
Internationally, The Hague is probably best known as a place where many international courts are located. Among these are the International Court of Justice, which settles disputes between countries, the International Criminal Tribunal for the former Yugoslavia and since 2004 the controversial International Criminal Court. Thanks to these institutions, but also because of numerous European institutions, multinational headquarters (Shell) and embassies, The Hague has a distinct international character, one that is noticeably different from Amsterdam's. Rather than having many foreign tourists and fortune-seekers attracted by a reputation for excitement and liberalism, The Hague has more expatriates coming in because of employment at these institutions. Its foreign residents are thus generally better-paid and relatively older than Amsterdam's. Because of this and because of the fact that large part of the local economy is based the presence of countless government institutions, The Hague has a reputation as a wealthy, conservative and somewhat sedate city.
Indeed The Hague has none of the edginess and excitement of Amsterdam. As a city it provides well for its inhabitants, however, with large areas of green, 11 km of coastline, attractive shopping streets and an extensive cultural life. Rather than having canals like other Dutch cities, The Hague has streets and avenues which are just a little bit wider than those in the rest of the country, and instead of the typical Dutch renaissance 17th century step-gabled houses, it has 18th century mansions in grand baroque and classicist styles. Indeed, the city is considered by many as the most stately of the country. Other than in the city center, this is especially noticeable in the posh 19th century neighborhoods in between the city center and the dunes, with their splendid eclectic and art nouveau architecture.
As one goes away from the sea, however, the neighborhoods tend to become less well-off. The dividing line between good and bad areas is drawn by some at Laan van Meerdervoort, which runs parallel to the seaside. While this may not be entirely accurate, the city is quite unique in having such a clear geographical divide between rich and poor areas. The areas away from the sea have much less in the way of greenery. The one centrally located park in the poorer area, Zuiderpark, also used to contain the stadium of the local football team ADO Den Haag. Its supporters were among the most notorious hooligans of the country, the local low-class ADO fan or 'Haagse Harry' is as much a Hague stereotype as the posh old lady or the stuffy civil servant.
To tourists, The Hague offers great architecture, some of it picturesque, such as the medieval government complex of the Binnenhof, some grand and stately, like the mansions on Lange Voorhout. The museums in the city rank among the best in the country, and to food aficionados The Hague arguably offers the country's best Indonesian cuisine, due to large-scale immigration from this former Dutch colony. The city also offers good opportunities for outings, such as extensive green areas for walking and biclycling, the dunes and seaside which are just a few tram stops aways, and the quaint Dutch cities of Delft and Leiden which are just 15 minutes by train. In addition, The Hague offers a few attractions especially appealing to children, such as the miniature city of Madurodam and the 360 degree Omniversum cinema.
Returning travellers may find that parts of the city have changed beyond recognition. In the past 10 years, the city has been developing an extensive amount of modern architecture and it is still doing so. Notable recent buildings include the huge white city hall by American architect Richard Meier, a round shopping center next to the old town hall which has been aptly nicknamed the 'candy box', and a collection of post-modern, brick-clad office towers in between the city hall and the Central railway station, which provide new housing for a number of ministries. A major infrastructural development has been the construction of a Rem Koolhaas underground tram tunnel underneath Grote Marktstraat, which is used by regular trams and a new light-rail system linking The Hague with the neighboring cities of Zoetermeer and Rotterdam.
Major redevelopment is currently going on in the area around the Central railway station. Here, more high-rise towers up to 140 meters will be constructed, among which a giant building by Rem Koolhaas in the shape of a gate between the station and the city. The area should also house a still-to-be-founded museum of national history.
Parks and green areas for walking or bicycling.
The Statenkwartier area, located conveniently between the dunes and the city center, has leafy avenues and 19th century housing that is very popular with The Hague's large expatriate community. The area is nice for a walk as the 19th century mansions provide for great architectural diversity: all kinds of neo-styles are represented, but pay special attention to the examples of Art Nouveau architecture which abound here, as in the city center. Good shops, delicatessens and restaurants are to be found on Statenkwartier's main street, Frederik Hendriklaan, or 'Fred'. The area also has a number of tourist attractions which make it worth a visit, clustered around the Gemeentemuseum on Stadhouderslaan.
Although The Hague has its own airport, there are no commercial flights connecting there. Schiphol Airport is only 40 minutes away by train, though, and Rotterdam Airport is only 25 minutes by car.
The Hague has six train stations. Two of them cater to InterCity trains.
Den Haag CS (Centraal Station)
Den Haag CS is in the process of being renovated, and is the biggest train station of The Hague. It is located at walking distance from the city centre and from Malieveld.
It has connections to Amsterdam (45'), Schiphol Airport (30'), Utrecht (35'), Groningen (150') and many other cities throughout the Randstad and the Netherlands.
International connections to Cologne, Berlin, Frankfurt, Prague, Moscow, Basel and Copenhagen can be reached through Utrecht.
