Travel information

GeneralDoSeeGet InGet AroundShopEatDrink

Chittagong is a fairly big, spread out town, and the largest international seaport in the country. Like Dhaka the streets are filled with masses of rickshaws, though the city puts in a little more effort to keep its streets and sidewalks clean. Foreigners will notice a distinct increase in nuisance from beggars and the people are slightly less friendly than in other parts of the country.

The city is very polluted. Taking a thirty minute ride through town will leave a black stain on a tissue rubbed on any part of your skin. Your clothes will become dirty very quickly when you are moving around. Local people understand and make allowances for this.

The busiest part of town is the area around the train station and Station Road, while things get a little more bearable as you move further north. GEC Circle is the intersection of Zakir Hossain Rd, O. R. Nizam Rd and CDA Avenue, about 3 km north of the train station, and is the center of middle to upper class life with a variety of good restaurants and shopping.

Chittagong is a conservative place. Local women tend to dress in modest clothing and don't like to shake hands with men. This does not apply to the upper class who are very westernised. Local people aren't offended when foreigners don't comply with the expectations of local people. Foreigners drinking alcohol or foreign women wearing skirts which show their bare legs aren't going to upset people. This is true in other parts of Bangladesh and reflects the tolerant and gentle nature of the Bangladeshi people.

In the more affluent neighborhoods like Khulshi and Nasirabad local women are more westernised. The parties that let women have fun are mostly indoors, and Chittagong Club or Hotel Agrabad are fairly happening places at that.

The Chittagonian enthusiasm for inviting people to massive feasts is a bit of legend both locally and elsewhere in Bangladesh. Known as mezbani these feasts feature a tremendously hot curry, usually of beef. If you're not used to it, approach with caution.

There are a few amusement parks and paublic parks in Chittagong:

  • Karnafully Sishu Park (Agrabad,Chittagong)
  • Zia Sishu Park (Circuit House,Chittagong)
  • Mini Bangladesh (Chandgaon,Chittagong)
  • Biplobi Uddan (2 number gate,Chittagong)
  • Jatisongho Park (Panchlaish, Chittagong)
  • Patenga Beach: Sandy beach at the meeting place of the roaring sea and the river Karnaphuli. It looks more beautiful from Naval Academy Road which is just beside the Shah Amanat International Airport.
  • Foy's Lake: Set amidst panoramic surroundings, this ideal spot for outings and picnics is thronged by thousands of visitors. This Lake has been created in the natural environment in 1924 by the initiative of the then Assam-Bengal Railway. This lake has been created by building a dam based on a plan by an English engineer Mr. Foy. Now an amusement park is established there. The zoo is next door.
  • Shrine of Baizid Bostami: This holy shrine attracts a large number of visitors and pilgrims. At its base there is a large pond with several hundred tortoises floating in the water. According to tradition, these turtles are descendants of evil spirits (djinns) who were cast into this shape because they incurred the wrath of the great saint who visited the place about 1100 years ago.
  • World War II Cemetery: In this well-preserved cemetery at quiet and picturesque place lie buried over 700 soldiers from Commonwealth countries and Japan. The War Cemetery is located in a hillside sloping place, in the south-western corner of Chittagong Medical College Hospital, beside the Badshah Mia Road of the city. The total area of this cemetery is eight acres, which is protected and supervised by the Commonwealth Graves Commission.
  • Ethnological Museum: Shows a mix of tribal artifacts. The Ethnological Museum of Chittagong was established in the first half of nineteen sixties. The museum contains four galleries and a small hall. It is a little dark. Some sections contain mock ups of 'village life' for the different tribal areas with life size dolls. These are reminiscent of the museum in the film 'Planet of the Apes'.
  • Baitul Falah The largest mosque in Chittagong.
  • Chandanpura Mosque: Situated in the old city, the multi-domed mosque is an architectural sight to behold.
  • Chittagong College: Situated in the old city, is one of the oldest colleges in Bangladesh (estd 1869) and also one of the prestigious academies.
  • Mohsin College:Situated beside Chittagong college. The College area covers almost 31 acres of land decked with beautiful landscape. The college Campus wears a garb of natural panoramic beauty. It is housed in eight metalled/pucca buildings on an extensive beautiful campus in the lap of nature. A beautiful play ground a stretches to the south of college gate, supplying the students a great scope to participate in different games and sports. The college campus upholds the ancient architectural beauty in the shape of a building built by the Portuguese.
  • Court Building: Situated on the Fairy Hill, this building commands a magnificent bird's eye view of Chittagong city, particularly at night. The Court building was built immediately after the East India Company conquered and declared Chittagong as a separate administrative area in 1773. The building is huge, over 250 thousand square feet and has hundreds of rooms.

