
The center of town where the train and bus stations can be found is of little interest to most travelers. Further north-east are 2 bridges spanning the Ganges, Ram Jhula and Lakshman Jhula, and either end of these bridges are the main hubs of activity and interest.
Most accommodation and restaurants can be found in Lakshman Jhula, High Bank and Swarg Ashram.
Rishikesh is in close proximity of Dehradun's Jolly Grant Airport (about 15 km) - a small, quiet and recently renovated airport handling just two flights from Delhi. The runway is being extended and will possibly then handle flights from other metros.
A quiet branch line connects Rishikesh to Haridwar, but there are only about three slow trains daily. It's best to take the train to Haridwar and continue by bus (45 min, Rs 20), by taxi (30 mins, Rs 500) or by shared auto-rickshaw (Rs 10, 40 min). Travelling by train comes recommend as they run empty, the fares are low (just Rs 4/- for a passenger service) & run right-time especially in peak seasons or "Melas" (Fares) when bus routes are diverted in Haridwar & share rickshaws try to make a killing. You can take "Vikrams" towards Lakshman Jhula (Rs 10) from Rishikesh station. You will have to cross Ram Jhula to reach Swarg Ashram(On the other side of river Ganges). From Delhi there are many trains to Haridwar, some of the best are: Shatabadi Express, Jan Shatabdi, AC Special Express, Mussoorie Express. Travel agents in Swarg Ashram and Lakshman Jhula can book train tickets for onward journeys, much easier than going to Rishikesh railway station to buy a ticket. Some may sell you a ticket from Raiwala, a small stop between Rishikesh and Haridwar, but this station, while closer, is tiny and trains only stop for a few seconds - better to board the train in Haridwar.
From Delhi the city is about 230 km away and is well connected with buses. A Bus journey may take about 5-7 hours - depending on the traffic - and costs you about Rs 130-350. An AC Bus will cost about Rs 200-500. In Rishikesh, there are several travel agencies scattered around Swarg Ashram and Lakshman Jhula that can book luxury buses to common destinations like Delhi (Rs 250-500), Jaipur, [Pushkar]] and Varanasi. The right time to visit would be February,March,August-October. In July there is a festival called Savan where thousands of people flock to Rishikesh. Major roads are blocked and hotels are crowded. It is better to avoid travelling to Rishikesh during that time.
Auto-rickshaws (vikrams) are useful from the bus/train stations to get to either of the bridges (Rs 8) and for the southern side of the Ganges. Swargashram is pretty much pedestrian only, but it's compact and walkable (as is the whole of the town). For other autorickshaw journeys you should expect to pay around Rs 15/km.
As with most holy cities come tourist destinations there's a plethora of religious paraphenalia, cheap clothing aimed at foreigners, incense, bronze shiva statues, etc. Unlike many other similar towns in India prices here are usually reasonable and you won't have to haggle hard for a good price.
Non-vegeterian food has been banned in the city for many many years. North and south Indian food is widely available, and there's no shortage of multi-cuisine backpacker cafes, especially in Lakshman Jhula. What excites many foreigners is the delicious Ayurvedic and health food restaurants, perfect for an after-yoga meal. Many of the main lanes are lined with wooden push carts selling in-season fruit, veggies, Popcorn, nuts, warm cookies and lots else, and you'll usually be quoted a fair price. The papayas here are particularly delicious. Try the famous Chotiwali Special / Janata or Delux Thali . Once upon a time it used to be an unlimited affair but now due to practical constraints the quantity is limited and extra helpings are charged . There are several eateries offering jalebis, imartis samosas and other Indian snacks. If you haven't heard of these before, you should definitely try them out.
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