• A whole grand taxi from Marrakech runs about 600dh - 800dh, or 90dh per place if you take taxi Blue.

• Supratours runs buses from the Marrakech train station into the Essaouira Supratours station, just down the street from the beach.

• Catch a CTM bus from Marrakech's bus station (or the CTM Offices in the Gueliz, on Zerktouni street) for 65dh (plus 5dh per stowed luggage). The trip takes 3.5 hours. There is no toilet on the bus, but it does make one local stop mid-journey, where there are toilets. Book your tickets from the CTM Offices the day before as they do sell out fast.

The walled centre of town is pedestrianised.

Essaouira's craftsmen are renowned for their woodwork and lacquerware. Intricately inlaid boxes, chessboards and curios can be found for good prices in the city's hundreds of shops; however, beware that extensive deforestation is taking place in the area due to these woods not being replanted. Artwork of all kinds can be had here.

Although Essaouira is on the sea, fish are quite expensive. Fishermen sell their catch through market hall and you can get it cooked in small stands nearby. Prices are clearly marked per weight on the large pricing board at the end of the fish market stalls, but this seems to make little difference to the chances of being hustled. Carefully evaluate how much you are being charged. A cheaper option is to buy Harira (a spicy soup) for 2-5DH or sandwich (i.e. at Blue fasade for 10-20DH, walking at the street from fish stands to the medina). There are many reasonable restaurants and cafes on the main streets and squares. Upscale restaurants worth a mention are Taros (2, rue de la Sqala Tel: 044 47 64 07) which combines a French-Moroccan restaurant, a gallery and a terrace bar with live local music and "5" (rue Youssef el fassi) for its elegant ex-pat vibe.

• La triskalla, Rue Touahen (in the Medina), [2]. Restaurant (excellent Vegetarian food and Fish), Creperie, Galerie. Cosy environment in an old Riad, friendly service. Free internet for customers (WiFi + PC available). between 20 and 60dh per meal.  edit

• Patisserie Driss - close to the main square is a great place for cakes and snacks

• Fish Market, Essaouira local market. If you are a fish enthusiast, you cannot miss the food in the market. Buy your fish (cheap, shirmps are 50dh/kilo, sardines 5dh/6, etc) take it to the small kitchen / restaurant and let them cook it for you. They add salad, olives and bread for 25dh. Really fun, cheap and good food! (The food here is NOT cheap - see cautionary tale above) buy the fish + 25dh for the baking.  edit

• La decouverte, 8 bis, rue Houmman el Fatouaki, ☎ 024 47 31 58, [3]. If you are tired of tagines, dissapointed by italian-moroccan pasta, give La Decouverte a try. A french couple cooks with moroccan ingredients, moroccan like recipes but with french hand. Nice atmosphere, correct prices. Go for it mains 50dh - 80dh.  edit

• La Licorne, 26 rue scala, ☎ 024 47 36 26 (contact@lalicorne-essaouira.com, fax: 024 47 59 71), [4]. A great place in Essaouira for a romantic diner, or between friends, and for all of you who like to enjoy Moroccan dishes along with one of the country's finest wine. mains 160dh.  edit

Mint tea is available for about 6DH all over the town. Some of the hotels have licensed bars, but it's hard to beat the terrace bar of the Taros (2 Rue de la Sqala) for its view over the lively Place Moulay el Hassan and the harbour.