
The low-lying Danube plain in and around what is now Vienna has had a human population since at least the late Paleolithic: one of the city's most famous artifacts, the 24,000-year-old Venus of Willendorf, now in Vienna's Natural History Museum, was found nearby. Vienna's own recorded history began with the Romans, who founded it in the 1st Century CE as Vindobona, one of a line of Roman defensive outposts against Germanic tribes. Vindobona's central garrison was on the site of what is now the Hoher Markt (the "High Market" due to its relative height over the Danube), and you can still see the excavations of its foundations there today.
Vienna hosted the Habsburg court for several centuries, first as the Imperial seat of the Holy Roman Empire, then the capital of the Austrian Empire, and later of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, which finally fell in 1918 with the abdication of the last Emperor Karl I. The court tremendously influenced the culture that exists here even today: Vienna's residents are often overly formal, with small doses of courtliness, polite forms of address, and formal dress attire. One of the many paradoxes of the quirky city is that its residents can be equally modern and progressive as they are extremely old-fashioned.
The empires also served to make Vienna a very metropolitan city at an early time, and especially so through the years of industrialization and fall of the Austro-Hungarian Empire at the turn of the 20th century. Imperial Austria and Austro-Hungary were multi-lingual, multi-ethnic empires and although the German-speakers normally played the dominate roll in Vienna there has long been ethnic and lingual diversity in the city. Proof of Jews in the city dates back to 10th century [2]. After World War Two many of the city's minorities had been exiled or killed and much of the city lay in ruin. When Austria was given souvernity after the post World War Two occupation, it was eventually established that Austria was going the way of the West and not that of the Eastern Block. So the city became more isolated from its previous ties to its Slavic and Hungarian neighbors; the east of Austria was surounded by the Iron Curtain. Vienna had gone from being the well estabilished metropolitan city of Central Europe to the capital of small a predominately German-speaking nation of states with strong regional identities.
Since the formation of the first Austrian Republic and the first mayoral election 1919 the Socail-Democratic Party of Austria has had the majority of represenatives on the common council and controlled the mayoral seat. During the early years, the socialist Red Vienna ("Rote Wien") revolutionized the city, improving the extreme counditions that the industrial revolution and rapid urbanization had created. Most famously the city built many housing projects (housing estates or "Gemeindebauten"), and they also began to offer many social services and made improvements across the board in quality of life. The public housing that was built at that time is now famous for its distinctive style. To this day the city continues to build public housing and about a third of the city's residents live in it, some 600,000 people! Obviously through this high precentage, the quality, and the integration of public housing across the city have kept it from becomming as stigmatized as in most cities. The Viennese are used to having the city government in their lives, and of course have a love-hate relationship with it. Vienna functions own its own as a federal state in the Austrian system (along with 8 other states) and the sense of local pride and home is more of being Viennese than being Austrian, many say.
Traditional Vienna is but one of the many façades of this city, the downtown area of which is a UNESCO world heritage site and sometimes begrudgingly compared to an open air museum. But Vienna is also a dynamic young city, famous for its (electronic) music scene with independent labels, cult-status underground record stores, a vibrant club scene, multitudes of street performers, and a government that seems overly obsessed with complicated paperwork. However, people are willing to go out of their way or bend the rules a little if they feel they can do someone a favor.
The Viennese have a singular fascination with death, hence the popularity of the Zentralfriedhof (Central Cemetery), where there are more graves than living residents in Vienna, as a strolling location and of Schrammelmusik - highly sentimental music with lyrics pertaining to death. Old-fashioned Sterbevereine (funeral insurance societies-literally translated "death clubs") provide members with the opportunity to save up for a nice funeral throughout the course of their lives. This service does not exist solely to save their children the hassle and expense - it is considered absolutely mandatory to provide for an adequate burial. Vienna even has the "Bestattungsmuseum", a museum devoted to coffins and mortuary science. The country’s morbid obsession may be correlated with its higher suicide rate when compared with the rest of Europe. Here too, the socialist Vienna has its hand, the city also offers a socialized undertaking service [3], with hearses branded in the same department of public works logo as the subway cars, and a link to the transit-planner on their website.
Vienna is also famous for its coffee culture. "Let's have a coffee" is a very commonly heard phrase, because despite incursions by Starbucks and Italian-style espresso bars, the Kaffeehauskultur is still the traditional way to drink a cup of coffee, read the newspaper, meet friends, or fall in love.
