
Wellington, known as New Zealand’s arts and culture capital, offers an unmatched blend of culture, heritage, fine food, and lively arts and entertainment.
Surrounded by hills and a rugged coastline, the city boasts a stunning harbour. Wellington’s charm is that it serves up a vibrant inner city experience with a slice of New Zealand scenery. And because of its compact nature, you can sample it all - boutique shopping, art galleries, trendy cafes and restaurants. Right on its doorstep is a network of walking and biking trails with beautiful wineries and vineyards just a few hours away.
Wellington is a city that brims with energy and vitality, it offers an almost overwhelming array of theatre, music, dance, fine arts and galleries and museums. It is also home to one of the nation’s key attractions, the Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa, which is recognised as a world leader of interactive and innovative museum experiences.
Wellington offers a unique mix of experiences few cities could lay claim to. With so many options at your fingertips, you’ll need at least three days to slip into the groove of this amazing place.
Because it is the capital city, the New Zealand Parliament and the head offices of many Government departments and large businesses occupy central Wellington. This is especially true in the areas closest to Parliament Buildings - the northern end of The Terrace and Lambton Quay areas and the Thorndon commercial area. At midday hundreds of public servants can be observed eating lunch at several parks and open areas, notably Midland Park on Lambton Quay.
Much of the central city is built on reclaimed land that was raised up after a major earthquake in 1855. More land has been reclaimed since then. The shoreline as it was in 1840 is marked by plaques in the footpaths on Lambton Quay (hence the street name). There are several Quays which are now nowhere near the harbour. The harbour's former name was 'Port Nicholson' and the smaller bay surrounded by the city is called 'Wellington' or 'Lambton Harbour'.
Earthquakes have played a major part in forming the whole Wellington region - the exposed face of the Wellington fault being prominent as the line of hills adjacent to the harbor between Thorndon and Petone. There are several major earthquake faults in the region, some of which slip a meter or more in one jump every few centuries. Building regulations have meant that most of the older city buildings have been either demolished or strengthened in the last 20 years or so. Small and moderate earthquakes occasionally rock Wellington; so if the earth seems to move for you, it may not be just your imagination: stay indoors unless a "warden" or similar authority advises evacuation, and take shelter against potentially falling objects wherever you are.
Wellington is known as the Windy City. The prevailing wind is from the northwest but the strongest winds are southerly. The wind speed and direction can be seen by the flag being flown from the Beehive. A large flag is flown only on calm days, a small flag is flown when windy days are expected.
The temperature in Wellington rarely drops below 0 degrees Celsius, even on a cold winter's night, while daytime winter temperatures are rarely lower than 8 degrees Celsius. During summer, the daytime maximum temperature rarely gets above 23 degrees Celsius. Away from the seaside, in inland valleys, frosts of up to -10 degrees Celsius have been recorded and snow has been known to fall and settle on the nearby mountain ranges for a few days after particularly nasty southerly storms.
Wellington sits at the southern tip of New Zealand's North Island. The city core lies along the western shore of highly-protected Wellington Harbor, with the city's suburbs spreading out in all directions. The city's primary urban core consists of the CBD and the adjoining 'city suburb' of Te Aro, to the south and east. A fairly dense zone continues south from Te Aro into the adjoining suburbs of Mt. Cook and Newtown, as well as Kilbirnie on the other side of the parklands of Mt. Victoria.
East from Te Aro, north-south-running ridgelines form Mt. Victoria and, further east yet, the Miramar Peninsula, which forms the western side of the mouth to Wellington Harbor. These hills—and the isthmus between—are home to a number of suburban areas as well as parkland and beaches.
Several kilometres south of central Wellington is the rugged and stunning South Coast of the island, consisting of a string of small (and some large) bays, many with rocky beaches and interesting tide pools.
To the west, suburbs spread into the hillsides and then give way to open rural areas, with various parks and hiking trails.
Wellington International Airport [4] is in Rongotai, about 5 km from the central city. It sits on an isthmus between the Miramar peninsula and Mount Victoria. The southerly approach is over Cook Strait, while the northerly approach is over the harbor.
Wellington airport is a major transit point for domestic travellers. There are frequent flights to Auckland, Christchurch, Palmerston North, Rotorua, Hamilton, Nelson, Blenheim and many other destinations. International flights from Australia (Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane) arrive about twice daily - the evening flights arrive after midnight when most facilities are closed.
