• Hash House Harriers running club meets every Sunday at 2.45pm at the railway station.

• Khmer massage, US$3 for 1 hour @ Apsara - 13 Ph. 63 (0900-2100hrs, 7 days a week). Tel: 092 294 024. Beware: although the price had an official quote in English, you may have to bargain to get the real price. Offers the local Khmer massage - a relaxing form distantly related to Thai massage. The massage environment is extremely cosy and you will even get a free platter of fruit after your massage is over.

• Lighthouse Orphanage, Around 25 minutes from the center of Phnom Penh lies this small orphanage housing 70-80 Khmers aged from 1 year through to 18 years. Visitors are always extremely welcome at this completely independent organisation - expect to be greeted with smiles and handshakes from staff, quickly followed by a tour. However one should take some form of donation, ideally a bag of rice (ie. 50kg). (Sweets are not allowed.) If using a Tuk Tuk to get out there, the driver will be more than happy to show you something to pick up along the way. The children at Lighthouse love nothing more to have a chat and practice their english/french/japanese with you, have a game of soccer, or even just pose for a few photos. Do however think about the consequences of visiting an orphanage as a "tourist attraction". Respect the children's privacy and do not disturb their lessons. [4].

• Mekong Cruises - boats leave every evening for a river cruise. Many provide snacks or dinners at sunset.

• Mekong Island - a nice trip across Phnom Penh to enjoy rural life and see weaving households in a rural area.

• Meta House art gallery - also shows films every weekend. N° 6, Phuong (St. 264), opposite Wat Botum.

• Thunder Ranch shooting range, near Cheoung Ek. Moto drivers, apparently oblivious to the reaction most visitors have, will try to include this in a trip to the killing fields. Rumors abound that cows and other farm animals used to serve as targets, but this is probably no longer the case. Prices range from US$30 for an AK-47 to US$200 for a rocket launcher.

• Sisowath Quay (often known as Riverside) is an attractive boulevard running along the banks of the Mekong and Tonle Sap. It is normally fronted by a pleasant park, however this has been torn up for floodworks and re-landscaping for much of 2008. The built-up side of the street is home to cafés and shops and the better class of bar, and is extremely popular with tourists and expat Westerners. The esplanade along the river is equally popular with Cambodians, who come here in the cool of the evening to enjoy the quasi-carnival atmosphere. It begins at the Royal Palace (or rather, at the river-front park opposite the Palace), and is perhaps best experienced in the early evening. See A Stroll on Sisowath Quay for a self-guided tour.

• The Royal Palace and the two magnificent pagodas in the Palace Grounds, the Silver Pagoda and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, are among the few public buildings in Phnom Penh really worth seeing. They were built in the 19th century with French technology and Cambodian designs, and have survived the traumas of the 20th century amazingly intact. See them early before it gets too hot. They are in any case closed 11:00-14:00, when all sensible Cambodians take a nap. Entrance fee is US$6.25 (25000 riel) for both. No extra fee for camera. No photography is allowed inside the Silver Pagoda and some of the Palace buildings. You're expected to dress decently (no bare legs or shoulders), but you can rent sarongs and oversized T-shirts for a token 1000 riel (plus US$1 deposit) at the entrance.

• The National Museum (opposite the Royal Palace; admission US$3). Contains an excellent collection of art from Cambodia's "golden age" of Angkor, and a lovely courtyard at the center. Main attraction is the statue of King Jayavarman VII (1181-1219) in mediation pose. Unfortunately, no photos may be taken. The pleasant little park in front of the Museum is the site of the annual Royal Ploughing Ceremony, at which the success or otherwise of the coming harvest is determined. You may have heard stories of sightseers carrying umbrellas inside to avoid showers of bat droppings, but alas (?), the bats moved out after the renovation of 2002.

• Wat Phnom (admission US$1) is on a hill at the center of a small park near Sisowath Quay, on St. 94. The temple itself is notable more for its historic importance than what you'll see there today, but the park is a pleasant green space and a popular gathering place for locals. A few monkeys keep quarters there as well and will help themselves to any drinks you leave unattended. If you like, take a ride on the elephant there. His owner is kind of inventory of Wat Phnom and always nice to tourists.

