Go out at night to the central Bairro Alto, or 'High Neighborhood'. Just up the hill from Chiado, this is the place to go out in town. In the early evening, go to a fado-themed restaurant near the Praca Camoes, and head upwards as the evening goes on. If you're in Lisbon on the night preceding a Feriado or public holiday, you have to check this out. Tiny little streets which are empty in the daytime become crammed walkways which are difficult to get through.

• Cine Theatro Gymnasium, Rua da Misericórdia nº 14, 2º Andar 1200-273 Lisboa, ☎ (+ 351) 210 121 000, [27]. Fado In Chiado - Daily show (except on Sundays) with a duration of 40 minutes. Voices that sing the Fado to the sound of Portuguese guitar. "Fado in Chiado 'encounter with the tradition in the historic Lisbon. A show that reveals the Fado as World Heritage, to hear and feel, the voice of the Portuguese soul.  edit

• Have a picnic in Jardim Botanico (see details in "See" section).

• Cristo Rei, (Catch the ferry to Cacilhas from Cais do Sobre then grab Bus 101(€1.35 return)), [7]. 9AM - 6PM. Similar to the Christ statue in Rio de Janeiro, this statue stands over 100 meters tall on the opposite bank of the Tejo River from downtown Lisbon. Views from the top of the statue are breathtaking, although the elevator up will cost you €4.  edit

Specialty transport

• Tram 28. Instead of paying for a trip in one of the tourist trams, try tram line 28. It takes you by many of Lisbon's most famous sites, and although it is overrun with tourists, you still get a flavor of the locals. Ticket costs Euro 1.40 per journey and can be obtained from on-board vending machines. These machines do not accept notes so ensure you have sufficient change. This tram route winds its way from Campo Orique to Martim-Moniz through many neighbourhoods and past several interesting sights including churches and gardens. The trip is hilly, noisy and hectic but affords beautiful glimpses over the city. From start to finish the ride takes around half an hour and is the cost of a normal fare. Beware of pickpockets.  edit

• Funiculars

• Santa Justa's Elevator, Rua Aurea & Rua de Santa Justa, ☎ +351 (21) 361-3054. Located downtown, this elevator was designed by a follower of French engineer Gustav Eiffel and connects the downtown to the Trindade, located several meters uphill. 7 Colinas valid.  edit

Architecture

• Castelo de São Jorge (St. George's Castle), (Walk up the hill from Alfama or take bus 37), ☎ +351 218 800 620, [8]. 9AM - 9PM (March - Oct) and 9AM-6PM (Nov-Feb). Located up the hill, with a great view over the city and the river. If you have the energy, get there by walking from downtown, going through the fantastic old neighborhood of Alfama. €5 with student discount available.  edit

• Ponte 25 de Abril. This sister bridge of the Golden Gate in San Francisco was designed by the same architect in 1966 to connect Lisbon with the Setubal peninsula across the Tagus (Tejo) River. Formerly known as the Salazar Bridge, it was renamed after the Carnation Revolution, which on April 25, 1974 ended the dictatorship.  edit

• Ponte Vasco da Gama. It is the longest bridge in Europe (including viaducts), and ninth longest in the world, with a total length of 17.2 km (10.7 mi), including 0.829 km (0.5 mi) for the main bridge, 11.5 km (7.1 mi) in viaducts, and 4.8 km (3.0 mi) in dedicated access roads.  edit

• Aqueduto das Aguas Livres. This is a historic aqueduct in the city of Lisbon, Portugal. It is one of the most remarkable examples of 18th-century Portuguese engineering. The main course of the aqueduct covers 18 km, but the whole network of canals extends through nearly 58 km. The Mãe d'Água (Mother of the Water) reservoir of the Amoreiras, the largest of the water reservoirs, was finished in 1834. This reservoir, with a capacity of 5,500 m³ of water, was designed by Carlos Mardel. It is now deactivated and can be visited as part of the Museu da Água (Water Museum).  edit

Neighbourhoods

• Chiado, [9]. Take a stroll along the historical streets of this elegant shopping district, stopping for a cup of coffee with the statue of Fernando Pessoa, Portugal's great Modernist poet. Head uphill to Bairro Alto, for stunning views of the city and some wild partying in Lisbon's most popular nightclub district.  edit

• Downtown (Baixa). This part of the city was completely rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake by the Marquis de Pombal. The planned layout, greatly different from what you will see in the more ancient neighborhoods, is a testimony to the ideas of the Enlightenment.  edit

• Alfama. This neighborhood is a sign of the Muslim presence in the city, with the buildings very close to each other, and very irregular streets. Its very atmospheric and a great spot in which to wander around.  edit

• Praça do Comércio, (Take the metro to Terreiro do Paço Station), [10]. This magnificent plaza, facing the river, is the beginning of Lisboa's downtown. It is also known as 'Terreiro do Paço', meaning 'Grounds of the Palace', relating to its function before the Great Earthquake of 1755.  edit

Belém

This monument-packed neighborhood is a must-see place.

