The tourist office is down by the river, to the left of the river bridge. They recognise two major tourist attractions; the Citadel and the caves.

The citadel was built to be nasty (with cannons) to anyone who abused the road bridge. There has been a bridge across the river here for several hundred years. You can go up a gondala, or up the stairs; I met people who had just come up the stairs, who were panting. If you arrive in winter, speaking English, you will be given a map and defined as your own guide. Provided you are happy to cross the 'do not cross' chains and go into the 'only with guide' places, this works well except for:

• the dungeons; read the map carefully and go in through the exit, between the two cannons
• the dugout, where the lights are usually off; wait in the armoury and go in with a guided party; tip the guide (I gave him 2 euro) so he's not too grumpy with you being your own guide for the rest of the time

The caves are in a mixture of limestone and a dark grey rock that I did not recogise, and the guide could not name. There is a river at the bottom, which has gradually worked its way down. They told a story about the whole human contents of the village evacuating suddenly into the caves, in April 1944, for eight days, to avoid the war, and all surviving. It would have been a most uncomfortable eight days, but I'm sure it's better than being shot.