Nearby

  • The shipbreaking yards near the Indian Ocean are Chittagong's international claim to fame, but for the wrong reasons; these are considered one of the most polluted places on Earth with highly dangerous practices and hazardous working conditions. Green Peace is actively campaigning against them and trying to bring this issue further into the light. Tourists are not usually welcome, but some travelers have been able to sweet talk the gate-keeper and get amazing photos of massive ships being dismantled for parts and steel. There are many breaking yards stretching for miles, so start at one end and try your luck until you have success. Keep your wits about you, safety practices leave something to be desired. It's also wise to keep your camera hidden until you're out of view of the officials, lest you be mistaken for a journalist out to do them harm. Bus #6 runs from Station Road, or you could hire an auto-rickshaw. (See also Alang, India).

By air

Shah Amanat International Airport (ICAO: CGP) is modern and clean and serves as Chittagong's international airport besides domestic services to and from Dhaka and Sylhet. It is the 2nd busiest in Bangladesh. Situated in Patenga, it has international services to destinations such as Dubai, Kolkata, Yangon, Muscat and Bangkok. Formerly known as MA Hannan International Airport, but was renamed on April 2, 2005 by the Government of Bangladesh. Major airlines that serve the airport include Biman Bangladesh Airlines, GMG Airlines, Thai Airways International, Oman Air, United Airways, Best Air and Royal Bengal Airlines.

By train

Trains run to Comilla and Akhaura, from where the routes to Dhaka and Sylhet diverge. The train station is on Station Road just west of Jubilee Rd. Chittagong is a terminal station on the metre gauge eastern section of the Bangladesh Railway. The headquarters of this railway are located here. Train journeys are, in general, cheaper than bus journeys.

By bus

There are 2 spots in the city where the major private companies operate from and have offices - just to the south of GEC Circle on CDA Ave, and on Station Rd near Hotel Golden Inn. Greenline, Silkline and Shohag are the nicest and have frequent services to Dhaka (6 hours) and Cox's Bazar (3 hours). Greenline also offers the only direct bus to Sylhet (Tk 550, 6 hours).

Local buses to Cox's Bazar (Tk 140, 3 hours) run frequently throughout the day from Cinema Palace Bus Station, about 1km north of the Station Rd area.

By boat

  • BIWTC has an office and launches its ferries from Sadarghat, about 1km south of the train station down Sadarghat Rd. Barisal is the main destination, from where you can continue to Dhaka.

Transport in Chittagong is similar to that of the country's capital Dhaka. There are various bus systems, taxis, and as well as smaller 'Baby' or 'CNG' taxis which are basically tricycle-structured motor vehicles. Also, there are the traditional manual rickshaws which are very common.

  • Cycle-rickshaws are the natural choice, and cost around Tk 5 per kilometer.
  • Walking is also a possibility as the town isn't too confusing, but keep and eye out as the streets can be very busy, especially around Station Rd and Jubilee Rd.
  • Aarong Handicrafts has a large branch on CDA Ave just north of GEC Circle. It is well stocked with men's and women's clothing and housewares at medium to expensive prices.

The people of Bangladesh love oily food. This can be a problem for foreigners and lead to upset stomachs. If you are a foreigner you should consider sticking with better restaurants and eating in large hotels. Never eat salad which comes with your meal as you will not know if it has been washed in pure water. All but a couple of restaurants in town use tap water to wash salad and this is a recipe for explosive diarrhoea.

One oddity in Bangladesh is that restaurants advertise themselves as, for example, "Zaman Hotel and Restaurant" but do not operate a hotel. Where you eat at one of these establishments you can tease them by demanding a room. NB: one room stores also have signboards advertising themselves as 'Department stores'.

