Cinema

Brussels is well catered for when it comes to film. French films are subtitled in Dutch, and vice versa, all other films are shown in the original version subtitled in French and Dutch.

• Actors Studio and Styx, run by the cooperative nouveau cinema. Both cinemas screen interesting films in their original version with French and Dutch subtitles. Actor's studio, Petite Rue des Bouchers - Kleine Beenhouwersstraat, Brussels 1000, tel: 025121696 or Cinéma Styx, Rue de l'Arbre Bénit - Gewijde Boomstraat 72, Ixelles-Elsene 1050.

• Cinema Nova [17] is an independent-to-the-bone cinema showcasing the more esoteric side of cinema - films which would not be shown elsewhere are generally shown here. A Korean Ultraman rip-off, a Pakistani documentary or a bleak Chilean cinema vérité flick? Only at Nova. Nova Cinema, 3 rue Arenberg-Arenbergstraat, Brussels 1000.

• Arenberg [18] is a good arthouse cinema with a well-programmed selection of films. Especially good for the newer arthouse flicks. Cinéma Arenberg, 26 Galerie de la Reine - Koninginnegalerij, Brussels 1000.

• Musée du Cinema/Filmmuseum [19] is part of the Centre for Fine Arts and features a carefully chosen selection of contemporary and classic arthouse films. The best thing about this isn't just the building (due to be restored soon) but also the fact that the entrance fee is cheap. So if you can't live without your dose of Werner Herzog or Jan Svankmajer fret not - this place won't cost you an arm and a leg. Royal Film Museum, 9 Rue Baron Horta - Baron Hortastraat, Brussels 1000.

• Vendome [20] is yet another arthouse cinema. It's located near the Porte de Namur (Naamsepoort) and acts as the metaphysical gateway to a lively african neighbourhood known locally as Matongé. Vendome, 18 Chaussée de Wavre - Waversesteenweg, Ixelles-Elsene 1050.

• Flagey [21] is the old broadcasting headquarters and now houses the regional TV station TVBrussel[22]. It labels itself 'the sound and images factory'. Quite an apt description - arthouse films, theatre pieces or world-renowned musicians are all featured here. Flagey, Place Sainte-Croix - Heilig-kruisplein, Ixelles-Elsene 1050.

• UGC De Brouckère [23]. This is the most centrally located UGC in Brussels. Another UGC exists in Ixelles. As far as programming goes it's the usual Hollywood and mainstream European fare you'd expect from any other UGC in Europe. UGC De Brouckère, 38 Place De Brouckère - De Brouckèreplein, Brussels 1000.

• Kinepolis [24] was the first megaplex in the world. It's located at Heysel, near the Atomium, and has 25 screens showing a wide selection of mainstream films.

• BIFFF [25] is Brussels' international fantasy film festival (film fantastique in french). This two-weeks festival is scheduled yearly in March and is a must see for tourist and locals alike.

• Offscreen [26] is a showcase for unusual, independent and unreleased films, cult classics, extraordinary documentaries and offbeat genres from around the world. Takes place during the month of February and/or March in co-production with Cinema Nova[27] and in collaboration with the Film Museum of the Royal Belgian Film Archive[28].

Landmarks

• Grand Place-Grote Markt [7]. Surrounded by the city tower and a range of beautiful 300 year old buildings. In the evening, surrounded by bright lumination, it is simply ravishing. Some evenings a music and light show is provided with the buildings serving as a canvas. Have a "Gauffre Liègoise-Luikse wafel" here (Belgian waffle with caramelized sugar)—the best ones are available from the little shops off the northeast corner of the Grand Place-Grote Markt.
• Manneken Pis, [8] - Just a short walk from the Grand Place-Grote Markt is the Manneken Pis, a small bronze statue thought to represent the "irreverent spirit" of Brussels. This statue of a child performing one of Nature's most basic functions is believed to have been inspired either by a child who, while in a tree, found a special way to drive away invading troops. Belgians have created hundred of outfits for this statue. One story goes that a father was missing his child and made a declaration to the city that when he found him he would build a statue of him, doing whatever it was that he was doing. Thus, a statue of a litle boy peeing was created.
• Parc du Cinquantenaire-Jubelpark. Definitely check out the Arc de Triomphe-Triomfboog on the east side of town. It's in the Parc du Cinquantenaire-Jubelpark. It is possible to go up to the terrasse above the arch, from where you'll have a good view of the city (free entrance). Take Metro line 1 east, exit Schumann and walk east or exit Mérode and walk west.
• Rue des Bouchers-Beenhouwersstraat. There are many excellent restaurants in this area, but be weary of those targeting just the tourists.

