• The medina is the focal point of interest for most visitors to Chefchaouen. Walking around the town with its whitewashed walls, originally decorated in this style by Jewish immigrants, can be a nice change to the hustle and bustle of the cities of Marrakech, Rabat, and Fez.

• The waterfall to the east of the medina is a meeting point for local residents who come to cool off, chat and do their laundry. The café nearby is rather expensive, however it's a nice change from the main square.

• The ruins of an old mosque, on a hill behind the waterfall, overlook the medina and its crumbling tower offers great views of the town.

The main bus station is a fifteen minute walk from the medina. There are usually a couple of petit taxis waiting for a customer at the entry. Don't pay more than Dh 10 to get to the medina. If it is hot, or, as is very likely, you have just endured a long coach drive to the town, you should seriously consider climbing into one of these taxis. With a heavy backpack, the walk up to the hotels of the town can be fairly strenuous!

There are plenty of petit taxis to ferry you around the outer town (they are not metered, agree on a price before you start your trip), but most of the town is walkable, and the medina can only be traversed on foot.

• Chaouen Rural, [1]. Organizes interesting trips to the rural part of the Chaouen province, customized according to your interests. If you're interested in food they may send you to El Bellouta where you'll have a few meals with a local family.  edit

All the usuals are on offer in the medina — carpets, leatherwares, spices, metal wares, etc. If you're a seasoned bargainer you can probably get better prices in Fes or Marrakech, but Chefchaouen is undoubtedly a more pleasant place to shop. You'll also find plenty of hippie-wear aimed at budget travelers and marijuana tourists.

Leather

Chaouen is particularly renowned for leather artisans, and there are 4 or 5 workshops dotted through the town, whose goods you can find at many of the local stores and in the larger northern cities. Many of the craftsmen in Fes and Tetouan served their apprenticeships here. The choice in local stores is often limited to bags and purses, so if you're up for it take advantage of the workshops where you can tweak a standard design or come up with something entirely your own, even moving beyond traditional leather into snake, crocodile, lizard and more. They can make pretty much anything, from guitar straps and tobacco pouches, to handbags and jackets. It can take a couple of days to make the more complex designs, so head there on your first day, or have it shipped home (£6 within Europe).

• Hassan's Workshop, (In the eastern medina, between the old olive tree and the waterfall), ☎ +212 065 00717. 9-6ish. Run by a tremendously approachable man called Hassan, it can be found towards the eastern end of the medina, between the old olive tree and the waterfall. Once you're in the vicinity, just ask for "El Taller de Hassan" and you'll be pointed in the right direction (or call ahead). He speaks fluent Spanish and good English & French, and is totally amenable to any peculiarities or requests you might have. He doesn't look for sales out of his workshop, as he makes good trade through the various local stores and a few overseas bulk buyers, but he enjoys making one-off's, which makes for wonderful craftsmanship, great prices and no hassle. Variable prices.  edit

The local specialty is baissara, but you'll also find the usual staples such as tajines (vegetable stew with goat or sheep) and fish tagras. The region is also well known for olives and olive oil.

• Granada, (2 blocks up from the main square).  edit

• Chez Chouen, (opposite Granada). Also do a great fish tajine, and a shrimp tajine that's more Spanish than Moroccan, but great nonetheless.  edit

Alcohol is not readily available. Mint tea is prevalent.