Tours

Marrakech can make a good base for exploring the High Atlas or for organizing one to four day Sahara treks.

• Ciel d'Afrique. [11] Take a relaxing flight up in the sky in a hot air balloon. The views of Marrakesh are breath taking. Fly over the wide open tranquil deserts and the small local villages while traveling through the sky in a relaxed and peaceful manner. This fantastic activity is available to any one with a sense of adventure and an interest in the magnificent culture that Morocco has to offer. An opportunity not to be missed. Marrakesh, southern. Children-friendly.

• Sahara Tours, Rue Bam Marme et Mouahidine, 044 42-79-77, (Fax: 044 42-79-72). While there are countless agencies on Ave Mohammed V that will organize such tours for those seeking the comfort of an air-conditioned 4x4 and have money to spare, budget travelers may want to check out this Marrakech stalwart.

• Hostel Marrakech Adventures in Morocco [12] offers information and secure reservations for many tours and excursions departing from Marrakech. Included in the range of tours available are day trips to Essouaira, Imlil, the Ouzoud cascades and 2, 3 and 4 day tours to the desert (including Zagora and merzouga). Other options include: The impressive 110 meter waterfall, the Cascades d'Ouzoud, are about 160km away and are well worth a day trip visiting.

• Berber Adventures [13] offers travelers the chance to visit Berber villages and experience their life and culture. Single or multi-day cultural excursions in the High Atlas mountains are available.

• Best of Morocco [14] offers custom-made holidays combining higher-end accommodation in Marrakech with excursions to the Atlas mountains, Land Rover safaris, and balloon flights.

Hammams

There are two types of Hammam across Morocco.

The first is the "tourist" Hammam, where you can go and be pampered and scrubbed by an experienced staff member. These usually, as they are promoted only to tourists, are the more expensive option with pricing usually around 150 Dirham for a hammam. They can not be technically referred to as a propper hammam, but they are nonetheless enjoyable, especially for the timid. Your hotel can recommend a good one.

The second option is to visit a "popular" Hammam. Popular Hammams are the places where the locals go. Ask the staff at your hotel where they would go.

At the popular hammams, you do it all yourself. To make the most of a popular hammam, you need to take a scrubbing mitten (available cheap in the Souks), a towel, and some extra underwear (otherwise, you will be going home without any, as it will be sopping wet). Popular hammams are often only identified by tiles around a door and entranceway. If you do not speak French or Arabic, it could be a daunting, or at least very memorable, experience. Men & women have either separate session times or separate Hammams.

Nudity in a popular hammam is strictly forbidden for men, so be prepared to wear your underwear or a bathing suit. For women, you'll see some wearing underwear and some nude.

Whilst in a popular hammam, you may be offered help and a massage from another person. It is essential to remember that this massage is nothing but a massage, with no other intentions. Indeed sexual contact or presumption of sexual contact does not occur in these places. If you accept a massage, be prepared to return the favor.

Normal entrance prices for a popular hammam are 7-15dh, a scrub will cost around 30dh, and a massage another 30dh.

Medina

• Les Bains de Marrakech, 2 Derb Sedra, Bab Agnaou (same building as Riad Mehdi), +212-24-38-14-28,[15]. Tourists-oriented in good sense: couples can have hammam together in a private room. Extensive list of massages and spa treatments from 30min to a full day. Reception and attendants are proficient in speaking English, however, the scrubbing and massage personnel speak only very basic vocabulary.

While not considered as well preserved as other Moroccan cities such as Fez, Marrakech offers several historical and architectural sites as well as some interesting museums.

• Djemma El Fna is the highlight of any Marrakech night. Musicians, dancers, and story tellers pack this square at the heart of the medina, filling it with a cacophony of drum beats and excited shouts. Scores of stalls sell a wide array of Moroccan fare (see the Eat section) and you will almost certainly be accosted by women wanting to give you a henna tattoo. Enjoy the various shows, but be prepared to give some Dirhams to watch. By day it is largley filled with snake charmers and people with monkeys, as well as some of the more common stalls.

