which goes a long way to explaining why the city has no less than five major intercity bus terminals.

  • Central City Terminal, also known as Honam Terminal, (Metro Lines 3 or 7, Express Bus Terminal stn). Directly adjacent to the Express terminal, serves buses to North and South Jeolla.
  • Dong Seoul Bus Terminal (동서울버스터미널), Gangbyeon stn (Line 2). Buses to points east of Seoul (Gangwon).
  • Express Bus Terminal (서울고속버스터미널), (Metro Lines 3 or 7, Express Bus Terminal stn). Also known as Gangnam Terminal and Gyeongbu-Yeongdong Terminal, this is the largest of them all and serves pretty much the entire country, but most services head east (incl. Busan, Daegu, Daejeon). Lines to Jeolla, however, use the Central City/Honam Terminal right next door. For the most part there's no need to buy a ticket days in advance except for maybe during holidays. There's even a ticket window labeled "Tickets for Foreigners" where the attendant can speak English. Fare from Seoul-Busan is about ₩20,000 and buses come continuously throughout the day. Small restaurants and snacks are all throughout the station. Journeys longer than 2 hrs. typically will have a short stop at a rest area. Most buses are very comfortable and extremely safe.
  • Nambu Bus Terminal, Nambu Bus Terminal stn (Line 3). Serves places southwest of Seoul (South Chungcheong).
  • Sinchon Bus Terminal, Sinchon stn (Line 2). Buses to Ganghwa Island. Note: That's Sinchon station, not Sincheon, which is also on Line 2 but on the wrong side of the city!

By boat

There are ferry services to various points in China from the neighboring port city of Incheon. Currently no services run from Japan directly to Seoul; many Koreans take the coach or KTX train to Busan, where several ferry and hydrofoil options are available.

By car

No matter where in Korea you start your journey, there will be at least one tolled expressways (Gosok Doro) and national highways (Gook Do) that lead to Seoul; the most important one is the Gyeongbu Expressway, linking Seoul with Busan.


Photos from Seoul, South Korea
Namdaemun Market at night
Clothing and jewelry vendors in Sinchon.
Roof with protective figurines, Changdeokgung
Namdaemun Gate at night
Vendors selling Korean fast food in Gangnam.
Everland

Traffic jams are all too common in Seoul, so be careful on the streets and head underground when possible. Street and subway signage is usually written in English as well as Korean.

By subway

In Seoul, you can visit most places by using subways. There are currently 8 lines (10 if you count the Bundang Line and Incheon Line), with a 9th under construction. The lines are numbered and distinguished by different colors. All signs in the subway system are in Korean (both hangeul and if applicable, hanja) and English. The signs leading to the platform for a particular direction of travel on a given subway line typically list the names of a number of stations in that direction. Stations each have a 3 digit number, however Koreans don't really make use of these numbers and they're not on most subway maps, so don't rely on them.

Subway fares are based on the distance traveled, but the shortest ride costs ₩1000 when using a magnetic ticket. Small magnetic stripe tickets are available for single trip or multiple trips. Tickets can be purchased from ticket counters or vending machines. All the vending machines accept coins, but only a few accept bills (a sign will be posted if it can accept the new (2006/2007) won notes). Be sure to have enough coins or ₩1000 notes as if your fare isn't large enough, trying to purchase tickets with say a ₩10000 may be rejected by the machine. If there's no manned ticket office, there's usually a bill exchanger lurking nearby, although they don't always accept the new (2006/2007) won notes (a sign will be posted indicating such). Hang onto your ticket until the end of your trip, as you'll need it to get out. Also, try to buy round-trip tickets whenever possible (no discount but it'll save time from having to wait in line, especially during rush hour). Seoul's automated ticket machines aren't as easy-to-use as those in Busan, for example, and for most first-time visitors, simply purchasing from the attendant will likely prove easier. The ticket machines often only have buttons for the fare (eg. ₩1000, ₩1100 etc.)- there is a map of the metro printed above each ticket machine, with the cost of the journey marked next to each station (costs depend on which station you are at). So you first find the station you want to go to, read off the corresponding fare, and then buy a ticket to that cost.

