Go to the park

For more parks, check a city region section.

• Ibirapuera Park, [13]. With 1.5 million square meters, this is the most frequented leisure area in São Paulo. It has paths for walking and jogging, bikeways, woods, lakes, sport courts and areas for relaxation that attract city residents of all ages. It receives up to 150 thousand visitors on weekends. There are other important attractions at Ibirapuera, such as the Modern Art Museum, the Biennial Art Exhibition building, the Oca art exhibition pavilion and the Japanese pavilion. It also has frequent free music presentations by national and international artists. Ibirapuera was inaugurated in 1954, during the celebrations for the city’s fourth centennial. Oscar Niemeyer, renowned Brazilian architect, designed several of the buildings. Watch joggers, dog-walkers and all kinds of street vendors, and sit down on a patch of grass and listen to the birds singing. One of the few places in São Paulo where you can do just that. If you feel like it you can even enjoy a Caipirinha from one of the cardbord-box bars you will find close to the entrances. Also buy the sweet and tasty coconut/nougat-sweets that are sold by many vendors in the park. Nearest Metro is "Vila Mariana" and then a short taxi ride, a bus or a 20 minutes walk down the Rua Sena Madureira. You also can walk for around 20 minutes through Brigadeiro Luiz Antonio Avenue, from "Brigadeiro" Station (Green Line), in Paulista Avenue. You also can take a bus from the station, until the park.

Watch the city

Whether taking a tour by bus, walking in specific neighborhoods or admiring a great view of the city on top of Edifício Itália, São Paulo has many options for sightseeing and exploring. Stroll around Vila Nova Conceiçao, one of the most expensive property areas in town. Drive along Pinheiros neighborhood which contains some of the most famous and popular night clubs in the city. The crossing from Av. Faria Lima and Av. Juscelino Kubitschek is a good place to start. Driving along the Faria Lima and surroundings, visitors will be rejoiced by a wide selection of bars and clubs.

Go to the Zoo

The Zoo is always a good option to get to know a little bit more about the varied fauna of Sao Paulo. It is also a nice entertainment option for families with children in town. From Metro Jabaquara station, there is a shuttle bus that takes you straight there. Open Tuesdays to Sundays, 9am to 4:30pm.

Ride on a theme park

• Playcenter, [14]. One of the city's main amusement parks, offering dozens of rides, as well as shows, places to eat, stores, banks, parking, etc. Rua José Gomes Falcão, 20, Barra Funda Metrô Station (Red Line).

• Visit the Aquarium, Rua Huet Bacelar, 407, Ipiranga, ☎ (11) 2273-5500, [15]. Mon-Fri 8am to 8pm, Sat-Sun 10am to 8pm. R$25.  edit

• Hopi Hari, Rodovia dos Bandeirantes, km 72, Vinhedo-SP, ☎ 0300-789-5566, [16]. Check Hopi Hari's website for working days. A big theme park located in the city of Vinhedo, one hour from São Paulo. It offers many rides, from those for children to the radical ones. Variated food, from snacks to a la carte. You can get there by car or shuttle buses from many places. For further information, see Hopi Hari's website. R$34,90 for previously bought tickets; R$49,00 for tickets bought in park entrance.  edit

• Wet'n Wild São Paulo, Rodovia dos Bandeirantes, km 72, Itupeva-SP, ☎ (11) 4496-8000, [17]. Check Wet'n Wild website for working days. A water park of the American Wet'n Wild chain, just beside Hopi Hari, with 12 rides and many food shops. from R$ 32,50 (bought in kiosks, for weekdays) to R$65,00 (in park entrance, for weekends).  edit

City Tours

• Sao Paulo Historical City Tour is a panoramic tour for those keen to have an introduction to the history, culture, and the lifestyle of the biggest city in the Southern Hemisphere. The city tour takes about 3 hours, during which the visitor will pass by places in Sao Paulo Old Centre and get familiar with highlights such as the Cathedral of Se, Patio do Colegio (short stop at the square, the site where the city was founded), Monastery of Sao Bento, the Banespa Building (Sao Paulo’s “Empire State Building”), Martinelli Building (the first skyscraper in South America), Viaduto do Chá (Tea Viaduct), the Municipal Theater, Sala Sao Paulo concert hall, Estaçao da Luz train station and the Municipal Market. Some companies 1 provide this service under request.