• Independence and Liberation memorials - impressive Buddhist-style Independence Memorial, commemorating the departure of the French in 1953, dominates the centre of the city. Nearby is the very ugly Stalin-style Liberation Memorial, marking the Vietnamese capture of the city in 1979. Although the Cambodians were glad to see the back of the Khmer Rouge, they don't like the Vietnamese much either, and have demonstrated this by neglecting the memorial for 20 years. It seems to be used mainly as a convenient urinal.

• Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21) (Street 113, Boeng Keng Kang 3, Chamkar Morn, Phnom Penh; tel. 855-23-300-698, fax 855-23-210-358) [1] was a school converted into Cambodia's most important prison in 1975. More than 14,000 people were tortured here before being killed at the Killing Fields south of Phnom Penh; only 8 prisoners made it out alive. The museum is easily accessible and a must-see for everyone interested in Cambodia's horrific recent past. The infamous "skull map" has been dismantled, although there are still skulls stacked in cabinets, implements of torture and disturbing photographs. For a introduction and further reading, try David Chandler's "Voices from S-21" (ISBN 0520222474). Documentary movie "S-21" can be purchased throughout Phnom Penh for US$1.50-2.

• The Documentation Center of Cambodia (66 Preah Sihanouk Blvd. P.O. Box 1110 Phnom Penh; tel. 855-23-211-875, fax 855-23-210-358) [2] manages the museum as part of its mission to record the history of the Khmer Rouge, and gather evidence against Khmer Rouge leaders.

• The Killing Fields at Cheoung Ek (entrance fee US$2), about 17km south of Phnom Penh, is where the Khmer Rouge killed many thousands of their victims during their four-year reign of terror. Today the site is marked by a Buddhist stupa packed full of human skulls - the sides are made of glass so the visitors can see them up close. There are also pits in the area where mass graves were unearthed. It is a serene yet somber place.

• Stung Meanchey Garbage Dump, where hundreds of the poorest of the poor, including many small children, swarm over the refuse (which includes burning plastic and syringes) hoping to find anything of value. In addition to - or instead of - visiting the dump, you can stop by the impressive French NGO, "Pour sourire un enfant" [3] nearby, which helps 3500 children from the dump and its surrounding areas. PSE staff will give you a guided tour of their learning centre on request. PSE is also in need of foreign volunteer teachers who can commit a little time.

• Phnom Penh's many orphanages are frequently visited by foreigners wanting to help out with time, money, food, school books, etc. But many are exploitative and poorly run. (Your money goes to the owner rather than the kids.) Try to get a reference to a 'legit' orphanage before showing up; and preferably phone first to learn a non-disruptive time to drop in. Cambodian childen are sheer delight, and none more so than its orphans. For many Westerners, time spent hanging out with orphaned kids is the high-point of their visit to Phnom Penh.

Itineraries

• A Stroll on Sisowath Quay - a half-day tour connecting together sightseeing, eating and shopping

See Cambodia | Get in for general information on getting into the country.

See Cambodia | Get in | Visas for detailed visa information.

By plane

Phnom Penh International Airport (IATA: PNH | ICAO: VDPP) is the largest of Cambodia's two international airports (the other is at Siem Reap, the gateway to Angkor Wat). There are daily flights from all major regional airports (Bangkok, Hong Kong, Ho Chi Minh City, Seoul, Singapore, Taipei, Luang Prabang in Laos, and Hanoi via Vientiane, Laos). Airlines include Asiana Airlines, Bangkok Airways, Vietnam Airlines, Korean Air, Lao Airlines, Shanghai Airlines, Thai Airways, Silk Air, Dragon Air, amongst others. The Malaysian low-cost carrier Air Asia has daily flights from Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur. The new terminal is a thoroughly pleasant and modern facility, and features a post office, bank (including ATMs), restaurants, duty-free shop, newsstand, tourist help desk, and business center.

The airport is about 11 km from the city centre. Taxis from the public taxi stand at the airport cost a flat US$9. Pay the fare at the taxi desk inside the door exiting the terminal, at which point you will be allocated a driver. For visitors on a budget without a lot of luggage, it's worth catching an official motocycle taxi for some US$2. Alternatively you can walk out to the main road and get a Tuk Tuk for about $5.

By bus

There are bus services to Phnom Penh from Poipet (on the border with Thailand) and from Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam (US$8-10, 5-6 hours), as well as from points throughout Cambodia. Two of the largest bus companies, Sorya (formerly Ho Wah Genting) and GST, both arrive and depart from the rather chaotic "station" at the southwest corner of the Central Market. Capitol Tours runs buses throughout Cambodia and onward to Ho Chi Minh City and the Mekong Delta, where they link up with Vietnam travel giant Sinh Cafe. Advance bookings are advisable, and can also be sorted out by most travel agents and guesthouses for a token fee.

