
Many people say that Savaii is the 'real' Samoa. It is certainly less developed, with no real towns as such, just a series of small villages with people living in traditional huts. You dont have to worry about getting lost on Savaii if you're driving - only one (well pathed) road runs around the island. Every few hundred metres you will likely pass a colonial style church, while by the coast you will see volcanic black sand beaches, pristene white sand beaches, or dramatic cliffs depending on the side of the island you're at.
Overall, come here if you want a more authentic and unspoilt Samoan experience away from the Internet cafe's and McDonalds of Apia.
Circumnavigate the entire island over a few days or a week (although it is possible to do in day) and admire the wonderful lush scenery and contrasting coastline. Head to the most westerly point of the island, which is only a few hundred miles from the international date line - and drop off the edge of the map!
Most people reach Savaii by small car ferry. The journey takes 1 hour 15 minutes from Mulifanua Port (towards the most western edge of Upolu). Several government travel warnings have been issued about the safety of this ferry - relating specifically to overloading and the threat of heavy vehicles moving during the voyage.
On most sailings, you will be the only foreigner on board. As a result, you will inevitably standout and it's quite likely that locals will try and strike up a conversation. Don't be concerned - this is almost always innocent and driven through sheer intruige about foreingers.
Also be aware that you will find it awkward dragging a suitcase onto the ferry, around Savaii and back, so you're best bet is to leave your suitcase with the Travellers Lounge in Apia, or with a hotel you're returning to and take only what you need in a rucksack or backpack for the time you're in Savaii.