Museums

As the art center of the country, São Paulo offers museums in a variety of subjects. Check each region section of this guide for a list of museums.

Buildings with observation decks

São Paulo is a beautiful city seen from above, so spare some time to go to one of the few points where you´ll be able to see how far this city extends to, specially at sunset.

• Banespa Tower, Rua João Brícola, 24, Centro. São Bento Metrô station, ☎ +55(11) 3249-7180. Mon to Fri, 10am to 5pm. Free entrance. The observation deck is on the 34th floor, 160m above ground. For many decades, it used to be the highest building in town. There is a small museum on the top of the building.  edit

• Restaurant Skye, Hotel Unique, Avenida Brigadeiro Luiz Antônio, 4700. Free entrance. On the rooftop of posh Hotel Unique, Skye serves excellent fusion food under the supervision of chef Emmanuel Bassoleil. Good for night views of the area around Ibirapuera Park.  edit

• São Paulo Jockey Club, Av. Lineu de Paula Machado, 1263, [10]. Free entrance. There are two bars and a couple of posh restaurants with a great view of the River Pinheiros, especially around 6pm, when you can go straight from work or a busy day walking about to watch the sun set above town.  edit

Theaters

São Paulo has a great number of theaters, most of which carry plays in Portuguese. Specific places, such as the British Cultural Centre, Goethe Institute and Alliance Française occasionally carry plays in English, German and French, respectively. Check each region of the city for list of theaters.

Biennial of São Paulo

The arts Biennial takes place every two years in the Biennial Pavillon, inside the Ibirapuera Park. It is an art show that displays the works of both renown artists and fresh talents. The next one will be organised in 2008.

• Pavilhão da Bienal, Parque do Ibirapuera (av. Pedro Álvares Cabral, s/n.º, Portão 3), ☎ +55(11) 3032-7576.  edit

Carnival

If you're in São Paulo during the annual Carnival, a national bank holiday between the end of February and March, you should definitely get tickets to parade in the Sambodromo, near Armenia and Tiete Metro stations (Avenida Olavo Fontoura, 1209, Santana. Tel. +55(11) 6226-0510). This is where the typical Carnival parade takes place, with dancers dressed up in costumes and musicians play samba songs on the top of fancy cars.

If you can afford it, get tickets closest to the "pista" (standing area, close to the parade itself). This will give you a premium view of the parade, and the possibility of comfortably sitting down on benches. Waiters pass to and fro selling chocolate, chips, beer, soft drinks and booze.

The next best place is "Arquibancada B", where you stay in the middle of the pista, and have the possibility of standing next to the parade. This is the best spot for taking photos, as in the more expensive spots just below Arquibancada B high fences may get on the way. After the parade, there are huge lines of taxis looking for customers outside the stadium. Note that there is a very comfortable and relatively reasonable Holiday Inn around the Sambodromo.

Another option is to visit one of the various samba school in town, where you can see the rehearsal concerts of musicians and dancers. You can even have the opportunity to join the parade at the time of Carnival holidays by acquiring the costume from a samba school and getting in touch with the people organising the event in one of the schools:

• Rosas de Ouro, Rua Coronel Euclides Machado, 1066, Marginal do Tiete, ☎ +55(11) 3931-4555, [11]. Rehearsals every Friday, 8:30pm.  edit

• Vai-Vai, Rua São Vicente, 276, Bixiga, ☎ +55(11) 3105-8725 (vaivai@vaivai.com.br), [12]. Rehearsals every Wednesdays, 8pm.  edit

Gay Pride

Every year, during Corpus Christi holidays (usually between May and June), around 2 million people take part in one of the largest Gay Pride parade in the world. It takes place on the holiday Sunday, and Avenida Paulista is the spot to head to.

• Check the official Brazil tourism website for general information regarding visas and customs, and the Cidade de São Paulo homepage for updated events and art exhibitions around town.

By plane

São Paulo has three major airports you can fly into: Guarulhos International (GRU) and Viracopos (CPQ) for international arrivals, and Congonhas (CGH) for national arrivals flying to and from cities withing a 1000km radius. Campo de Marte, the town's fourth airport in importance, is used solely for executive jets, helicopter, air taxis and such, not carrying any commercial lines.

