
With over 10 million people, a figure that doubles if you include neighboring cities and suburbs, Seoul is by far the largest city in South Korea and the unquestioned economic, political and cultural hub of the country. By some measures, it is the second largest urban agglomeration on the planet, after Greater Tokyo.
Seoul suffers from a partly unwarranted reputation for pollution and traffic jams. These days, strict emissions laws have brought the pollution under control and, while traffic jams do still snarl up Seoul's streets at rush hour, the extensive subway network means that the traveler can easily shortcut through it almost all of the time. With beautiful palaces, great food and a hopping nightlife, Seoul is a frenetic way to experience the Asia of old and new.
The wooden top portion of the picturesque gate to the right burned down due to arson on February 10, 2008 after standing for almost 700 years.
Suanas generally take the form of public baths in Korea, and are a popular form of relaxation. Services such as hair cuts and shoe cleaning are generally available. Some suanas also include sleeping areas for overnight stay.
As the ancient seat of Korea's royalty, there are no fewer than 5 major palaces in Seoul, and some are definitely worth a visit.
Nearly all international flights to Seoul land in South Korea's 3rd-largest city at the futuristic Incheon International Airport (인천국제공항) (IATA: ICN) [2] west of the city. The airport is well signposted and caters to all your traveler needs, and even includes a sauna, an optician, and a small mall. There are two tourist information offices and many global ATMs. Currency exchanges are available, and are fairly priced.
Many limousine buses (₩9000 or so and up) travel directly to major areas and quite near big hotels in Seoul, while public buses (around ₩8000~₩9000) will take you to major transit hubs. If you're visiting for the first time it's recommended to take the limousine bus. For either bus type, consult the big maps or staff to figure out which route best suits your needs; you can then find the shuttles outside 1st floor arrivals (if possible get this information from your hotel before arriving). Or simply, walk out and ask the many ticket sellers (they are wearing vests) which bus goes to your hotel because if it's a popular one or in a popular area, they'll surely know which you'll need. It's best to buy tickets at any of the the ticket gates near the bus arrival area but you can also pay the fare using won or a T-Money card if you have one. The limousine bus drivers are extremely friendly but don't count on them knowing too much English. There are maps inside the buses letting passengers know which stops are upcoming and these are also announced in Korean and English. Pressing any of the red buttons inside signals to the driver you want off at the next stop.
The A'REX [3] train link to Incheon Int'l Airport is available and recently, transport to Gimpo Airport (which largely services domestic routes) is now open, with express and commuter services (both ₩3100) running every 12 minutes for a trip time of 28-35 minutes, making this both faster and cheaper than the bus. The rest of the link to Seoul is scheduled to be ready in 2010, but for now, you can continue from Gimpo by regular subway — although this is quite slow. But if your final destination is in or near the downtown areas--where most non-Korean tourists stay--the AREX doesn't extend that far into the city and the hassle of the numerous transfers can be avoided by simply taking any of the limousine buses as the price is only about 50% less if you use the Metro entirely.
Beware of taxi drivers trying to pick you up from inside the terminal and even the bus stop.
If you have a late flight and plan on getting into Seoul via bus, make sure you get out to the curb as soon as you can. The last buses run shortly after the last flights land. If you miss your bus, you'll be stuck paying for a taxi, as the trains will be done running too.
A taxi direct to Seoul will run around ₩40000/60000 regular/deluxe. As both buses and taxis are subject to traffic, allow extra time for rush hour delays; one possible shortcut is to take the subway to Gimpo and transfer to the train there (see below).
If you have time to kill at the airport but don't have the time or energy to face Seoul's traffic, see Yeongjong Island or Incheon for some layover suggestions. If you're connecting through ICN to another destination on Korean/Asiana and have over 6 hours to spare, you may be entitled to a free transit tour or hotel — ask at the transit desk.
The airport is open 24 hours. However, most shops are closed around 9PM-7AM. Free Internet access is available in the transit zone.
The more centrally located but older Gimpo Airport [4] (김포국제공항, GMP) caters only to the shuttle services to Tokyo-Haneda and Shanghai-Hongqiao, as well as domestic flights within South Korea. Gimpo Airport is easily reached on subway Line 5 (₩1400 and 50 minutes to downtown), and you can transfer to/from Incheon Airport with the A'REX rail link. A taxi to central Seoul will run around ₩30,000.
Seoul is the northern terminus of the KTX high-speed line to Daejeon, Daegu and Busan. There are two KTX stations within city limits: Seoul Station (서울역), on lines 1 & 4, and just a few stops south, Yongsan Station (용산역), on line 1 & 4(Shin-Yongsan station).