• The souks (suuqs), or markets of Marrakech, just adjacent to Place Jema El Fna, is where you can buy most anything. From spices to shoes, jalabas to kaftans, tea pots to tagines and much, much more. Undoubtedly, being a foreigner means you will end up paying higher prices than a native would, but be sure to bargain nonetheless. The sellers here are much less aggressive than say, Egypt or Turkey, so have fun!

• Koutoubia mosque, adjacent to Djemma El Fna is named after the booksellers market that used to be located here. It is said that the minaret of the Koutoubia mosque is to Marrakech as the Eiffel Tower is to Paris. The minaret is visible from Gueliz which is connected to the Medina by Avenue Mohammed V. At night, the mosque is beautifully lit.

• Saadian Tombs were not discovered until the beginning of the 20th century. They have been preserved just like they were during the glory days of the Saadian rulers. Unlike the El Badi Palace, they were not destroyed-probably for superstitious reasons. The entrance was only blocked so they remained untouched for hundreds of years. Inside you will find an overload of Zelij (Morrocan tiles) and some beautiful decoration. It does not take a lot of time to explore, but it is definitely worth the visit. While here, look for the tombs of Jews and Christians; they are noted by their different markings and direction of the tomb.

• Majorelle Gardens Gueliz has an entrance fee of 30 Dirhams and is more expensive than other attractions. However, it provides an excellent respite from the hustle and bustle of the city streets. The park boasts a collection of plants from across the globe, including what seems like every cactus species on the planet. Get here early to avoid the crowds. Inside the gardens is also the Museum of Islamic Art, for which an additional entrance fee is charged.

• Dar Si Saïd Museum, on Rue Riad Zitoun Jdid, is a museum 5 minutes away from Djemma El Fna. Set in an old palace, it houses many different artifacts from Morocco through the ages, such as wood carvings, musical instruments, and weapons. It is dedicated to the Moroccan craft industry of wood, gathering a very beautiful collection of popular art: carpets, clothing, pottery and ceramics. All these objects are regional, coming from Marrakech and all the south, especially from Tensift, High Atlas, Soussthe, Anti Atlas, Bani, and Tafilal.

• Ben Youssef Madrassa is one of the largest Madrassa's in the North Africa. It is a school attached to the Ben Youssef Mosque and is home to beautiful art and architecture.

• El Bahia palace is an ornate and beautiful palace, popular with guided tours and stray cats. The palace is well worth a visit and gives a great impression of what it must have been like to be a 19th century nobleman in Morocco. There is a nice garden with banana flowers, tranquil courtyards, and other lovely plants. Admission is 10dh.

• El Badi palace is a palace now in ruins and inhabited by storks and stray cats. There are some underground passageways to explore. Admission is 10dh. The view from the terrace is majestic.

By air

Marrakech-Menara Airport (IATA: RAK), Tel: +212 (0)4 444 7865 [2]. This international airport is located about 6km (4 mi) and 10-15 minutes away from the city by taxi. Plenty of low cost companies now fly to Marrakech. Some companies fly to Casablanca additionally where a plane change for the 45 minute flight to Marrakech can be made.

The best way, if you do not have too much luggage, is to take a new bus (line 19) that goes over the main points of the City (Place Djemaa L'Fna, Bus station, Gueliz, hotels...). It costs 20DH one way, 30 DH with return included. You avoid one of a traveller's worst moments, i.e., the hassle of taxi drivers when you arrive in a new country.

If going from airport by petit taxi, make sure to have the driver use his meter or, better yet, agree on the price beforehand. As you exit the airport terminal, there is a sign which actually gives you an idea of how much the taxi ride should cost. As to whether you can convince or bargain with the driver to use these prices is another matter however. It depends on the number of taxis and potential passengers around. Essentially, you should pay no more than 60 dirham from the airport to the centre of the city during the day and 90 dirham at night for a petit taxi. The petit taxi's are hatchbacks and generally they take a lower price than the larger grand taxi's. If you press the drivers, these prices are easily obtainable. In this event, don't pay more than 100 dirham in the daytime and 150 at night.