Landing at Wellington Airport in a strong cross-wind can be an adventure, and most pilots adopt a powered approach for approach, followed by a full reverse thrust and hard braked landing due to the shortness of the runway. This tends to create a rollercoaster ride, so make sure your seatbelt is securely fastened.
There is a regular airport bus known as the Flyer that departs from the south end of the domestic terminal until 9pm. Shuttle van services, taxis and covered carparking are directly outside the terminal. When you get to the airport, call the Metlink hotline at 0800 801700. They answer very quickly and a friendly person will tell you what bus to take and even what special pass to buy (for example, if after the "Flyer" you are taking a train) if you let them know where you are going.
There are regular ferries between Wellington and Picton, connecting with buses and the train to Christchurch. Cruise ships from overseas often stop in Wellington.
There are only two major roads into Wellington, but they are the top two: State Highways 1 & 2. State Highway One follows the western coast to the north, and State Highway two heads north-east through the Hutt Valley, over the Rimutaka Ranges to the Wairarapa. Both roads are initially a motorway, but after approx 20kms turn into single lane highway as they negotiate difficult terrain. While local authorities are working on improvements, serious and fatal crashes are common on these roads - remember to keep left, keep to a reasonable speed, and to use the passing bays to overtake slower traffic.
Drivers using the Rimutaka Hill road must be alert to extreme wind and weather, especially in winter. The road can close several times a year due to snowfall near the summit. Also drive carefully when descending as crashes have occured where vehicles brakes have overheated and drivers have been unable to slow for sharp corners.
Hitchhiking from central Wellington is difficult as most traffic stays within the metropolitan area, and it is illegal to hitchhike on the motorway until the Hutt Valley (about 15km north-east of Wellington) or Paremata (about 20km north). If intending to hitchhike, you are best to catch a train to Paraparaumu or Upper Hutt then walk to the main highways to catch a lift from there. Using a sign will help in matching a willing driver and destination.
Be aware that a few hitchhikers, including tourists, have been attacked or murdered in New Zealand. While usually no problems occur, always be aware, and try to travel in pairs to reduce your risk.
There is a train service between Wellington and Kapiti coast.
It is easy to get around the central city on foot, as is very compact and pedestrian-friendly. In addition, New Zealand's best public transit network—in the form of buses, commuter trains, and suburban ferries—is available to take you further afield, or if you just don't feel like hoofing it.
The core of Wellington is notably compact and vibrant, and is well-suited to exploration by walking. As dictated by geography, the core of the city is quite linear, with the classic commercial backbone known as the Golden Mile making for a diverting and pleasant walking route. This route runs from the Railway Station down Lambton Quay to its southern end at Willis Street. It then runs down lower Willis Street to Manners Street and the pedestrianized Manners Mall, and continues straight onto Courtenay Place. On the Manners Mall section, the route crosses Wellington's bohemian heartland of Cuba Street, which heads south into the core of Te Aro. While these streets mark the traditional core of the commercial city, the surrounding blocks also have plenty to be seen.
Another enjoyable and popular place to amble in the city core is the Waterfront, from the currently-being-revitalized Kumutoto area in the north, past Queen's Wharf to Frank Kitts Park, and then through the Lagoon and City-to-Sea Bridge areas and on to the Te Papa museum and the newly-created Waitangi Park. From here the waterfront curves northeastward along lovely Oriental Bay with its beach and promenade.
Wellington has an extensive network of buses, including a significant number of lines served by electric trolleybuses. Full information about routes and fares can be found on the Metlink Website.
You can always call the friendly hotline at 0800 801700 and they will tell you what buses to take and how much it will cost. Bus fares use a zone structure. While the metropolitan area includes many zones, nearly the entire city of Wellington (extending to the water's edge in the south, east, and west, and as far north as Johnsonville) exists within three zones. In addition, the core of the network between the Railway Station and Courtenay Place serves as a special fare zone. Fares are as follows:
| Number of Zones | Fare |
|---|---|
| City Core (Railway Station to Courtenay Place) | $1.00 |
| 1 Zone | $1.50 |
| 2 Zones | $2.50 |
| 3 Zones | $3.50 |
If you plan to use the bus extensively, you can also buy an all-day central Wellington Daytripper bus pass for $5 ($12 for up to 4 people). This pass allows unlimited trips (not before 9:00 am on weekdays) within zones 1 through 3. In addition, 10-trip fare cards are available from convenience stores, etc., which provide approximately a 20% discount off the prices listed above.