Many travellers arriving from Thailand break their journey with a detour to Siem Reap, site of the ruins of Angkor. Most buses depart from/to Siem Reap in the early morning, a few more follow around noon; the journey takes about 5 hours. There are also frequent services to Sihanoukville. Basic air-con bus fares start around US$3-4; double-deckers with comfy seats, toilets, drink, food and bus-hostess charge up to US$10.

By boat

Ferries connect Phnom Penh to Siem Reap and usually take 4-5 hours; tickets for foreigners typically cost US$20-30. Many (but not all) of these ferries offer the option of sitting on the roof, which makes for a much more scenic, albeit less comfortable ride than the bus; take sunblock, a hat, and enough water to last you for several hours just in case the boat gets stuck.

Fast boats leave every morning around 8am from Chau Doc in Vietnam's Mekong Delta and take 5 hours to reach Phnom Penh. The boats make the return journey the same day and leave Phnom Penh around 1 PM arriving in Chau Doc in the early evening.

By train

There is a very slow, once-weekly passenger train service between Phnom Penh and Battambang via Pursat. The journey is scheduled to take 14 hours but may be much longer, even though the distance by rail is only 275km. It costs US$5 one-way for foreigners.

• Phnom Penh to Battambang - Saturdays, departs 06:20, arrives 20:00
• Battambang to Phnom Penh - Sundays, departs 06:40, arrives 19:00

Phnom Penh's main streets are in good shape; however other streets and footpaths are often rutted and pot-holed, clogged with garbage, stagnant water, parked motos, sleeping people, livestock and building materials. Many smaller streets either lack signage or bear misleading signs, however, Phnom Penh is logically laid out (see orientation) and navigating the city is not difficult if you know where you're going.

• Motorbikes (but not self-drive cars) are available for rent, however Phnom Penh traffic is chaotic and dangerous even by Asian standards: public transport (other than motorbike taxis) is safer.

• Motorbike-taxis (motodops, motodups or simply motos in local parlance) are ubiquitous and will take you anywhere for a small fare. A trip from Sisowath Quay to Central Market costs about 2,000 riel (50 US cents). Fares are higher at night and with more than one passenger.

• Taxis are available at a few locations - most notably outside the Foreign Correspondents Club on Sisowath Quay. Taxis do not have meters, and fares must be agreed in advance. Fares vary, due to fluctuating fuel prices; ask hotel/guesthouse staff for assistance (hotels and guesthouses will organise taxis on request).

• Tuk-tuks Cambodian-style consist of a motorcycle with a cabin for the passengers hitched to the back. They are cheaper than taxis and offer a scenic experience of the city. Their clientele is exclusively tourists, and most drivers speak some English.

• Cyclos are three-wheeled cycle-rickshaws. Considerably slower then a motodop, and gradually becoming less common in the city, they are still popular with locals and foreigners alike. The nature of the seat lends itself to a quick and easy way to transport all manner of goods from one place to another, even other cyclos and the occasional motorbike as well.

• Walking can be a challenge, as cars and motos sometimes do not stop for pedestrians. To cross safely, judge gaps in the traffic and proceed with care - give oncoming vehicles ample time to see and avoid you, or try to cross with the brightly coloured and revered monks. On larger roads, two streams of traffic travel in each direction, totalling four streams of traffic you have to watch for: thus constant 360 surveillance is required when crossing roads. There is almost no street lighting off the major boulevards, and walking there at night is not recommended.

Cautions:

1. As a huge number of scarred or maimed locals can attest, motorbikes - either as rider or passenger - are the least safe alternative. On a motorbike you are exposed to the worst consequences of the city's bad drivers and appalling accident rate.

2. To obviate later disagreements, bargain a fare before you leave.

3. Tuk tuk and moto drivers sometimes tell passengers they know where a destination is when they don't - meaning you drive miles in the wrong direction, which in turn gives them an opportunity to hit you up for a higher fare. Sometimes the only English a driver knows is something like "Yes, no problem" - leading you to believe he knows where he is going when he does not. Most tuk tuk and moto drivers in Phnom Penh come from rural villages. Incredibly, some cannot find Sisowath Quay or Sihanouk Boulevard. (Roughly equivalent to a New York cabbie not knowing where Fifth Avenue is.) Notwithstanding, drivers are not above bluffing, or even a little bullying, to get you onboard. Make sure the driver genuinely knows where he is going before getting in/on.