Guarulhos International Airport (GRU)

If flying into São Paulo from abroad, you'll mostly likely land at Guarulhos International Airport, also known as Cumbica. Located 40 km from the city centre, the airport has two terminals that are served by Brazilian airlines Varig, TAM, Gol and by international United, Delta, American, Continental, Air Canada, Air France, British Airways, TAP, Iberia, Alitalia, KLM, JAL, South African and many others.

There is one baggage storage area with lockers between the main entrances of Terminals 1 and 2, outside the airport. R$ 7 for 24 hours. Larger volumes stored apart at higher costs. The upper floor of terminal 1 has a calling center with internet access, and a post office[5]. (Perhaps the best in Brazil for receiving mail Poste Restante[6])

Non-airline shuttle buses are available from Guarulhos to Congonhas Airport, Praça da República (Downtown), Paulista/Jardins region, Barra Funda bus station and Tietê bus station(fastest access to the subway). All lines except Congonhas connect to the Metrô. Fares are R$ 28 one-way. There is also a regular urban bus every 20-30 minutes (timetables), which costs only R$3,40 and goes to and from Tatuapé Metro station (30-45 minutes, via Ayrton Senna, the other is slower) (line 3, red). Less comfy than the shuttles, but can prove faster way to Paulista (and elsewhere) on days with dense traffic, as it goes for the closest Metro station. Be aware that you might be denied access with luggage that won´t fit on your lap.

A taxi co-operative, Guarucoop (tel: +55 11 6445-7070), has a monopoly on cabs leaving Guarulhos. They are plentiful and the queue is outside the arrival terminal. Credit-card users can pay for their journey in advance at the booth. Expect to pay about R$75 - R$110 (depending upon your destination) for the 25km journey into the city. Passengers can ask to see the tabela, which shows the fares for each neighbourhood. A taxi ride into the city can take an hour and a half during peak times; 40 minutes late at night or early in the morning.

Congonhas Airport (CGH)

The Congonhas Airport is located in a very central region, 15km (9 miles) from downtown. This airport handles most of the domestic flights and the popular São Paulo - Rio (Santos Dumont) shuttle and its architecture is worth seeing.

If you want to get to Rio de Janeiro this is your best connection. Flights offered by several airlines such as TAM and Gol leave at least hourly or more often from and to Rio.

The easiest (and cheapest) way to get to Congonhas is by taking any of the "Aeroporto" regular line buses that run in Paulista Avenue. After some 40 - 60 minutes in modest traffic you'll be dropped right in front of the airport and the fare is the regular R$ 2,30 (Bilhete Único accepted). It is mostly faster to take the metro to the São Judas station, and then the bus from there (10 minutes.)

Viracopos International (CPQ or VCP)

Located near the city of Campinas, around 99 kilometers from downtown São Paulo, Viracopos International is the second biggest airport in Brazil but is mainly used for air cargo transport; however, domestic and international flights also arrive there. Airlines that operate in CPQ are BRA, Gol, Varig, TAM, Total and Trip.

By bus

There are three main bus terminals in São Paulo, all of them served by the Metrô network.

• Terminal Rodoviário do Tietê, Av. Cruzeiro do Sul 1.800, Santana (Tietê metro station, Blue line), ☎ +55 11 3235-0322, reachable from 6h to 23h30, [7]. Tietê bus terminal is the second largest terminal in the world, hence an enormous building, but there is an information desk in the middle of the main lobby. Buses leave Sao Paulo for destinations throughout Brazil and for international destinations including Asunción in Paraguay (20hr), Buenos Aires in Argentina (36hr), Montevideo in Uruguay (30hr) and Santiago in Chile (56hr). A taxi ride from Paulista/Jardins costs around R$ 40 (US$ 18,50).  edit

• Terminal Rodoviário da Barra Funda, R. Maria de Andrade 664, Barra Funda district, Expanded Center, ☎ +55 11 3392-1878, [8]. Located west of São Paulo's downtown , carries departures and arrivals to and from western cities in the São Paulo state, to Mato Grosso, Foz do Iguaçu and west Paraná cities. About thirty minutes from Paulista Avenue by Metrô (station Barra Funda, Red line). You can also reach it by boarding the Orca shuttle service from Vila Madalena station (Green line) or by boarding the "Barra Funda" (875P) bus in Paulista Avenue. Guarulhos International Airport shuttles also depart and arrive from this terminal. edit

