
Dewa Sanzan means "Three Mountains of Dewa" and indeed comprises the three sacred mountains of Haguro-san (羽黒山), Gas-san (月山) and Yudono-san (湯殿山), clustered together in the ancient province of Dewa (modern-day Yamagata prefecture). Holy to the Japanese Shinto religion and especially the mountain ascetic cult of Shugendo, Dewa Sanzan are a popular pilgrimage site visited by many, including famed haiku poet Matsuo Basho on his Narrow Road to the Deep North. If you're lucky, you may even spot a yamabushi ascetic pilgrim blowing into a conch shell.
Haguro-san is accessible all year round, but Gas-san and Yudono-san close during winter because of snow. The peak climbing season is short and extends only from July to mid-October. Festivals are held to celebrate the opening and closing of the shrines.
Regular buses from Tsuruoka (鶴岡; ~40 min; ¥800) connect to Haguro-machi (羽黒町), get off at the "Haguro Center" (羽黒センター) stop for the trailhead. Some buses also continue all the way to the top, taking an extra 10 minutes.
The bus stop is right in front of the Tsuruoka train station. There are 4 different stops served by multiple bus lines, so be careful about which bus you board. You may wish to ask the driver: "Haguro-san ni ikimasu-ka?" (Do you go to Haguro-san?)
Here is the bus schedule:
Tsuruoka - Haguro Center - Haguro-San (peak)
6:02 AM - 6:35 AM - 6:50 AM
7:02 AM - 7:35 AM - 7:50 AM
7:52 AM - 8:30 AM - 8:45 AM
9:22 AM - 10:00 AM - 10:15 AM
10:37 AM - 11:15 AM - 11:30 AM
11:42 AM - 12:20 PM - 12:30 PM
12:52 PM - 1:30 PM - 1:45 PM
2:27 PM - 3:05 PM - 3:20 PM
3:52 PM - 4:30 PM - 4:45 PM
5:27 PM - 6:05 PM
Haguro-San (peak) - Haguro Center - Tsuruoka
9:00 AM - 9:15 AM - 9:50 AM
10:30 AM - 10:45 AM - 11:20 AM
11:50 AM - 12:05 PM - 12:40 PM
1:00 PM - 1:15 PM - 1:50 PM
2:15 PM - 2:30 PM - 3:05 PM
3:50 PM - 4:05 PM - 4:40 PM
5:00 PM - 5:15 PM - 5:50 PM
5:15 PM - 5:30 PM - 6:05 PM
Less frequent buses also connect Yudono-san to Yamagata.
NOTE: Once you get to Tsuruoka, do not expect to find much English. Your journey will be a lot easier if you speak Japanese or have someone with you who does.
Buses shuttle from both the top of Haguro-san and the Kyuka-mura stop at the base of the mountain to Gas-san Eighth Station. Note that the bus stop is on the other side of the mountain (not in Haguro-machi), take the footpath down (40 min) instead of the road to get to the stop faster.