4. Don't leave bags or other goods exposed to snatchers on motorbikes: such thefts from tuk tuks and motorbikes are now epidemic in Phnom Penh.

As elsewhere in Cambodia, transactions are made in US dollars and in Cambodian riel, and only upmarket places will accept plastic (normally with a 3 percent surcharge). Take lots of low denomination US notes - notes above US$20 can be difficult to change. In place of coins you will get back riel, at a set exchange rate of 4000 to the dollar. There are a number of international ATM machines dispensing US currency around the city, including the Sisowath Quay tourist strip and in Sorya Market. They also work with international maestro cards. You can change USD into smaller denominations at the currency booths along the footpath on Sisowath.

Popular tourist buys include Cambodian silk, local silverware, traditional handicrafts and curios (including Buddha figures), and made-to-order clothes.

• Central Market (in Cambodian called Psar Thmei - "New Market") is a 1930s Art Deco covered market near the Riverfront (Sisowath Quay) district. The market is well set out, and sells everything from flowers to video games. Sorya Mall, currently Phnom Penh's main Western-style mall, is nearby - less colourful that the traditional markets, but it is air-conditioned and contains a range of cheap fast-food outlets as well as a well-stocked supermarket named Lucky Supermarket. If looking for Sorya, go SOUTH of the Central Market. It's on a north-south street on the west side. Asking anyone in the Central Market will be futile, however they DO understand "Sorya".

• Russian Market (Cambodian "Psar Toul Tom Poung" - it gained the "Russian Market" moniker following the Vietnamese occupation of the city in the 1980s, but many motodops are not familiar with the name) offers the opportunity to buy fake designer clothing, fake swiss watches and pirated software at low prices. It also has the best ice coffee in the city. Russian Market is located away from normal tourist areas, but motodop drivers who cater to tourists will know it.

Street 178, just north of the National Museum, is known as Artist Street and has many interesting boutiques.

• Colours of Cambodia, 373 Sisowath Quay. Handicrafts from around the country.

• Kravan House, #13 St. 178. Has a wide range of Cambodian silk products, including a wide range of ladies' handbags at a fraction of the price you would pay in a hotel gift shop.

• Stef's Happy Painting, Sisowath Quay (near St. 178, directly under FCC), [5]. Features brightly-colored fun and funky paintings of Cambodian life - a welcome relief after visiting some of Cambodia's more heart-breaking attractions.

Antiques dealers in Phnom Penh are an unscrupulous lot and may sell goods that theoretically should not be exported from Cambodia. See Heritage Watch [6] for listings of bad apples. For better or worse, however, most of the "antiques" being sold are fake.

• Hidden Treasures, #9 Street 148, has antiques, art and curios from Cambodia's past and nearby South-East Asian cultures.

• Monument Books, [7] #111 Norodom Boulevard (near Independence Monument), has a focus on books about and from Cambodia, like Angkor Wat, Khmer Rouge Regime, Cambodia history in many languages. They support cambodian publishers.

Phnom Penh offers some interesting culinary treats you won't find elsewhere in the country. Many of these include French-influenced dining as well as Thai, Vietnamese, and modern takes on traditional Cambodian dishes. The standard pizza-banana pancake-fried rice backpacker fare is also always easy to find.

The best area to wander is along the riverfront where everything from stand-up stalls to fine French bistros can be found. Take great care eating from stalls, however. Peeled fruit and vegetables and anything uncooked should be regarded with suspicion.

Budget

Take the cross river ferry to sit on mats and eat cheap hawker food while watching the sunset over the city.

• Chenla Restaurant, #13 Street 278, is a non-profit restaurant which employs poor students from the Phnom Penh area. Great Cambodian mains from US$2-3 and large fruit shakes for less than US$1. Go for a meal and enjoy the after dinner conversation with the enthusiastic servers who like to practice their english!

• California 2 Cafe and Guesthouse [8] 317 Sisowath on the riverfront is where expats and travellers cross paths. Here information is king. Local free travel guides and magazines are available for tourist. Ice cold beer is the cheapest on the riverfront, and the none of the menu items exceed five dollars. Specialty Baja Fish Tacos. 7AM-ish to 10:30PM.