• Terminal Rodoviário de Jabaquara, R. dos Jequitibás s/n, Jabaquara district, South Side, ☎ +55 11 3235-0322, [9]. The Jabaquara Terminal serves cities in São Paulo state's south coast such as Guarujá, Santos and Bertioga. Located thirty minutes away by Metrô (Jabaquara station, Blue line) from downtown. There is a baggage storae (Guarda Volumas) in the Jabaquara Metro, R$6 for 24 hours. edit

Transport in São Paulo can be anything from complicated to hellish. Peak hours are normally roughly 06:00-09:00 and 16:00-20:00, but since city roads are constantly on the edge of their capacity, any little incident can cause major queues and delays. The solution for tourist is to use subway (metrô), train (CPTM) and trolleybuses (EMTU) as far as possible. Even these means of transport can be uncomfortably crowded during peaks, and only a very limited carry-on is recommended.

Bilhete Único

The Bilhete Único is a contactless smart card that can be used for paying the fares in buses, subways and trains. In essence, a single billing of the card grants a person up to four trips in São Paulo's public transportation system (but not four trips on trains; see below for details). You can get the card at no cost at many underground stations; charge them with the minimum amount required in newspaper stands, state-owned betting shops (known as "lotéricas"), supermarkets and other establishments - look for the red, round "Bilhete Único" logo. You can use the card to pay for your trips in the public transportation system as follows:

• On buses: upon boarding a bus, you'll be charged R$ 2,30 and can board up to three other buses in a two-hour period without being charged a second time.

• On the Metro or CPTM trains: for a single trip in the underground train system, you'll be charged R$ 2,40.

• First Metro/CPTM train then bus: you'll be charged R$ 2,40 when passing by a Metro or CPTM station's turnstile. Once you board a bus, you'll be charged an extra R$ 1,25 and will be able to board two other buses in a two-hour period - starting from the first validation at the train station - without any further payment.

• First bus then Metro/CPTM train: once you board a bus, R$ 2,30 is charged from your card. Upon entering the Metro or CPTM systems, you'll be charged a further R$ 1,35. It's possible, after leaving the Metro or CPTM system, to board up to two other buses without any further payment in the two-hour period that starts from the first validation, depending on whether you boarded one or two buses before entering a train.

By subway and train

Metrô (Subway System)

São Paulo's subway system, known as the Metrô, is the method of transportation a tourist is likely to use the most while visiting São Paulo. It is modern, safe, clean and efficient. It has three lines in operation and one under construction. In several stations, Metrô connects to São Paulo's extensive suburban trains network, called CPTM(Downloadable map (PDF)).

• Line 1 (Blue): The first Metrô line built runs North-South. Transfers are available for the Green and Red and lines and also for CPTM trains. Tietê and Jabaquara bus terminals are also reachable through via Line 1 (Blue).

• Line 2 (Green): The Green line runs through Avenida Paulista ridge, connecting Alto do Ipiranga to Vila Madalena, and also the Blue line.

• Line 3 (Red): One of São Paulo's busiest lines, it connects the East Side to the West Side. Connections to the Blue line and CPTM trains are available. The Barra Funda bus terminal is located on the west end of this line.

• Line 4 (Yellow, under construction): Scheduled to have the first stations operating in 2008 and fully operating in 2012, the Yellow line will connect the central Luz station to the West side in a route constructed immediately below the Consolação and Rebouças avenues. Connections will be available to the Blue, Green and Red lines and to CPTM trains.

• Line 5 (Purple): Built for users who need to reach specific places in São Paulo's South Side. Only a short sector of the line is already available, connecting to CPTM trains at Santo Amaro station; the scheduled expansion will make connections to the Blue and Green lines in 2010.

Fare and hours of operation

If you don't have a Bilhete Único smart card (see above), the Metrô uses a simple fixed-price ticketing scheme - you can get only one-trip tickets, which cost R$ 2,40. The single tickets can be bought at the counters or automatic machines, found in every station. Buying multiple ticket will not save you money but will save time locating a vending machine or waiting time which can both be bothersome.

