Battambang is known for its statues which seemingly decorate every public place. Most are of animals (mythical and real) and divinities (also mythical and real?)

The most famous of these statues is on the main road in from Phnom Penh and is of an ancient Khmer King holding a stick which he used to quell rebellions in the Battambang area. The name of the town / province comes from this legend.

The town also has a number of fine colonial buildings along the river including a very grand French era governors residence.

Around Battambang:

• Phnom Sampeu, a hill with the killing caves of the Khmer Rouge, a few Buddhist caves and a monastery with two Stupas on the hilltop. Entry is US$2, covering also Wat Banan.

• Wat Banan, the so-called mini-Angkor wat, an impressive flight of stairs leads up to a dilapidated Angkor-type temple which is still in use as a buddhist shrine.

• Wat Baydamram, a temple, where hundreds of fruit bats live in trees under the protection of the monks.

• Wat Ek Phnom, another Angkor-type temple ruin, about 15 km north west of Battambang. The road goes alongside lovely small rivers bordered by trees and small villages and is in general a very nice area. Approaching Wat Ek Phnom you suddenly encounter a giant buddha statue in the wat. The grounds of the Wat also have an Angkorian era temple which is in relatively good shape and with some interesting carvings.

Several opportunities to explore villages exist just south of town. The Cultural village of Watkor, just a few km south of the town center has several "ancient wooden houses" from the early 20th century. Further south are the agricultural villages of Kompong Seyma, and Ksach Puoy. For info call District Administration Battambang: 012.881.516/016.666.111

By air

Battambang does have an airport, but it's been closed since the road to Phnom Penh was sealed.

By road

Buses and share taxis run to many destinations, including Phnom Penh, Siem Reap (via Sisophon), and the Thai border at Poipet/Aranyaprathet (also via Sisophon) and Pailin.

The Phnom Penh - Battambang - Sisophon road is sealed and well maintained, and the bridges are not prone to collapse (unlike their counterparts on the unsealed roads). Travelling by car, it takes around four hours to get to Phnom Penh, and just under an hour to get to Sisophon. Buses take a little longer.

The Poipet - Sisophon - Siem Reap road however is not sealed, and its condition varies considerably, depending on the time of year (rainfall) and maintainance. Best case scenario for getting from Sisophon to Poipet or Siem Reap by car is just under an hour, and about double that by bus; but it can take much longer when conditions are not so favourable, and even more so if there are problems with any of the bridges.

The Battambang to Pailin road is terrible, unsealed and full of potholes.

By boat

Boats go to and from Siem Reap (for Angkor) daily. An interesting and very scenic journey along small rivers, the boats thread their way through numerous charming floating villages and past dozens of towering cantilevered fishing net installations. It can take as little as four hours, or over twelve, depending on the time of year (and hence the water level), however the time can be fairly accurately predicted by checking the time that the same boat arrived yesterday.

When the water level gets very low, the boats cannot get all the way to Battambang and the journey is completed by minibus or pick-up.

By rail

There is a very slow, once-weekly train service between Battambang and Phnom Penh via Pursat. The journey is scheduled to take 14 hours but may be much longer, even though the distance by rail is only 275 km. It costs US$5 one-way for foreigners.

• Phnom Penh to Battambang : Saturdays, departs 06:20, arrives 20:00
• Battambang to Phnom Penh : Sundays, departs 06:40, arrives 19:00

The train station is on the edge of the city centre (see map above), a short walk from the central market.

You can get some great bread (by French standards!) for 1000 KHR a medium-size baguette up North, between the French cultural centre and the giant statue marking the entry in Battambang from the main interprovincial road. The bread street sellers have elsewhere in town is of a much lower standard for the same price, the kind you find in Phnom Penh (baguette-shaped and sprinkled with sugar).

• Smokin' Pot (Ph.3). Mains 3000-6000 KHR. Cooking school-cum-restaurant offering a good range of Khmer and Thai food. Vegetarian-friendly.
• White Rose - almost opposite the Smoking Pot, has a huge menu, and some great fruit shakes.
• Bus Stop Guesthouse

On Street 2 next door to the White Rose Restaurant and around the corner from the Smoking Pot. The only restaurant in town that makes a full english breakfast. Whether thats Bacon and eggs, Heinz Baked Beans, Pancakes and even Vegemite for the Aussies. Great food, great prices. They even have WIFI so you can browse while you eat.