Addresses in this articles are written with the district number preceding the street name, the same as street signs in Vienna. So 9., Badgasse 26 is Badgasse #26 in the 9th district. Hence you can also always tell what district you are in by the first number on street signs. Districts can also be made into a postal code by substituting the XX in A-1XX0 Vienna (0X for districts below 10), for instance A-1090 Vienna for the 9th district and A-1200 the 20th, and are sometimes referred to as such.
Common points of reference are often used in Vienna in addition to districts, most noteablly public transportation stops. Reference to U1/U4 Schwedeplatz or Schwedenplatz (U1, U4) means that something is near to the Schwedenplatz stop on the underground lines 1 and 4. Normally if the place is not directly at the subway stop you can ask around and find it easily.
The Vienna Tourist Board [4] operates information and booking booths at the airport Arrival Hall, 7AM-11PM and in the center at 1., Albertinaplatz/Maysedergasse. Information and free maps are also avialible from the ÖBB InfoPoints and offices at train stations.
Vienna has 23 districts or wards know singularly as Bezirk in Austrian German. These function subordinatly to the city as decentralized adminstrative branches of the commune, as well as making local decisions. They vary immensely in size and each has its own flair.
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The city has a very centralized layout radiating from the historic first district, or Inner-City with the Stephansdom and Stephansplatz at the centre of a bullseye. It is encircled by the Ringstraße (Ring Road), a grand boulevard constructed along the old city walls, which were torn down at the end of the 19th century. Along the Ringstraße are many famous and grand buildings, including the Rathaus [City Hall], the Austrian Parliament, the Hofburg Palace, the Natural History Museum, the Museum of Art History (Kunsthistorisches Museum), and the State Opera House.
Districts 2-9 are considered the core districts and are gathered within the Gürtel (Belt Road), which encircles the core districts as an outer ring parellel to the Ring around the first district, with the noteable exception of Leopoldstart (District 2).
Leopoldstadt (the 2nd District) is the southern half of the island that is formed between the Danube and the Danube Canal. It streches from the more wild forests of the Prater in the south up through the point where the Prater becomes a more formal park and amusement park where the transportation hub Praterstern is located. Going onward to the North are several neighborhoods from the Gründerzeit[5] with dense housing including impressive Neo-Baroque buildings. Towards the north of the district along the Danube Canal across from Schwedenplatz is the Karmaliterviertel (Karmaliter Quarter) which was once a Jewish ghetto and today is the hub of Jewish life in Vienna. This area is indeed quite diverse across the board and is becomming gentrified. At the edge of that area is the Augarten. The area past that has been hand-picked for an intense development project that will turn several former freight yards into entire new neighborhoods. Along the Danube are numerous massive housing projects from the twenties onward.
Landstraße (District 3) is a rather large district to the southeast of the center seperated more or less by the Wien River (which is partially underground and otherwise chanellized. Streching from the station Wien Mitte and the surrounding business and financial district where the lively shopping Landerstraßer Haupstraße shopping street begins over quiet residential areas where the Hundertwasser Haus is located all the way to the industrial hinterlands and the bus station at Erdberg in southeast to through neighborhoods countaining examples of public housing like the Rabenhof and many embassies to the Belvedere Palace and the Soviet Memorial at Schwarzenbergplatz.
Wieden (District 4) and Margareten (District 5) run from the area around the Opera south to where a the gigantic new central station is being built, with energetic pockets of businesses and squares to be discovered from the University of Technology to artsy galleries to a cluster of hair-cutting salons to even Vienna's miniture version of a Chinatown. This districts are bordered by the Wien River to the north.
Mariahilf (Distric 6) contrasts between the more raw areas around the Wien River where the Naschmarkt covers neighborhoods of bars and other popular bohemian and queer haunts along the Gumpfendorfer Straße, and it borders Neubau along Vienna's most popular shopping street the Mariahilferstraße up the the hill from the Gumpfendorfer Straße.
Neubau (District 7) starts with the aclaimed MuseumsQuartier next to the center and spreads across popular hip areas to the Westbahnhof (Western Railway Station).
Josefstadt (District 8) is the smallest district. Alsergrund (District 9) is known to be more affluent and also includes much of the University of Vienna several cozy business districts.