Take tram 15 to the west, which follows the coast line. Check the route map inside the tram: it helps to find a right station for most famous of Belém attractions.

The neighbourhood features:

• Belem Tower (Torre de Belém). The likes of the tower. entry fee €4.  edit

• Jerónimos Monastery, [11]. free entry.  edit

• Monument to the Discoveries (Padrão dos Descobrimentos). entry fee €4.  edit

• CCB (Belém Cultural Center), [12]. The modern CCB is holding a permanent contemporany art exhibition, from the Berardo Collection - it features works from Picasso, Dalí, Duchamp, Magritte, Andy Warhol, among others.  edit

• Coach Museum (Museu dos Coches), [13]. Housed in the former ridding school of the palace, don't miss the world's largest collection of coaches and royal vehicles.  edit

• statue to Afonso de Albuquerque. In front of the former Royal Palace of Belém, now the Presidential Palace, there is a massive statue looking out to sea, representing Afonso de Albuquerque, second ruler of Portuguese India in the early 16th century.  edit

A stroll around its many gardens enjoying the river's bright blue is also a must.

Museums and galleries

• The Calouste Gulbenkian Museum, Avenida de Berna, 45A (take the metro to Sao Sebastiao or Praca de Espanha Sations), ☎ 21 7823000, [14]. 10AM-5:45PM; closed Mon. Created from the personal collection of Calouste Gulbenkian, an Armenian who longed to see all his treasures displayed in a museum. A nice assortment of Egyptian artifacts, along with paintings by masters such as Rembrandt, Manet, Monet, Renoir, and Cassat. The museum's gardens are worth a visit in and of themselves, as a little oasis in the middle of downtown Lisbon. 5EUR (permanent+temporary exhibition); half price for students under 25 with ID, holders of the European Youth Card (Euro26) and those aged 65 or over; free entry on Sunday and any other day for those under 12.  edit

• Fundação Arpad Szenes / Vieira da Silva, Praça das Amoreiras, 56/58, ☎ +351 (21) 3880044/53 (fasvs@fasvs.pt, fax: 351 21 3880039), [15]. Mon-Sat 11AM-7PM, Sun 10AM-6PM. This museum is installed in the restored 18th-century former Royal Silk Factory. It permanent collection covers a wide time period of the works of 20th-century painters Arpad Szenes and Maria Helena Vieira da Silva, and regularly hosts exhibits by their contemporaries. Adults €2.50, students €1.25, kids under 14 free.  edit

• Museu da Agua (Water Museum), [16]. Entrance fee of €1.5 to €2.5, depending on age or discount cards you may use.  edit

• Lisbon metro, [17]. Most of the metro system is a free art gallery. You'll find art by contemporary artists inspired by the stations' surrounding area. Check the subway webpage for more details on this curiosity. The red line is the newest one and has the best pieces of art.  edit

• Museu do Azulejo, [18]. Museu Nacional do Azulejo is one of the most important national museums, for its singular collection, Azulejo (Tile), an artistic expression which differentiates Portuguese culture, and for the unique building where its installed, former Madre de Deus Convent, founded in 1509 by Queen Dona Leonor.  edit

• Museu Colecção Berardo, Centro Cultural de Belem, [19]. It is the Museum of Modern Art of Lisbon, with collection of international modern and contemporary art of the 20th and 21st century currently represents around 1000 works from more than 500 artists.  edit

• Museu da Marinha, Centro Cultural de Belem, [20]. The interesting Maritime Museum is one of the most important in Europe, evoking Portugal's domination of the seas. Its colossal 17,000 items are installed in the west wing of Jeronimos Monastery, and include model ships from the Age of Discovery onward. The oldest exhibit is a wooden figure representing the Archangel Raphael that accompanied Vasco da Gama on his voyage to India.  edit

• Pavilhao do Conhecimento, Centro Cultural de Belem, [21]. The Pavilion of Knowledge - Ciência Viva is an interactive science and technology museum that aims to make science accessible to all, stimulating experimentation and exploration of the physical world.  edit

Parks and gardens

• Jardim Zoológico, Estrada De Benfiea 158-160 (Metro:Take the Blue Line to the Jardim Zooligico. Buses: A variety of buses stop here including 16, 31, 54, 58, 701 and 755), ☎ +351 (21) 7232-920, [22]. 10AM - 8PM (21st March - 30th Sept.) and 10AM - 6PM (1st Oct. - 20th March). A zoo that is fairly pricey, but has a variety of exotic animals featuring sea-lions and dolphins. €15.  edit

