For divers the main reason to come to Larnaca is the wreck of the Zenobia (watch video[2]), a ro-ro ferry that sunk in 1980 on her maiden voyage only a few hundred meters from the harbor due to a fault in the ballast computer. Fully laded with trucks and their cargo, the ship now lies on its side at a depth of 42 meters, with the top of the wreck at 18m and thus easily accessible even to PADI Advanced Open Water divers. If your flight comes in right, you can even see the shadow of the wreck as you land at Larnaca airport!

• Dive-In Cyprus (Seagate Hotel, 132 Piale Pascha; tel. 24-627469; [3]) is a PADI 5-star dive center that specializes in dives to the Zenobia, and can also arrange nitrox and penetration dives for the technical diver. Figure on around £18 for a dive.

• The Church of St. Lazarus (Ayios Lazaros Sq), an Orthodox church dating to the 9th century, is reputedly built around the tomb of the biblical Lazarus, brother of Mary.

• The Larnaca Salt Lake is to the west of town near the airport. In winter (November to March), flocks of pink flamingos can be seen here.

• The Hala Sultan Tekke mosque is perched by the side of the Salt Lake. The tomb of Umm Haram, the foster mother of Mohammed, is said to be here.

Larnaca International Airport (LCA) is the largest airport on Cyprus, located 6 km to the west of the city center. Taxis to the city take 15 minutes, there are also scheduled city buses.

Shared taxis (dolmus) connect Larnaca to Nicosia and Limassol.

Larnaca is a thin ribbon of a town and you can walk around most of it. The seaside Larnaca Promenade (Phinikoudes) is particularly pleasant for a stroll in the evening.

By law, taxis should charge by the meter, but many cabbies will refuse to use it. Metered fares should be 65 cent; to get in plus 22 cent/km, night surchages apply after midnight.

The nearby village of Lefkara is famous for its lace and silverware, and Larnaca being the nearest large town to the village, sells both in plentiful supply.

Independent jewellers and watchmakers are abundant, particularly among and just off the main Ermes/Ermou Street.

• Oro Fino Jewellery, Pavlou Valsamaki 26, tel. 24-654666. 50 metres from Foinikoudes beach, near St. Lazaurs. Italian and Greek designs, diamonds to zircons, precious to semi-precious stones.

The beaches of Larnaca are littered with identikit seafood restaurants catering to tourists. The easiest way to find a good place is to simply walk along until you find a restaurant packed not with tourists, but with Cypriots!

• Militzis (42 Piale Pascha, tel. 24-655867) is a long-running favorite serving honest Cypriot fare (read: meat and potatoes) washed down with their own wine. No points for presentation, but the food is good and the restaurant is often packed. Figure on £5-10 for a meal.

• Hobo's (Phinikoudes Promenade) is a lively Cafe/Restaurant popular with many Cypriots, right on the main promenade. You can't miss it, and its often full but doesn't take telephone reservations. Food is varied from Cypriot to International Cuisine.

• Kantara, Rendez-Vous, and Ganga restaurants on Dhekelia Road are probably the best restaurants in Larnaca. More expensive than the rest, but well worth it. Both Kantara and Rendez-Vous have a good selection of international wines (Cyprus wines are an acquired taste ...to say the least!)

In the city centre an area just off the main promenade called "Laiki Yeitonia" fulfils the need for most Bars and Small scale Nightclubs. Club Memphis is the most popular of these, along with Scaliano.

Driving about 15-20 minutes away from the City Centre to the East in the direction of Ayia Napa is the Larnaca-Dhekelia Road. This is the main 'strip' for high quality hotels, nightclubs, bars, etc, and is where most British Tourists can be found.

The Blue Pine Bar near the American Academy has a huge selection of spirits (all real which is unusual for Cyprus) and has a real atmosphere. The decor is wood and dim lighting and lots of Jack Daniels and Blues music paraphernalia. Comes alive after 10pm. The Bar used to be located on Dhekelia Road but moved several years ago. By far the best bar in Laranaca for chilled music and spirits.