Metrô tickets are valid for inter-line changes on the Metrô system. Special tickets are also available if you need a connection with buses and cost R$ 4,00 (US$ 1,90); you will be able to board only a single bus after using the Metrô/CPTM network with such a ticket.

The Metrô's working hours are from 4:30 am to around 12:00 am, depending on the station, up to 12:40am. Connections on the Metrô network are guaranteed only for boardings before 12:00am, regardless of the station.

CPTM (Commuter Trains)

There are 600 commuter train lines to suburban areas, with free transfer to Metro at Brás, Luz, Barra Funda and Santo Amaro stations. The one-way ticket costs R$ 2,40. "Bilhete Único" is accepted. Info toll-free 0800-055-0121.

By bus

Buses are the most popular way to get around the city. Even though drivers really step on it through the bumpy streets of São Paulo, buses are not the fastest way to get around. In addition, they can get really crowded. However, unlike the Metro lines, they do reach every neighbourhood.

Tickets are R$2,30 one way. You can pay for the ride inside the bus, or use a Bilhete Unico card topped up with credits before boarding. If paying for the ticket on the bus, simply hand over the money to the teller sitting by the turnstile, and he or she will let you pass through. Note that children under 5 years old are allowed by law to slip under the turnstile for free! If you have the Bilhete Unico magnetic card, then a single fare payment allows you to take other buses for free for the next 2 hours after touching in the card. Simply scan the card in front of the card reader, and the turnstile will be released.

If you are carrying large suitcases, try to avoid rush-hour traffic as buses can become incredibly packed. It is not always wise to take the bus late at night, especially if you find yourself all alone waiting at the bus stop - consider calling a cab instead, or asking someone you know for a lift.

By taxi

Taxi ranks in Sao Paulo are white, with a distinctive luminous green "TAXI" sign on the roof top. Check out for the white color of the taxi rank (unless it's a radio taxi), the official license sticker with the driver's name and photo on the passenger side of the control panel, and the red license plate.

There are two kinds of cabs: cheaper street-hail and radio taxi. White taxis often found at stands near city squares and big venues. Radio taxis can be ordered by telephone; ask reception at your hotel for help to call a radiocab, or just call a company:

• Radio Taxi Vermelho e Branco. (11) 3146-4000.
• Aero Táxi. 6461 40 90.
• Central Rádio Táxi Comum. 5063 04 04.
• Coopertáxi. 6941 25 55.
• Líder Rádio Táxi Comum. 6258 80 00.

Regular taxis will cost about US$19 (R$30) for a 20 min (10 km) ride, which will get you pretty much anywhere you´ll want to go. Meter is always on and drivers are fairly reliable and know their way around well. Note that some rides are negotiable - remarkably, when comuting to the airport or for a couple of hours tour around the city -, so the taxi driver will shut off the meter and accept a flat fee.

Fares go up after 9pm on weekdays and on Sundays and holidays (all metered). Taking a taxi to outside of the Sao Paulo boundaries (e.g. Embu des Artes) will cost you an extra 50% of the fare. Taxi drivers will charge you a small extra fare for using the trunk or carrying suitcases. You will always be able to get a nice and safe cab outside of clubs, bars and restaurants, no matter how late; and they won't charge you extra for that.

You can tip the cab driver at your discretion, but it is not mandatory. If you use the trunk, or if the driver helps you with the luggage, you should definitely tip.

By car

Cars are an important tool in the life of every paulistano. By commuting to and from work, one can spend several hours a day inside a car, stuck in the traffic. Some places can only be reached by car, and if you have to travel long distances in town, it is usually the most convenient means of transport. It is also part of the Sao Paulo's own urban culture, some years ago, it used to be common for some middle- and upper-class young people to receive a car from their families if they passed the entrance exams for university.

However, as it is the case in many big cities, getting around by car is borderline crazy. Traffic is hell, parking is a nightmare, and the definition of a lane tends to be "wherever I can fit a car." So be warned that visitors to Sao Paulo don't need a car.