The outer 14 districts are largely less urban but are equally as diverse streching from Floridsdorf (21st District) which radiates from its own town center in the northeast on the eastern bank of the Danube and Donaustadt (22nd District) which includes a mix of farms, suburbia, soviet-style housing blocks, villages, the United Nations Headquarters and the Donauturn (Danube Tower) and includes the largest development project in Central Europe at Aspern, through tarditional worker-oriented districts like Simmering (11th District) and Favoriten (10th District) in the south to more mixed urban areas with much immigrant culture like Rüdolfsheim-Fünfhausen (15th District) and Ottakring (16th District) in the West and Briggitenau (20th District) in the northeast. Don't miss Schönbrunn Palace to the West along the Wien River in Hietzing (13th district).
| Climate | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Daily highs (°C) | 3 | 5 | 10 | 15 | 20 | 23 | 26 | 25 | 20 | 14 | 7 | 4 |
| Nightly lows (°C) | -2 | -1 | 2 | 6 | 10 | 13 | 15 | 15 | 12 | 7 | 2 | 0 |
| Precipitation (cm) | 3.7 | 3.9 | 4.6 | 5.2 | 6.2 | 7.0 | 6.8 | 5.8 | 5.4 | 4.0 | 5.0 | 4.4 |
Averages of Vienna between 1971-2000 | ||||||||||||
Spring starts sometime in late March, normally it is very breif and summer-like weather sets in before the trees have had time to grow back their leaves.
Summer in Vienna is usually warm. Weather in June and July is moderate and sunny with a light summer windy breeze. In August, there are some hot and humid days where it reaches 34°C (93°F), but overall, summer in Vienna is pleasant.
Autumn starts around September and it gets colder as it approaches November. A main disadvantage of the Viennese climate is that it is rather windy and usually overcast during these months.
Winter in Vienna can be just above 0°C (32°F) and drizzeling for days on end, or just below with dustings of snow that manage to melt again quickly. There is the occasional cold-snap where it will stay below freezing for a week or two at a time. Due to Vienna's relative easterly position in the Central European Time Zone its daylight hours (if its not too gray outside entirely) are relatively early during the winter.
In the summer, it's just wonderful to hang out in Museumsquartier in the evenings. The big yard is filled with large fiberglass sofas you can use for free. Optionally, you can buy drinks at the open air bars there. Just ask for a glass you can take away so you can use the sofas. During the day, a visit to Burggarten is highly recommended if you are looking for a more alternative, young crowd. Buy something to eat and drink at a supermarket and join the others on the grass.
If you are looking for more than just a religious building and, while on holiday, would like to worship in English, you will find many English-spaking churches in and around Vienna. You might like to try [136], [137], [138], [139]
Vienna International Airport (ICAO: LOWW, IATA: VIE) [6] is located ca. 18 km (11 miles) south-east of the Austrian capital near to the town of Schwechat, after which the airport is named.
The airport is the home base of the flag-carrier Austrian [7] and the budget airline Niki [8].
Most European airlines and a significant number of international airlines have direct connections to Vienna from their respective hubs. It is noteable that only Austrian Airlines fly to the Americas (New York, Toronto, Washington and Punta Cana) and AirTransat seasonally from Canada, there is no service to Northern England, Africa (aside from Egypt, Libiya and Tunisia), or Geneva making alternative airports more attractive from these origins.
There are numerous companies offering airport transportation just past customs. There are two very small monitors displaying all the next trains and the buses departing, to the right and left respecitvly at the back of the space where people recieve travellers. By preference:
Vienna airport has a giant duty free shopping area (70 shops, operated by Travel Value). Even for a cursory tour, plan at least 1 hour. Shopping area is just after ticket control counters--so you only need to checkin before getting to shops, not pass security check nor passport control.
Refer to the brouschure for locations and tips. Your best bet for receiving tax refund is to find a refund office in the city. Otherwise, indicate that you need to receive tax refund at check-in. You then take any checked luggage containing tax-free purchases to a customs office (right in the check-in area) to get a stamp and drop off the checked luggage; then visit a nearby refund office.
Customs officers don't normally ask you to actually unpack and show your purchases. You will be asked if any applicable purchases are in your hand luggage. Although it is illegal, you may be encouraged to lie to agents, saying that everything is in your checked luggage even if it isn't. This is due to an otherwise tideous process; you have to visit yet another office by the gates. (At the C Gates you will have to ring for an officer, wait to be picked up by bus and taken to the a refund office and back to your departure--allow 1 hour for the whole procedure.) Alternatively, you can visit a refund office on arrival in your home country--provided that you visited customs and had your recipeits stamped in Vienna. Additional commission or unfavourable exchange rate can apply if refunding in other country.