If planning on using the Metro extensively or staying for more than a few weeks, consider purchasing a T-money stored value contactless smart card. You can buy this card at most subway stations and many newspaper kiosks near subway entrances, as well as convenience stores. The card itself costs ₩2500 and cash can be charged onto the card as often as you like. When entering and leaving a subway turnstile, place the card on the reader (leaving it inside your purse or wallet is fine) and it will deduct the appropriate fare from the card. Using this card will allow you to save ₩100 on all transfers (there are common with Seoul's extensive subway system) and you can get all but ₩500 back if you have unused credit. Typically for most travelers staying less than 2 weeks in Seoul, purchasing this card may not be cheaper but other factors should be considered: it can also be used for taxi fares, buses, storage lockers, etc. and saves the hassle from figuring out how much you need to pay or waiting in line to buy a single-use ticket. The subway is not operated 24 hours, so you may be stranded late at night.

Although there is only one subway network, lines 1-4 and 5-8 are run by two different companies, so information is available on two websites, the Seoul Metropolitan Subway Corporation and the Seoul Metropolitan Rapid Transit Corp.

  • Seoul Metropolitan Subway Corporation [5]
  • Seoul Metropolitan Rapid Transit Corp [6]

By bus

Seoul also has an extensive bus service. There are four different kinds of buses: yellow, green, blue, and red. Yellow buses have a short circuit usually around tourist areas. Green buses travel around neighborhoods and connect with the subway. Blue buses go across town, while red buses are intercity buses. Buses will only stop at designated bus stops and will not wait for indecisive travelers.

Adult fare is as follows:

Cash - ₩1000

T-Money Card - ₩900

Note that by using a T-Money card, you can transfer between the bus and the subway for free up to 30 minutes after your last scan.

The city of Seoul provides an interactive bus map at the following site: Seoul Public Transportation System Guide [7].

By taxi

There are three kinds of taxis in Seoul: regular taxi, deluxe taxi and call taxi. Deluxe taxis are colored black with a yellow sign, and are more expensive than regular taxis but provide better and more comfortable service. Regular taxis are silver. For the most part, regular taxi cabs have leather interiors and the drivers are nice--so for many, "regular" in Seoul might be "delux" in their hometown! It's easy to hail a taxi any time of the day or night along any relatively major Seoul street.

You can call a deluxe taxi wherever you are by calling 3431-5100. Sometimes you can find a visitor's guide taxi which is a kind of deluxe taxi, the drivers of which know English and Japanese and can guide you around Seoul city.

The basic fare for regular taxis is ₩1900 (₩2280 at night), with additional fare of ₩100 applied according to time and distance. In deluxe taxis, the basic fare is ₩4000 and the additional fare increases in increments of ₩200.

If there is more than one passenger, and you are traveling only a short distance (e.g., 1-2 Metro stops) it is usually cheaper to catch a taxi than to take a bus or subway.

Another kind of taxi is the AAFES taxi, although this type is mainly used by US military personnel on post. These taxis generally speak English better than the local taxis and take US$. The basic fare is $2.30 with additional fare of $0.30 according to time and distance. You can call for an AAFES taxi by calling 0505-736-5113.

In general, English speaking ability is poor among taxi drivers and many would not know more than the names of the most popular tourist attractions, so it would be wise to have your destination written in Korean to show to the taxi driver. It is also wise to get your hotel's business card in case you get lost. Some may even reject looking at a map so whenever possible, have the location written in Korean.


Photos from Seoul, South Korea
Line up to Dunkin Donuts
Everland
Incheon Airport
Children's Grand Park
Detail of the king's bedchamber, Changdeokgung
Namdaemun Gate at night