• Parque das Nações, On Av. Dom Joao II (Metro: Oriente Station. Train: Gare Do Oriente Station.), ☎ +351 (21) 8919-898, [23]. Built for the 1998 World Expo, the eastern side of town (take the Metro to Oriente) is a change from downtown. It includes:  edit
  • Oceanarium, ☎ +351 218 917 002, [24]. One of the world's largest oceanariums. Admission 11.00EUR.  edit
  • Pavilhao do Conhecimento, ☎ +351 218 917 100, [25]. Admission €3.00-€7.00.  edit

• Lisbon Botanical Garden, Rua da Escola Politécnica, 58 (Metro: Rato Sation), [26]. Daily 9AM - 8PM (Summer) 9AM - 6PM (Winter). The botanical garden of Ajuda is one of the oldest gardens in Europe and is considered the first in Portugal. After the earthquake that occurred in 1755, the homeless Portuguese royal family decided to build a new royal residence at Ajuda but also gardens around it. This 10 acre garden was laid out in from 1858-1873.  edit

• Jardim Botanico (Botanic Gardens), (between the Avenida da Liberdade and Bairro Alto). A hidden gem. It was created several hundred years ago, by a King of Portugal at the time of the Discoveries. The story goes that this King wanted one of every type of plant in the world, and although that's unlikely, there is a huge collection dating back by three or four centuries which is worth checking out. Also some weird and wonderful bizarre grafted trees - the roots hang down like fingers and toes where one tree has been grafted onto another, sometimes completely different, species. And there's something quite eerie about seeing plants or huge trees from completely different climates growing next to each other in apparent harmony. A great place to take a picnic - this green oasis is completely surrounded by city but even the city sounds filter out. Entrance 1.80EUR adults, discounts for kids, OAPS and students.  edit

Viewpoints and city view

• Armazéns do Chiado shopping mall (see details in Buy): top floor restaurants and cafes have fantastic city views.

By plane

Portugal's largest international airport is the Aeroporto da Portela (IATA: LIS). It is located between Loures and Lisboa. Alameda das Comunidades Portuguesas, Tel: +350 (21) 841-3000, Fax: +351 (21) 841-3675, [1]

It is the main air hub for TAP Portugal [2], a Star Alliance [3] member airline that covers an extensive network throughout Europe, Africa (Morroco, Algerie, Senegal, Guine Bissau, Mozambique, South Africa, Angola, Cape Verde, S. Tome e Principe) and the Americas (US, Venezuela and Brazil).

There are also several other airlines flying into Lisbon, such as Continental Airlines, US Airways, British Airways, Air France, Egyptair, Turkish Airlines, Lufthansa, Finnair, Iberia, Easyjet and KLM.

Getting from/to the airport

• Aerobus (line 91) links the airport to the city center. It departs every 20 minutes 7AM-9PM. Aeroshuttle (line 96) links the airport to the city centre via the Sete Rios bus station and the Financial district. Tickets on both cost €3.50 and are valid on all public transportation lines, such as buses and surface trams (but not for metro) for one day.

• Bus lines 5, 8, 22, 44, 45, 83. Board fare is €1.40. 7 Colinas transport card (see "Get around" section) can be used which can be bought at the airport post office)

• Taxis cost about €10.00 from the airport to the city center. Charge is according to the meter, adding €1.20 per item of luggage. As with many cities, watch out for dishonesty and if you think you are being charged significantly more (paying €45 to get into the city but only €6 back to the airport is not unheard of) ask for their number and a receipt, and make it clear you plan to complain. To avoid fraud, you can buy a taxi-voucher in the airport (€18 - a lot more than the average real meter price) which is good to go anywhere in the center, with luggage. Make sure to ask the driver how much he estimates the fare will be before getting in the taxi, which will diminish the chance for a surprise bounce in the price.

If arriving by plane in Lisbon, it is better to use public transport to your hotel or final destination, instead of taxis. The airport information desk at Lisbon airport can provide you with all the required information. Taxi drivers at the taxi stand at Lisbon are very infamously unreliable and if they can rip you off, they will. If you do not speak Portuguese or if you don't know the shortest way to your destination, do not use a taxi. If your final destination is less than 1 mile from the airport, taxi drivers will refuse to take you although they are not allowed to refuse destinations. If you insist in taking the taxi, the driver might abuse you verbally and try to rip you off. You may also request for a car rental services at the airport or an airport transfer wich are provided on all airports in Portugal and Islands.