Bratislava Airport (ICAO: LZIB, IATA: BTS) [14] is located ca. 54 km (34 miles) from Vienna International Airport across the Slovak border. The airport is the largest in the Slovak Republic and the home base of Danube Wings [15], though the budget airline Ryanair [16] has the most flights. Transfer options:
There are a number of other smaller airports within two hours of Vienna which are served by budget airlines; it is therefore often cheaper to fly to a nearby city and connect by train or bus. Ryanair [23] flies to Linz (2 hours by train), Graz (2 1/2 hours by train), and Brno (2 1/2 hours by train or bus).
Budapest and Munich Airports are 4-5 hour journeys but can mean substatial savings on intercontinental trips. There is a thrice daily direct albet not so speedy shuttle from Budapest Ferihegy Airport to Vienna Schwechat Airport [24]. € 30. It is also possible to transfer via bus or train from Budapest city which can be reached easily from Ferihegy. From Munich International Airport you should take the commuter train into the city and transfer to a high-speed train (ICE, RailJet) to Vienna at Munich's main station. The ÖBB (Austrian Railways) [25] sell tickets directly from that airport to Vienna from €29.
The station names of all stops in Vienna start with its German name "Wien". This is internationally recognized and helpful for buying tickets. The railways are managed by the ÖBB (Austrian Federal Railways)[26]. Read more about train travel within Austria and reaching Austria by train.
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Station Construction until 2015 Until 2010 Vienna had several large train stations (Südbahnhof, Westbahnhof, Nord, Mitte). Currently Südbahnhof (South Station) has been closed for construction of a main station and the others are working but under construction. Many trains that used South Station now stop or terminate at the station Wien Miedling. Be sure to check scheduals and it is advised to take extra time when departing from these stations as the temporary provisions are not always easy to navigate. |
It can be puzzling to understanding where trains depart and arrive, i.e. trains heading East often leave from West Station. It is best to check the scheduals online and plug in the exact train, subway or tram stop you are going to/departing from, this will give you the quickest solution. Railway agents are likely to give you an easy answer where the most train to somewhere leave from, you may not be told about certain trains that don't fit the regular pattern.
Ticket offices are noramlly open during all departure hours at Wien Miedling and Wien West (around 5AM-11PM). It has come to light that with more trains leaving from stations like Wien Praterstern, trains depart outside of ticket office hours. If this is the case you can buy the ticket on-board from the conductor, they are only able to sell regular as well as certain discounted tickets (cash only), so it is best to buy ahead if possible.
There are very frequent trains for all neighboring regions and countries. Night trains and quicker Euro-City trains arrive from virtually every city in Central Europe. High-speed ICE, RailJet, and Pendilino trains arrive from places like Munich, Budapest, Zurich, and Prague. There are frequent (at least hourly) regional trains to Czech, Slovak and Hungarian border regions.
When buying tickets always consider two domestic tickets instead of one international one, as it is often cheaper. Tickets used to only be sold this way and can normally still be purchased to the border and then from the next conductor from there to your destination, sometimes you can even buy both tickets before departure. No, you don't actually have to change trains!
From Czech border towns and as far as Brno you can buy "Wien Spezial" discount ticket. Consider buying it conjunction with a domestic ticket if comming from elsewhere like Prague, they should be able to sell you both tickets.
The ÖBB sell one-way 'SparScheine' to Brno(€12) and Prague(€29). Its cheaper to just get this to Brno and buy an onward domest ticket to Prague(€10), and there is better availibilty than with the single Prague ticket.
EURegio tickets are valid from Vienna to cities near to the border and tourist towns, including the return ticket with-in four days; Znojmo €15, Mikulov €18, České Budějovice (Budweis) €27 or Český Krumlov €27, and Plzeň €29 (children half-price, weekly and monthy tickets availible).