• The Bourse - Stock market building in Brussels.

• Flea Market, The Marché aux Puces-Vlooienmarkt in Place du Jeu de Balle-Vossenplein, every day from 7am to 2pm. The market offers everything from the weird to the wonderful at rock-bottom prices.

• Ferry Trip. The ferry is a tiny, electrically operated pontoon that makes a 1-minute crossing to Robinson's Island in the lake at the heart of Bois de la Cambre.

Museums and Galleries

• Musées royaux d'Art et d'Histoire (MRAH) - Koninklijke Musea voor Kunst en Geschiedenis (KMKG), Parc du Cinquantenaire 10, +32 (0)2 741 7211, [9]. Open Tu-Fr 9.30am-5pm, Sa-Su and holidays 10am-5pm, closed Mo and various holidays, last entry 4pm. This museum has an important collection of art objects from different civilizations from all over the world. The museum was founded in 1835 and was located in the Hallepoort/Porte de Hal, one of the last remaining medieval city gates of Brussels. Adults €5.

• Musées Royaux des Beaux Arts - Koninklijke Musea voor Schone Kunsten, Rue de la Régence-Regentschapstraat 3, at Place Royale-Koningsplein, +32 (0)2 508 3211, [10]. Museum of Historical Art Tues-Sun 10am-noon and 1-5pm; Museum of Modern Art Tue-Sun 10am-1pm and 2-5pm. Feature both historical art and modern art in the one building. In a vast museum of several buildings, this complex combines the Musée d'Art Ancien-Museum voor Oude Kunst and the Musée d'Art Moderne-Museum voor Moderne Kunst under one roof (connected by a passage). The collection shows off works, most of them Belgian, from the 14th to the 20th century, starting in the historical section, with Hans Memling's portraits from the late 15th century, which are marked by sharp lifelike details, works by Hiëronymus Bosch, and Lucas Cranach's Adam and Eve. You should particularly seek out the subsequent rooms featuring Pieter Brueghel, including his Adoration of the Magi. Don't miss his unusual Fall of the Rebel Angels, with grotesque faces and beasts. But don't fear, many of Brueghel's paintings, like those depicting Flemish village life, are of a less fiery nature. Later artists represented include Rubens, Van Dyck, Frans Hals, and Rembrandt. Next door, in a circular building connected to the main entrance, the modern art section has an emphasis on underground works - if only because the museum's eight floors are all below ground level. The collection includes works by van Gogh, Matisse, Dalí, Tanguy, Ernst, Chagall, Miró, and local boys Magritte, Delvaux, De Braekeleer and Permeke. Don't miss David's famous "Death of Marat." € 5.00 adults, € 2.50 students/seniors/disabled visitors, € 1.25 children 12-18, under 12 free.

• Musée Belvue, Paleizenplein 7 Place des Palais, +32 (0)70 22 0492, [11]. Features Belgium's history. Before it became a museum, the former 18th century luxury hotel was also a royal residence. Open from Tuesday to Sunday, from 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. (June to September), from 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. (October to May). BELvue: 3 euros, Coudenberg: 4 euros, BELvue + Coudenberg: 5 euros.