If you don't mind these minor objections, feel free to explore the city from behind a steering-wheel. Companies such as Avis and Hertz provide all the information you need to hire a car in their website. There is some information about driving in town that you should know beforehand:

Rotating transit policy: In order to reduce the congestion and the air pollution in Sao Paulo, the city council has adopted a mandatory rotating transit policy: cars whose license plate number ends in 1 and 2 cannot circulate on Mondays; if it ends on 3 or 4, Tuesday is off; 5 or 6, stay home or take a cab on Wednesdays; 7 or 8, Thursday is the unlucky day; 9 or 0, on Fridays you can walk. The prohibition is valid only on the so-called Expanded Center, and for peak hours: 7am to 10am and 5pm to 8pm. During the remaining hours, cars are allowed to circulate freely.

Provisory driving licence: Being able to drive around the city is a great advantage for visitors staying in town for a longer period of time. You'll need a Brazilian provisory driving licence, valid for 6 months and renewable, that can be obtained at Detran (State Transit Department), on Avenida Pedro Alvares Cabral, 1301, 04094-901, near Ibirapuera Park. If you have a International Driving Licence, you'll still have to go to Detran and register it. Submit the following documents to “Setor de Atendimento ao Estrangeiro” (4th floor of the main building, also called prédio principal):

• your original valid driving licence from your home country and a photocopy of your licence
• an original ID document and a photocopy of a valid leave to remain in Brazil (passport with a valid visa or stamp)
• Translation of the driving licence by an official translator or your country's Consulate in Brazil
• A document (such as a utility bill, a bank statement or a letter from your landlord) proving your local residential address.

Parking fees: The city council charges a parking fee of R$2 for one-hour parking in some of the main streets in the central area, so be careful not to be fined for not paying the charge. Check for signs in the sidewalk and yellow lines on the pavement. There are plenty of authorised shops and transit guards selling tickets (Zona Azul) in the streets, which have to be filled in with the car plaque number, the date and the hour of the parking and placed inside the car, on the frontal window pane. These tickets are valid for one hour only, but they can be renewed if you plan to stay longer. Only two one-hour tickets can be placed at one time, which means that you'll have to check on you car every two hours to renew them. The fee is charged Mondays to Saturdays, from 7am to 7pm.

Driving at night: Buses stop at 1 a.m and the metro around midnight, so it can be tricky to get to many of the famous bars and night clubs unless you take a taxi, or... drive. If you go out at night by car, expect to pay a small fee to unofficial "car keepers" in order to park your car along the streets. This is a common use in many busy outing hubs around town, which may seem unfair given that parking your car in the streets is free of charge after 7pm, but they occasionally may check your car against stereo robbers. If the neighbourhood seems a bit dodgy or deserted, try to find a parking lot rather than parking in the streets.

Valet services: Most bars and restaurants offer non-compulsory parking and valet services to customers, for which you will be charged a small fee. These services are often covered by insurance, nevertheless, whenever using valet services, do not leave valuables such as handbags, wallets, electronics and sunglasses in the car, as these items are usually not covered by the insurance policies in parking spaces.

Fuel: At petrol filling stations, you'll notice that ethanol is as common as traditional fuels in the pumps. That is because, after the oil shocks in the 1970s, the Brazilian government incentivised car makers to develop and improve the existent ethanol-fueled engines. This policy, applied over the years, has resulted in a large number of people choosing to buy this type of car. Ethanol tends to be cheaper than petrol, but the consumption in litres is around 30 percent higher. Many flex-power cars can now be fuelled with either ethanol or gas, or a mixture of both in any proportion. Staff are hired in petrol stations to fill the tank for you, so you don't need to get out of the car, unless if you're paying by credit card, in which case you can go to the cashier to swipe it.

By bicycle

According to the National Association for Public Transport (ANTP), 7.4% of all Brazilian urban journeys are done by bicycle. However, the chaotic car traffic in big cities discourages many from getting on a bike. Problems such as the risk of accidents and of getting your bicycle stolen are also to be evaluated. But due to intense traffic congestion, sometimes your journey by bicycle might be faster than if you were driving a car.

It is best to cycle on the weekends, when the number of pedestrians and cars in the streets are much lower than on weekdays. Don't ride your bicycle on the pavement, and follow the direction of traffic at all times. Watch out for car doors opening without warning.

There are public bicycle parking lots in Guilhermina-Esperança and Pinheiros metro stations (opening hours: Monday to Sunday, from 6am to 9pm). Parking lots (mainly the ones designed for cars) may not accept your bicycle, so if you are to chain yours to a pole, use a good chain with a strong lock.