• Home Away From Home, Street 93, is a small family run restaurant. Dishes are around US$2-3 and service is very friendly, but you may have to be patient if a bunch of people just ordered before you.

• Jungle Bar and Grill [9], 273B Sisowath Quay, next to Riverside Bistro, has a varied international menu at very reasonable prices and a great happy hour. Free Internet and a great music selection.

• La Croisette, corner of Sisowath Quay and Street 144, is a French sidewalk café that's open all day.

• Setsara Thai Restaurant, #3D Street 278, is a very nice little Thai restaurant with a really good Thai chef, good music, reasonable prices and good service though a bit slow sometimes. They have some good French specialties as well.

Mid-range

• Anise, 57th St near corner of Sihanouk, is very comfortable with free wi-fi - but has rather ordinary food (e.g. fish and chips out of a packet), which is a little over-priced.

• Bali Café, 379 Sisowath Quay, has pretty good Indonesian food, along with Asian/Thai/Khmer and Western fare. Try the Tahu Telur (fried tofu with eggs). Be careful ordering water or you'll get the small plastic bottle of Evian - at US$3!

• Cafe Yejj, #170 Street 450, offers sidewalk seating and indoor seating both ground level and second floor. Reasonably-priced pasta, panini, burritos and local (Cambodian food). Particiaptes in breaking the cycle of poverty by training women-at-risk as employees. Service very good. VERY clean bathroom upstairs. Most dishes less than US$4.00. Located at the southeast corner of the Russian Market, less than 50 feet east of the corner of Streets 155 & 450. Sit inside if you do not want to be bothered by beggars. (October 2007)

• Equinox [10] on Street 278 (near Street 51) has now opened a pretty good restaurant. Pizzas, baguettes, burgers, pastas and some more western specialities on the menu. Great indoor outdoor ambiance. Meat and salads come from a local organization who encourage and teach farmers in organic growing methods.

• Friends Restaurant, #215 Street 13 (50m north of the National Museum) is run by and for a non-profit that rehabilitates Cambodia's street children, and does delicious international tapas and main dishes.

• Frizz restaurant, #67, Street 240 [11] has traditional Cambodian cuisine, and also operates the Cambodia Cooking Class [12].

• Garden Center Café, #23 Street 57 [13] is a garden setting café/restaurant that's popular with local ex-pats.

• Khmer Surin, #11 Street 57 (south of Sihanouk Boulevard) is a rather romantic restaurant that serves delicious Khmer and Thai food. The traditional Khmer seafood dish, amok, stands out.

• Lazy Gecko, #23B Street 93, Boeung Kak Lake, does a REALLY good hamburger.

• Le Duo, Street 322 (between Monivong and Street 63) has excellent Italian food. Sicilian-born Luigi makes great pastas and pizzas.

• Metro Café, on the corner of Sisowath Quay and Street 148 (opposite Riverside Bistro), is a stylish fusion of Asian and Western culture. Air-con. Good selection of small tapas-style dishes from US$1 and a great steak (about US$12).

• Paris Bubble Tea, 285-287 Preah Monivong (not far from the New York Hotel) tel 023 990 373; is pleasant and has fun and refreshing Bubble Tea. Try the classic Pearl Milk Tea.

• Riverside Bistro, #273a Sisowath Quay [14] occupies an old colonial style building and features comfortable outdoor dining with brilliant views of the Tonle Sap. Popular with local expats, tourists and local affluent Khmers. Try Khmer's "root of lotus".

Splurge

• 102, 1A, St. 102 (one block south of Le Royal), tel. 023-990-880. Probably Phnom Penh's top French restaurant, set in a modern, European-style surroundings. The food is quite competent and the onion soup is superb. Almost entirely undiscovered by tourists but popular with Phnom Penh's moneyed elite, so reservations recommended. US$30.

• FCC (Foreign Correspondents Club), 363 Sisowath Quay. Modern colonial-style charm, superb views of the river and is a favourite expat hang-out that does particularly good desserts. Their signature cocktails, Tonle Sap Breezer and Burmese Rum Sour (US$4.50 each), are also worth a quaff.

• Le Bistrot, #4D, Street 29 - French and Italian in an old villa.

• Xiang Palace (Hotel Intercontinental) Chinese - expensive fine dining, dim sum.

Places to hang out after dark include Street 104, Street 278, and Street 108 around the Street 51 corner, which all feature restaurant bars, hostess bars, and guesthouses.