• Natural Sciences Museum of Belgium, Rue Vautier 29 (near Luxembourg station), ☎ +32 (0)2 627 4238, [12]. Open: daily from 9:30am to 4:45pm; Saturday, Sunday and during school holidays (except the Summer break), from 10am to 6pm; during the Summer break daily from 9:30 am to 4:45 pm daily and in weekends from 10 am to 6 pm. . The museum is well-known for its famous collection of iguanodons (dinosaurs discovered in a coal-mine in Belgium). The dinosaur collection has been refreshed in October 2007 and includes discovery activities for the children. The other parts of the museum are also interesting, as an exhibit of all animals that live in our houses and a collection of mammals. Price between 4,50 € and 7 € - free the first Wednesday of each month as of 1pm. (50.837505654430934, 4.376206398010254) edit

• Horta Museum, 25, rue Américaine, Saint-Gilles, (tram 81, tram 92 (place Janson), bus 54), +32 (0)2 543 0490, Fax +32 (0)2 538 7631, [13]. Open daily 2pm-5:30pm, closed Mo. The home of noted Belgian Art Nouveau architect and designer Victor Horta. Seeing where he lived and worked is a great way to get an introduction to the art nouveau style in Brussels. It is one of four Horta works to be inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Adults €7, students / seniors €3, guided tours available by appointment.

• Royal Museum for Central Africa, (RMCA), Leuvensesteenweg 13, 3080 Tervuren (tram 44), [14]. The Museum is home to some truly remarkable collections. Its collection of ethnographic objects from Central Africa is in fact the only one of its kind in the world. It also contains the entire archives of Henry Morton Stanley which are of great historical value.

• Belgian Comic Strip Center (Centre Belge de la Bande Dessinée, Belgisch Centrum van het Beeldverhaal), 20 Rue des Sables, ☎ +32/2/219 19 8 (visit@comicscenter.net, fax: +32/2/219 23 76), [15]. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Located in Europe's earliest Shopping-Mall (a shiny Jugendstil palais). There is a permanent exposition featuring the early beginning of comics as well as it's development. There is enough room for other varying expositions. The bookshop at the ground floor sells many different comics. A readers' library operates on the ground floor, where, for a low entrance fee, you can read many different comic books. € 7.50 adults, € 6.00 students/seniors. (50.85098919304033, ) edit

• Musée du Cinéma-Filmmuseum. See the history of film-making, it's free to look around, and classic and cult films are shown at low prices. Rue Baron Hortastraat, walk from Gare Centrale-Centraalstation.

• Autoworld, Parc du Cinquantenaire 11, ☎ 2 736.41.65, [16]. 10:00 - 18:00 (4/1-9/30) 10:00-17:00 (10/1 -3/31). Automobiles from the dawn of the motoring age to 1970s including the earliest Mercedes, Renaults, BMW Isettas, Tatras, Ford T-birds, even a jeepney from the Philippines. € 6. (50.83994866276926, 4.393753769741267) edit

By plane

• Brussels Airlines [2] serve Brussels from many destinations worldwide.

Brussels' main airport is Brussels International Airport- previously known as Zaventem (IATA code BRU). From the airport, a train (€ 2.90) runs every 15 mins to Brussels Nord, with the journey taking 15 minutes. There is also a bus (numbers 12 and 11) (€ 3) every 20 to 30 minutes via Rondpoint Schumann to the Place de Luxembourg district, from where the same ticket is valid for another 30 minutes on the metro or busses into the centre. A taxi to the centre costs around € 25 when booked in advance, otherwise around € 35. Taxis bleus: +32 (0)2 268 0000, Taxi Brussels: +32 (0)2 411 4142, Taxis verts: +32 (0)2 349 4949. If you've just arrived at the airport's train station, first check the time of the next train then go up one level and check whether a bus 11 or 12 is about to depart and take whichever is quicker depending on your final destination.

There are several budget airlines including Ryanair [3] whom fly to Charleroi airport, which is south of Brussels (IATA code CRL) and is one hour away from Brussels city centre by coach (€ 11), or by bus to Charleroi station and then by train. You can also get a taxi from the airport to the city centre, but this will cost approximately € 90 and is a fixed price.

Antwerp airport (IATA code ANR) also has a good train connection to Brussels.

By train

Brussels has three main train stations: Bruxelles Midi-Brussel Zuid, to the south of the city core, Bruxelles Central-Brussel Centraal, which is right next to the city centre, and Bruxelles Nord-Brussel Noord, to the north of the city center (at Place Rogier). Unfortunately, most high-speed trains stop only at Midi/Zuid, so you need to take the Metro (or an ordinary train) a few stops north to get to Grand Place.