To get to the city centre of The Hague from the Central Station, leave through the left side entrance (where the trams are located) and walk through the glass passageway and straight ahead. You should reach the centre of town in less than 5 minutes.
Den Haag HS (Hollands Spoor)
Den Haag HS is located at only a 15 minute walk from Central Station.
It has connections by Thalys to Antwerp, Brussels and Paris, as well as domestic connections to Rotterdam, Eindhoven, Amsterdam, Leiden and Delft.
Trains southbound from Den Haag CS always pass through Hollands Spoor.
To get to the city centre, walk straight ahead from the main entrance and follow the road (Stationsweg) through Chinatown, and you'll end up right in the middle of town.
You are likely to use Central Station most often, as it is located more conveniently for access to the center of town, tourist attractions and shopping. It also has the best local public transport links, and is also safer at night than Hollands Spoor, which is located in a somewhat dodgy area of town. The only reason for using Hollands Spoor you might have is to catch the international trains to Antwerp, Brussels and Paris. In addition to southbound trains from Central, tram lines 9, 10, 15, 16 and 17 cover the short distance from Central Station to Hollands Spoor.
The Hague is connected by toll-free motorways to Amsterdam (A4 and A44), Rotterdam (A13) and Utrecht (A12). Access to the center of town is through the A12 motorway which penetrates the city center like a needle and ends on a large traffic junction just north of the historic center. Approaching the city from any of these motorways can take a long time during morning rush hour; in the evenings most of the traffic is headed out of town. On hot summer days, hundreds of thousands of people try to reach the Scheveningen (The Hague) beach by car, and huge traffic jams of up to 50 km long may occur, causing traffic delays of up to several hours. On such days, consider taking a train. A park and ride facility, P+R Hoornwijck, opened in 2008 on the Laan van Hoornwijck by the Ypenburg interchange. Motorists can easily reach it from the A4 (Exit 9) and A13 (Exit 7).
The Hague has an efficient city wide system of trams and buses, running mostly on free tracks allowing for a fairly speedy ride. HTM [2] runs the public transport system in The Hague and some of the surrounding area. From Central Station and Hollands Spoor the entire city can be reached with between zero and two transfers; major attractions do not require transfers.
Fares are paid using the strippenkaart system as everywhere else in the country. Strippenkaarten containing 15 strips are bought in advance; travellers are expected to validate one strip plus one extra for every zone they travel through on their trip. Layovers are permitted. The zones are indicated on route maps. Trips within the city center require two strips; trips to the Statenkwartier area and to Scheveningen require three. When travelling on trams, validate your ticket on the on-board machines. On buses, just tell the driver where you need to go and he will validate the appropriate number of strips. It is possible to travel together: just validate the same amount of strips twice.
If this all sounds too complicated to you, day tickets are available as well at 6.00 euro, and bus and tram drivers sell single tickets, day returns and day tickets as well. As opposed to the nationwide strippenkaart, these are only valid in The Hague, and they are all more expensive than the strippenkaart, which should cost you the equivalent of 0.90 euro per town center trip. Tickets can be bought from the HTM offices at Central Station and Hollands Spoor as well as from the 'Kiosk' stands at those stations. In town tobacconists, book shops, supermarkets and tourist office usually sell them, as does the HTM shop at Wagenstraat 35.
Hollands Spoor has trams stopping in the front of its main entrance. Central has most trams on the south side (Rijnstraat), but the main lines (2, 3 and 6) stop on platforms crossing the main station hall at level 1. Buses are on the bus platform, above the railway tracks. Central Station is currently (2008, almost finished) undergoing major reconstruction work which may make some connections hard to find. Just ask if you can't find your tram or bus.
Note: You can enter trams without having a valid ticket. Risks are fairly low of getting caught, as conductors only enter trams very occasionally. The official fine is 35 euro plus the price of the ticket though, but in practice the conductors will sometimes let you just buy your ticket at the driver. Many kids just sneak off the tram at the first stop when conductors enter the tram, as stops are usually fairly close to each other. In the most recent times however, security personnel and HTM personnel have the orders of checking more thoroughly, especially in the City Centre. This policy covers almost all tramlines. (in short: on all tramways between the major trainstations). When caught, one can be transferred to police custody and be forced to go through an arrest procedure. It is not adviced anymore to try to skip payment.
The Hague is a very compact city, you can easily navigate the centre by foot.
Department stores
Shopping streets and areas
Just as Indian restaurants abound in the UK, the Netherlands has an excellent tradition in Indonesian and colonial Dutch-Indies cuisine. After Indonesia became independent from the Netherlands in 1945, the country received a large number of former colonials from Dutch and mixed descent who had been forced to leave the newly independent colony. The Hague received a relatively large number of these people and is still a center of the Dutch-Indonesian community.
Indonesian, city center:
Indonesian, out of the center:
Other:
During summer, the "Grote markt" becomes a big open air terrace, great for people watching!