If you arrive at Lisbon International Airport, do not use a taxi, unless you speak and understand Portuguese and know the layout of the city. Otherwise you will be ripped off as countless other tourists before you ever since the airport was opened. Take the public bus instead. If you insist in taking a taxi and your destination is less than 1 mile away, the driver will probably refuse to take you, shout at you during the whole trip (and still rip you off by making a large detour). This may be avoided by going to the departure taxi rank, this is one level above (go to departures and walk outside), it is hard to believe but there are two breeds of Airport taxi drivers and those that operate from the departure rank are "honest".

By train

There are two big train stations in Lisbon: Santa Apolónia and Gare do Oriente. However, if you are entering Lisbon from the south, you may want to get off at Entrecampos or Sete Rios: their metro stations are a few stops closer to the central and old town.

If arriving from the north (Porto, Gaia) and center (Aveiro, Coimbra) of Portugal use Santa Apolonia, close to Alfama/city centre.

Cais do Sodré is another important train station, connecting Lisbon to Cascais/Estoril coast.

By car

Lisbon can be accessed from six main highways. Coming from the south (A2) or east (A6 - the main route from Madrid), there are the two bridges:

From/to south: The A2 goes all the way to the 25 de Abril bridge, which usually has lots of traffic getting into Lisbon, especially on weekday mornings. This is the best option if you want to go to the center of Lisbon or to the west (A5 - Estoril, Cascais, Sintra).

To north / to east: If you branch from the A2 into the A12, you'll get to the Vasco da Gama bridge, the longest bridge in Europe, it usually has less traffic than the older 25 de Abril bridge (but a more expensive toll). This is the best option to go to the eastern/northern section of Lisbon (to the airport and to the Parque das Nações - the former Expo 98 site), and also to take the A1 or A8 going north.

From/to north and the airport: Coming from the north, there is the A1, that connects Lisbon to Santarém, Fátima, Leiria, Coimbra, Aveiro, Porto. The A1 ends near the airport. There's also the A8, which goes to Torres Vedras, Caldas da Rainha, Alcobaça, Leiria.

From the west, there is the A5, which connects to Estoril, Cascais, and the IC19 that crosses all the suburbs and ends near Sintra.

Lisbon has three ring roads: The 2ª circular, which connects the A1 to the IC19; the CRIL IC17 (still incomplete), which connects the Vasco da Gama bridge with the A1 and A8; and the CREL A9, which connects the A1 with the A8, IC19, A5, and goes all the way to the Estoril coast.

By bus

All nearby cities and most major cities in Portugal have direct buses to Lisbon. The main bus terminal is at Sete Rios (metro: Jardim Zoológico).

By boat

You can get a boat to Lisbon from the following stations: Barreiro; Trafaria; Montijo; and Cacilhas. It's an excellent sightseeing opportunity crossing the river Tagus to Lisbon.

Many cruise ships dock at several places along the river on the Lisbon side, with variably good access to public transport throughout the city. Many lines offer shuttles to key points nearby.

By bicycle

From airport: Due to the relative proximity of Lisbon's airport to the city center, it is quite easy to cycle from the airport to the center, and could be recommended if you arrive for a cycling trip.

After leaving the airport and negotiating a roundabout, merge onto the long and straight dual-carriageway Av. Almirante Gago Coutinho (you should be able just to follow the "Centro" ("Downtown") signs.) After merging, the route to Baixa is simple and straight. This street later turns into Av. Almirante Reis, and then Rua de Palma, at the end of which you will be right in Baixa.

Cycling outside Lisbon can be a challenge, as Lisbon offers far easier cycling than what you may find outside of the city. The further you get from Lisbon however, the easier the cycling gets. You may wish to take advantage of certain regional trains that take bicycles in a separate luggage carriage, allowing you to start your cycling some 50 or 100 kilometers outside of the city.

Cycling within the city is now much easier because of the work the municipality has been putting in with bike lanes, changing car traffic patterns and adding speed bumps etc but of course parts of the town will always be part of the surprisingly hilly outlet of Lisbon. Although better than in recent years there are still very few bike lanes in town the newest one stretches from Baixa to Belem along the beautiful river Tejo water front. Car drivers are now often weekend cyclists and way more careful with cyclists than in recent years. Good spots to cycle are along the EXPO coast, the waterfront between Cais Sodré and Belém.

Just outside of Lisbon -you can take for free a bike on trains or ferries- along the coast from Estoril towards the beautiful beach of Guincho, reach Sintra, Cascais or Costa da Caparica.

If you take a bicycle in public transportation beware of the following:

• Metro: During working days you are allowed to carry bicycles in the metro only after 8:30PM. On weekends, it's allowed and it's free of charge.
• Suburban trains: You are allowed to carry bicycles in the trains free of everyday of the week just be reasonable and avoid rush hour passenger patterns.
• Ferries: Bicycles travel for free, you are allowed but there are strict limitations on the number of bikes allowed depending on ferry lines and ferry boat type, arrive early and you shall avoid disappointment.