Excellent and free network maps and route timetables and maps are available from locations throughout town, including the main visitor centre in Civic Square, the Central Library, and many StarMart convenience stores. While these maps can be quite useful if you desire to travel into the suburbs, they aren't generally necessary if you simply want to travel across the central city. Being a rather linear city, the heart of Wellington is heavily served by the central bus corridor between the Railway Station and Courtenay Place. Nearly all lines run along this section, so you rarely have to wait more than a minute to catch a ride. The route is approximately as follows:
The train is the best form of public transport between the city and the Hutt Valley or Porirua - although you will have to walk or catch a bus from Waterloo (Hutt Central) to central Lower Hutt. The easiest way to travel between the Hutt Valley and Porirua is by train via Wellington (it is no cheaper to change at Kaiwharawhara, and not all services will stop there). Trains run every half hour on the Hutt Valley and Porirua lines, and more frequently during peak hour. Services are generally every hour on sundays.
If departing from Wellington station the platforms are clearly marked and announcements are made a few minutes before each train is due to depart. Tickets can be bought either at the station or from the conductor on the train once the train is moving. Most smaller stations do not have ticket offices, so just buy your tickets after you board.
A 'day rover pass' can be brought for $10 per person, which allows you unlimited trips on any of the four commuter lines on the same day (between 9AM and 3PM weekdays and all day Saturday and Sunday). This can often work out cheaper than buying separate tickets if you need to make two or more journeys.
Taxis cost approximately $3 for flagfall plus $1.70 per kilometre. Executive Taxis has professional service and a larger cab at $1.80 per kilometre. There are sometimes budget taxis for cheaper rates. The taxi companies in Wellington are not as useless as they are in other countries and they do tend to arrive more or less when expected. Wellington Combined taxis are arguably the most popular with locals, and certainly the easiest to spot with their distinctive blue roof-mounted signs.
As noted above, driving in the core of Wellington is generally not necessary or as convenient as walking. However, it is not particularly difficult once you learn the one-way system, nor is traffic a big worry outside of normal rush-hour periods.
Street and garage/surface lot parking is not particularly difficult for a city of Wellington's density, but as with any city you may have to search a bit for a street spot. Street parking is generally metered in the centre at a rate of $4/hour, often with a one or two hour time limit. Parking garages tend to be similarly priced, but you can generally stay for longer periods.
A bit out of the centre, coupon parking zones exist. In these zones, two hours of parking are free. Beyond that you must display a coupon to allow you to park for the entire day. These are available at convenience stores for $5 each. Enforcement of these zones stops at 6 pm.
On the weekend, metered car parking is free, with a two-hour time limit on Saturdays and no limits on Sundays.
Wellington has a lot of restaurants and cafes, in fact more cafes, bars and restaurants per head than New York City. Malaysian food is surprisingly popular and available in most areas. You can also get good Lebanese kebabs anywhere in the city. Fish and chips is the best value food and you usually get better quality in the suburbs.
Wellington is home to a range of insanely good coffee roasteries, which help the city's cafes produce, arguably, some of the best coffees in the world (consistently higher in quality than European cafes).
Local roasters include Cafe Laffare (recently sold for $25 million to an overseas company), Coffee Supreme, Havana, Mojo, and People's Coffee.
Below is a very small range from the extensive list of the Wellington Cafe scene:
Every suburb in Wellington has a good fish and chip shop. You just have to know which ones are the best.
And one mustn't forget the range of high class eateries that can rival anywhere in the world (especially given the abundance of fresh ingredients).
Wellington has a bustling nightlife, concentrated along Courtenay Place, one of the major streets running from the CBD. It runs through Te Aro and ends in Mt Victoria. The nightlife along this strip causes this street to have the highest population density in all of New Zealand on Friday and Saturday nights. In most establishments, drinks are remarkably affordable (~NZ$6), and cover charges are either nonexistent or minimal. In some of the better clubs reasonable dress standards apply, however in the day the mood is usually extremely causal, with even bare feet occasionally accepted (a common Kiwi choice on hotter days). Cuba Mall also features some cool and more alternative bars.
Away from Courtenay Place in the CBD district (Lambton Quay) there are many after work bars frequented by office workers, however this area becomes deserted in the later hours, and thus these establishments usually do not provide all night partying.