From Budapest East/Kelti pu buy a discounted round-trip ticket, "kirandulójegy" (excursion or 4-day ticket) for €31. It includes the return with-in 4 days and is valid for all public transportation in Vienna for 4 days. So its a deal even if you don't need a return ticket to Budapest. There are limited amount of SparSchiene tickets each day for €13. All tickets are valid in all trains (including the high-speed RailJet). Trains confusingly depart Budapest East (Kelti pu) and arrive at Vienna West Station (Wien West). Direct trains run every two hours or more. Otherwise transfer at Győr.
to Hungary the ÖBB offers tickets from €19 to Budapest as well as the EURegio ticket (Vienna to Hungary and return with 4 days); Mosonmagyaróvár €12, Győr €19, Tatabánya €25, Fertöszentmiklós €19, and Szombathely € 22 (children half-price, weekly and monthy tickets availible).
From Bratislava a standard one-way ticket costs €9.
to Bratislava the ÖBB offers an EURegio ticket for €14 valid for a same-day return and on the public transportation in Bratislava.
A one-way ticket costs the same as EURegio but doesn't include public transportation in Bratislava. If you are headed to Bratislava Main Station (Hlavná stanica) you'll need a ticket from the edge of Vienna: 'Stadtgrenze' Wien-Erzherog-Karl-Str (given you have a valid public transit ticket) to the border at Marchegg (€5) from there to Bratislava is about €2 from the Slovakian coductor, if she makes it to you. Heading to Bratislava Petrzalka you can buy a ticket to the border at Kitsee, its only 2 km (€0.27) from Bratislava.
Each railway has an independent partnership with others, so tickets can be much cheaper to (or from) neighboring countries. A common type is the so called CityStar ticket that is valid for return and can be sold any station in both of the participating countries. Sopron in Hungary is near to Vienna (€14, hourly trains) for tickets on MÁV Hungarian Railways [27] at that train station (operated by the Raaberbahn Railway [28]). Hungarian prices [29]. Bratislava in Slovakia is another nearby alternative. Most tickets need to be purchased 3 days in advance, possibly meaning an extra trip to the border to buy the ticket in advance.
Car ownership is common in Vienna and about 1/3 of the trips taken with-in the city are by car. However driving can be confusing and expensive espeacially if you are not familiar with the city.
Most Austrian highways ("Autobahn") terminate/originate in Vienna. See the Austran article for more information about driving in Austria.
Avoid the A23 Südosttangente at rush hour. Traffic jams are almost guaranteed there as well as throughout the city streets at rush hour.
Parking anywhere within distircts 1-9 and in specially marked areas is restricted to 120 minutes (between nine and 22 hours, M-F) and subject to a fee of €1.20 per hour unless you have a resident permit. Payment is made by marking the time of arrival on a ticket ("Parkschein"), which can be bought at tobacco shops. Therefore, if you wish to leave your car in the central districts for the period of your stay, you cannot simply park it on the street. You must either book a hotel that offers parking or leave it at a commercial car park (Parkhaus, Parkgarage). These can be very expensive (for instance, €32 per day in the Parkgarage Freyung). A cheaper alternative is Park and Ride, normally available at U Bahn stations in the city periphery, for example at U3 Erdberg station (€2.70 per day), or to leave it on the street in one of the outer districts.
Most international busses (the following unless noted) leave from the Vienna International Busterminal (VIB) located adjacent to the subway stop Erdberg (U3), many also stop at the Airport or Südtirolerplatz(U1) where there is a bus depot in the southwest corner called "Waldmanngründen." Timetables [33].
It is safe to assume that discounts are avialible (about 10% from Eurolines affiliates, about 15% on independent carriers) for those under 26 and over 60 on walk-up fares but not on discounted advanced purchase ("promo") tickets.
Eurolines AT/Blaguss [34] manages many buses. Their own vehicles have assured quality but this is not the case of all of their international partners. Always check the web-pages of both the arrival and departure countries' Eurolines affiliated operator for the best price.
There are no sheerly private domestic inter-city lines in Austria. There are several regional services from Vienna operated by a mix of the federal government, the states of Lower Austria and Burgenland, local governments and coach operators. Sometimes the cash-price for these is marginally lower than the train, otherwise the normal VOR public transport rates apply. They are most useful in traveling to the countryside although timing and different departure locations in Vienna also can make them attractive in certain cases for inter-city travel. All routes are operated with high-quality coaches and regional buses.
If you are travelling to the Balkans there are plenty of buses daily. Some may not be advertized and tickets are often not for sale at the ticket counter, rather from the bus driver or attendant. Ask around, most of them leave in the afternoon. Buses from some non-EU countries allow smoking in part of the bus and may be subject to higher scrutiny at the border. For example a round-trip ticket to Belgrade can be found for €50. Many operators smuggle or transport goods to supplement thier low fares and the Hungarian border gaurds are not afraid partaking in bribery with non-EU operators, you will never be asked to participate monetarily, although a bus driver may ask to put a carton of cigaretts above your seat or in your luggage, you wont get in any troble for that but it is also okay to decline.
