
Haifa is first mentioned historically around the 3rd century CE as a small town near Shikmona, the main Jewish town in the area at that time and a center for making the traditional Tekhelet dye used for Jewish Priests' temple cloth. The archaeological site of Shikmona lies southwest of the modern Bat Galim neighborhood. The Byzantine ruled there until the 7th century, when the city was conquered — first by the Persians, then by the Arabs. In 1100, it was conquered again by the crusaders after a fierce battle with its Jewish and Muslim inhabitants. Under crusader rule, the city was a part of the Principality of Galilee until the Muslim Mameluks captured it in 1265.
In 1761 Daher El-Omar, Bedouin ruler of Acre and Galilee, destroyed and rebuilt the town in a new location, surrounding it with a thin wall. This event is marked as the beginning of the town's modern era. After El-Omar's death in 1775, the town was under Ottoman rule until 1918, except for two brief periods. In the years following, Haifa grew in terms of traffic, population and importance, as Akko suffered a decline. The development of Haifa increased further with the arrival of members of the German Protestant Temple Society in 1868, who settled a modern neighbourhood near the city, now known as the "German Colony". The Templers greatly contributed to the town's commerce and industry, playing an important role in its modernization.
By the beginning of the 20th Century, Haifa had emerged as an industrial port city and growing population center, reflected by the establishment of facilities like the Hejaz railway and Technion. At that time Haifa District was home to approximately 20,000 inhabitants, comprised of 82% Muslim Arab, 14% Christian Arabs, and 4% Jewish residents. The Jewish population increased steadily with immigration primarily from Europe, and by 1945 the population had shifted to 38% Muslim, 13% Christian and 47% Jewish.
Today, Haifa is home to significant populations of Jews, Muslim and Christian Arabs, Ahmadis (in Kababir), Druze (in Daliyat al-Carmel), Bahá'ís, and others, and has often been characterised as a mosaic of peaceful coexistence between the communities. The city has an industrial area to the north, where one of Israel's two oil refineries is located, and a high-tech south, where R&D Centers are located for a large number of Israeli and international hi-tech companies including Intel, Elbit, Zoran, Microsoft, Philips, Google and Amdocs. IBM has R&D labs on top of Mount Carmel at Haifa University and HP has a lab at the Technion, Israel's leading technological university.
Haifa is largely a modern city.
Haifa has its own airport, Haifa Airport which serves flights to Tel Aviv and Eilat, although the closest international airport is Ben Gurion International Airport in Tel Aviv, where flights arrive from all over the world. From Ben Gurion, you could connect on a flight to Haifa, although, chances are you'll have to transfer between terminals, or even airports, to Sde Dov Airport. The better option is to travel straigt on to Haifa - its only about a maximum of two hours to drive, and buses, trains, taxis, and sheruts, operate the route.
Haifa is well connected to Tel Aviv, Akko (Acre), Beer Sheva and the Ben Gurion International Airport by a train line. The trip takes a little over an hour and during peak hours there are as many as 3-4 services hourly. There are 4 train stations in Haifa:
From the south, route 2 is the coastal highway which links Haifa with Tel Aviv. This journey takes up to one and a half hours. Other more minor roads link Haifa to the East and North, although chances are, if you're up there, you've come close to or past Haifa to get there in the first place.
Alternatively, you can take Egged buses from Tel Aviv (910), Jerusalem (940,947), Afula (301) or almost any city in the region to Haifa. During the Sabbath, you'll have to resort to a shared taxi (sherut), most of which leave from near Tel Aviv's central bus station.
From Haifa (the Hadar neighborhood, i.e. the uphill part of downtown), sheruts provide cheap frequent service to the cities of Karmiel, as well as to Haifa and its suburbs.
A high-resolution map of Haifa (in PDF vector format) is available here. The map is in Hebrew.
Unlike other major cities in Israel, local buses (but not the Carmelit subway) run on Saturday and other Jewish holy days. However, they don't operate on Friday evenings. Haifa Has two main bus terminals where passengers can switch between inter-city buses and trains to the local routes operated by Egged bus company. The two stations are:
Haifa has a subway: the Carmelit funicular. It is the only subway in Israel. It is useful for getting up or down the mountain from downtown. However, it only extends to a small part of Haifa. So, if you need to go further, you can buy a ticket which includes a transfer to a bus for the remainder of your journey.
