
One of Japan's Three Famous Springs (日本三名泉 Nihon Sanmeisen), not to be confused with Japan's Three Great Springs and several other competing variants, Gero Onsen is classic case of how overdevelopment can ruin what must once have been a beautiful spot. The town's hot springs made their first appearance in print in the Engi Era (901-923), but the present incarnation is packed full of colossal identikit concrete hotels, dubious bars advertising nude shows and Filipina prostitutes soliciting passersby from parking lots. Visitor in search of a quieter experience would do well to select one of the many hot springs hamlets on either side of the town instead, or head to the Oku-Hida Onsen Villages instead.
And there's one more thing that has changed for the worse over the years: the characters used for Gero actually mean just "lower bath", but in modern Japanese gero is also a common slang word for "vomit".
As you'd expect in a hot spring town, the major attraction in Gero is to soak in hot springs. An easy way to sample a number of them is to buy the Yu-meguri Tegata (湯めぐり手形) pass, a wooden amulet sold all over Gero. This will get you into 3 hot springs of your choice from a choice of over 20 for the flat price of ¥1200, which can be used up at your own pace as you'll get a stamp each time you visit.
Gero is also quite popular for sightseeing of seasonal cherry blossoms and fall leave colors due to its mountainous location.
There are nice mountain views on the way in to Gero, a few distinctly ordinary temples, and one attraction:
Gero Onsen's train station, Gero, is located on the JR Takayama Line.
The easiest method of reaching Gero Onsen is to take a shinkansen bullet train to Nagoya and transfer there to the Wide View Hida limited express train. From Tokyo the run takes about 3 1/2 hours via Nozomi at a cost of ¥13500. The Japan Rail Pass is NOT valid for Nozomi trains; using the Hikari service will take about four hours, including transfer time.
Gero is a 2 1/2 hour ride from Kyoto using the Nozomi to Nagoya (¥8880).
If you take local trains from Nagoya, the ride will take approximately three hours, with transfers required at Gifu and Mino-Ota, at a cost of ¥2210.
If you decide to take all local trains from Tokyo (i.e. while using a Seishun 18 Ticket), you will need to depart Tokyo very early in the morning, or stay over at an intermediate stop, since the ride to Gero will take about nine hours. A 7:00 departure from Tokyo will have you arriving in Gero after 16:00. (Without the Seishun 18 ticket this will cost ¥7670.)
Whatever method you choose, the views of the valley and the Hida River below as you approach Gero station are spectacular.
The most popular souvenir from Gero (and the Hida region in general) is the sarubobo[2], a small hooded red doll.