• Český Krumlov State Castle and Chateau [6]

The Český Krumlov castle complex is the most-visited site in town. You can walk through the castle complex for free, or you can pay for either a guided tour of the interiors and the unique Castle Baroque Theater or pay a small entrance fee to walk up to the top of the castle tower. Plan at least two hours for your visit, and buy supplies for a picnic lunch in the castle gardens at the grocery across the ulice from the castle entrance on Latrán. The best approach to the castle is from Latrán. Walk through the red iron gates to the first castle courtyard that houses the Unios Tourist Information center, public washrooms, a souvenir shop, Doxa Galerie, and in the summer months, a tropically inspired mixed drink stand serving up mojitos, caprinhas, and daquiris. As you approach the castle, you cross the Bear Moat, where the famous Krumlov bears gambol about lazily. Put a few coins in the slot to help keep them fat and happy. The second castle courtyard features the entrance to the castle tower (35 crowns). After slogging up the vertiginous staircase, you are treated to a 360-degree view of the town. Here is also a small fountain, and the main ticket office where you can book scheduled tours of the interior to the castle and the one-of-a-kind Baroque Theatre. The restaurant Maselnice, across from the ticket office, is a good place to stop for refreshment. Tours of the castle interior begin in the third castle courtyard, where you will find another souvenir store and the entrance to the Wenceslas Cellars (60 crowns), which now houses modern ceramic art pieces. Plaštovy Most, or the “Cloaked Bridge” is covered by a walkway that leads from the Castle to the Baroque Theatre, and affords another sweeping view of the town. Continue to walk uphill and you will find the entrance to the monumental castle gardens. A newly restored fountain, maze of hedgerows, a revolving theatre [7] and a Medieval-style restaurant, Marketa beckon. At the far end of the castle gardens, you’ll find a lush duck pond, situated in a stand of moody, gnarled trees. This is the perfect picnic spot.

• The old town

Český Krumlov is a jumble of 750 years of architectural design, and for this reason was included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. Part of the fun is to get lost in its maze of cobbled ulices, while the Vltava River rushes along from almost every direction, adding to the confusion. Walking the length of Latrán from Budějovická Gate to the town square, Náměstí Svornosti, up Horní and across the bridge to the Barbakán, will take about an hour if you’re interested in stopping and gawping at sites.

By bus

From Prague (and other nearby cities or towns of Bohemia), getting to Český Krumlov by public bus is easier, faster, and cheaper than the train. Prague has three major bus stations: Na Knízecí (near the Anděl metro station), Florenc (metro lines B and C), and Roztyly (metro line C). A one-way journey takes around three hours, and costs 172 Kc (as of September 2007). Depending on its route, you will also pass through some interesting towns such as Tabor and almost certainly České Budějovice. Upon arriving in Český Krumlov, there are two bus stops: one first is north of the castle, the second is the main terminal and is located east of the main square. Both stations are about a five to ten minute walk from the main square--from the north, walk down Latrán Ulice, from the east, head westward and look for Horni street off the main road.

For up-to-date train and bus schedules or combinations thereof, go to the official transport website [2].

By train

You can take a train to Český Krumlov from Prague at the Hlavní Nádraží train station (Praha hl.n.) for about 224 Kc (and for two or more people, group rates or sleva pro skupiny are available). The trip takes about four to four and a half hours in total, and usually requires a transfer at České Budějovice, as direct trains to Český Krumlov are not common. To transfer by train, take a local train toward Volary, which will take an hour to make the sluggish but beautiful 28 km trip. Alternatively, you can transfer by bus; the main bus terminal in České Budějovice is just 300 meters down the street from the train station. A bus takes around 45 minutes, not including transfer time which can vary.

The train station in Český Krumlov is located north of the main square and the castle, about a 15-20 minute downhill walk away. Taxis often wait in the parking lot for tired travelers--it may be worth the 100 Kc ride into town, especially at night.

From Destinations South

If you're looking to travel to Cesky Krumlov from any points to the south of the Czech Republic, its easier and faster to use Linz, Austria as a jumping off point. Linz is on the main rail line and has high speed trains coming and going on a regular basis, so getting there is fast and easy. From that point you can make arrangements with Shuttle Lobo [[3]] to drive you through to Cesky Krumlov. The Shuttle service is inexpensive and comfortable and saves you plenty of time. The train line from Cesky Budovice is slow and crowded, and will take much longer should you choose to come from that direction.

Ambling around the town's crooked ulices is the best way to get lost in Český Krumlov's 750 years of history. Bring solid walking shoes for the uneven cobblestones.