• The high speed Thalys train connects Brussels with Cologne (2h23), Paris (1h20) and Amsterdam (2h00). There are numerous rebates for in advance, to over € 150 single on the day.
• There is also an hourly Intercity train from Brussels midi/central/north to Amsterdam (via Schiphol airport). A day return from Brussels to Amsterdam takes 2:50 hours. You don't need a reservation. A weekend return ticket costs € 41.40.
• The Eurostar train line links Midi/Zuid with Lille Europe (39m from € 22), Ashford (1h38m from € 40) and London St. Pancras (1h51m from € 40). Most Eurostar tickets are also valid for internal train travel in Belgium (to and from any Belgian train station), so once in Belgium travel is free. Check in the bottom left hand corner of your ticket and confirm this before you get on the train.
• Eurostar bookings and queries at tel.: 02 528 28 28.
• German ICE connects thrice a day to Frankfurt (93€ one way).

By bus

• Eurolines, +32 (0)2 274 1350 (U.K. +44 08 705 143 219), Fax +32 (0)2 201 1140. Offers bus travel from many countries to Brussels, for example 8 hours from London Victoria station at € 39. In Brussels, they stop outside the Gare du Nord-Noordstation and Gare du Midi-Zuidstation train stations.

• Gulliver's, +49 (3)0 311 0211. Offers bus travel from Germany to many countries, for example 11 hours from Hamburg at € 19 in advance, € 46 normal price.

By train & bus

Brussels has 3 metro lines, many buses and several tram lines, most run by STIB-MIVB except for the buses, which are run by De lijnand Le Tec. A card that can be used for ten rides with public transport costs €11. One hour tickets cost €1.50 if pre-purchased and are available from the driver for €2. One, five and ten ride tickets are available at almost all metro and train stations. You validate the ticket in the small orange machines located in buses/trams, or at the entrace to metro stations/major tram stops. The orange machines time-stamp the ticket, both in ink and magnetically, and it will be valid for one hour. You can interrupt your ride and interchangeably use any STIB/MIVB transport. You should revalidate your ticket for each new ride. There are also one-day tickets available, for € 4,00. On Saturdays, Sundays and holidays you can take another person with you free of charge.

Other forms of transport are:

• The train service NMBS/SNCB, +32 (0)2 528 2828, [4].
• The Flemish region (Dutch speaking) public bus service De Lijn, +32 070 220 200, [5].
• The Walloon region (French speaking) public bus company TEC, +32 010 23 5353, [6]. (Website in 3 languages: German, English and Dutch).

By bike

The easiest way to see the city is to take one of the interesting tours offered by Brussels Bike Tours. They take you on an easy (no hills) ride that lets you discover the city in just 4 hours.

Since 2006, the city offers low-cost short-term "CycloCity" rentals at various fixed locations near the central city. The system only accepts Smart cards (the ones with an electronic chip and activated by a PIN code), it does not accept the regular magnetic stripe cards. The minimum is €0.50 for the first half hour, any additional hour costs €0.50, registration costs €1.50 and lasts a week. It is advisable to wear a helmet and a fluo vest. The bikes are robust, but rather heavy, sometimes an inconvenience on Brussels' many hills. More detailed information can be found online at Cyclocity (English, French and Dutch).

Very few shops in Brussels open before 10am, and most kick off about 10:30-11am. Many shops are closed on Sunday and Monday.

• Shopping at Galeries Saint Hubert-Sint Hubertusgalerijen. The world's first shopping mall, opened in 1847, is a light and airy triple-gallery enclosing boutiques, bookshops, cafés, restaurants, and a theater and cinema.

• Beer Mania claims to have a stock of over 400 beers.

• Film :
  • Cinema Excellence, 94 - 96 Boulevard Anspachlaan. A must for all movielovers. Great collection classics and rare dvd's, books, vintage movie posters, screenprints, postcards, Tel +32 2 502 84 68.