Nearly all ordinary (non-KTX) services also use one or both of the above terminals, but services east to Chuncheon and southeast to Gyeongju via Danyang use Cheongnyangni Station (청량리역), to the east of the city on line 1.
Every weekend approximately 2 million Seoulites leave the city, which goes a long way to explaining why the city has no less than five major intercity bus terminals.
There are ferry services to various points in China from the neighboring port city of Incheon. Currently no services run from Japan directly to Seoul; many Koreans take the coach or KTX train to Busan, where several ferry and hydrofoil options are available.
No matter where in Korea you start your journey, there will be at least one tolled expressways (Gosok Doro) and national highways (Gook Do) that lead to Seoul; the most important one is the Gyeongbu Expressway, linking Seoul with Busan.
Traffic jams are all too common in Seoul, so be careful on the streets and head underground when possible. Street and subway signage is usually written in English as well as Korean.
In Seoul, you can visit most places by using subways. There are currently 8 lines (10 if you count the Bundang Line and Incheon Line), with a 9th under construction. The lines are numbered and distinguished by different colors. All signs in the subway system are in Korean (both hangeul and if applicable, hanja) and English. The signs leading to the platform for a particular direction of travel on a given subway line typically list the names of a number of stations in that direction. Stations each have a 3 digit number, however Koreans don't really make use of these numbers and they're not on most subway maps, so don't rely on them.
Subway fares are based on the distance traveled, but the shortest ride costs ₩1000 when using a magnetic ticket. Small magnetic stripe tickets are available for single trip or multiple trips. Tickets can be purchased from ticket counters or vending machines. All the vending machines accept coins, but only a few accept bills (a sign will be posted if it can accept the new (2006/2007) won notes). Be sure to have enough coins or ₩1000 notes as if your fare isn't large enough, trying to purchase tickets with say a ₩10000 may be rejected by the machine. If there's no manned ticket office, there's usually a bill exchanger lurking nearby, although they don't always accept the new (2006/2007) won notes (a sign will be posted indicating such). Hang onto your ticket until the end of your trip, as you'll need it to get out. Also, try to buy round-trip tickets whenever possible (no discount but it'll save time from having to wait in line, especially during rush hour). Seoul's automated ticket machines aren't as easy-to-use as those in Busan, for example, and for most first-time visitors, simply purchasing from the attendant will likely prove easier. The ticket machines often only have buttons for the fare (eg. ₩1000, ₩1100 etc.)- there is a map of the metro printed above each ticket machine, with the cost of the journey marked next to each station (costs depend on which station you are at). So you first find the station you want to go to, read off the corresponding fare, and then buy a ticket to that cost.
If planning on using the Metro extensively or staying for more than a few weeks, consider purchasing a T-money stored value contactless smart card. You can buy this card at most subway stations and many newspaper kiosks near subway entrances, as well as convenience stores. The card itself costs ₩2500 and cash can be charged onto the card as often as you like. When entering and leaving a subway turnstile, place the card on the reader (leaving it inside your purse or wallet is fine) and it will deduct the appropriate fare from the card. Using this card will allow you to save ₩100 on all transfers (there are common with Seoul's extensive subway system) and you can get all but ₩500 back if you have unused credit. Typically for most travelers staying less than 2 weeks in Seoul, purchasing this card may not be cheaper but other factors should be considered: it can also be used for taxi fares, buses, storage lockers, etc. and saves the hassle from figuring out how much you need to pay or waiting in line to buy a single-use ticket. The subway is not operated 24 hours, so you may be stranded late at night.
Although there is only one subway network, lines 1-4 and 5-8 are run by two different companies, so information is available on two websites, the Seoul Metropolitan Subway Corporation and the Seoul Metropolitan Rapid Transit Corp.
Seoul also has an extensive bus service. There are four different kinds of buses: yellow, green, blue, and red. Yellow buses have a short circuit usually around tourist areas. Green buses travel around neighborhoods and connect with the subway. Blue buses go across town, while red buses are intercity buses. Buses will only stop at designated bus stops and will not wait for indecisive travelers.
Adult fare is as follows:
Cash - ₩1000
T-Money Card - ₩900
Note that by using a T-Money card, you can transfer between the bus and the subway for free up to 30 minutes after your last scan.
The city of Seoul provides an interactive bus map at the following site: Seoul Public Transportation System Guide [7].
There are three kinds of taxis in Seoul: regular taxi, deluxe taxi and call taxi. Deluxe taxis are colored black with a yellow sign, and are more expensive than regular taxis but provide better and more comfortable service. Regular taxis are silver. For the most part, regular taxi cabs have leather interiors and the drivers are nice--so for many, "regular" in Seoul might be "delux" in their hometown! It's easy to hail a taxi any time of the day or night along any relatively major Seoul street.
