If you want to escape from the pressures of today's modern life, Tripoli is the place to go. There are wonderful beaches within driving distance, and the Old City and the Museum are good for hours of exploration. Adventurous types might try the nightclub on the 3rd floor of the 3rd building in the downtown tower complex. Like any proper nightclub it only opens at 11pm. A non alcoholic beer will set you back a small fortune, and, like in Italy and Paris, there is a charge to sit at a table.

Fitness

If you want to keep fit, and if you can afford it, then go to the Corinthian hotel which has swimming pool, gym etc. If you are staying there, it is included in the price, but if not then the minimum membership is for 3 months at a price of 700 LD, then 6 months for 1200 LD.

There is also another gym called the Ein Zara Physiotherapy Centre which offers massage and all the basic fitness equipment for a far cheaper price of basic 75 LD/month or about 130 LD /month including massage. There is also a rumour of a gym in the Imad Complex (the 5 towers - downtown commercial area).

Landmarks

• the Arch of Marcus Aurelius

Museum and Galleries

• the National Museum

The Assaraya al-Hamra (the Red Castle), a vast palace complex with numerous courtyards, dominates the city skyline and is located on the outskirts of the medina. There are some classical statues and fountains from the Ottoman period scattered around the castle.

The Gurgi and Karamanli mosques, with their intricate decorations and tilework, are examples of the artistic skills of local craftsmen. Just outside the Gurgi mosque is the Arch of Marcus Aurelius, the only surviving Roman monument in the city. More and more palaces (especially from the Karamanli period) are also being restored and opened to the public. The basic street plan of the medina was laid down in the Roman period when the walls were constructed as protection against attacks from the interior of Tripolitania, and are considered well planned, possibly better than modern street plans. In the 8th century a wall on the sea-facing side of the city was added.

Three gates provided access to the old town: Bab Zanata in the west, Bab Hawara in the southeast and Bab Al-Bahr in the north wall.

The city walls are still standing and can be climbed for good views of the city. The Bazaar is also known for its traditional ware; fine jewellery and clothes can be found in the local markets. The Jamahiriya Museum, a fine modern facility located in the Red Castle, is Libya's national museum. It houses many artefacts from the country's Roman and Greek periods, including treasures from the World Heritage sites at Leptis Magna and Sabratha, as well as politically motivated displays such as the Volkswagen Beetle car driven by Gadaffi in the 1960s.

Visas will be needed, and those can be attained via embassies and/ or consulates. Roughly $50-$150, you will need to obtain the visa prior to arrival and be prepared for getting your hands on lots of information, best to ring first for the latest requirements as they change regularly. Make sure you have an official Arabic translation of your personal details in your passport otherwise immigration will turn you away once you have landed and send you home again.

By plane

Tripoli has an international airport appropriately named Tripoli International Airport. It is operated by the Civil Aviation and Meteorology Bureau of Libya and is the nation's largest airport. Located in the town of Ben Ghashir 34km south of the city centre, Tripoli International is a hub for Libyan Airlines. They are many well-known international carriers flying to the Libyan capital such as British Airways, Lufthansa, KLM, Emirates, Alitalia, etc. They are currently building a new airport adjacent to the old one.

By train

There is no train network operating in Libya yet, although Libya is planning to introduce such a service between the east and west of the country. This is currently in the planning stages and a Chinese contractor has already been brought on board.

By car

Tourists travelling to Tripoli used to make their way there by road from Tunisia which is nearer than the other border from Egypt, the journey takes approx three hours drive from the border with Tunisia. This journey should only be completed in daylight hours as its very dangerous at night, many sheep, cows and of course the Shepard roam the roads in evening and are hard to spot.

By boat

From Malta. Before sanctions were lifted in 1999 and 2003, this was the preferred method for getting into Tripoli. The only alternative was flying to Tunisia and driving to Tripoli.

A new ferries line that link Sfax in Tunisia to Tripoli 3 times a week is operated by [GTT Feries] , the one way trip cost about 30$ and take 10 hours at sea.

The best way to see Tripoli is to walk, there are plenty of great guides out there (books) to help you out and also you may come across some half useful Libyan versions. The people are friendly and very inquisitive. But be aware if your a westerner, or stick out like a sore thumb compared to a local, don't walk around at night alone. Taxis are also useful but can be pricey to westerner.

There are some big brand shops present in Tripoli, Marks and Spencer, Mango, H & M (although might not be genuine) but they are coming slowly. Prices are similar in comparison to the UK.

Clothes The best clothing shops are generally near Green Square and running up towards the former cathedral (now a mosque). Bargains can be found here including shoes and the usual knitwear which appears to good quality. Also in Gargarish and Benashour area there are many of nice shops there.

Furniture Gargarish Road running towardds Hay Andulas is easily the location to go for any furniture or office equipment, printing supplies etc.

Electronics The best electronics shops are also on Gargarish Road but for computer equipment head to the Fatah Tower in the downtown commercial district where there a couple of shops, in addition to the computer shops in Aldahrah

The quality of food in Tripoli is good and it is generally inexpensive by western standards. Do not expect a huge variety, the cuisine is mostly Arabic. The chances of getting food poisoning is slim but beware of the fish, if you do however feel inclined to sample the fruits of the sea, just take one look at the cleanliness of the harbor and the beaches. There is an Oriental restaurant in the Corinthea hotel and another one in Gargash. Brush up on your Arabic; waiting staff speak little English and getting one of them to serve you at your table can be a challenge.

Budget

$5 for a takeaway meal, $20 in a good reastaurant, and $40 at a fancy restaurant in the Corinthea hotel.

Mid-range

Several new cafe shops and bistros opened up in Tripoli. Mostly located in the Gergaresh strip all the way to Seyaheya. Just to name a few of the most popular venues; 02,W Cafe, Veranda, Caracalla, Cacao, Halaweyat Sharkiya and Caffe Casa. Most of these cafes are also restaurants and serve a variety of dishes both western and middle eastern. All are of the afforable range and are very popular amongst the foreigns of the city of Tripoli.

Splurge

Alcohol is forbidden in Libya. It is not available in any restaurants or hotels except black market which may be much pricier than you thought.