The Metro underground system accepts cyclists with bicycles on weekends and holidays.

Cycle ways

São Paulo has built 23km of the 300km planned cycle routes. Many are underutilised, such as the one that connects the Largo da Batata to Avenida Pedroso de Morais, in the district of Pinheiros. You can also ride your bicycle in public parks such as Ibirapuera Park and Cidade Universitaria, which are cyclist-friendly.

On foot

Although required by the national transit law, pedestrians are definitely not the priority in Sao Paulo, where cars dominate the streets and roads, and have become an extention of people's bodies. Take care whenever crossing the streets, watching out for cars that may come unexpectedly, even if the pedestrian lights are green. Do not try to cross large roads with a high volumes of car traffic: usually there will be a pedestrian viaduct or bridge at some point in the sidewalk. Motorbikes are especially disrespectful of the traffic laws, as many of them are courier men in a hurry to deliver a document within a short deadline, and are therefore willing to speed up and even drive on the sidewalk to achieve their goals.

Walks

Despite the aggressiveness found in the transit, one can still have peaceful walks across town. The historical Centro neighbourhood is definitely one place to explore on foot.

The Jardins are also great to explore by strolling around the Rua Oscar Freire, Rua Haddock Lobo and Alameda Santos. More on this area can be found below on the "Buy" section of this guide and on the region section.

Check each city region section for shopping options.

The Brazilian currency is the real (plural reais), abbreviated BRL or R$ (as used in this guide). It is the legal tender, and no other currency can be used within the country for everyday uses, such as shopping, taking a cab or paying for a meal. One real is divided into 100 centavos. There are two families of coins, the first one with all silver coins, and the second one as follows: R$0.01 and R$0.05 (copper), $0.10 and $0.25 (golden), $0.50 (silver) and $1 (silver with a golden halo), plus bills of $1 (green), $2 (dark blue), $5 (purple), $10 (red, paper and polymer), $50 (golden) and $100 (blue). As of September 2007, one sterling pound is worth about R$3.80 and one US dollar is worth about $1.90.

• Most credit cards are widely accepted in shops and restaurants, but a few more upscale restaurants and small shops may be an exception to this rule, accepting cash only. Another means of payment that is extremely popular is by cheque, but this only applies if you have a Brazilian bank account. ATMs work with international credit cards and are found in several corners around town.

• Store windows will often display a price followed by "X 5" or "X 10", etc. This is an installment-sale price. The price displayed is the per-installment price, so that, "R$50 X 10", for example, means 10 payments (typically monthly) of R$50 each. The actual price is almost always lower if you pay in cash, but you may have to ask the salesclerk to obtain a rebate.

• Make sure any appliances you buy are either dual voltage or the same voltage as in your home country. Brazil is 60Hz, so don't buy electronic devices unless you have an adaptor. The voltage is 110V.

Nowadays, many high street banks sell Brazilian reais outside the country. Once in Sao Paulo, some exchange bureaus can be found in the Guarulhos Airport or else check out these addresses:

• American Express Exchange Bureau, Rua. Haddock Lobo, 400, Jardins (near Avenida Paulista) (Metro station Consolacao), ☎ 0800-891-2614 (free of charge within Brazil). Exchanges traveller's cheques.  edit

Costs

São Paulo has one of the highest living costs in Latin America. Even so, costs are usually lower than in Western Europe or North America, and it is possible to enjoy the city's attractions while spending low cash in both accommodation and food. For example, a set-meal, drinks included, in a not-so-bad place is around R$ 12 (US$ 5,50). One glass of beer (300ml) is around R$3.20 (US$1.70) in some upscale bars. Ask locals for tips how to make the best out of your money if you're in a tight budget.

Shop

You'll find practically anything in São Paulo. Imported goods can be expensive, but look out for Brazilian-made bargains in all categories. Spend some time in one of the many "shoppings" (as Brazilians call the shopping malls) and also look out for areas with shops catering for specific interests. Electronic equipment and European wines can be expensive. But look out for local brands and gift shops for bargains.

