
The city has long had a highly mixed population of different ethnicities, including large numbers of ethnic Croats and Serbs. As a result it suffered greatly during the war between the Croats and the Serb-dominated Yugoslav National Army in the early 1990's. The three-month siege of the city in 1991 and the subsequent occupation by Serbia destroyed or damaged much of the city's infrastructure. As a result, it is difficult to find employment, and much of the population has left; around 30,000 still remain. Those who remain in the city live together nonviolently, although there is still animosity between ethnic groups.
The war damage is still very obvious throughout most of the city.
Hospital: The hospital in Vukovar is the same one used during the siege of the city. The above-ground portion of the hospital has been restored into a typical modern facility, but the basement area (which was the only part of the hospital used during the siege due to the continuous shelling of the above-ground parts of the hospital) has been made into a museum. The museum is very well-designed and gives a chilling feel of what the hospital was like during the siege. While you're in the hospital, if you're lucky you may see Dr. Vesna Bosanac, who was the hospital director during the war and still works there and is regarded as something of a national hero in Croatia because she saved many lives.
Museum: The museum in Vukovar is horribly damaged from the war, but it is still in use, and there are plans to reconstruct the museum in 2009. Aside from the war damage, the museum has various exhibits to see. Many of the pieces are archaeological artifacts, including a right-footed ceramic shoe from several thousand years ago that the museum staff seem to be particularly proud of.
Ovčara massacre site: The Ovčara field is a short drive from the main area of Vukovar. After the fall of the city to the Serb-dominated Yugoslav National Army, the Serb soldiers gathered 200 of the hospital's doctors and injured patients and massacred them in the Ovčara field. Today at the massacre site there is a memorial and a nearby museum.
Cemetery: The cemetery has the graves of many who died during and after the siege. At the center of the cemetery is a memorial statue. The statue has a symbolic flame at its center, and the stones present the image of the Christian cross facing outward in all directions. While walking amongst the graves, there are several interesting things to consider: Graves labeled 'Hravtski Branitelj' are the graves of untrained volunteers who helped defend the city. People who died after November 18th were usually tortured to death. There are also many graves where you can see that an entire family died on the same day.|
WARNING: There are active mines in the woods around the Vukovar cemetery. Only walk through the cemetery's paved and grassy areas. Avoid the woods. |
Crkva Sv. Filipa i Jakova: This is the main Catholic cathedral in the city. It was horribly damaged during the war. There have been slight reconstructions since the war (Namely, a simple roof was added in order to keep out the rain. The church also has a new organ.), although the cathedral is generally the same as it was in 1998. The walls of the church still bear many holes from mortar shells and grenades, and there is still graffiti that was left by the Serb soldiers, including images of Orthodox Christian crosses and a slogan that translates into English as "God forgives. Serbs don't." If you have extra time and money, you may want to hire a Croatian translator and arrange a visit with the priest, as he is extremely knowledgeable about Vukovar, the siege, and what occurred at the cathedral during the siege.
By bus: The city has direct bus connections with Vinkovci.
By train: Trains travel to Vukovar from Vinkovci. However, they do not run frequently, and they stop in the Borovo naselje station, which is about 3 miles from the main area of Vukovar.
One may consider traveling to Osijek (an hour's drive from Vukovar) by train or air, then proceeding to Vukovar from Osijek. Highways lead to Vukovar from all directions.