
Copenhagen is one of Europe's most enjoyable cities. Situated on the Oresund (Danish: Øresund) strait, with Sweden just minutes away by train, it is a link between mainland Europe and Scandinavia, and has a wealth of cultural and entertaining things to see and do. The city has a reputation for tolerance, the fascinating 'free city' of Christiania, a community of people who have tried to create an equal and just consensus-governed democracy for its people. There is more to here than Carlsberg and The Little Mermaid, and a trip to the wonderful Tivoli Gardens will leave the visitor in no doubt that this is a very special city.
Tipping in Denmark is included in the salaries of professionals. Thus tipping, while obviously greatly appreciated, is not required. So feel free to tip from your heart, rewarding those you feel deserve it and ignore the rest without shame.
Although Denmark is a member of the European Union, the currency is still the Danish Krone. As it is pegged to the Euro, the exchange rate remains at approximately 100 EUR = 742 DKK. A few places in Copenhagen might accept payment in Euro or even Swedish Kronor, but it is certainly not common practice.
Or take a swim at the very popular designated swimming areas in the clean water of the Copenhagen harbour. But beware: it is very popular among the Danish people.
There is free entrance to most museums once a week, mainly on Wednesdays.
Copenhagen's Kastrup Airport (CPH) is the main hub of Scandinavia's largest carrier SAS Scandinavian and regularly wins favorable comments from passengers for both design and function — this is a much more pleasant place to transit than, say, London Heathrow or Frankfurt. Check-in lines for SAS can get very long however during the peak hours of the summer months so make sure to allocate some extra time for this. Self-service check in counters are actually available, but it appears that not too many people make use of them.
A number of low-cost carriers also fly to the airport. Sterling connects Copenhagen with 35 cities in Europe. EasyJet serve Copenhagen from London Stansted, Milan and Berlin Schönefeld. Air Berlin flies direct to Dusseldorf, Berlin and Palma de Mallorca. Norwegian offers budget flights to Oslo and Warsaw.
It takes 12 minutes by train to get from Kastrup to the central station (Hovedbanegården) in downtown Copenhagen. You need a ticket for 3 zones. Purchased from one of the automated vending machines or the ticket counter located inside the atrium, this costs 28.50 DKK. The Copenhagen Metro also connects Kastrup with central Copenhagen, with trains leaving every four minutes in daytime and every 15 minutes in the night and taking 14 minutes to the city center (for the same ticket and price of 28.50 DKK).
Consider Sturup Airport (MMX) in Malmö, Sweden as well - it's 40 minutes by bus from central Malmö, and from there 30 minutes by train to Copenhagen Central Station. Or use the direct Bus 737 (DKK 100, 50 minutes). Sterling flies there from Gatwick, Nice, Barcelona, Florence & Stockholm. Wizzair from Budapest, Gdansk, Katowice, Poznan & Warsaw.
All buses and trains stop at Central Station, the main transport hub. There are hourly trains from major cities such as Odense and Aarhus via the Storebælt Bridge.
The easiest and fastest way to get in from Sweden is to cross the Øresund Bridge via Malmö, a journey of only 30 minutes.
Gråhundbus (DKK 60, DKK 100 same day return), Swebus Express, and Säfflebussen have routes to Malmö and Sweden. To Malmö the buses take longer but are cheaper than the train, especially for daytrips.
Travel by train has been prioritized politically, therefore Copenhagen still lacks an international bus terminal. Most international busses stop somewhere around the Central Station (usually next to DGI-byen), but be sure to check the exact location when you buy your ticket.
There are about half a dozen daily trains to Hamburg and Lübeck in Germany via Rødby-Puttgarden (train ferry).
Ferries ply between Copenhagen Port and Oslo (16hr) and Świnoujście (Poland).
Copenhagen has several marinas. The biggest is Svanemøllehavnen. There are no designated visitor berths but it is almost always possible to find one with a green sign. Daily charge: 75-120 DKK.
The two big hubs are the Central Station (da: Hovedbanegården/København H) with S-trains, Intercity-trains, and buses and Nørreport Station with S-trains, metro, regional trains, and buses. Travels by trains, buses and metro can be scheduled electronically through rejseplanen.dk
All public transport in Copenhagen, as well as the rest of the country, operates on a zone system. The smallest ticket is the two-zone ticket which will cost you DKK 20, and can be purchased from ticket offices, vending machines and bus drivers. It will allow you to travel around Copenhagen in two zones (the zone where you stamped or purchased the ticket plus one adjacent zone) for an hour. You can switch freely between all trains, metro and busses within this hour, as long as you last trip starts before the time is up (your ticket will be timestamped in 15-minutes intervals).