• Books:
  • Comic books and rare books. De Slegte on Rue des Grands Carmes-Lievevrouwbroersstraat, FNAC on Rue Neuve-Nieuwstra, 100 Boulevard Anspachlaan. Right in the center and one of the most up to date stores when it comes to contemporary comics.
  • Filigranes, the largest bookshop in Brussels, open 7 days a week, and features a small bar/café inside and quite often live music, located at 39 Avenue des Arts-Kunstlaan.
  • Sterling Books, One of the more popular English bookshops in downtown Brussels.
  • Pele-Mele, Boulevard Maurice Lemonnierlaan, 55 & 59 (Metro "Anneessens") - maze-like, second-hand bookshop with huge selection of used books at bargain prices. A bookworm's haven.
  • Waterstone's, 71-75 Boulevard Adolphe Maxlaan (Metro "De Brouckère"). English-language books.
  • FNAC, City 2 commercial center, Rue neuve. A big book/CD/DVD/electronics shop.
  • Mediamarket, 111-123 Rue Neuve. This shop is at the uppermost level of the Galeria Inno department store. Sells CDs, DVDs and consumer electronics. Slightly cheaper than FNAC.

• Chocolate:
  • Leonidas, branches across the city. Simply the best value, at 4.35 Euros for 250gm, and very popular with the locals.
  • Marcolini, 39 Place du Grand Sablon. Arguably the best Belgian chocolates.
  • Wittamer, 6-12-13 Place du Grand Sablon. Another excellent chocolate maker.
  • Chocopolis, 81 Rue du Marché aux Herbes. Between Grand Place and Central Station. Pick and choose your favorite type of chocolates, all at reasonable prices.
  • Maison Renardy 17, rue de Dublin 1050 +32 02 514 30 17 Bruxelles. A great boutique shop with delicious chocolate and friendly service. Stop by for a cup of tea or coffee, and get one of their chocolates free with your tea. Still peckish? You're able to bring a whole box home.

• Shopping:
  • General shopping along Rue Neuve-Nieuwstraat with GB supermarket at City 2 accessed from Rue Neuve-Nieuwstraat and Metro Rogier.
  • Galeria Inno, 111-123 Rue Neuve. Department store (fashion, cosmetics, etc.)
  • Belgian Lace is among the best in the world. Several shops are located at the Grand' Place-Grote Markt itself.

There is plenty of good eating to be had in Brussels. Most people concentrate on the three classics: mussels (moules), fries (frites) and chocolate. A few more adventurous bruxellois dishes include anguilles au vert / paling in't groen (river eels in green sauce), meat balls in tomato sauce, stoemp (mashed vegetables and potatoes) and turbot waterzooi (turbot fish in cream and egg sauce). For dessert, try a Belgian waffle (gauffre), also available in a square Brussels version dusted with powdered sugar, and choices of bananas, whipped cream and many other toppings. Although many prefer the round, syrup-coated version from Liège.

Budget

The matter over which establishment serves up the best frites (locally known as fritkots) remains a matter of heated debate. Some argue that the best frites in Brussels are served at the fritkot near the Barriere de Saint-Gilles, while others defend St-Josse's Martin (Place Madou) as the prime purveyor of the authentic Brussels frite just as others claim Antoine remains the king of the local french fry.

FRITKOTS

• Maison Antoine, Place Jourdanplein - tasty fries with a large collection of sauces situated on a square close to the European Parliament. You can eat your fries (frites) in one of the several bars/cafés that carries the sign frites acceptés.

• Chez Martin. The small nondescript fritkot plonked on Place Madou (Saint-Josse-ten-Noode/Sint-Joost-ten-Node) and run by the calm and affable Martin is a serious contender for the best friterie in Brussels. You can eat your frites at the nearby Cafe Gambrinus and wash them down with a pintje or two.

• La Friterie de la Place de la Chapelle, rue Haute-Hoogstraat (near Les Marolles). Another personal choice for the best frites in Brussels: the big chunks of potato, fried golden, and served with the usual dazzling array of sauces.

• La Friterie de la Barrière, rue du Parc - Parkstraat (just off the Barrière de St-Gilles). Golden and crispy frites - just the way they should be. This exterior of this fritkot also serves as mini-museum with several tracts, articles and other literature on the fronts and sides of the shack on the good ol' Belgian frite.