• UpDownbar, Located on Street 136, across the famous 136 bar. Relaxed atmosphere, with a bar upstairs and groundfloor.

• Barbados, south of Street 104 near the river, is a hostess bar. Buy 5 beers and get 1 free.

• California 2 Cafe and Guesthouse [15] 317 Sisowath on the riverfront is where expats and travellers cross paths. Here information is king. Local free travel guides and magazines are available for tourist. Travelling off the beaten path, Jim the owner or many of his motorcyling enthusiast visitors have covered the country corner to corner. Ice cold beer is the cheapest on the riverfront but it closes at 10:30PM.

• DV8 Bar & Guesthouse [16] on Street 148 (near the riverfront) is a popular hostess bar with a good selection of spirits and a pool table on the 2nd floor - great if you're a single guy. Good accommodation on the premises.

• Elephant Bar, Raffles Le Royal. The classy bar at the classiest hotel in town, with frescos on the ceiling and live piano in the evenings. Try the Femme Fatale, a mix of cognac and champagne dreamed up for Jacqui Kennedy in 1967. Expensive.

• Elsewhere on Street 51 is an ex-pat hang-out with platform seating surrounding a small pool, in a French colonial villa. Big party first Friday of every month, when the place is packed.

• Equinox [17] on Street 278 (near Street 51) is a cocktail bar featuring paintings by local artist Soumey and photo exhibits by Isabelle Lesser, gaming room with a pool table and the unique bonzini foosball table of Phnom Penh, cool tunes, good food. Increasingly popular with expats.

• FCC and Guesthouse on Sisowath Quay, overlooking the river. Excellent place to meet professionals and travelling people. Happy hour 5-7pm.

• Golden Vine on street 108 next to VooDoo Lounge. Hostess bar with pole dancing and good food. Sunday roast recommended.

• Heart of Darkness has long been the most infamous nightclub in Phnom Penh, closed in August 2005 after a patron was shot to death but is now back in business. Some seating is reserved for well-heeled (gangster elite) Phnom Penh local youth, so move if you are asked. While certainly not the safest place in the world, more nights go by without incident than not. A number of expats avoid it now, however. Saturday nights are always packed.

• Martini Pub & Disco on Street 95 (one block off Monivong Blvd, across from the Total Gas Station) is an infamous girlie bar. Two full bars, food US$2-6, burgers & fries, pizza, Asian dishes, gaming room, disco, outdoor big-screen showing movies or sports. There some copycat Martini bars in other places like Sihanoukeville and Siem Reap, but this is the original. A place for single men and loose ladies.

• Monsoon Wine Bar on Street 104 is an intimate, cosy wine bar. Try a glass of wine from the well-chosen international wine list or nibble on something from the small but excellent Pakistani menu. Chilled vibe, cool tunes, friendly service.

• OneZeroFour Bar [18] on Street 104 is a popular low-key hostess bar. The bar has a good range of single malt whiskeys.

• One3Six Bar Located on Street 136. A popular hostess bar.Great range of drinks plus they keep their 42 Below and Grey Goose Vodka in the freezer, so the shots are real smooth.

• Pit Stop on Street 51 is a popular hostess bar.

• Rubies on Street 240 is a wine bar favoured by young ex-pats working for local NGOs. Busy with a cliquey atmosphere on a weekend night.

• Sharky's Bar & Restaurant, #126 Street 130, Phnom Penh [19] Since its opening in 1995, Sharky's has been rocking & rolling. Located upstairs on the first floor above street level, Sharky's boasts a large space, huge center bar, outside balcony, and plenty of available seating. Most moto taxis will understand "Shockeee Bah". It's about three 1/2 blocks from the "Psar Thmei" (new market).

• Sugar Shack [20] on Sothearos (the street in front of the National Museum and Palace) is a classy little hostess bar featuring a nice selection of wines, champagnes and single malts.

• VooDoo Lounge on Street 51 near street 108 is a new bar with a great range of drinks, nice decor, air-con, happy hostesses, and a pool table. Two other hostess bars nearby.

• Walkabout on Street 51 has food and good pool tables. Many freelance girls congregate here. Popular after hours bar, also has rooms available. Open 24 hours.

• Zanzibar on Street 104 is high energy hostess bar with reasonable prices and a pool table upstairs, that's very popular among expats.

• Zapata Bar on Street 108 next to VooDoo Lounge is a stylish air-con hostess bar with a good range of drinks, and no pool table or food to distract you from the lovely ladies.