Markets

  • Namdaemun [22]. The largest traditional street market in Korea. This market is located in the center of Seoul and is a famous shopping place for tourists. Clothing for children and accessories are the most-commonly sold goods in this market, but there's lots of food as well and many outdoor eating options, especially in the evening.
  • Dongdaemun [23]. This market is of equal historical significance to Namdaemun market. While Namdaemun is an old-fashioned market, Dongdaemun market has large department store-like buildings such as Doota, Migliore, and APM that have trendy shops and stalls grouped together so customers can shop efficiently and save time. Many younger people and tourists come here to shop. One of the buildings here, Dongdaemun General Market, sells Chimachogori, which is a Korean traditional dress, or bedclothes. Some of the shops like Nuzzon are open all night.
  • Insa-dong. Insadong is known for its art galleries and shops, and is possibly the most touristy place in South Korea. It is a great place to buy cultural souvenirs. There are also a few stores that offer interesting vintage toys and various kitsch. Insadong also contains many traditional tea and coffee shops. It is one of the few places that vegetarian restaurants can be found.
  • Ewha Women's University. At the front gate of Ewha Women's University, visitors can find a dense market geared towards young women. You can find stores that sell clothes, shoes, hats, handbags, and so on. There are also clothes for men. Recently franchise stores have started to move into the area.
  • Yongsan Electronics Market. (Metro Line 2, Samseong stn) Yongsan is one option in Seoul if you are looking for electronics goods. Made up of over 20 buildings housing 5000 stores, you can find appliances, stereos, computers and peripherals, office equipment, telephones, lighting equipment, electronic games and software, and videos and CDs. A lot of the products are bought in Japan and resold in Korea by dealers. The market has a reputation for fleecing foreigners, particularly due to its proximity to the Yongsan U.S. Army Base. If you go, it's best to bring a Korean guide so you can ensure you're getting a good deal.
  • Techno Mart. There are two Techno Marts in Seoul: the original at Gangbyeon station, and the new store at Sindorim station. Both complexes house over 2,000 stores across eight floors that sell a variety of high-tech products. From electrical appliances to computers, you will find everything you need. The first floor has cosmetics, accessories, and stationeries. The second and third floors comprise Korean-made electrical goods, while the fourth and fifth floors sell foreign-made electrical appliances. The sixth floor sells cell phones and their accessories. Computers are sold on the seventh, and on the eighth music and DVD stores. Aside from all the high-tech gadgetry, there are over a dozen restaurants on the 9th floor, and a cineplex and arcade on the 10th.

Fashion

Fashion shopping in Seoul isn't a mere industry, it's an art form.

Myeongdong is probably the largest and best-known area; it is definitely the most tourist-friendly fashion area. In the spring and summer, fashion models/sidewalk promoters can be seen strolling the streets of Myeongdong promoting various cosmetics, stores or other fashion-related products. Many regular people also tend to catwalk their newest outfit on these streets. Rows of stores are available to look for that perfect accessory, and most of Korea's major brands can be found here: mVIO, Caspi Conus, WhoAU California, AHM, So.Basic, Noxon, Basic House, UGIZ, 1492, nipper, hang ten, A6, Bean Pole, Jambangee, Giordano as well as a few international brands such as Landrover, Adidas, Gap, Banana Republic, Koolhaas, Fubu, Anna Sui, etc.

  • Migliore [24]. One of the biggest fashion buildings in Seoul. It has 17 floors above ground and 7 basement floors. Information boards in Migliore are written in Korean as well as English, Japanese and Chinese for foreign tourists. US credit cards are often accepted, but ask before haggling if you aren't sure. The outside stage features a "talent show" of local dance groups (mostly high school or college student groups) most nights until about 9 PM; typically they are wearing many of the local fashions, and some of the dancers can be located in the various department stores working as employees.
  • UTOO (U2) Zone. Another Myeongdong landmark. This department store is oriented towards an older and more upscale clientele. US credit cards almost always accepted.
  • Lotte Young Plaza [25]. A relatively new addition to the scene, located just across the street from Avatar department store. This department store is oriented towards a younger, upscale clientele, and in addition to the usual Korean brands and international brands, the top floor of the space features an assortment of quality eating establishments to replenish your shopping energy. The wine bar is recommended. Sometimes art installations can be found on the top floor. US credit cards accepted.

Apgujeong (압구정), widely known as "The Beverly Hills of Seoul" is the land of luxury, brand name goods. International brands like Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Prada sit alongside Korean designer brands.

  • Galleria [26] A very popular upscale department store.

Near the Cheongdam Intersection lies the heart of the Korean shoe scene. Cutting edge shoe shops include Sue Comma Bonnie, Hyaang, Heels and Namuhana.

Trends often begin in University areas like Hongdae. Hongik University boasts Korea's most famous art school, thus fashion in this area is often influenced by the students' artistic sensibilities. The shops in this area feature funky, punky, boho, and vintage style. Ewha Women's University also has a big shopping area in front of it’s main gate, as do many of the Women's colleges. Many trends also originate here. There are even seamstresses who can help you make your own designs come to life.

Duty free

Duty free shops: You can use United States$, Japanese ¥or Korean W. There are clerks who can speak Japanese in nearly every shop. Also the following credit cards are accepted: American Express (AMEX), JCB (Japanese credit card), Mastercard, or Visa.