You can call a deluxe taxi wherever you are by calling 3431-5100. Sometimes you can find a visitor's guide taxi which is a kind of deluxe taxi, the drivers of which know English and Japanese and can guide you around Seoul city.
The basic fare for regular taxis is ₩1900 (₩2280 at night), with additional fare of ₩100 applied according to time and distance. In deluxe taxis, the basic fare is ₩4000 and the additional fare increases in increments of ₩200.
If there is more than one passenger, and you are traveling only a short distance (e.g., 1-2 Metro stops) it is usually cheaper to catch a taxi than to take a bus or subway.
Another kind of taxi is the AAFES taxi, although this type is mainly used by US military personnel on post. These taxis generally speak English better than the local taxis and take US$. The basic fare is $2.30 with additional fare of $0.30 according to time and distance. You can call for an AAFES taxi by calling 0505-736-5113.
In general, English speaking ability is poor among taxi drivers and many would not know more than the names of the most popular tourist attractions, so it would be wise to have your destination written in Korean to show to the taxi driver. It is also wise to get your hotel's business card in case you get lost. Some may even reject looking at a map so whenever possible, have the location written in Korean.
Fashion shopping in Seoul isn't a mere industry, it's an art form.
Myeongdong is probably the largest and best-known area; it is definitely the most tourist-friendly fashion area. In the spring and summer, fashion models/sidewalk promoters can be seen strolling the streets of Myeongdong promoting various cosmetics, stores or other fashion-related products. Many regular people also tend to catwalk their newest outfit on these streets. Rows of stores are available to look for that perfect accessory, and most of Korea's major brands can be found here: mVIO, Caspi Conus, WhoAU California, AHM, So.Basic, Noxon, Basic House, UGIZ, 1492, nipper, hang ten, A6, Bean Pole, Jambangee, Giordano as well as a few international brands such as Landrover, Adidas, Gap, Banana Republic, Koolhaas, Fubu, Anna Sui, etc.
Apgujeong (압구정), widely known as "The Beverly Hills of Seoul" is the land of luxury, brand name goods. International brands like Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Prada sit alongside Korean designer brands.
Near the Cheongdam Intersection lies the heart of the Korean shoe scene. Cutting edge shoe shops include Sue Comma Bonnie, Hyaang, Heels and Namuhana.
Trends often begin in University areas like Hongdae. Hongik University boasts Korea's most famous art school, thus fashion in this area is often influenced by the students' artistic sensibilities. The shops in this area feature funky, punky, boho, and vintage style. Ewha Women's University also has a big shopping area in front of it’s main gate, as do many of the Women's colleges. Many trends also originate here. There are even seamstresses who can help you make your own designs come to life.
Duty free shops: You can use United States$, Japanese ¥or Korean W. There are clerks who can speak Japanese in nearly every shop. Also the following credit cards are accepted: American Express (AMEX), JCB (Japanese credit card), Mastercard, or Visa.
There are duty-free shops in both the Incheon airport and the major department stores: Lotte, Shilla Hotel. There are other duty-free shops at Walkerhill Hotel, SKM DFS in COEX Mall.
| This guide uses the following price ranges for a typical meal for one, including soft drink: | |
| Budget | under 10,000 won |
| Mid-range | 10,000 to 25,000 won |
| Splurge | over 25,000 won |
Much of Korean social life revolves around food and the city is packed with restaurants, so it would take a determined man to starve to death in Seoul. This fate may still befall you if you insist on English menus and meals consisting only of easily identifiable, familiar ingredients, so see South Korea#Eat for a quick Korean menu reader. An alternative is to just point and eat, your hosts generally will accommodate. If you look in the right places, a good meal (lunch or dinner) including side dishes can cost 5,000 won or less (try basements of large department stores).
In addition to Korean food, Japanese restaurants in Seoul tend to be excellent, featuring excellent sushi and sashimi. Chinese restaurants exist, but most are Koreanized to the point of unrecognizability. There are a few Italian restaurants; these are generally excellent, with chefs trained in Italy. Another interesting food trend in Seoul are the bakeries. These French-style patisseries are even more common than now-ubiquitous Starbucks and many of them serve surprisingly good treats. Three of the biggest chains are Crown Bakery, Tous Les Jours, and Paris Baguette.
Western chain restaurants such as Outback Steakhouse, Bennigan's, McDonald's, Burger King, and Subway are very common. For a Korean take on fast food, try Lotteria.