If you are travelling from the airport to somewhere further afield (e.g. Essaouria), your hotel or guest house may be able to arrange a grand taxi to pick you up at the airport and charge a fixed price for the journey. Grands taxis are generally more expensive than petits taxis, but more comfortable especially when you have luggage. It also avoids hassle, as it's not always easy to haggle with a taxi driver after staggering off a long plane ride half-asleep.

As a guide for using taxi services in Morocco, you should approach the taxi, tell the driver where you want to go, and how much you will pay. If the driver doesn't accept, just move on to the next driver.

Several international rental car companies are based at the airport as well.

You can fly from several European cities direct to Marrakech. Atlas Blue[3] which is an offshoot of Royal Air Maroc [4]. British Airways [5] no longer flies from London Heathrow and London Gatwick to Marrakech. Easyjet [6] began to fly to Marrakech from Madrid and begin flying from Gatwick airport in the UK in July 2006.

German airline TUI[7] flies to Marrakech from five cities in Germany.

Ryanair announced in August 2006 that they will begin direct flights from London Luton to Marrakech. Ryanair also flys from Frankfurt Hahn (sometimes for under £40 return) and Girona (Barcelona) to Marrakech. Thomsonfly travel from Manchester for under £60.

Royal Air Morocco, 197 boulevard Mohamed V, Tel: 43 62 05 Al Hoceima, and Tangier.

Money exchange in the airport

The Arrivals hall at Terminal 2 has a money changing outlet and an ATM. Terminal 1 has two money changing outlets in the Arrivals hall and one in Departures. So if you find the money changing outlets are closed when you arrive, it's worth taking the short walk across the car park to the other terminal. Beware as some of the ATM's work only in French and may ask odd questions (i.e. account type). If your card is taken at the ATM tell airport security and they can help you get it back.

By train

Train connections are available from the train station, Avenue Hassan II, Tel: 44 77 68 [9] Casablanca and Rabat and Tangier connect with most domestic rail destinations in the country. There is a train hourly all day. First and second class differ in the seating comfort and with the number of people. Seats are not reserved in second class, but since Marrakech is the first station, you'll find a place if you arrive with time to the station.

Trains arrive from Casablanca around every two hours and regularly from other destinations like Rabat. The train station is located in the recently developed ville nouvelle. Frequent local buses leave from just across the street into the medina and modern tourist area. Petit taxi drivers will also be quick to offer their service, but pay no more than Dh 10 - 15 for this short ride during the daytime up until 8pm. After this time, taxi drivers will charge the daytime rate plus 50%.

For those wishing to travel by train from Tangier, the cost from Tangier to Marrakech is currently 180 Dirham 2nd class and 310 dirham 1st class. The journey is definitely worthwhile as a way to see Morocco, so try and do this journey by day. It's about a 10 hour journey.

During the daytime, you will need to change trains for a connection halfway through the journey creating a welcome break for about 30 minutes. The night trains which leave for Marrakech from Tangier travel straight through to Marrakech without the need for a connection.

The night trains do have sleeper cars on board, though you will need to pay extra for these if you want a bed (around 350 dirhams).

There is currently no train line further south than Marrakech in Morocco.

Some advice for the train journey would be to stock up on some bread, eggs, and cheese in advance and remember to bring plenty to offer to share with locals in your carriage - this is received well and will result in a return offer and lots of conversation.

Additionally, there is a snack trolley which does the rounds on the train about once per hour serving coffee, cappucino, tea, sandwiches, and chocolate snacks. Be aware you will pay tourist prices, though in the end the difference is not much.

By bus

There are many long distance bus companies operating within Morocco which serve Marrakech and other cities.

The recommended bus companies for tourists are CTM and Supratours. Other companies do exist, though these two companies are usually your safest options.

Most ALSA (local destination bus company) and private bus lines arrive at the long distance bus station near Bab Doukkala, a 20 minute walk (Dh 15 - 20 by petit taxi) from Jema el-Fna. Supratours and Eurolines buses operate from here. It's the place to take the buses from the small companies, that go directly to small destinations.

