Hammam

• Solidarite Feminine, 4, rue Ahmed Chowki, Palmier, ☎ 022-99-23-94. This is not only an excellent activity for travellers but also an initiative that is helping single mothers and creating social change in Morocco. An organization called Solidarité Féminine runs a traditional Hammam and health center which is not only one of the cleanest and most attractive in Casablanca but also provides valuable job training for single mothers who would otherwise be illiterate, jobless and who face all kinds of discrimination in the Muslim and Berber cultures that exist here. This Hammam offers excellent prices and all the funds raised go to support the programs of the organization which is truly helping to change Moroccan society. This is a local initiative, founded and run by Moroccans and is an excellent opportunity for tourists to support local development and have an excellent experience at the Hammam.  edit

• The King Hassan II Mosque, a relatively recent mosque. Its one of the largest in the world and the largest in Morocco, and has the tallest minaret on the planet. It is one of the two main mosques in Morocco open to non-muslims. Beautiful interior complete with water features, a roof that opens to the sky, a HUGE hammam in the basement (not in use), and beautiful tile work. Worth a trip to the city.

• Old Medina, there is a small traditional walled town in the north of Casablanca. If you are in town it may be worth a visit, but it's nothing compared to the glories of Fes or Marrakesh.

• The Corniche, is a neighborhood on the ocean to the west of the Hassan II mosque. Decades ago, it was a thriving resort area - hotels line the ocean side of the Boulevard de la Corniche, and nightclubs line the other side. Most look like they've seen better days, but it's almost disorienting in how much it resembles the New Jersey Shore. Along the Boulevard de l'Ocean Atlantique are many newer, fancier hotels. The Corniche is also home to every western fast food chain available - 2 McDonalds, a KFC, and a Pizza Hut. A new western-style movie theatre can also be found here, but the best option is to walk up and down the street, resting at one of the many ocean-view cafes.

• The Shrine of Sidi Abderrahman is built on a rock off shore, well past The Corniche, and is only accesible at low tide. The shrine itself is off-limits to non-muslims, but visitors are permitted to explore the tiny, medina-like neighborhood that has sprung up around it. A better bet is to walk to it along the beach and catch a view of the beautiful white walls before catching a cab to less remote areas.

By plane

Mohammed V Int'l Airport (IATA: CMN) is the busiest gateway to the country and is well-connected to Europe. Royal Air Maroc flies to New York JFK, many cities in Europe, and has connecting flights to African countries such as NIgeria, Central African Republic, Senegal, and others.

By train

Casablanca Voyagers station serves trains to Fes, Marrakech, Tangier with stops in between. The trains are comfortable, the stations easy to navigate, and boards display the time of departure/ arrival. Be sure to check the schedule for express trains; for instance, the train that leaves Casablanca at 0705 daily takes 2 hours less to reach Fes (3 instead of 5 hours.)

Trains are divided into first- and second-class compartments; the first-class ones generally cost an extra 50%, but have more room and guarantee a seat. Boarding second-class compartments during peak hours may mean that you have to stand until a seat opens up.

By car

By bus

By boat

A government department does put out an exhaustive map of Casablanca in book form called Carte Guide de Casablanca that you may be able to find in bookstores or online; in all likelihood, though, it isn't necessary. Taxi drivers know how to get to every single place in every single guide book, even if you tell them just "the restaurant on Blvd. Hassan II." Other than that, Casablanca is like any other European city: the streets (mostly) have signs, and passersby are extremely helpful in French or Arabic and, more rarely, Spanish or English. The Medina is, as are all medinas, hard to navigate, but it's so small that no matter how blindly you wander into it, you're never more than ten minutes from an exit.

Casablanca is one of the least interesting places to shop in all of Morocco. Around the old Medina it's easy to find places selling traditional Moroccan goods, such as tagines, pottery, leather goods, hookahs, and a whole spectrum of geegaws, but it's all for the tourists. Much better to wait until you're in Fes and can bargain with someone who sells things to Moroccans and tourists alike. That said, the Maarif neighborhood (near the twin center) has many name-brand European and American fashion chains, such as Zara. Designer glasses, leather shoes, and "genuine" belts, bags, and shirts can be had at bargain prices.

The Derb Ghraleef neighborhood has a large souq that is not for the faint of heart. A cluster of small shanties, each one is loaded with "genuine" mobile phones, "genuine" watches, and "genuine" "brand name" clothing. The shops are separated by alleys no more than three feet wide, some of which double as drainage ditches. There are numerous fruit smoothie stands in the center, which make a good spot for regrouping and planning your excursion. The stall owners are, of course, kings of negotiating, and without a good handle on Arabic and a strong backbone, you're unlikely to pay the going rate for anything.

Restaurants in Morocco are like restaurants in Spain - they don't open until around 7pm at the earliest, and most people don't eat until much later. Be sure to call first and make sure your restaurant of choice is actually open.