Due to its weird angled structure (made necessary by the steepness of the mountain) it is worth taking for fun even though it may not reach a useful destination. The Carmelit has few riders, so you'll always find a seat.
The Carmelit has 6 stations listed here as they go downhill:
Haifa's mountainous location makes it quite unfriendly for the pedestrian, therefore shopping avenues are rare. The shops that are found in the city center offer a cheap and essential variety.
On the other hand, Haifa is known for its wide variety of shopping malls including the Kiryon, Kastra Center, Kanyon Haifa and Cinemall. In addition, the 'Grand Kanyon' is considered to be the newest and biggest mall, including international brand names such as Armani, Lacoste, Benetton and Zara as well as local brands and a wide food court. "Kanyon" is Hebrew for mall, and the "Grand Kanyon" is located in a deep valley in central Haifa, hence the pun in its name.
Haifa is not a gourmet center like greater Tel Aviv, but it still has plenty to offer.
Falafel and other street food. Some good falafel can be found in: Orion (at hadar & ziv), Ha-zkenim Wadi Nisnas area; this is a Haifa institution!), Michel also Wadi Nisnas, and at Paris square, the lowest Carmelit station.
There is a huge concentration of falafel stands & shawarma at yafo st. downtown, near the egged bus terminal building (about 400m from it). The food is cheap and authentic (about 10-15 Nis for a falafel pita, and around 20-22 for a shawarma).
Another cheap street food is the Bureka--a Turkish phyllo dough, filled pastry--which is almost as common as falafel. Price is also cheap, and it usually comes filled with cheese or potatoes.
Further up the food chain are the Middle eastern/Arabic restaurants. Most are located downtown: Abu-Yousef (there are two with no relation ), Humus Farage (on Hameginim St.), Maza (a good place in a gas station near the shopping mall "Grand Kenyon"). They are all famous for their high quality Hummus (which is regarded as the "best of the best" in Israel). Expect to pay 50-80NIS per person for a complete meal.
There are several Romanian-style restaurants; in actuality this is a hybrid of Middle Eastern and Romanian cuisine. Most are located downtown: Ma'ayan habira (beer fountain), Cafe (coffee) Glida (icecream) Younek. Expect to pay 50-100NIS per person for a meal.
Jako - one of the best fish restaurants (Downtown near Natanson St.). It was a working-class restaurant until it became famous, and increased its prices a bit, but its still at large.(?) (80-120NIS per person)
Isabella is a restaurant at the entrance of the German colony. Isabella provides great seafood that caters to a western palate at a mid-range price. Their house wine is pretty good and overall the service was good. I ordered a plate of Grouper with rissoto and two glasses of wine for 109 Shekels.
Moria Avenue, starting from Horev center (shopping center) all the way to the Carmel center along 'Moriyah' street. Some good places alongside this 3km road are:
You can find good food in the local bars around Moria St., e.g: the Duke, Brown, Barbarosa. Good traditional restaurant is Ma'ayan Habira, where home style dishes are served.
Ben Gurion Avenue, right below the Bahai gardens. (at a straight line below it, thus completing an imaginary line from the gardens into the sea. the street is at the downtown near the port). This cluster holds some fancy restaurants:
and some ordinary mixed styles of restaurants:
Dado beach. Last but no least is the beach strip cluster which has several restaurants. The food is ok, but the real reason to go there is to relax while enjoying views of the beach (only 15 meters away), or for people-watching.
All these clusters of restaurants are very vibrant with youth at about 9pm further into the small hours of the night, almost at any day of the week, but on Fridays, it may get too crowded on the most popular places. Unfortunately the medium priced places usually take the 'all the people you can squeeze in' approach, thus you might get a noisy crowded place, and service may not be as good.
Tipping is customary. The normal rate is 10% at all places that you sit down and are served. It is not necessary to tip at falafel, shwarma, and bureka stands, unless you're a generally difficult person to serve. You know who you are. If you feel the service was poor, tip less, if it was outstanding tip a little more.
Central Mount Carmel offers a decent selection of mid class restaurants, cafe's and bars, such as Fusion noodle house 'Giraffe', Japanese 'Tatami' and trendy cafes such as 'Greg' and 'Tut'. 'Frangelico' and 'Barbarossa' are considered to be the most popular bars in the city's chic Carmel area while the legendary old fashioned 'Maayan Habira' in the Down Town is more popular among adult crowd.