• Daming Si (Temple of Abundant Light) Rebuilt after being destroyed in the Taiping Rebellion, this temple originally dated from the 5th century AD. There is a spring next to the teahouse. Open 8am-4:45pm daily

• Hanlinyuan Museum A magnificent tomb for Liu Xu, ruler of the Guangling Kingdom. It's five stories deep, with different levels housing things like a warehouse, living quarters, and a coffin on wheels. Open 8:30am-5pm daily

• Shou Xi Hu The city's lake, it is very slim and winds through the city center. Several pavillions dot the park around the lake that was designed to mimick the west lake in Hangzhou.

• Yangzhou Museum This museum has splendid displays of things like a boat salvaged from the Grand Canal that crosses through eastern China. The museum is housed in a temple named after a Ming general who refused to surrender the city to Qing rulers, open daily 8:30-11am & 1-5pm

• Ge Yuan A lovely garden with pavillions, open 7:30am-5pm daily

• Wang Shi Xiao Yuan A lavishly furnished home with 100 rooms that belonged to a local salt merchant, open daily 8am-5pm

• Garden Tomb of Puhaddin Said to be a descendant of Mohammed, Puhaddin's grave is in an inscription-covered temple, open daily 8am-5pm

• He Yuan A cleverly-arranged garden with several teahouses, open daily 7:30am-6pm

• Wenchang Ge (Promoting Literature Pavillion) One part of the Confucian Academy, this pavillion is all that's left

There is a domestic airport in Nanjing, 37 miles southwest of the city, and buses go to either the east or west bus stations in Yangzhou. A train station, newly built in 2006, stands remote from the town's center -- roughly two kilometers further out than RT-Mart. It's not on the main rail lines, but it's easy enough to catch a connection from Nanjing or Shanghai, and the occasional Beijing express sleeper also runs through this not-quite-sleepy little city.

Buses are reliable and cheap, but many of them close up shop around 6 PM, the rest around 10 PM. Fortunately, taxis are everywhere. If your feet get tired and you want an exhilarating ride, pedicabs also abound in the city center.

For goods and necessities, there's an RT-Mart (大潤發, da run fa) on Hanjiang Road; several bus lines run there from downtown and from the local colleges. As far as Western products go, it's the only game in town -- but an Auchan, near downtown, will probably finish construction in late 2008.

One major local industry is ceramics and teaware; a few big ceramics factories and showcases can be visited here.

The big-name local dish is Yangzhou fried rice, scattered with bits of seafood and meat. It's representative of the Huaiyang cuisine. Other famous dishes include the Lion's Head, which is a giant meatball made with pork and crab.

If these choices look unappealing to you -- or if they look appealing, but you just don't eat that stuff -- try Damingsi Vegetarian Restaurant, 1802 Wenhui Road East. It's affiliated with the temple, and serves vegetable-matter simulacra of the local favorites for very reasonable prices.

The most popular local beer is called Snow, and costs around ¥2.5 for a large bottle. But should you want something with a stronger beer-flavor, the L-Mart at the Living Mall has Kirin Japanese beer, brewed in Taiwan, ¥5 a can. The Living Mall also boasts a Starbucks, semi-conveniently placed between the train station and the RT-Mart.

One expat bar of note, near the center of town: the Cellar Bar, No.8, Fengle Shangjie, Yangzhou. Only open late.