OTHERS

• Arcadi, 1B rue d'Aremberg, just at the exit of "Galleries de la Reine", in the direction opposite to the Grand-Place - a quirky combination of old and new, the menu ranges all over the place but the reason people flock here is the selection of over 30 sweet and savoury pies (tartes). A slice big enough for a meal, served with salad, costs €4-6.

Delivery

Quality food is available online in and around Brussels from various companies, including the webportal ebistro.

Mid-range

Brussels' tourist restaurant gauntlet can be found in Rue des Bouchers-Beenhouwerstraat [29], just to the north of Grand Place. The place has a bad reputation for waiters imposing themselves on passers-by, trying to lure customers into their restaurant. The authorities are aware of this, and are trying to take measures. Some restaurants may also tempt you with cheap prices for the menus, but when seated, the item on the menu happens to be unavailable, and you're forced to accept another, noticeably more expensive dish. Often, the exaggerated price of the wines will also compensate for the attractive menu. Knowing this however, you may be able to negotiate a better deal before entering.

A few restaurants stand out from the crowd though:

• Aux Armes de Bruxelles, 13 Rue des Bouchers-Beenhouwerstraat, +32 (0)2 511 5550, closed Mo - basic honest food, including some very decent moules. Crowded, although worth the wait.

• Chez Léon, 18, Rue des Bouchers, +32 (0)2 511 1415 [30]. Now franchised into France as well, this is the original and while it's huge and looks like a tourist trap, the moules are excellent and it's packed every day. Moules, beer and a starter will set you back 25 Euro, and kids eat for free.

• Scheltema, 7, Rue des Dominicains, +32 (0)2 512 2084. Specializes in fresh and tasty seafood.

Outside the Rue des Bouchers, you may try:

• Au Pré Salé, 20, Rue de Flandre-Vlaamsesteenweg (near place St Catherine), +32 (0)2 513 6545. A former butcher shop, locals flock here for some of the best moules in town, sold by the kilo (figure on 24 Euros) and served up in half a dozen ways. Also serves the full range of other Brussels favorites.

• Falstaff, 19, Rue Henri Mausstraat 19 (by the Bourse-Beurs). Has cheap and decent food and is open every day until 02:00, around 20-30 Euros.

• Le Beau Soleil, 7, Rue Joseph Lebeau (Sablon area). This tiny restaurant (approx. 14 seats) looks like a violin workshop, so you sit next to all the tools and half finished violins. Unlike other Belgian restaurants, it is open from 9am to 5pm (Mo-Fr), 9am to 6pm (Sat,Sun), closed on Wednesday. The menu is small but really delicious. The atmosphere is informal and friendly.

• Les Brassins, Rue Keyenveld-Keienveldstraat 36, Ixelles-Elsene, +32 (0)2 512 6999. Its crowd is mostly made out of young couples or students. Rich choice of beer, with more than 50 varieties on the menu, and good quality of food.

• 'T Kelderke, Grand'Place, 15 Grote Markt, +32 (0)2 513 7344. €9-19 Main courses. €8.50 Plat du jour. Well-made typical Belgian fare. Try the carbonnades à la flamande (Flemish beef stew) & mussels. Note that this place can feel cramped when full of diners.

Close to the Bourse Jules Van Praetstraat (rue Jules Van Praet) is another rapidly developing street of restaurants and bars. Those of note include:

• Lune de Miel, +32 (0)2 513 9181. Some very tasty Thai and Vietnamese dishes served in a fine decor.

• Shamrock, +32 (0)2 511 4989. Its exterior and misleading name belie a great range of individually cooked Indian food. Get to know the owner and he'll treat you like an old friend.

• Thanh-Binh , +32 (0)2 513 8118. The restaurant is very popular amongst the Euroworkers and business types common in Brussels and serves good Thai food. It can get crowded and is often noisy but is well worth a try.

Place Saint Catherine is also a popular area, and once the fishmongering centre of Brussels. While many of the fish shops have moved elsewhere, it is still home to many good seafood restaurants featuring lobster as a speciality.

• Jacques, Quai aux Briques 44, +32 (0)2 513 2762. An authentic old bistro, with a charming kitch decor. Very good fish.