Seoul has plenty of budget places to eat. Everything from convenience store junk food and noodles to street stall food and lots of 24 hour Korean fast food restaurants. The 24-hour restaurants are great because they've usually got a wide variety of foods. Including: mandu, odeng, dokbokki, naengmyeon, udon and ramyeon. Prices do vary from about 2,000won to 9,000won at these restaurants. The larger department stores in the city have basement food courts that offer excellent food (not recommended if you care about atmosphere).
Seoul features a mind-bogglingly large array of nightspots catering to every taste and budget.
Itaewon is Seoul's international district, housing a variety of Western-styled venues to eat, drink and be merry. Being a place where many foreigners congregate, it remains somewhat of a niche nightlife area for Koreans who are interested in a more international scene. A number of notable bars and clubs spot the area, both on the main street and in the alleys off it.
Many bars in Itaewon celebrate Thursdays as Ladies' Night which often means that ladies drink free before 12am. Finally, there are a few gay bars, located two alleys east of the main street. There you can find a club and a few bars near one another.
Due to its proximity to the nearby United States Army Garrison Yongsan, a large number of American military are found here in the evenings and weekends. It is not unusual to see uniformed military wearing CP (Courtesy Patrol) or MP (Military Police) armbands enforcing the curfew.
For some good House/Trance music, try some smaller bars like:
Sinchon (신촌), home to universities including the Ehwa Women's University (이화여대 Ihwayeodae) this is a great place to soak up a more Korean environment. (Sinchon is not to be confused with Sincheon, the only difference being the sound of the last o!) Sinchon is set up like many Korean 'play' areas, whereby bars, clubs, restaurants, singing rooms, and sometimes even motels, are structured in a grid-like fashion. The only way to familiarize yourself with the area is to stroll the alleys and discover all the different places. Korean bars tend to be rather antisocial compared with their Western counterparts, with people sitting at tables with friends and not tending to mix. There are a number of Western style bars in the area:
Hongdae (홍대), short for Hong'ik University, is the premier club area in Seoul by far. Located around Hongik University, clubs and bars are strewn everywhere around the place. The clubs aren't near the station, but aren't hard to find. The most popular clubs are:
On a Friday or Saturday expect all of these to be packed tight. Last Friday of every month is Club Day where ₩15,000 will get you into those clubs who are part of the "Club Day". Expect a packed crowd. There are a number of bars popular with foreigners here too:
The place is huge and you could party for a whole week in all the bars and clubs. The best way to see it is to stroll around and find something you like. An interesting note: The entire club district of Hongdae is officially off-limits to American military personnel, US Federal employees and their dependents. However, it is not unusual to see crew-cuts here on the weekends. In warmer months, don't pass up the closet-sized B-Dan on Hongdae's main strip, which offers up take-out draft beer by the plastic up.
Apgujeong (압구정) is the upmarket area of Seoul. Walk around the streets and you'll see teenagers valet parking their new Benz or Audi, strutting their new designer threads and looking generally, well, rich. That said, a lot of people who party in Apgujeong aren't necessarily rich and actually live far away. There are some clubs and bars here, but it is a rather subdued venue for partying. Nightlife here consists mainly of designer bars and restaurants. Places where it isn't possible to valet haven't turned out to be great hits traditionally. That said, there are a few small clubs in the area. Expect English to be more commonly spoken in this area too, due often to overseas education or excessive private tutoring. However with it comes a certain desensitization to foreigners, so don't expect people to stare or approach you as much as they would in other parts of Seoul. Consider Apgujeong as a great place to hang out, not rock out. If you wanted to impress a date for example, this would be a great place to go to. The backstreets of Apgujeong tend to sprout and lose new clubs seemingly at random throughout the year, so exploring off the main drag from time to time can sometimes yield a new "hot club of the month."
Gangnam (강남) is probably the second most popular club area. Also set up in a grid structure, clubs, bars, restaurants and various other entertainment venues decorate this upmarket location. While not as upmarket as Apgujeong, it definitely is busy and lively. If Apgujeong is the place for rich kids to hang out and look cool, Kangnam is the place for those rich kids to party and look sexy. The station is central and a ton of buses run through the heart of the entertainment area, so finding your way there is extremely easy.
Note: Some bar districts, such as Hongdae, are off-limits to American military personnel, US Federal employees, contractors and their dependents. A nationwide curfew (imposed and enforced by the US Military as part of the Status of Forces Agreement) is also in effect for persons subject to the Uniform Code of Military Justice, American military personnel, US Federal employees, contractors and their dependents: midnight Su-Th and 3AM F-Sa.