From the long distance bus station, CTM and private bus companies service destinations such as to Safi, Casablanca, El Jadida, Essaouira, Fez, Meknes, Ouarzazate, Rabat, and Taroudant. Taxi touts will often gather in the bus station to convince you that a bus to your destination is 'full' and to steer you into a grand taxi, and will attempt to sell you goods as your taxi is prepared. This can be difficult if there is nobody manning the ticket desks, and the best option is to walk out of the station to the coaches - a ticket can usually be purchased from a conductor onboard.

CTM has another small station at the Gueliz on Zerktouni street. It's better to take the buses there, because you can buy the tickets in advance. Besides, the CTM's offices there are better and there's no people trying to push you to their bus company.

By taxi

If you want to save time or if you want to go in private. The best way is the big bus. You will find them throughout the city, the airport, they make you discover the city.

Once in the medina, everything can be seen on foot, though you'll be doing a lot of walking. For exploring more of the city, buses and petits taxis are plentiful. Almost all buses stop at Jema El Fna and Place Youssef Ben Tachfine and fares range from Dh 2 to Dh 5 depending on the distance. Important municipal bus lines are:

• No 1 - Towards Gueliz
• No 8 - Stops at the central train station
• No 10 - Stops at the long distance bus station
• No 11 - Will drop you off at the gardens of Menara

An alternative and romantic way to travel is by caleche - pronounced kalesh - a small horse-drawn carriage. They can be hired at Square de Foucauld (the small park at the bottom of Djemma El Fna). It's wise to agree on a price before setting off. As a guide price, you should pay around 80 Dirham per hour, per carriage.

There is an open-topped City Sightseeing bus that will take you around the outskirts of the city, with commentary provided via headphones (supplied with your ticket) in any of 8 different languages. The best place to catch it is from the coach stops by Square de Foucauld. Tickets cost 130 Dh each and are valid for 24 hours from the time of issue, no matter how many times you get on or off. However, check the timetable carefully, as the buses can stop running earlier than you might think.

Along with the major souk adjacent to the Djemaa el Fna, there are a plethora of smaller souks throughout the city where any number of products can be bargained for. Keep an eye out for a wide array of hand-crafted candle-holding lanterns, as well as spectacular displays of local spices.

Marrakech is home to a large tanning industry, and leather goods of high quality can be bought here cheaply. Check out camel leather items especially - jackets, round poufs, and handbags.

Also of interest would be items made of the local cactus silk, which is really rayon a natural fiber made of plant cellelose and produced in Morocco. Rayon holds the chemical dyes well which accounts for the vibrant range of true colors (natural dyes cannot produce a "true"color). On offer are scarves, handbags, tablecloths, bedspreads and throws in stunning colors. Some merchants try to charge a premium price for this "cactus silk".

Be sure to wander round the potters' souk, and look for brightly coloured platters and bowls, as well as tagines in all sizes

Lovely cashmire shawls can also be had for less than a fiver with a little bargaining.

If you cannot stand the the bargaining, there's two government run shops where you can buy handicrafts at fixed prices. Look for boutique d'artisans. One is located near Djemaa el Fna while the other one is in the ville nouvelle.

An option to explore the souks in a more tranquil way is to go during the Friday prayer. Although some shops will be closed, most stay open and are significantly less crowded than at other times.

Bargaining

Remember that bargaining in the souks is expected. It is not really possible to give an accurate indication of how much to start the bargaining at in relation to the initial asking price, but a general idea would be to aim for approximately 50% off. Prices are set on a daily, even, hourly basis, depending on how much has been sold on a given day (or period of hours), while also reflecting the vendor's personal estimation of the potential client. The souks are often a good reflection of the basic economic principles of supply and demand, particularly with regard to the demand side. If a lot of products have been sold by a particular merchant he/she will raise the price, and may refuse to sell any more products for the rest of that day (or for days) unless the price is much higher than usual. If there are many tourists around prices go higher and bargaining even small amounts off the asking price becomes quite difficult. In addition, the seller will generally inspect the client, whose dress and possessions (particularly if the potential client sports an expensive Swiss watch, camera, tourist trinkets of obvious poor quality etc) are usually the main indication of how high the price may be set above the usual. However, the potential client's attitude is also taken into consideration.