• Viva M'Boma, Rue de Flandre 17, +32 (0)2 512 1593. For real Belgian home cooking. Terrace in the summer.

It is outside the touristic centre that the best deals can be found. Here are a few adresses in the Upper Town and Louise Area:

• Madou's Provence, 23, Rue de la Presse, Bruxelles. +32 (0)2 217 3831. Closed Saturday noon and Sundays. Innovative southern French cuisine at affordable prices.

• Chez Oki, 62, Rue Lesbroussart, Ixelles-Elsene [31]. French-Japanese fusion cuisine in a modern decor. The chef has worked for prestigious restaurants in Paris. Reasonable prices.

Splurge

• Belga Queen [32], Rue du Fossé aux Loups-Wolvengracht 32. A restaurant within an old, restored bank building. Has an oyster bar, gorgeous bathrooms (with strange stall doors), and a cigar bar housed in the old bank vaults. A good looking younger crowd seem to enjoy this place, and don't miss the offbeat restrooms.

• La Belle Maraichere, Place Sainte-Catherine 11, +32 (0)2 512 9759, closed We-Th. A classic fish restaurant. Very fresh fish and good old traditional cooking.

• Les Larmes du Tigres (Tears of the Tiger), Justitiepaleis, de Wynantsstraat 21, +32 (0)2 512 1877, closed Tu, [33]. Upmarket and stylish Thai restaurant found just behind the Palais de Justice and better than most food found in Thailand.

• De Gulden Boot (la Chaloupe d'Or), 24, Grote Markt (Grand Place) - One of the most famous restaurants in Brussels, situated on Grand Place. Beautiful old building, but too much of a tourist trap. And even after a 200 € dinner, you will get charged 0.5 € if you visit the toilet.

Vegetarian

• Dolma - A very nice vegetarian buffet Monday till Saturday from 19 till 21h [34]. Chaussée d'Ixelles 329. Reservation 02/6498981.
• La Tsampa' - An organic/vegetarian shop annex restaurant [35], closed on Saturday and Sunday. Rue de Livourne 109.

Belgium is to beer what France is to wine, it is home to one of the greatest beer traditions in the world, and Brussels is a great place to sample some of the vast variety on offer. Typical beers of Brussels are gueuze (rather bitter) and kriek (rather sweet, cherry based).

A special drink only found in Brussels is the "half-en-half" ("half and half"). It's a mixture of white wine and champagne.

Pubs

• "Brasserie De l'Union", 55 Parvis De Saint-Gilles - Sint-Gillisvoorplein. This is a place with a true "atmosphere", wooden chairs and tables, big old wooden bar, a crowd that reflects the diversity of Saint-Gilles. Everybody is welcome and come as you are. This is a bar that just oozes human warmth and a comfortable ambiance. When the sunny days are coming, the terrace is one of the best in Saint-Gilles.

• À La Bécasse, Rue de Taborastraat 11. +32 (0)2 511 0006. Serves a typical Brussels product this slightly sweetened Lambic beer, white beer based on Lambic, Kriek Lambic and so on. The entrance is not that easy to find.

• À La Mort Subite, 7, rue Montagne-aux-Herbes Potagères [36]. This is the Brussels cafe par excellence. Opened since 1927, the decor remains unchanged but still retains its charm. A warm welcome greets the eclectic clientile of which La Mort remains a firm favorite.

• Bier Circus, 57, Rue de l'Enseignement-Onderrichtsstraat, +32 (0)2 218 0034, [37]. Has an impressive selection of beers, including some extremely hard to find beers. Examples of rare beers they have in stock, are Lam Gods (a delicious beer brewed from figs) and the rarest of the Trappist beers, winner of the Beer of the Year 2005, Westvleteren.

• BXL Cafe/Bar, Place de la Vieille Halle aux Blés-Oud Korenhuis 46, +32 (0)2 502 9980. Open 7/7 12h00>24h00 (Fri/Sat>01h00). A stylish, friendly internet cafe in the center of Brussels. Offering high speed internet access, occasional live music/DJ, latest movies shown on video screens around the bar, regular art exhibitions. Gay friendly space with women's night every Wednesday from 20h00.

