During the Green Season

Near Hakuba, during the green season (i.e. spring, summer & autumn), there are three freshwater lakes that are so clean that you can swim in them. In order from south to north, they are called Aoki-ko, Nakazuna-ko, and Kizaki-ko. The use of engines and outboard motors is banned on Aoki-ko, making it the quietest and nicest of the three. Popular activities include boating, sport fishing, and windsurfing. Nakazuna-ko is very small and only really attracts fishermen. Kizaki-ko is the most developed, and since engines are allowed, sports like wakeboarding are popular.

During the summer, most of the ski resorts operate some of their lifts to allow access to higher elevations. At Hakuba 47 and Aokiko (in nearby Omachi), the lifts allow access for mountain biking. Hiking or simply enjoying the views are popular at Happo, Goryu and Tsugaike. Above Happo, an easy trail extends for 40 minutes to a small pond in which the local alpine peaks are reflected. A couple of hours further up the trail lies the peak of Mt. Karamatsu on the main ridge of the North Alps. The top ski run at Goryu becomes an alpine garden in summer and another trail leads further upward to a viewpoint (around 50 minutes) or the peak of Mt. Goryu itself (around four hours). Above Tsugaike, a further ropeway takes you to a wetland that is designated as a national park. A trail from here takes you up to Mt. Shirouma, after which Hakuba is named. Shirouma and Hakuba are different readings of the kanji for "white horse". The smaller ski field of Iwatake uses its pistes to grow thousands of lilies in summer and also has a dry ski slope if you're desperate for turns.

Like all mountain areas in Japan, temperatures in Hakuba stay much cooler than in the cities on Japan's Pacific coast. That alone makes it worthy of a visit.

By train

Hakuba is a stop on the JR Oito Line.

From Shinjuku in Tokyo, there is one daily Super Azusa limited express service that runs to Hakuba. The ride takes 3 hours, 45 minutes and costs ¥8070 each way. As of January 2006, the outbound service leaves at 11:00, and the inbound service (to Shinjuku) departs from Hakuba at 14:57. There is also an additional Azusa service on certain dates, making the run to Hakuba in about 4 hours.

Otherwise, you will have to take an Azusa or Super Azusa to Matsumoto and take one (possibly two) Oito Line local trains, increasing the journey to 4 1/2 hours.

The fastest route from Tokyo is by Shinkansen (bullet train) from Tokyo Station to Nagano: 105min./8,170yen. Then by bus from Nagano to Hakuba 65min./1,500yen. Trains run every half hour or so, buses every hour. Note that the last bus from Nagano Station to Hakuba is 8:30pm. This whole trip takes just over 2.5 hours, 9,700yen one way.

These trips are useful for Japan Rail Pass holders, or else it is probably cheaper to take the bus.

By Bus

From Tokyo, Buses run from Shinjuku every two or three hours and stop at several places in the Hakuba region. The trip takes around 4 and a half hours and costs ¥8500 return for adults or half that for children. Timetable

Buses run every hour during ski season from Nagano and cost ¥1400/¥700 for adults/children. The journey takes just over an hour. Timetable

• Outside of the winter months, there are plenty of bike trails and walking paths to get around the area. Many hostels have bike rental which helps if you are a little bit outside of Hakuba proper.
• If you are based around Kamishiro station, you are on the main rail line and road so a trip into Hakuba proper is only five minutes by JR or by Bus.

Hakuba's specialty products include blueberries and purple rice.

• Fresh blueberries can be picked straight from the vine during spring and summer at The Blueberry Farm, tel. +81 261-75-2735, or purchased from most gift stores in the region.
• For the same berry flavor with increased shelf-life, try some locally made blueberry youkan (sweet jelly) or daifuku (rices cakes with sweet paste).
• Hakuba Murasakimai, or purple rice, is the result of boiling a mixture of glutinous and non-glutinous grains. It's available from roadside stations around Hakuba.

• Gravity Worx Cafe. Next to Hakuba station, this warm and inviting cafe has English menus and delicious homemade apple pie. A wide range of pizza and pasta dishes are available, or you can settle in with a few drinks and watch a movie on the bar tv. The large hot chocolate, served rich and steaming in a huge beer stein, is the best medicine for the icy winter days. Service is excellent and there is local produce and baked goods for sale. Meals ¥800-1500 Deserts ¥400.

• White Horse Restaurant, in Echoland, [3]. Offers a great range of hearty western style meals including steaks, burgers, and pizzas. They have a large international wine list and english speaking staff. Friday night is the famous BBQ night. Expresso coffee available.

• Uncle Steven's Mexican Restaurant just across the bridge up the hill from Happo Village. Some of the best Mexican food in Japan. Don't miss the baked banana. It usually runs a family of four about 8,000 including beer and bananas.

• Yamano Hotel Restaurant, in Happo-One, in front of the Ski Jumping Stadium, phone: 0261-72-8311 or by e-mail: info@hakuba-yamanohotel.com, [4]. Offers delicious French Style and traditional Japanese Style meals (Chanko Nabe - famed sumo wrestlers one-pot meal) and also a wide range of drinks: wine, beer, sake etc. to enjoy with. Service is excellent with friendly English speaking staff. A reservation is required in advance.

• Tracks Bar, One of Hakuba's most happening nightspots [5].

• White Horse Bar, [6]. A cool atmosphere for apres drinks with a great selection of local and international beers, wines and spirits and some smooth tunes. Situated in Echoland.

• Yamano Hotel Bar called "Noroc" in Happo - One, in front of the Ski Jumping Stadium, [7]. Good music, wide range of drinks and friendly staff. Opening hours: 22:00 - 1:00