Taking all this and other factors into account (such as the time of day, day of the week, season, etc.), initial prices may be up to 50 times or more in excess of normal prices, especially for more expensive items, such as carpets. Carpets, however, are a very specialized item and it is necessary to have at least a cursory understanding of production techniques and qualities. If possible an ability to distinguish between hand-made and machine-made carpets, hand-dyes, and the like is helpful to avoid being utterly duped. Western visitors would be surprised, for instance, how beautiful a carpet can be appropriated by a skillful negotiator inside of 50 euros.

Bargaining is an enjoyable experience for most vendors and they prefer clients that don't appear hurried and are willing to take the time to negotiate. It is most often actually necessary to give reasons why you believe the price should be lower. The reasons you might give are limited only by your imagination and often lead to some very entertaining discussions. Common reasons may include: the price of the item elsewhere, the item not being exactly what you are after, the fact that you have purchased other items from the stall/store, that you have built a rapport with the vendor after discussing football and so forth. On the other hand, if there is little movement in the price after some time, the best advice is to begin leaving, this often has the result of kick-starting the bidding anew, and if not, it is likely that the merchant is actually unwilling to go further below a given price, however absurd. In fact, the best general advice is simply to go to several merchants selling similar products and weigh their collective prices and attitudes. Revisiting a merchant at a later time may or may not allow you to bargain a given product more effectively. In one respect, to return puts the ball back in the vendor's court, as it is obvious that he/she has the product you want at the closest price. In another respect, if some time has passed between visits, business has been slow in the interim, and your return to the store is interpreted as a gesture of fidelity, the price may miraculously plummet. Many of the vendors can be very charming themselves and a little charm may also go a long way. Nevertheless, this should not entail conceding to a vendor at an unacceptable price. That, of course, would defeat the point. Rather, charm is just another tactic that may or may not be effective in reducing the price of a given item.

It is also important to show a genuine interest for the workmanship of the product for sale, no matter disinterested you may actually be in what you are buying. This does not, however, mean that you should appear over-enthusiastic, as this will encourage the vendor to hold his or her price. Rather, it is important to project a critical appreciation for each article/object. Any defects are either unacceptable or a further opportunity to bargain the price down.

You should take caution to never begin bidding for unwanted items or to give the vendor a price you are unwilling or unable (with cash on hand) to pay. Try to avoid paying by credit card at all costs. In the event you do pay by credit card, never let it out of your sight and demand as many receipts as possible. There is typically a credit card carbon copy and an official shop receipt.

Never tell a vendor where you are staying and 'never tell a vendor how much you paid for any other purchases. Just say you got a good price and you want a good price from him or her too. And, above all, never be afraid to say 'No'.

It must also be said that, as for us buyers, not all sellers are actually very good at what they do. A vendor that is completely disinterested or even aggressive is unlikely to give a good price. Move on.

All in all, a good negotiation can be a fun experience. Also remember that Marrakech is the only place visited by such a large quantity of tourists, so prices can be higher than elsewhere, although not necessarily so. If at all possible, look first at the prices and qualities of items in other cities by way of comparison.

Otherwise, if you buy sweet cakes, avoid buying them in the Magasins where the scale is hidden. In one of the main streets of the Medina, there are two that often take advantages from that.

The main Carlie at Djemma El Fna is definitely worth a visit and the food is priced on menus. In little back streets the ambiance is more quiet, although the price is higher and the quality may vary a lot. Touts for Djemma huts can be among the most persistent in Marrakech. Don't make them any promises you don't intend on keeping or they'll get mean and call you a liar. The line 'we already ate' seems to work well to get them to stop.

In the square itself there are some locals such as:

• Chez Chegrouni, Tagine 35 DH, Harira 15 DH. Near the main entrance to the market. Maybe the best cheap restaurant in the square. Their vegetarian couscous (30dh) is supposedly the only true vegetarian couscous in town; it's also bland but they give you plenty of it. Prices go up if you sit on the terrace. Usually packed full of good-time tourists.

• Cafe Alhamra. On the edge of the square, it serves up salads, pizza, and pasta as well as a tagine of the day. Their rooftop is a good place to have a late night coffee and pastry while watching the events in the square below.

