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A byword for crowded poverty even in Indonesia, Madura's infertile soil has led to an estimated 10 million Madurese migrants leaving the island, with only around 4 million left to eke out a living from subsistence agriculture (corn), tobacco and cloves, salt panning, fishing and cattle farming. A larger contrast to the largely lush and fertile Java next door is hard to imagine.
Those geographic and climatic reasons, together with a lack of well known sights, make Madura as off the beaten path for travellers as it gets in this part of Indonesia.
History has not dealt the people of Madura a kind card. The island was in an almost perpetual state of conflict with different parts of the island siding with different kingdoms in various medieval Javanese conflicts. In the colonial period the rulers of the east and west Madura were often allied with the Dutch and, in return for protection, provided natural resources and troops. In World War II the Madurese suffered enormously under the Japanese.
The opening of the Suramadu Bridge in mid-2009 might just begin to change the off the beaten path nature of Madura though. There are large investment plans mooted and many of these focus on developing Madura as a tourist destination from 2010. Only time will tell but the omens look good for an island that has had little go in its favour for so long.
Tales and legends have developed around Madurese women who are famous throughout Indonesia for one thing: secretive sex techniques known as goyang Madura. These seem to involve clenching vaginal muscles in a way not unlike Kegel exercises, assisted with herbal preparations like the tongkat Madura (Madura stick) that were a minor hit in Japan a few years back.
This is a very dry and hot island recalling arid eastern parts of Indonesia.
Madura Regency Tourist Information Office: Jl Sutomo No5, Sumenep, Madura. Tel: +62 328 667148, Tu-Sa, 7AM-3PM.
The Suramadu Bridge (Jembatan Suramadu) was completed in June 2009 after a rather tortured history of stop-start construction, lack of funding and industrial accidents. At 5.5 km it is Indonesia's longest. It connects connects northern Surabaya in Java to Bangkalan in Madura. The one way toll is Rp 30,000 for a car or van and Rp 3,000 for a motorbike. It is perfectly possible for visitors to cross to Madura independently using a car or motorbike rented in Surabaya. You should though tell the hire company that you intend to drive the vehicle to Madura.
The classic way to get to Madura involves taking a public ferry from Tanjung Perak, north Surabaya, to Kamal which is 10km south of Bangkalan. These run every 30 minutes 24 hours a day. The queues at weekends and during holiday periods can be unbelievably large (remember that more than 10 million ethnic Madurese live elsewhere in Indonesia). Avoid public holidays and the Ramadan period altogether. Since the opening of the bridge, travellers are perhaps better off avoiding the ferry altogether.
For the adventurous, there is another ferry route into Madura from Jangkar in the Situbondo regency of north eastern Java. The crossing takes about 5 hours and the schedules are weather dependent and by no means certain. This ferry service arrives in Kalianget, about 10 km south east of Sumenep in eastern Madura and it makes sense if you are coming from the Baluran National Park area.
Buses from Bungarasih terminal in Surabaya run very regularly to Sumenap (and other points on Madura in between) over the Suramadu bridge.
Simple warungs and street-side vendors are the go in Madura. Whether you are looking for a seated restaurant or happy with street stalls, the key is to follow the local crowds.
Specialities include:
Sumenep probably has the best selection of warungs and simple restaurants on the island.