The following five companies opperate a daily joint service to Dresden and Berlin, and less regular service and cooperation to other cities across Germany. Check each as ticket prices vary:
It can be cheaper, faster and the buses can be more frequent if you change buses in Budapest, for instance on Eurolines HU/Volanzbus or Orangeways, depending upon your destination in Romania.
Bratislava: For information on direct buses from Bratislava Airport see here.
Nitra, Košice and the rest of Slovakia: There are more frequent buses if you change buses in Bratislava, for instance on SlovakLines.
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Dually-Named Stations Several stations have more than one name. Get the idea the city and the railways have a tense history?
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Vienna has a good public transport system [90], which includes rail, commuter rail, underground, trams (trolleys), and buses. The subway/underground is very efficient and will take you to within a few minutes walk of anywhere you are likely to want to visit. The subway alone has the second highest per-capita ridership in the world, and that is not accounting for the 27 tram lines, dozens of train lines or numerous buses.
Public transportation with-in the city proper, including most everywhere you are likely to visit (the entire subway and tram network) is a single zone (Kernzone 100). Any transportation can be used: subway, any train--even high-speed ones as long as you are traveling between two Vienna stations, trams, buses, night buses, and an inter-urban railway (the Wiener Lokalbahn) with-in the city limits.
You must validate (stamp) your ticket if the time and date is not printed on it before entering the subway platform or train, or as soon as you get on a bus or tram. If in doubt stamp it once. You do not need to show your ticket to the bus or tram operator. The system is proof-of-payment, although there are not many spot-checks, the fee for traveling without a ticket is €70.
Tickets are availible at machines (Visa, MC accepted) and from counters at subway and rail stations as well as at tabacco shops (Tabak "Trafik").
Note that children (up to 14 years) do not need a ticket on Sundays, holidays and during Austrian school vacations. Children (15-19 years) also do not, if they are enrolled in school in Austria.
If you're staying for a few days and hope to do tons of sightseeing and/or shopping, the Vienna Card (Wien Karte) [91] is a good deal. It costs €18.50 and is good for 72 hours of unlimited public transit within Vienna. The card also gets you discounts (typically €1 or €2 at the major museums and art galleries) to many attractions and shops. You can buy it at the airport, hotels, and underground stops.
See the airport section for details on transfer to/from the airport.
The best rail (heavy rail and underground) transport map [92] is displayed at all ÖBB stations. There are so many lines that maps are normally very simplifed and maps of the tram network are not even published. It can pay to ask or check the best connection ahead of time [93]. Major stations are well signed and connections are schedualed to match-up if service isn't frequent.
Vienna's rail network is often overlooked by tourists. The S-Bahn are trains running frequently outside of the core of Vienna and to nearby suburban areas and towns. You can also take regular trains with-in Vienna, for instance a high-speed train bound for Hungary from Wien Westbahnhof to Wien Miedling.
The most important rail streches:
Rail trips past the edge of Vienna (in Vienna all rail stations start with "Wien") require an extra ticket. These are avaible as zones in VOR (Austria's Eastern Transit Region) or as point to point tickets from the railways. It is easiest to buy extra zones from the edge of the city. If you have a Vorteilscard a railway ticket will be cheaper; if you are planning to transfer to a bus the VOR-ticket is also valid for it, with-in the same zone.
The five U-bahn lines (i.e. U1) are the most common way of getting around Vienna. These underground, metro or subway lines have trains every 2-7 minutes and cover most of the important parts of the city and sights.
Tram(Bim, Straßenbahn) lines have just a plain number or letter (i.e. O,1). There are 27 lines which stop locally, useful for taking things a bit slower and seing more of the city.
The famous Ring lines were recently changed: there is a tourist tram[94] around the ring, or you can take tram 1 (bound for Prater-Hauptalle) from Oper to Schwedenplatz and take tram 2 (bound for Ottakring) from Schwedenplatz back to Oper.
The Wiener Lokalbahn (WLB) also referd to as the Badener-Bahn is an interurban railway traveling from the Opera running as a tram on-street southwest through Vienna to Miedling station where it becomes a railway continuing onwards through the 23rd District and through suburbs and the rolling wine hills in Lower Austria to Baden.