Bike shops in Lisbon town center are rare. You can find a SportZone near Rossio or in Amoreiras shopping mall. Ask there for specialist shops, shop assistants are usually very helpful.

For bike the sights and bike rentals you can always check out Bike Iberia (Phone: +351 96 242 3455, [4]) located in Baixa-downtown , next to Cais Sodre and the Praca Comercio square; they are professional, friendly and very helpful on providing tours, bikes, touring equipment, mountain biking gear and native insider's knowledge.

Metro and Buses

Lisbon has a very efficient public transport network that covers the entire city plus the surrounding areas.

Lisbon's recently refurbished metro system [5] is quick and efficient.

Single trip tickets within Zone 1 (which covers most of the city) cost €1.35 (as of November 2009). You can acquire this in the ticket machines in every metro station across the city and you will be given a green card. Make sure you keep that card for future trips because it may save you a lot of money since a one way ticket once you already have the card only costs €0.80.

The extensive bus and electrico (tram) network is run by Carris [6]. There are many ticket outlets, but you can also buy the ticket from the driver or machines on board (the latest only available in some trams).

The best way to pay for city transport is buying a rechargeable card 7 Colinas (Viva Viagem) card. It is valid for metro, trams (electrico) and most buses. The only exception is buses run by not by Carris--other bus companies have their own tickets. The card itself can be purchased for as little as €0.50 (this price doesn't include any trips--add as many trips as you ask for), and remains valid for a year.

If you are going to move around heavily on a specific day, an economic choice can be the all-day pass which costs €4 (valid until 1AM). The all-day pass is also valid on city buses and tram lines.

Note that you can charge 7 Colinas only one type of ticket a day (e.g. you can't charge it with a single ticket and a day ticket at the same time, but you can use it with a day ticket and then charge a single ticket the next day).

If you will be traveling around a lot, you may wish to get a multiple-day ticket.

If you plan to be in Lisbon for an extended time (1 week and more), you can purchase an unlimited pass that covers buses, metro, and funiculars at the Carris station in Santo Amaro. It's €10 for the Lisboa Viva card, plus €25 for a one-month unlimited pass. You can also get them in week-long or two-week unlimited denominations. Bring a photo ID (passport) and cash.

By Car

Think twice before using a car in the city unless you are prepared to spend hours in traffic jams. Parking in certain areas can also be a pain. The busy traffic and narrow streets with blind corners can be overwhelming to tourists as well.

If your accommodation is in the center of the city, walking is a great alternative. Many of the attractions of the city, such as the Castelo and the Alfama and Bairro Alto districts, are within easy walking distance of the Baixa.

If you become lost or cannot find the location you are looking for, try to locate the nearest Carris bus or tram stop. Most of these stops (not all) have a very good map of the city with your current location clearly marked on the map. All the prominent tourist sites in Lisbon are also shown along with an index at the bottom of the map. A quick consultation with one of these Carris maps should point you back in the right direction.

You may also use the funiculars and elevadores (Santa Justa's), refer to See:Exotic Transport for details. Day passes for public transportation are also valid for those.

Renting a car

With Budget: If you choose to return a car near your hotel, don't rely that an agent come right in the agreed-upon time: for an agreed 12pm return he can easily arrive at 9am (and will come again upon your call).

Shops are open a little later than other places in Europe, usually around 9:30AM-10PM, and the lunch breaks can be quite long, usually from 1PM to 3PM.

You can buy a Lisbon Shopping Card [28], which gives you 5% to 20% discounts at about 200 major stores in Baixa, Chiado and Av. Liberdade for a period of 24 hours (card costs EUR3.70) or 72 hours (card costs EUR5.70).

Shopping streets

• Baixa: From Praça do Comércio (aka Terreiro do Paço) to the Restauradores, the Baixa is the old shopping district in the city. It includes pedestrian Rua Augusta which has the most boring and mass-visitor tourist stores, and several European chain clothing stores like Zara, H&M, Campers.

• Chiado: a number of independent shops and services and well known brands such as Hugo Boss, Vista Alegre, Tony & Guy, Benetton, Sisley, Pepe Jeans, Levi's and Colcci, which makes Chiado, together with Avenida da Liberdade, one of the Top 10 places to shop in the world. Some informal brands like Crumpler are also there.

• Avenida da Liberdade: Louis Vuitton, Calvin Klein, Timberland, Massimo Dutti, Armani, Burberrys and Adolfo Dominguez are just some of the shops you'll find across this avenue, which is not just one of the most beautiful and wide in the city, but also one of the fanciest with splurge hotels and restaurants.

Malls

While most stores are closed on Sundays, many malls are open 7 days a week. They usually open around 9:30AM and close by 11PM or midnight, although the film theaters within them usually run a late session starting after midnight.