Budget

• La Cigale, Blvd Brahim Roudani just south of the Rampwan de L'unite Africaine. This bar is an unassuming spot close to the Park of the Arab League, with a restaurant in front that serves only the most basic food (sausage or kefta sandwiches, salads, and the like.) The bar in the back is more crowded and has live music most nights. Beer is served with a plate of olives or popcorn, and it's one of the few Moroccan-style bars where women can drink in peace. Wine and liquor are available, but only when eating in the restaurant. A few phrases in Arabic to Aisha, the barkeeper, will win her heart and ensure a constant supply of olives.

Mid-range

• La Corrida, 59 Rue el Araar, ☎ +212 (0) 22 27 81 55. From the outside, it's easy to miss this restaurant, but look for the little sign ringed in blinking lights. It has a nice outdoor courtyard, but the inside is the main attraction. It's decorated like with memorabilia from Spanish bull fighting tournaments and has a dark, candle-lit vibe that's perfect for dates. The sangria is tasty, as is the Tapas menu (which changes daily). Seafood is the specialty, and the steamed mussels should not be missed.

• Taverne du Dauphin, 115 Blvd Felix Houphouet, ☎ +212 (0) 22 22 12 00. A little seafood place within walking distance of the old medina, the port, and the Park of the Arabic League, this place can get crowded at meal times. An excellent selection of seafood and one of the widest beer selections in all of Morocco (though that's only 5 or 6 different brews) makes this a very popular lunch spot. The fish is fresh from the fishermen at the port, and the shellfish (oysters, mussels and so on) are delicious. When paying, however, keep an eye on the waiters: they'll "help you count the money," which can turn into an elaborate shell game where they'll slip some of the cash into their own pocket.

• Le Kobe D'Or, 9 Rue Abou Salt El Andaloussi (just off of Brahim Roudani), ☎ +212 (0) 22 98 07 25. An asian restaurant that is hard to miss, as it has an enormous red neon sign. The inside is nicely decorated in dark red, with lots of mirrors and asian details. The food is ho-hum; the soups are great but the chicken tends to be overcooked. Still, a nice place for a quick snack close to the Maarif, a good shopping area.

• La Sqala, Blvd. Des Almohades, ☎ +212 (0) 22 26 09 60. Built in the remains of an old fortress, this place is worth as much as a cultural attraction as it is a restaurant. On the outskirts of the old medina, it has cannons, walls, defensive positions, and portcullises as well as a nice, clean eating environment. The atmosphere tends to be a little on the touristy side, but the food is a good modern look at traditional Moroccan foods. Some dishes are vegetarian and vegan. They also have the obligatory Moroccan pastries and teas if you're just in the mood for a snack. Great photo opportunity.

• Al Mounia, 95 Rue Prince Moulay Abdullah, ☎ +212 (0) 22 22 26 69. This restaurant has an excellent courtyard with a hundred year-old tree. The main drawback is that since this restaurant is listed in most guidebooks, it fills up with tourists at an early hour. The cooking is mostly traditional Moroccan foods, with some of the best couscous in the country. There is also an extensive wine list.

Splurge

• Rick's Cafe, 248 Rue Sour Jdid, ☎ +212 (0) 22 27 42 07 / 08. This restaurant claims to have recreated the eponymous cafe from the movie Casablanca. Excellent location, within a 20 minute walk of the Hassan II Mosque and in the walls of the Old Medina bordering the ocean. The food is excellent, though expensive. Eat at one of the tables on the second floor for an excellent view of the seats below and the niveau-Moroccan decorations or eat on the ground floor to be nearer the piano player who plays, of course, As Time Goes By every night. Excellent selection of wine and liquor and, for Morocco, a thorough beer selection (5 different brands.) The waitstaff, in Tuxedos and Fezes, are superb. The only drawback to this place is the cost (dinner for 2 can run around 800 DH / $100 USD) but at least that keeps the backpackers out.

• YoSushi, 12 Rue Mohammed Abdou, ☎ +212 (0) 22 98 11 90. Sushi is catching on in a big way in Morocco. This little place, on a side street near the prefectural police headquarters, is one of the best. New, clean, and trendy, you're unlikely to find anyone in it before 10pm. They serve all the sushi classics- Nigiri, Sashimi, Hosomaki, Maki, Futomakis, and assorted other fish items. Though tasty, it can get expensive if your aim is to fill yourself up. Not very many options for vegan diners.

• Thai Gardens, Ave. de la Cote d'Emeraude, ☎ +212 (0) 22 79 75 79. This swanky restaurant is a little out of the way, in the upscale Anfa neighborhood near the Corniche. Petite taxis run about 20 DH from the city center, but there is no better asian restaurant in all of Casablanca. The spring rolls are delicious, with fresh mint inside, and the Pad Thai is as good as you'd get in New York. The beef filet with hot sauce (last item in the "beef" section) is worth the trip up their all by itself. Excellent selection of Moroccan wine but only 3 beers. Main dishes run around 140 DH.

Supermarkets like Acima and Marjane carry a wide variety of liquor and wine, though the beer selection is fairly stunted. The best places to drink are either European-style restaurants, which inevitably have a decent selection, or hotel bars, which are inevitably safer and more relaxed. Many western-style nightclubs exist in the Maarif and Gironde neighborhoods. Pubs will cost around 100 dirhams per head, it will be half if visited in the happy hours from 7pm to 11 pm. Pubs to visit Tiger House, La Notte.