• Bizon Cafe, Karperbrug 7 Rue Pont de la Carpe, [38] is a relaxed blues/rock bar in St Gery area. Excellent place for a beer or five.

• The Monk, 42 St. Katelijnestraat/ Rue St. Catherine, [39] is a large proper brown bar with walls covered in dark wood and mirrors. Lots of young people from the neighborhood, cool music and a decent Malt whiskey selection.

• Delirium Cafe, 4A, Impasse de la Fidelité-Getrouwheidsgang (on a pedestrian only sidestreet), +32 (0)2 514 4434, [40]. Right in the centre of Brussels within five minutes walk of the Grand Place. This bar is all about the beer, offering 3000+ different variations from all over the world. Popular amongst foreigners. Check if they have your own local beer. View their website for more info.

• Chez Moeder Lambiek, Rue Savoiestraat 68, behind Saint Gilles-Sint-Gillis city hall, has the largest list of different beers, with several hundred obscure beers not likely found anywhere else. This cafe is one of the last remaining old-fashioned brown cafe's in Brussels.

• Le Greenwich, 7 Rue des Chartreux - Kartuizerstraat, +32 (0)2 511 4167. Another wood-panelled brown cafe where the only sound is the sound of the chess pieces on the chess board. Shh!

• Brasserie Verschueren, 11-13 Parvis de St-Gilles - Sint-Gillisvoorplein, tel: 02/539 40 68. Something of an institution in hip Saint-Gilles. Under the watchful eye of the portly, bearded deep-voiced owner, hipsters, starving artists and local poodle-brandishing ladies mingle and drink endless beers and coffees. A beautiful woodwork football (soccer) tableau shows the scores of some long lost second and third division teams from yesteryear.

• Cirio, 18 Rue de la Bourse - Beursstraat (near the Bourse). A traditional café where time has come to a stop. Also offers some simple meals. Don't forget to visit the bathroom, with the original tiles and porcelain.

Bars and clubs

• Mappa Mundo, Place Saint Géry-Sint Goriksplein 2, +32 (0)2 514 3555. One of the many trendy bar/cafés located on the popular Place Saint Géry-Sint Goriksplein. You are assured good drinking in at least one of these establishments, which are very popular with younger Eurocrats, foreigners and interns, giving them a rather friendly cosmopolitan character.
• Le Tavernier. While all the above locations are situated downtown in central Brussels, this location is the most popular bar on a strip of bars right by the Cimétière d'Ixelles-Kerkhof van Elsene. It's location right off the student campus make it extremely popular with students who just want to kick back and have a few relaxed drinks. Note on certain nights there is also live music (making the establishment a lot more hectic). Worth a look especially towards the beginning and end of the academic year and in the summer (especially for their Jazzbreaks nights). They also have a website. 445 Chaussée de Boondael-Boondaalsesteenweg.
• Hydra-breaks organises "Hydra Sessions" and also "Next Level" and "Caliente" drum and bass parties at various locations. Hydra Sessions are major D&B nights with international headliners such as Pendulum, Spor, or Raiden, along national djs.
• Bulex nights is a monthly night out for many locals since more than 10 years, blending all kind of music in unexpected venues. Come as you are.
• The Fuse (Rue Blaes 208) is where it all started and is a Brussels institution. Be sure to check it out.
• The Botanique is the place for rock and pop. They do, on occasion, bring more experimental acts.
• The Botanique's Flemish counterpart, the Ancienne Belgique features the same mix of rock and pop with the occasional excursion into more unchartered, experimental territory.
• Recyclart - For electronica, noise-rock, electroclash, minimal techno as well as art exhibitions, social projects and installations.
• Magasin4 at Rue des Magasins 4 (Metro: Yser/Ijzer) is proud to be loud. Punk, hardcore, noise and even hip-hop and French Chanson feature regularly here.
• Structure Beton is the place for skewed electroclash, drum 'n' bass, drill 'n' bass and anything else 'n' bass.
• Gays and Lesbians: the two biggest monthly gay clubs remain at La Demence at the Fuse. 100% House & Trance. Don't miss the crowded (but super small) Le Belgica bar, which plays house music.