The range of a single zone can roughly be translated to around 7 minutes in the metro or 15 minutes in a bus, but always check the zone maps in the stations, some stations are closer to zone borders than others. Ask local people if help is needed, as the zone system can be complex for visitors. At night (from 1 am. to 5 am.) the ticket price double, and you need to stamp for example 4 zones if you travel in 2 zones. This rule applies to all N-busses (night busses). Night charges do not apply to holders of monthly cards.
A ten-trip klippekort will give you a discount of around 40%, and can be bought in kiosks and ticket offices. You can also purchase a day pass starting at DKK 90. Alternatively, buy a Copenhagen Card, which gives free transport throughout the region and free admission to 60 museums and sights. The card costs DKK 199 for 24 hours, DKK 429 for 72 hours.
In regional trains, S-tog and Metro a ticket must be bought and timestamped before boarding the trains. In buses tickets can be bought from the driver but not klippekort which must be bought beforehand. The fine for travelling without a valid ticket is DKK 600 and ticket conductors are common both in S-trains and metros. More information about price and tickets on www.movia.dk
The S-train service runs from early morning to late night. Each train (apart from the F-line) runs with 10-minute intervals during the day (from 6 am. to 6 pm. on weekdays), and with 20-minute intervals on early morning and late night (The F-line has 3 departures each hour regardless of the time of the day; C however stops at Frederikssund and not Ballerup during the day). This means that there are only a couple of minutes of waiting between each train within the city.
Loudspeaker announcement regarding S-trains are given in Danish only, so remember to ask your fellow travelers, but for the most part they are just cursory announcements.
The Copenhagen Metro runs from Vanløse to the airport through the city center and the new town of Ørestad. The Metro has no timetable, and between Vanløse and Christianshavn trains run with a 4-minute interval (2-minute during peak hour). It runs from 5 am to midnight. During Thursday, Friday and Saturday night the metro runs nonstop with 15-minute intervals. The trains are controlled automatically and are without drivers, so the doors will close at a given time, even if all waiting passengers have not entered the train. Wait for the next train instead of trying to squeeze through in the last second.
More information on the Copenhagen Metro website.
Regional train services the airport, Malmö and Helsingborg, in addition to other Zealand cities. There are InterCity-services to several cities on Fyn and in Jutland, amongst them Odense, Aalborg and Århus, in addition to trains to Hamburg and Berlin.
Although all S-trains, Regional trains and InterCity trains stop at Copenhagen Main Station (København H), the largest train station in Denmark is Nørreport Station. For tourists, Nørreport is located closer to the city with the pedestrian street Fiolstræde (which leads to Strøget), and with Nørrebro right across the lakes (Søerne). There are mostly large hotels and corporations that surround Copenhagen Main Station with the notable exception of Tivoli, whereas the city doesn't become interesting before you reach Rådhuspladsen (ca. 700 m).
Nørreport Station has Metro services in addition to the S-trains and Regional trains. Although most trains stop at Nørreport, you should always check the information on the station!
The fastest and most flexible way of seeing Copenhagen is on bike - as 40 percent of the Copenhageners use their bike everyday the city has been designed to cater for cyclists with separate bicycle lanes along most larger roads. Cyclists are often allowed to ride both ways in one way streets.
Be careful if you are not used to biking in a busy city. In Copenhagen it is a common mean of daily transportation and the locals drive fast and without room for much leeway. Don't expect to get a warning when someone wants to overtake you. Always keep to the right and look behind you before you overtake someone - otherwise you could cause some nasty bicycle accidents.
In the center of the city, you can also get around by the free public city-bikes. These are specially painted by various sponsors, and are very simple bikes that you can find on special stands near some important places like the main train station, the Tivoli park, the port and some others. After you insert a 20DKK coin, you can take the bike and go where you want as long as you stay in the inner part of the city marked on a plan that you will get with the bike. When you return the bike to some stand again (not necessarily the same one), you will get your 20DKK coin back. During winter periods, though, you will not be able to find (m)any bikes, as they are being repaired in the local prisons as part of a 'community service'.
The bikes usually come with a map on which the main attractions are marked. The map also marks the borders of the city within which you are allowed to ride the bike. If you are caught outside these borders, you could be faced with a fine (around 1000 DKK).