• Centro Comercial Colombo, Av. Colegio Militar (Metro: Take the Blue Line to Colegio Militar/Luz Station), ☎ +351 (21) 771 36 36, [29]. 9AM - Midnight. One of the largest malls in Europe, this shopping and leisure complex also houses dozens of restaurants, a bowling alley, health club, multiplex cinema, funfair with rides including a roller coaster, and a go-cart track.  edit

• Armazéns do Chiado, Rua do Carmo 2 (Metro: Baixa-Chiado Station), [30]. A massive mall that draws a young hip crowd shopping for books, CDs, and DVD.  edit

• Centro Comercial Vasco da Gama, (Metro: Oriente Station), [31]. A large mall and theme park in the Parque Expo.  edit

• Centro Comercial Amoreiras, Av. Eng. Duarte Pacheco (Metro: Marquês de Pombal Station), [32]. The city's oldest mall in eye-catching post-modern towers housing international chains.  edit

• El Corte Inglés, Av. António Augusto Aguiar, 413 (Metro: Sao Sebastiao Station), [33]. Big department store with cinema and supermarket, a bit pricey but with good quality items.  edit

• Dolce Vita Tejo, Avenida Cruzeiro Seixas,Amadora (Metro: Take the Blue Line to Amadora Station, and take a bus from there as the mall is beyond walking distance.), [34]. The biggest Shopping Mall in Europe.  edit

Clothes and fashionwear

• Ramos & Silva / Optica do Chiado (André Ópticas chain), Rua Garrett 63/65, ☎ +351 213 264 000, [35]. 10-19 ?Mon-Sat. A good selection of designer eyewear from a dozen of brands (Lindberg, DSquareD etc).  edit

Unconventional souvenirs

• Rua Anchieta, 11 (Chiado), ☎ +351 21 346 50 73 (avidaportuguesa@gmail.com), [36]. Vintage and nostalgic products and brands.

Flea markets

• Feira da Ladra, Campo de Santa clara (Take Tram 28). 6AM-5PM Tuesday and Saturday. A lively out door market offering both new and used products. Markets of this type have pleased bargain hunters since the 12th century in Lisbon and the Feira da Ladra name has been around since the 17th century.  edit

Portuguese dining rituals tend to follow the Mediterranean siesta body clock.

Most restaurants are very small, family run and generally cheap. Some of them has a sheet on the door with the "pratos do dia" (dishes of the day) written on. These dishes are usually cheaper and fresher than the rest of menu there, and unless you're looking for something specific, they're the right choice.

During the dinner the waiter will probably bring you some unrequested starter dishes (called couvert): as those are not free, feel free not to touch them and they will not be charged on your bill (but check it!).

Choosing a neighbourhood

For Portuguese traditional cuisine at its finest, head to the area of Chiado.

Tourist traps with laminated menus and meal deals are mostly concentrated in the Baixa area.

It has an exception, however: Rua das Portas de Santo Antão (north-east from Praca dos Restauradores, parallel to it)--it's the seafood strip, and home to the best greasy spit-roasted chicken this side of Louisiana.

For a familiar taste at one of the many chain eateries, head to Doca de Santo Amaro (train/tram 15 station Alcantara-Mar) and Parque das Nações (metro Oriental).

All the culinary and clubbing kudos is right now concentrated in Doca de Jardim de Tabaco (piece of river waterfront right under Castelo de Sao Jorge).

Quality dishes for a high price are in well-to-do Lapa.

Tour groups primarily feel at home in Alfama.

Traditional Portugese restaurants are in Bairro Alto, scattered abundantly through its quirky narrow streets.

Fado

Make sure that you dine at a restaurant that plays traditional fado music. Beware that you'll pay more than in normal restaurants, and the food and drink quality may not be up to the price, you're paying for the music experience.

Pastelarias

Try the magnificent pastéis de nata at any pastelaria; or better yet, visit the Antiga Confeitaria de Belém (Casa Pasteis De Belem) [37] (Rue de belem 84; +351 21 363 74 23; take eléctrico #15 from Praça do Comércio, or the Cascais suburban train line from Cais do Sodré station, to Belém stop). They are served right out of the oven there, with the side of confectioner's sugar and cinnamon; as you navigate through the azulejo-decorated labyrinthine passages of the expansive shop, stop to look at the workers behind glass panels turning the endless stream of these delicacies, just baked, each in its own little ramekin, over onto the waiting trays. These are absolutely a must eat and you can't possibly regret it.

Budget

You will find traditional meals served in small coffeeshops/restaurants, especially in the old parts of town. Some will be better than others, just check if there are a lot of locals eating there! They will be very cheap (as low as €5 for a full meal) and home-style cooking. The owners probably wont speak english and the menu will probably be in portuguese only!