There's not one single main shopping area in São Paulo, but many specialised streets, such as Rua Teodoro Sampaio (Metrô Clínicas) for furniture and musical instruments, Rua Oscar Freire (Metrô Consolação) for designer clothing such as Versace and Dior and jewelry shops, Rua José Paulino (Metrô Tiradentes) for bargain and wholesale clothing, and Rua Santa Ifigênia for electronic equipment. Every region of the city (Central, South, North, East and West) has at least one or more shopping areas.

Street shops usually open at 10am and close at 6pm, including Saturdays, and close on Sundays. In shopping centres, opening hours are 10am to 10pm from Monday to Saturday, and 12pm to 8pm on Sundays.

São Paulo has a superb diversity of restaurants, and the prices can be relatively low compared to European and American standards. When eating out, a tip of 10 percent on the value of the bill is usually included. Some restaurants don't include service charges (occasion when you may come across the message "Serviço não incluso" at the end of the bill), but unless the staff is upsettingly rude, do pay the standard 10 percent service fee as it is usually part of their wages.

It is not common to leave handbags on the floor; local superstition says your money can go away. The waiters may even offer an extra chair for you to leave your belongings whilst you have your meal. Many restaurants have a small hanger underneath the dining table, or a hook-and-loop velcro fastener on the chair rest for you to hang your bag.

If you don't know what to order in a Brazilian bar, look up for mandioca (Portuguese for manioc or cassava root) on the menu. Most likely they'll have it, deep-fried and sprinkled with salt (great alternative to chips!), or cooked and seasoned with melted butter. If you are up to a more conservative choice, french fries are spelled batata frita in Brazilian Portuguese.

Budget

There are so many budget eating oportunities in São Paulo, and you will have no problem eating a perfectly good dinner for less than R$ 10. Good places to look for when on a budget is the popular all-you-can-eat establishments called self-service. You will find one literally on every street corner. You pay by weight or a fixed sum to eat as much as you want - although the food may or may not be especially fresh. Another option is to buy nice street-food such as pastel, corn on the cob, hot dogs. You will find equally many pizza-restaurants throughout the city, where a pizza will cost between R$10-15. For quick lunches (sandwiches, burgers, smoothies, juices etc.) it's hard to beat the numerous lanchonetes, many of which are also open for dinner. Often times, if you order anything more than a sandwich at these places it comes with some combination rice, beans, and/or fries. A cafezinho is also included in the cost of many meals.

There are also plenty of cheap chain restaurants:

• Habib's. Chain of Arab fast-food restaurants found throughout the city. It is easily recognizable with a genie as its mascot on a red sign. The esfiha is very cheap and is somewhat like a very small pizza. It comes with a variety of toppings, including cheese, beef and spinach. A handful of these can be a quick and cheap way to fill up.

• Jamil. Middle Eastern (Lebanese) fast-food. Esfiha, Kafta, Kibe, etc. Rua Quisisana, 12, Jardim da Saúde (on the corner of Avenida Cursino, at the 1700 block). Tel. (11) 5058-2223. Just a little corner place with nice portions and very reasonable prices. Two (2) nice sized (5" diameter - 12cm) esfihas, orange juice and halvah dessert for less than R$10,00. No coffee though.

• Ponto Chic, Praça Oswaldo Cruz, 26, Paraiso, [26].  edit

You will have no trouble finding bars in São Paulo, where you can enjoy an ice cold beer, a shot of cachaça or a caipirinha - or anything else for that matter. A chopp (a 300ml glass of draught beer) will set you back between R$ 2 and R$ 10 (in extreme cases), depending on the bar, but anything around R$3,10 is fine.

There are two ways of serving beer in bars: draft or bottled. Draft lager beer is called chope or chopp ('SHOH-pee'), and is commonly served with one inch of foam, but you can always ask for it "sem colarinho" (without foam) if you prefer. In bars, the waiter will usually collect the empty glasses and bottles on a table and replace them with full ones, until you ask him to stop, in a "tap" charging system. In the case of bottled beer, bottles (600ml) are shared among everyone in the table and poured into small glasses, rather than drank straight from the bottle. Brazilians like their beer nearly ice-cold - hence, to keep the temperature down, the bottles are often kept in an insulated polystyrene container on the table.

Vila Madalena and Vila Mariana have a very high concentration of bars, and are great spots for an all-nighter. Some suggestions of bars, check the district section.