  • Bonanza, Above Aarong and opposite to the Meridian (GEC circle), Don't know. The best restaurant in town which is of international standard. Bonanza has a huge menu. Recommended for foreigners who need a break from an upset stomach. Mains Tk 300.  edit
  • The Meridian, Opposite to Bonanza (GEC circle), Don't know. The Meridian has an excellent lunch buffet for around 350 taka. The rest of the menu used to be pretty good but as of late it is better to stick to the buffet. Mains Tk 300.  edit
  • Shaad Snacks, Station Road, across the street from New Market. A friendly place serving the usual fast food snacks - rolls and buns filled with chicken, beef or vegetables, microwaved to a spongy perfection as you order. They've got a good range of sweets as well. (the food at these snack places is not healthy for foreigners) ~Tk 10.  edit
  • Shangri-La Chinese Restaurant, 39, Agrabad, 810210. Smart air-conditioned Chinese restaurant. But the place has nose dived recently and other restaurants have opened. ~Tk 300-400 per person.  edit
  • Baskin Robbins, just east of GEC Circle. One of the city's greatest redeeming qualities.
  • Sugarbun (Well food), GEC circle. Fast food place from the international chain of the same name. Selling pizza, burgers, fries plus a variety of dishes to Asian tastes in a fast food format. Sugarbun also sells coffee, cakes, bread and other snacks. ~Tk 175-250 per person.  edit
  • Pizza Hut, GEC circle up the hill towards Welmart. Pizza hut only arrived in Chittagong in 2006. Before that people had to go all the way to Dhaka for pizza. ~Tk 230-500 per medium pizza.  edit
  • Zaman Hotel (there are 13 Zaman hotels in Chittagong), just north of GEC Circle, on west side of street, 0189 649 138. The menu contains no foreign dishes and this is not a place where foreigners typically eat, though it falls at the top end of middle class Bangladeshi restaurants. The place is clean, the food is OK, the service is good. You can ponder the wisdom in the quote on the menu: "For super disk with quality food to avoid cooking please step with whose family at Zaman Hotel." There are two restaurants of the same name on the same block - this one is the most southerly, with the huge neon sign on the roof. Mains Tk 40-100.  edit
  • Zaman Hotel (Agrabad), On the Agrabad circle, Don't know. The Zaman hotel at the Agrabad circle has the best food of the Zaman hotels. The Chicken Biriyani is particularly good coming with a large piece of chicken, an egg, rice, and a delicious sauce. The environment is more worn than hotel Zaman at the GEC circle. But the food is better. Since there are virtually no good places to eat on a budget in Agrabad it is worth checking this place out. Tk 50-100 for a meal.  edit

Alcoholic beverages are available at five-star hotels in Bangladesh as well as a number of private clubs. Three hotels in Chittagong have a drinks license; the Agrabad hotel, the Silmoon hotel and the Peninsula hotel. While all the hotels are expensive for drinks the Peninsula is the most expensive by far.

There are three private clubs in Chittagong. The premiere club is the Chittagong Club which is located at number one Empress Road. The Chittagong club has a drinks license and serves foreign alcohol in addition to local gin, vodka and whisky. Chittagong Club membership is closed but foreigners can apply for "temporary membership" for up to two years.

The Chittagong Institute is a far smaller club but it does maintain a bar. It is located in Jamal Khan road.

The Catholic club opens membership to all persons for a small fee but membership applications are only accepted once a year (I think during December). It maintains a small bar serving local drinks.

It is possible to buy alcoholic beverages, ranging from local brews to smuggled beer and counterfeit brand alcohol. Local booze is available legally at government licensed shops. There is one in Agrabad on Sheik Mujib Rahman road. It is tucked into an alley way a short distance from the first floor "Siemens" showroom. Counterfeit branded alcohol is available from illegal traders in Kulshie and other area. Deaths have been reported from consumption of adulterated liquor. Headaches and illness are more common. Smuggled booze is sometimes available from the sea beach.

Readers should note that the 'Expats Inn' has closed it's doors. So no more pub nights!