• Café Buenos Aires, Calçada Escadinhas do Duque No. 31, ☎ +351 21 3420739. A good and selected combination of cheap and mid range dishes. The owners are very friendly and speak English, as well as Portuguese. (This restaurant would not be described as budget by any Lisboeta that I know or have known! It is a good restaurant if you want to eat south american grilled meat in Lisbon.)  edit

• Gurkha, Arco das Portas do Mar, 9 (Near Casa dos Bicos). Among Lisbon's many curry houses, this Nepalese restaurant is a little hidden, but offers good value Asian food (tandoori, curries) for a total of about about 8-12 euros per person.  edit

• Mercado da Ribeira, Cais do Sodre (Opposite the train station, on the Marginal). Lunchtime all-you-can-eat buffet (soup, main course, dessert). Unlike much of Lisbon's restaurants, offers a good selection of salads. A bargain at 7.50.  edit

Groceries and markets

Grocery stores are closed on Sundays after 1PM, except (a) those smaller than 2000m2 or (b) from November 1st to December 31st.

• Mercado da Ribeira, Avenida 24 de Julho (Cais do Sodré). 7AM-1PM except Sunday. A massive farmers market open in the mornings. This is a great place to buy snacks for the day while traveling on a budget. Pick up nuts, fruit, veggies, cheese, bread or meat or delight your travel mate with some beautiful flowers.  edit

Mid-range

Alfama

• A Tasquinha (from donwtown, turn left near Igreja de Santa Luzia to Rua do Limoeiro; then turn right to Rua de Santiago. Pass Camidas de Santiago. Look for outdoor red chairs and tables, white umbrellas), Largo Contador Mor 5/7. Great food; owner and guest signers perform fado on Fri evenings without charging extra for it; many outdoor tables; great red Sangria. Try bacalau with potatoes and onion in cream sauce--excellent change from ubiquitous "rice/chips with grilled everything".  edit

• Chapito. Dinner: from 7:30pm.. Great views are the main feature if you reserve terrace seat in advance. Good atmosphere; international-menu food is tasty but nothing special.  edit

• DeliDelux‎, Avenida Infante D. Henrique Armazém B - Loja 8, ☎ +351 218 862 070 (geral@delidelux.pt), [38]. Tue-Fri: 12pm-12am; Sat 10am-12am; Sun 10am-8pm. Breakfasts in a contemporary setting; pleasant views. Average bill: 20eur.  edit

• Malmequer Bemmequer, Rua de Sao Miguel 23-25, ☎ 351 21 887 65 35, [39]. Closed on Mon.. Friendly and inexpensive; long menu of traditional Portugese dishes.  edit

• Pois Cafe, Rua S. João da Praça N. 93-95 (on the side street of cathedral Sé), ☎ +351 (21) 886-2497 (pois@poiscafe.com), [40]. 11am-8pm, Tue-Sun. It's a place to relax, read a book, drink a coffee and plan you way around Lisbon. Also offers toasts, pastas, quiches and salads; features (late) breakfasts.  edit

Downtown

• Néctar WineBar, R. dos Douradores, 33 (Baixa Pombalina neighbourhood), ☎ 912633368 (geral@nectar-winebar.com), [41]. Lunch: Mon-Sat 12:30pm-3pm; Dinner: Mon-Thu 6pm-11pm; Fri-Sat: 6pm-12am. Features daily lunch menu; portuguese and mediterrenean cuisine. A place dedicated to the promotion of Portugal's wine and gastronomic culture. The wine list comprises - in its vast majority - a selection of Portuguese wines which best represent the country. Wine can be bought by the glass, and it is served at the appropriate temperatures and in suitable glasses. Dishes - served in portions for 2 - easily replace a main course meal. Homemade-style desserts, for which sweet wines can be suggested. A modern and cosy atmosphere. €25-35.  edit

• Tamarind, Rua da Gloria 43-45 (near Elevador da Glória), ☎ 213 466-080. Small Indian restaurant. Avg bill per person: 30EUR.  edit

Docas

• Arroz Maria, Doca de Sto Amaro (take train from Cais do Sodre, ride to Alcântara-Mar station), ☎ +351 (21) 395-4677. Spanish food restaurant with fabulous seafood with a great view of the Tejo river and the Ponte de 25 Abril. Excellent service and really fresh food. Don't miss the tamboril (monkfish) with the tomato and asparagus sauce. Really worth the effort to get there, the Docas area is fairly newly developed, and the railway line makes it hard to find a way across the main road, but with determination it's a great spot to go to. It's one of a number of restaurants of varying types along this stretch of the quayside, but it stands out for quality and value. Check it out before it gets 'trendy'. €25 (two courses with wine and port).  edit

