Travel information

GeneralSeeGet InGet Around
夏草や 兵どもが 夢の跡
natsugusa ya tsuwamono-domo ga yume no ato
Summer grass — all that remains of warrior dreams
-- Matsuo Bashō

During the reign of the Fujiwaras (866-1184), Hiraizumi was said to rival Kyoto in grandeur and sophistication, but now all that remains are the temples of Chusonji and Motsuji, both of which are mostly in ruins at that. Famed haiku poet Matsuo Basho penned the famous haiku quoted above, with the end result that now Basho is more idolized in Hiraizumi than anywhere else -- with the exception of many other places that idolize Basho.. You can't throw a rock in Hiraizumi without hitting a Basho statue, a Basho monument, an inscribed copy of a Basho haiku or at the very least a coffee shop waving its "As mentioned in Narrow Road to the Deep North!" banners -- except in the places where there isn't a basho statue, monument, copy or coffee shop.


Photos from Hiraizumi, Japan
Takkoku no Iwaya, Bishamondo
Statue of Basho, Chusonji
Pure Land Garden, Motsuji
  • Chūson-ji Temple (中尊寺). Hiraizumi's largest and most famous temple, renowned particularly for its Golden Hall (金色堂 Konjikidō) — which, unlike Kyoto's Golden Pavilion, is housed inside a large glass case. True to the name, the shrine inside is elaborately decorated with golden lacquer and mother-of-pearl, with three Buddha images. Entry a rather steep ¥800. 5 minutes by bus or 20 on foot from the station.
  • Mōtsu-ji Temple (毛越寺), [2]. The second of Hiraizumi's two large temples, known for its Heian-era Pure Land Garden (浄土園 Jōdo-en) dating to 800 AD. The garden seems downright un-Japanese in its liberal use of wide, grassy spaces — but most of the open spaces have scattered rocks and are marked with small posts in the middle, indicating the locations of destroyed temple buildings. Entry into the garden and the small museum ¥500. 10 minutes on foot from the station
  • Takkoku no Iwaya Bishamon-do: A nice cave temple about 30 minutes bike ride out of town. It is the 5th incarnation of the temple since it was established in 801. It is dedicated to Bishamon the god of war, but was called Iwaya Bishamondo: a place to pray for peace. Also at this site is the Ganmen Daibutsu a giant stone carving of Budda, but only the head remains after an earthquake destroyed the body. The ride to the temple is enjoyable in itself with nice Japanese countryside all the way. Entry into the temple and grounds is ¥300.

Photos from Hiraizumi, Japan
Takkoku no Iwaya, Bishamondo
Statue of Basho, Chusonji
Pure Land Garden, Motsuji

By train

Hiraizumi is on the JR Tohoku Main Line, connecting to Morioka in the north and Sendai to the south.

The nearest Shinkansen stop, Ichinoseki, is only 10 minutes away (¥170). Trains from Tokyo reach Ichinoseki in about 2 1/2 hours (¥12470 for the one-way trip to Hiraizumi; no charge with the Japan Rail Pass).


Photos from Hiraizumi, Japan
Statue of Basho, Chusonji
Takkoku no Iwaya, Bishamondo
Pure Land Garden, Motsuji

Local buses connect JR Hiraizumi station to points of interest, although you can also reach them on foot. Bicycle hire is available just to the right of the station, it is ¥1000 for the whole day (lesser periods are available) it allows you to get around quickly and enjoyably.


Photos from Hiraizumi, Japan
Statue of Basho, Chusonji
Pure Land Garden, Motsuji
Takkoku no Iwaya, Bishamondo