Please don't take away city-bikes that you see somewhere not on a stand, because there are high chances that somebody will soon return for it and by taking it away, you would not only deprive him of his mean of transport, but also of his 20DKK coin.
The city bikes are not the most comfortable bikes in the world (they have massive tyres), and you cannot always rely on finding one in the stands - they might be in use.
The city bikes have, however, become sort of a Copenhagen landmark. Thus president Bill Clinton was presented with City Bike One as the city's official gift during his official visit in 1997. It was specially designed with the presidential seal on its wheels.
As an alternative to the city bikes you can rent a far more comfortable bike than the city bikes. You can find a little bike rental shop called CPH bike rentalon a side-street to Nansensgade on Turesensgade 10, 5 minutes from Norreport station. They rent out bikes on a daily basis and by that they finance the shipment of used bikes to Africa. They also arrange city tours and sell picnic baskets. Their prices start at 60 kroner for 6 hours bike rent. Another bicycle shop are at the Central Railroad Station, where prices start at 75 Danish kroner a day/ 340 kroner a week. At Højbro Plads (next to McDonalds at Strøget) you can find rickshaws for hire with a driver, who will often be trained in providing tourist information as you stroll along.
Taxis are abundant throughout the city, but they are pricey and the wait to get one can be long on a Friday or Saturday night. You can hail a taxi on the street, or call for one to come pick you up at a specific address at a specific time. At crucial traffic junctures throughout the city, there are special taxi areas, where taxis hold in line to pick up customers. Except for a very long trip, it is not common (or recommended) to haggle about the price. If you wish to pay with credit card, you must present it for the driver at the beginning of the trip.
Greater Copenhagen Taxi Companies
You can get a one day ticket for the harbour tour, then hop on and off all day. A great way to se the fortress 'Trekroner', Christiania and the old city. See http://www.canaltours.dk/DCT/EN/Waterbus/
Check out Strøget, a pedestrian mall linking the streets of Østergade, Nygade, Vimmelskaftet, and Frederiksberggade that runs through the center of the city from Rådhuspladsen to Kgs Nytorv and Nørreport. You won't find any Copenhageners here who aren't working in the shops or just passing through, and the place is very touristy - but also loaded with excellent up-scale Scandinavian fashion shops and design stores (e.g. Georg Jensen, Illum and Royal Copenhagen)
Visit Fields, the biggest shopping centre in Scandinavia. Take the train to the Airport (Kastrup/Airport) or Malmö and get off at Ørestad Station or go by the Metro to Vestamager and get off at Ørestad station (though it should be noted that most, if not all, of the shops at Fields can be found on Strøget as well).
Good bets for quality one-stop shopping in the inner city: department stores Illum (on Amagertorv on Strøget, at the end of the shopping street Købmagergade which runs south from Nørreport st.) and Magasin du Nord (on Kongens Nytorv at the end of Strøget; you can enter direct from the Metro station).
For less mainstream shopping, some good areas to find interesting small boutiques are: around Studiestræde and Vestergade just north of the Rådhuspladsen end of Strøget; inner Nørrebro around Ravnsborggade and Sankt Hans Torv (walk north from Nørreport station and turn right on the 2nd, 3rd or 4th street after crossing the lake) and a place very much worth visiting - Nansensgade 5 minutes from Nørreport Station, an old street with trees on either sides that has its own special community of Nansensgade-inhabitants.
Take a walk north from the station towards the lakes and turn left one block before the lakes); Vesterbrogade and Istedgade in Vesterbro (walk west from the main station on one of these roads -- you'll need to go a few blocks before hotels/sex shops/thai restaurants turn into more interesting territory); Østerbro around Classensgade and Willemoesgade (these come off the main road Østerbrogade directly across from the eastern end of the easternmost city lake, Sortedams Sø).
Best bets for out-of-hours shopping (apart from the ubiquitous 7-11 and small kiosks): the shops at Central station (offering books and CDs, camping gear, photographic equipment, cosmetics, gifts) are open until 8pm, 7 days a week. Large shopping centres and department stores (e.g. Fields, Fisketorvet, Illum, Magasin) open on Sundays around once a month (usually the first Sunday, right after everyone gets paid!) and more often at peak sale periods.