• Cafe Agrana. On the edge of Djemma El Fna. Try the pastilla - a sweet/savory pie (either chicken or, for the adventurous, pigeon) that melts in your mouth.

• La Makarechi is opposite the market and adjacent to the newspaper stand. With two main courses and wine running at around 300 Dh, this is one of the poshest restaurants in the square. The food is not necessarily better than elsewhere, but it is one of the few restaurants that serve alcohol. It also has a completely enclosed upstairs terrace, which is ideal for views of the square when the weather is bad.

• Chez El Bahia is 50m away from Djemma El Fna on Rue Riad Zitoune (the street that starts at Wafa Restaurant). It has excellent and well priced food in a quiet place. Try the chicken and olives tajine and prune, almonds, and mutton tajine for about 45 Dh each. Try also the Moroccan salad while they cook the rest of the food.

• Cafe Mabrouk (off Jma el-Fna) serves the same thing as everywhere else in a little courtyard or terrace. Bland, hard pizzas, 35 dh.

Take care eating the offered food on the main market place Djemma El Fna and the other cheap restaurants. Many of the dishes, including goat heads and bowls of local snails (hot and tasty) may seem too adventurous for the Western palate, but the main problems are salads, which can cause diarrhea.

Vegetarians will find that there are few options outside the ubiquitous Tagine avec Legumes.

For more upscale eateries (and especially for non-Moroccan cuisine) you generally must go outside the Medina to Ville Nouvelle. However, Diaffa (Rue Jbel El Akhdar just off Av. Mohammed V, across from Club Med), an upscale restaurant in one of the oldest buildings in the Medina, offers excellent Moroccan cuisine in an ambiance that recalls the Orient at the height of its magic and glory. The food, building (whether the tables around the central courtyard and fountain or the second-level balcony), and tactful and tasteful entertainment are all not to be missed.

How to eat (well) in the Djemma El Fna

If you want to eat well in Marrakech, do what the locals do and eat at the food stalls in the Place. It is a common misconception that these stalls are here for the tourists. Actually, they have been in existence long before Marrakech became a tourist destination. All of the stalls can be regarded as perfectly safe to eat at. They are strictly licensed and controlled by the government, especially now as it is a popular destination for tourists.

Some tips:

• There is no such thing as a "touristy food stall" in the Djemaa.
• Prices tend to vary a little. Depending upon how hungry you are, you can pay anything from 10 Dirham for a Bread filled with freshly grilled sausages or perhaps a bowl of Harira soup to 100 Dirham for a full three course meal with salad, bread, starter, main course, and tea.
• Try harira (great soup, good for veggies) and the fried aubergines. Don't be afraid! Try the lamb head: it's really tasty. Also, give a chance to the "bull stew" (beef stew) on the same stalls.
• Don't miss the tea! There is a row of Tea sellers along the front of the food stalls who each sell tea for 1.5dh each. Most of the tea at these stalls is actually Ginseng tea with Cinnamon and Ginger... most delicious and welcoming.
• All food stalls at Djemma El Fna display the price on the menus making it less likely you'll be overcharged, but many will bring starters to you without asking, then charge for them at the end.
• Drinks are rarely on the menu so it is better to ask the price of them before ordering, as they can often be comparatively high.

Hot mint tea with large amounts of sugar is delicious and served in all restaurants and cafes.

Street vendors offer fresh orange juice (jus d'Orange) by the glass for 3 Dh. Try it with a dash of salt like the locals, but be wary of vendors who try and water the juice down with tap water. Also, pay attention when you buy as they offer 2 types of orange...the blood orange juice costs 10 Dirham per glass and a misunderstanding on what you want to drink could occur.

Wine and beer will rarely be found outside of restaurants catering to tourists.

However, Hotel Tazi in the Medina of Marrakech does have a public bar, serving beer and wine at not too expensive prices. For a slightly unusual experience, you could visit the Chesterfield Pub in Hotel Nassil, 115 Avenue Mohammed V. Apparently an 'English pub' it serves Moroccan lager and has an outside pool in a courtyard with palm trees (not an entirely English experience!) Much less touristy than it sounds (with a mainly local clientele) it serves a decent pint.