Bairro Alto

• Terra, Rua da Palmeira 15 (near Jardim do Príncipe Real, www.terra.vg), ☎ +351 707 108 108, [42]. Probably the best vegetarian restaurant in Lisbon and also the nicest in terms of ambience and service. They have a menu in English and will help with vegan choices or people with other dietary restrictions. Reservations are recommended, especially on weekends but you will always be served even if you arrive with the place full and have to wait for a while. Weather permitting try to get a table "outside", which means a wonderful and secluded back terrace. €15-20 (Vegetarian Buffet plus drink and/or dessert).  edit

• Sul, Rua do Norte 13, ☎ +351 21 346 24 49. Delicious Mediterranean and South American food. Good wine and drinks list. Helpful staff will translate the menu, which is written on the blackboard, and happily cater for vegetarians. Gets packed in the evenings so bookings recommended if you're eating from 9PM onwards. No outdoor tables. €30 (''2 courses with wine and cocktail'').  edit

• Brasuca, Rua Joao Pereira da Rosa 7, ☎ +351 (21) 322-07 40. Great Brazilian food served by friendly staff.  edit

• Lisboa à Noite, Rua as Gaveas, 69, ☎ 21 346 85 57 (fax: 213 460 222), [43]. A restaurant with a variety of traditional Portuguese dishes very appreciated by the tourists. Friendly environment, great service. Make sure you try the appetizers.  edit

• Ali a Papa, Rua da Atalaia 95, ☎ +351 (21) 347-4143, [44]. Dinner only: 7pm-4am. Couscous heaven in a tiny and friendly room. Highly recommended, and good veggie options too. €20 (two courses with house wine).  edit

• Calcutá, Rua da Atalaia 28, ☎ +351 (21) 346 -8165, [45]. Best Indian food. Ask for the shoot drinks! €25 (two courses with house wine).  edit

Splurge

• Eleven, Rua Marquês da Fronteira, ☎ +351 (21) 386-211, [46]. If you really feel like splurging, this is the place. The restaurant was recently awarded a Michelin Star, although the basis on which the award was made are disputable.  edit

• Il Gatopardo, Av. Eng. Duarte Pacheco, 24 (3rd Floor of the Dom Pedro Palace hotel). Lunch: 12:20PM - 3:30PM, Dinner: 7:30PM-11:30PM. An elegant restaurant serving fashionable gourmet Italian with a big price tag.  edit

• Panorama, Rua Latino Coelho 1, ☎ +351 (21) 312-0000. Superb views over Lisbon and food with a good quality/price ratio.  edit

• Bica do Sapato, Avenida Infante Dom Henrique Armazém B, Cais da Pedra à Bica do Sapato, ☎ +351(21)8810320, [47]. Superb views over Lisbon and food with a good quality/price ratio.  edit

Downtown

• Gambrinus (restaurant / bar / brewery), Rua das Portas de Santo Antao, 23 (Four Seasons Hotel Ritz), ☎ +351 21 342 14 66 (info@gambrinuslisboa.com), [48]. 12:30pm-1:30am. One of the most chic places in the city. Highly recognized in Lisbon as something of an institution, it attracts an eclectic crowd where the appeal is food and a great selection of beers, wines and spirits. Features smoking room, private parking with a doorman.  edit

Lisbon is known for its lively nightlife. For going out, stroll around the old neighborhood of Bairro Alto ('high neighborhood') for an after-dinner caipirinha or ginjinha and people-watching. Its small streets, full of people, are packed with high variety of bars. Friday and Saturday nights are the busiest, but the Bairro is rocking every night until dawn.

Alcântara, Santos, Parque das Nações, and the castle area are all neighborhoods with a thriving nightlife. The whole area near the river/Atlantic, known as the docas, is a huge hub for nightlife, as Lisbon has never lost its ties to the sea.

• Garrafeira Alfaia, Rua Diário de Notícias 125, ☎ +351 (21) 343-30 79 (garrafeira.alfaia@clix.pt). Nice wine bar with an impressive selection of good wines and appetizers. Good place to spend the late afternoon, before going out to dinner.  edit

• Chafariz do Vinho, Rua da Mae d'Agua., ☎ 21 342 20 79. Perfect place to linger over a glass of wine at this wine bar that is under the arches of the city's former acquaducts. With a great selection of appetizers that are matched perfectly with the wine, it's a pleasant way to spend an evening.  edit

• Ritz Bar, Four Seasons Hotel, Rua Rodrigo da Fonseca, 88, ☎ 21 381 14 00. Designed by Pierre Yves-Rochon, you'll enjoy deep, sumptous sofas and an impressive collection of contemporary art displayed on the walls. And with decorated bartender Paulo Costa serving you drinks, its a great place to peruse a crowd of sophisticated clientele.  edit