There are duty-free shops in both the Incheon airport and the major department stores: Lotte, Shilla Hotel. There are other duty-free shops at Walkerhill Hotel, SKM DFS in COEX Mall.


Photos from Seoul, South Korea
Everland
Namdaemun Market at night
Namdaemun Gate at night
Roof with protective figurines, Changdeokgung
Line up to Dunkin Donuts
Children's Grand Park
This guide uses the following price ranges for a typical meal for one, including soft drink:
Budget under 10,000 won
Mid-range 10,000 to 25,000 won
Splurge over 25,000 won

Much of Korean social life revolves around food and the city is packed with restaurants, so it would take a determined man to starve to death in Seoul. This fate may still befall you if you insist on English menus and meals consisting only of easily identifiable, familiar ingredients, so see South Korea#Eat for a quick Korean menu reader. An alternative is to just point and eat, your hosts generally will accommodate. If you look in the right places, a good meal (lunch or dinner) including side dishes can cost 5,000 won or less (try basements of large department stores).

In addition to Korean food, Japanese restaurants in Seoul tend to be excellent, featuring excellent sushi and sashimi. Chinese restaurants exist, but most are Koreanized to the point of unrecognizability. There are a few Italian restaurants; these are generally excellent, with chefs trained in Italy. Another interesting food trend in Seoul are the bakeries. These French-style patisseries are even more common than now-ubiquitous Starbucks and many of them serve surprisingly good treats. Three of the biggest chains are Crown Bakery, Tous Les Jours, and Paris Baguette.

Western chain restaurants such as Outback Steakhouse, Bennigan's, McDonald's, Burger King, and Subway are very common. For a Korean take on fast food, try Lotteria.

Budget

Seoul has plenty of budget places to eat. Everything from convenience store junk food and noodles to street stall food and lots of 24 hour Korean fast food restaurants. The 24-hour restaurants are great because they've usually got a wide variety of foods. Including: mandu, odeng, dokbokki, naengmyeon, udon and ramyeon. Prices do vary from about 2,000won to 9,000won at these restaurants. The larger department stores in the city have basement food courts that offer excellent food (not recommended if you care about atmosphere).

  • Sadongmyenok (사동면옥), Insadong 5-gil (down the alley). Justly famous for its manduguk, a soup of gargantuan homemade dumplings stuffed with meat and veggies and served with side dishes for W5000. English menu available.
  • Ala-Too Cafe - Near Dongdaemun Stadium, exit 5, are some Russian, Mongolian, and Central Asian restaurants (including the excellent and cheap Ala-Too Cafe, above a bakery). Wander around and discover the area a bit - you'll be rewarded with delicious food and an exotic experience.

Mid-range

  • New Delhi Restaurant, Itaewon (Noksapyoung station exit 1, cross overpass, turn right, 2 min up the hill on your left). Run by a Canadian-Indian owner, 15000 won gets you a a wonderful Indian meal. Try the chicken vindaloo, the garlic nan and the samosas.
  • Smokey's, Itaewon (Itaewon Station, Exit 2. Go out the exit and walk 50 meters. Turn left at the Hard Rock Cafe and walk 50 meters. Turn right and walk 10 meters), Apgujeong, Gangnam. Featuring a selection of over a dozen authentic American-style hamburgers, freshly made onion rings, and hearty chili-cheese fries, Smokey's is one of the best places to get a taste of home. Burgers range from 5,900 won for the "Classic" up to 10,000 for the deluxe varieties. Jumbo patties are available for an additional 3,000 won. Burgers can be ordered with fries, coleslaw, and a drink for an additional 3,500 won.
  • Pattaya, Itaewon (Itaewon Station, Exit 1. Go out the exit and walk 50 meters. Turn right at the KFC and walk to the end of the alley. Turn left and walk 70 meters past the 3 Alley Pub) Pattaya is, unsurprisingly, a Thai restaurant, and perhaps the best in Seoul. With a menu featuring nearly 100 different items, you're bound to find your favorite dishes and make some new ones, too. Stir-fried rice and noodle dishes cost between 13,000 and 18,000 won, while curry pots and stews can run over 30,000 a piece.
  • Jeonju Jungang Hoegwan (전주 중앙 회관), Myeong-dong (Myeong-dong Station, Exit 5) This Korean restaurant specializes in the Jeonju variety of bibimbap, which features different ingredients and spices than other bibimbap dishes. Delicious and healthy, a meal will set you back between 8,000 and 12,000 won. Phone: 02) 776-3400 Hours: Daily from 8:30AM-10:30PM
  • Everest, Dongdaemun (Dongdaemun Station, Exit 3. Go out the exit and walk straight for 100 meters. Turn left at the pharmacy and walk 50 meters). Nepali restaurant featuring dozens of delectable dishes ranging from mutton curry to butter naan. Meals generally cost between 8,000 and 15,000 won per person. Bollywood music videos are free.