In the summer months, a great way to see the town is from the river; rent a comfortable raft at Maleček Boat Rentals on Rooseveltova, or take their historical wooden raft tour with guides and commentary in English. [4]

For the adventurous, an inner tube ride around the town is just the thing. Many of the local hostels supply these rubber rings free of charge, or you can rent one directly at the Vltava Travel Agency on Kajovská [5] Make sure you get proper instructions on how to navigate the weirs through town, or you could end up with some small injuries as a souvenir of your visit.

Many good biking paths lead you to and from Český Krumlov, but you're not encouraged to ride through the streets once you get here. Park and lock your bike and enjoy not pedaling for a while.

There are no bad places to eat in Český Krumlov, but some are better than others. A good rule of thumb is to stay away from the tourist restaurants that charge more than 40 crowns for a half-liter of beer. The following restaurants are a good value (listed alphabetically):

• Hospoda and Deli 99, At Věžní with Latrán (adjacent to the Budejovicka Gate - main entrance to the old town). Whether you are staying at the adjacent hostel or not, Hospoda 99 makes it a perfect spot to sit, relax, drink and enjoy some of the best Czech and American-inspired dishes in town. Join the locals and guests on the lovely terrace or inside with a lounge, good food, good service (staff speaks english)… and all at reasonable prices (pint of beer for 28 Kc). The kitchen closes at 23:00 but the bar does not… Right across the street is Deli 99 with great coffee, fresh baked bread, delicious sandwiches combo, bagels and pastries to sate small hungers. Illy coffee available to go or to savor in a comfortable room while reading a newspaper or viewing some locals’ photos of their travels.
• Krčma v Šatlavské, Šatlavská Ulice (around the corner from the town square) . This cozy tavern on the site of the old jailhouse is filled with tourists and locals alike, so try going on off-hours to enjoy the ambiance by the fire. Onion soup in a bread bowl followed by some meats grilled on the fire is a good bet.
• Laibon, Parkán Ulice (two blocks from the town square on the right, before you reach the wooden bridge). Český Krumlov’s veggie haven and tea house. Even meat eaters enjoy the healthy departure from fried pork and take a stab at the creatively cooked grains.
• Maštal. Tucked away next to the Infocentrum on the town square, this establishment serves up quality food, and lots of it. Standard Czech fare, and a good range of salads. If you’re not so hungry, ask for the poloviční porce, or half-portion. Half-portions should be half the price of the normal-sized meal.
• Na Louži, Kájovska Ulice. Unlike many other restaurants in the Czech Republic, service here comes with a smile. Reasonably priced fare piled high with fresh vegetables and potatoes makes even the simplest entrée fit for a king.
• Nonna Gina, Klašterní Ulice, (across from the castle gates). This place is owned by a Sicilian-Czech couple serves the most authentic Italian dishes in town. Here you’ll find pizzas, salads and gnocchi to nosh, and even homemade tiramisu.
• U Dvau Maryi, Parkán Ulice (two blocks from the town square on the right, before you reach the wooden bridge). The building is owned by one of the town’s leading experts in historical preservation. Homemade delicacies made from old Czech recipes and offer a good selection of vegetarian offerings. The best deal is their Bohemian Platter with samplings of almost every dish on their menu for either meat eaters or vegetarians.

• Cikanská Jízba, Dlouhá ulice. Cold Pilsner Urquell, hot Gypsy goulash, and great atmosphere made by a mix of travelers and die-hard locals. On the weekends, live Gypsy music swells the space, and bodies melt into the bar.
• Dobrá Čajovna, Latrán ulice (across from the castle gates). For those who would rather sample a list of more than 200 types of teas from all over the world such as one to “drink with slim concubines.”
• Eggenberg Brewery, Pivovarská ulice. Locally-brewed Eggenberg beer tastes best here. Try the kvasnice, the yeast beer, if available.
• Horor Bar, Másna ulice (one block from the town square, heading towards the wooden bridge). Never ending trick-or-treats. Ask the barmaid with the darkened eye sockets for skoumavky for your table: little test-tubes filled with blood-red liquor.
• Travellers’ Hostel Bar, Soukenická ulice. Anything goes, and everyone does. Dancing until the cows come home, and even after they’ve been put to pasture. On weekends, local Czech bands strum their stuff.
• U Baby, Rooseveltova ulice (next door to Hostel Krumlov House). A local bar for students, die-hards, and the odd lost traveler. On offer: Gambrinus, Pilser Urquell, impromptu acoustic guitar jams, and hedonistic, roasted pig knuckle gorge-fests.