Plus size clothing can found in the following shops H&M (Fields and Strøget), Nannaxl in Fisketorvet, or Venus & Mars XL in Fields. Søstrene Nielsen is a upmarket store a few blocks off the upmarket end of Strøget.
Brunch is a Copenhagen institution and most cafes will offer it at least on weekends for upwards of 80 kr.
The main tourist area is around Nyhavn while another popular area with many cafes and restaurants is around the old University.
For a range of interesting bars and cafes head to Nørrebro (north and across the lakes from Nørreport station.) From the main street Nørrebrogade either turn left on Blågårds Plads (try Props for a cosy glass of wine on rickety chairs, or Cafe Apotek for interesting imported beers, quirky decor and cheap live music) or right onto Fælledvej to Sankt Hans Torv (as well as the obvious places on the square, there are plenty of places on small streets around, from traditional Danish pubs to trendy cocktail bars and microbreweries).
Vesterbro, Christianshavn (including Christiania), and Frederiksberg are other good, relatively lively areas to explore. Østerbro is quieter but there are some 'nice' places: the French cafe on the north side of the lake is a great place to enjoy a quiet beer while looking at swans; Panzon on Rosenvængets Alle (near Trianglen) is a good place to splurge on a glass of wine. In the central shopping area head south of Strøget to parallel-running Strædet where there are a number of cosy cafes. If you stay near Nørreport Station it is worthwhile to pay a visit to the bar/cafe Bankeråt in Ahlefeldtsgade, the "interior decoration" supplied by a local artist who places stuffed animalheads on dressed up mannequin dolls - eyecatching. Very popular place with the locals.
Note that Danish 'cafes' are equally ready to serve coffees or beer and wine. At most places the beer on tap is either Carlsberg or Tuborg. In either case there will be a choice of the normal pilsner, and then a slightly redder Special or Classic. Some might also offer wheat or dark beer. A large beer costs 40-50 DKK or so most places in central Copenhagen, but some places on charge DKK 20-30, especially on weekdays or early hours. Unless you come from elsewhere in Scandinavia don't frighten yourself by trying to work out what this costs in your home currency. If you are on a budget you could follow the example of local teenagers and get primed with bottled beer from a supermarket or kiosk (3-7 DKK for a 330 mL bottle). It is legal and very popular to drink beer in public (not on public transport, although it will be accepted if you are not showing drunk behaviour), so buy a beer, sit on a park bench or Nyhavn and enjoy the Danish life.
If you want to watch some rugby or Manchester United there are some expat Irish/British pubs in the inner city. The Globe on Nørregade has a cosy library and does good food; The Dubliner near Amagertorv on Strøget (main walking street) is cavernous and raucous. Or try McGinty's, an authentic Scottish pub, on Vester Voldgade just 100m from the Town Hall Square, expecially pay it a visit when Manchester United plays as it is the Danish hangout for the Danish fans.
For a coastal city Copenhagen has surprisingly few places where you can enjoy a water view with your beer or coffee. Nyhavn is rather crowded and touristy (imitate the locals on a sunny day by buying beer from a kiosk and dangling your legs over the water). There are a couple of swanky places on Langelinie (near the little Mermaid) and the cafe at the base of the Black Diamond has a lovely outlook over the canal. In spring and summer a few cafes on the north side of the city lakes put out tables, chairs and blankets(!) by the water for beer-drinking and swan-watching.
Copenhagen has a very active nightlife where the party goes on all night. Start an evening by drinking beers or cocktails in one of the trendy spots around Istedgade on Vesterbro, or Studiestræde or Gothersgade in the city center. For late night clubbing, most places will be half empty before 1-2 am. and stay open until 5-6 am. Some areas where a number of night clubs can be found is Boltens Gård in Gothersgade and Rådhuspladsen (main city square). Night clubs usually charge DKK 40-80 for entrance and additional DKK 10-20 for cloakrooms. A pint of beer will normally cost you around DKK 40-55. Most nightclubs have age retrictions of minimum 18-20 years on Wednesday-Friday and 20-23 years on Saturday. It is also possible to get more infomation and a full list of clubs on the mobilephone on the address wap.mobileclubbing.net.
Some of the best places for evening drinks are:
Some of the best places for late night clubbing are:
Operas, classical concerts, ballets and more. Tickets from 80 DKK
Mostly rock, pop and electronical.
Mostly underground music - rock, electronical, balkan,indie, reggae(every sunday) and more.
Mostly rock and metal
World music
Various rythmic music
Jazz
Varous underground