Splurge

  • Hanwoori (한우리), Nonhyeondong (south of Apgujung). An upper-end Korean restaurant that specializes in the Korean version of Shabu-shabu, which is a boiling pot to which you throw in vegetables and very thin slices of meat. Their menu is extensive and while their atmosphere may not be cutting-edge, it is classy and clean.
  • Once in a Blue Moon [27]. Great food and atmosphere are a plenty at this snappy restaurant/jazz bar. Well worth the money for a nice night out. Live jazz music every night.
  • J Pub Ryu [28]. Amazing food and drinks, specializing in sake. The atmosphere is lively with the occasional celebrity siting. A definite hot spot any night of the week with an innovative menu of Japanese fusion.

Photos from Seoul, South Korea
Clothing and jewelry vendors in Sinchon.
Incheon Airport
Detail of the king's bedchamber, Changdeokgung
Vendors selling Korean fast food in Gangnam.
Children's Grand Park
Everland
See South Korea#Drink for general guidance to nightlife in Korea.

Seoul features a mind-bogglingly large array of nightspots catering to every taste and budget.

Itaewon is Seoul's international district, housing a variety of Western-styled venues to eat, drink and be merry. Being a place where many foreigners congregate, it remains somewhat of a niche nightlife area for Koreans who are interested in a more international scene. A number of notable bars and clubs spot the area, both on the main street and in the alleys off it.

Many bars in Itaewon celebrate Thursdays as Ladies' Night which often means that ladies drink free before 12am. Finally, there are a few gay bars, located two alleys east of the main street. There you can find a club and a few bars near one another.

Due to its proximity to the nearby United States Army Garrison Yongsan, a large number of American military are found here in the evenings and weekends. It is not unusual to see uniformed military wearing CP (Courtesy Patrol) or MP (Military Police) armbands enforcing the curfew.

  • Geckos, (opposite Quiznos). A relaxed bar scene and good food. Very popular with GIs and expats.
  • Seoul Pub.
  • Hollywood.
  • Rocky Mountain Tavern [29]. A Canadian bar for expats living in Korea. Located north of the main intersection.
  • The Loft.
  • Polly's Kettle.
  • Old Town.
  • The Wolfhound Irish Pub & Restaurant [30]. (in the alley behind Geckos across from Burger King). Serves a great selection of draft beers and hearty, homemade meals.
  • The 3 Alley Pub, Popular with the older expat crowd. It's located in an alley off the street near the Itaewon subway station.

For some good House/Trance music, try some smaller bars like:

  • Bricx.
  • Bar Nana.
  • Electric Cat.
  • Spy Club.
  • King Club. Gaudy and a tad sleazy. Located in a seedy part of the neighborhood.
  • XO.
  • Del Disco. Reportedly a gay club.

Sinchon (신촌), home to universities including the Ehwa Women's University (이화여대 Ihwayeodae) this is a great place to soak up a more Korean environment. (Sinchon is not to be confused with Sincheon, the only difference being the sound of the last o!) Sinchon is set up like many Korean 'play' areas, whereby bars, clubs, restaurants, singing rooms, and sometimes even motels, are structured in a grid-like fashion. The only way to familiarize yourself with the area is to stroll the alleys and discover all the different places. Korean bars tend to be rather antisocial compared with their Western counterparts, with people sitting at tables with friends and not tending to mix. There are a number of Western style bars in the area:

  • Woodstock. Around since 1991, the bar prompted a slew of copycats but is the best place to hear classic rock and pop. The sound system is awesome and the owner/DJ knows his stuff. Expect large crowds Friday and Saturday nights and seeing people dance from their tables. Great place to mix with Koreans of all ages.
  • Zen II.
  • Nori Ha Nun Saram Dul. A bar infamous for both its great rock music and its decrepit interior with writing on the walls. Difficult to find and almost impossible to get a seat after 9PM, but a definite must.
  • Watts on Tap[31]. Great pub grub and a wide range of imported draughts and bottles. Friendly atmosphere, international staff and clientele, and great tunes. Darts and rooftop patio. Watts regularly hosts events such as The Drinking World Cup and Electro (dance party). Popular with English teachers and the host of international undergrads and grad students at nearby Yonsei, Ewha, Hongik and Sogang.
  • The King's Tap (London Pub), 5th Fl., Cupid B/D, Changcheon-dong, Seodaemun-gu (Sinchon St., line 2, exit 3. Go right. Right again at second light. 100 meters on left across from Beer Zone.), 02-313-2223, [32]. Imported beers on tap and in bottles, pub grub, projection TV. Free pool, darts, foosball and claims to have Korea's first shuffleboard table.  edit

Hongdae (홍대), short for Hong'ik University, is the premier club area in Seoul by far. Located around Hongik University, clubs and bars are strewn everywhere around the place. The clubs aren't near the station, but aren't hard to find. The most popular clubs are:

  • M2 Trance/techno.
  • nb (noise basement) Hiphop.
  • Q-Vo Hiphop.

On a Friday or Saturday expect all of these to be packed tight. Last Friday of every month is Club Day where ₩15,000 will get you into those clubs who are part of the "Club Day". Expect a packed crowd. There are a number of bars popular with foreigners here too:

  • Tin Pan.
  • Bricxx.

The place is huge and you could party for a whole week in all the bars and clubs. The best way to see it is to stroll around and find something you like. An interesting note: The entire club district of Hongdae is officially off-limits to American military personnel, US Federal employees and their dependents. However, it is not unusual to see crew-cuts here on the weekends. In warmer months, don't pass up the closet-sized B-Dan on Hongdae's main strip, which offers up take-out draft beer by the plastic up.

Apgujeong (압구정) is the upmarket area of Seoul. Walk around the streets and you'll see teenagers valet parking their new Benz or Audi, strutting their new designer threads and looking generally, well, rich. That said, a lot of people who party in Apgujeong aren't necessarily rich and actually live far away. There are some clubs and bars here, but it is a rather subdued venue for partying. Nightlife here consists mainly of designer bars and restaurants. Places where it isn't possible to valet haven't turned out to be great hits traditionally. That said, there are a few small clubs in the area. Expect English to be more commonly spoken in this area too, due often to overseas education or excessive private tutoring. However with it comes a certain desensitization to foreigners, so don't expect people to stare or approach you as much as they would in other parts of Seoul. Consider Apgujeong as a great place to hang out, not rock out. If you wanted to impress a date for example, this would be a great place to go to. The backstreets of Apgujeong tend to sprout and lose new clubs seemingly at random throughout the year, so exploring off the main drag from time to time can sometimes yield a new "hot club of the month."

  • Superclub Circle usually playing house music, sometimes hip hop.
  • Club Air House/Techno club.

Gangnam (강남) is probably the second most popular club area. Also set up in a grid structure, clubs, bars, restaurants and various other entertainment venues decorate this upmarket location. While not as upmarket as Apgujeong, it definitely is busy and lively. If Apgujeong is the place for rich kids to hang out and look cool, Kangnam is the place for those rich kids to party and look sexy. The station is central and a ton of buses run through the heart of the entertainment area, so finding your way there is extremely easy.

  • NB. Full of clubbers pretty much every night of the week. The drawback is they have an opportunistic and rather unfair policy of charging foreigners 5000 won ($5 US) more than Koreans. It is however the best club in the area.
  • 4X. Popular with foreigners.

Note: Some bar districts, such as Hongdae, are off-limits to American military personnel, US Federal employees, contractors and their dependents. A nationwide curfew (imposed and enforced by the US Military as part of the Status of Forces Agreement) is also in effect for persons subject to the Uniform Code of Military Justice, American military personnel, US Federal employees, contractors and their dependents: midnight Su-Th and 3AM F-Sa.


Photos from Seoul, South Korea
Line up to Dunkin Donuts
Vendors selling Korean fast food in Gangnam.
Children's Grand Park
Incheon Airport
Roof with protective figurines, Changdeokgung
Detail of the king's bedchamber, Changdeokgung