Bus lines are denoted by a number that ends in letter (i.e. 3A, 80B). You are unlikely to need to take a bus, but it is safe to assume if you see one that you can get on and it will take you to some higher form of transportation like the U-Bahn. Cheaper tickets (€1) are availible for most 'B' buses; regular tickets and passes are also valid.
The regular trams, trains and buses run until about 00:30 (just past midnight). Most of the commuter rail is shut between 1 AM and 4 AM. Luckily, a dense network of night buses is available for those who have a rather nocturnal approach to tourism. Regular tickets are valid. Most buses terminate at "Kärntner Ring, Oper", which allows for easy interchange. Intervals are usually 30 minutes, with some busier lines (especially on Friday and Saturday night) traveling more frequently. Normal service resumes at 5 AM. From summer 2010 all U-Bahn lines will 24 hours on Friday and Saturday.
Taxis are plentiful and can normally be hailed on the street or found at a taxi-stand. Fares are technically set to a meter price but if you prefer you can negotiate a fare. Always negotiate when traveling to the Airport or outside of the city limits as fares are not set. Pedicabs, horse-drawn coaches and the like are also availible.
Avoid driving a car within the central ring if possible. While cars are allowed on many of the streets there, the streets are narrow and mostly one-way. They can be confusing for a visitor and parking is extremely limited (and restricted during the day). Due to the comprehensiveness of the transit system, you most likely will not need a car within Vienna, except for excursions elsewhere.
Furthermore, it might be a good idea to leave your car at home during rush hours. Vienna's streets can become a little clogged in the mornings and early evenings and the drivers are not really known for being especially polite and friendly.
Pedestrians have the right of way in crossing all roads at a crosswalk where there is no pedestrian signal present. If there is such a pedestrian crossing on an otherwise straight section of the road, there will be a warning sign – you are required to yield to any pedestrian on this crossing! Austrians accustomed to experienced local drivers will step out with little thought and force you to stop, so slow down here and be careful! When driving in a neighborhood this "right of way to pedestrians" is an understood rule at every intersection, although pedestrians will be more careful before they step out. Again, be on the lookout for this – if you see a pedestrian waiting to cross, you should stop at the intersection for him or her.
Cycling is another option for travelling within Vienna, although it is still seen more as a lesiure activity in Vienna. [95] Vienna's compact size makes cycling attractive. On a bicycle you can reach most places of interest within half an hour. There are many bicycle paths and lanes along major streets, in parks, and by the rivers. However, it can be complicated to cross town because the lanes follow illogical routes. One major complaint is that bicycle facilites were an afterthought and this is very appearant, many stop lights and intersections are dangerously or annoyingly set for bicyclists and paths are very illogical: they are sometimes on-street sometimes off, sometimes shared with pedestrians, sometimes not, and can vary or end out of nowhere. You are required by law to use a bike lane or path if there is one, unless it is blocked, otherwise regular traffic laws apply. Lights are required at night as are independently functioning brakes.
If your destination is in the outer suburbs, or you want to take a relaxed ride to the countryside, you may consider taking your bike on the U-Bahn (prohibited at rush hour, and always in buses and trams) or on a train. You need a reduced (children's) ticket for your bike.
Walking can also be very pleasant. The inner ring is quite compact with lots of pleasant cobblestoned and paved streets. It can be crossed in about 20 minutes.
Bring a comfortable pair of walking shoes as this is the most common way of getting around.
There are 21 markets [173] with stands and small shops in Vienna that are open daily (except Sunday). Additionally many of these have true farmers' markets, often on Saturday mornings. There is a large variety of sellers and markets, from the upscale to the dirt cheap. Each has several shops of different kinds (butcher, bakery, produce, coffee, etc.). There is another handful of weekly farmers markets [174] around the city as well as seasonal markets like the christmas markets.
Viennese supermarkets are not very large, especailly compared with the hypermarkets covering the rest of Central Europe. However, there is practically one on every corner. They are open about 7 AM to 7 PM M-F and 7 AM to 6 PM on Saturday. Only two stores in train stations (Praterstern and Franz-Josef-Bahnhof) and at the airport are open later and on Sunday. Hofer [175], Penny [176], and Lidl [177] strive to be discount stores, whereas Billa [178], SPAR [179] and Zielpunkt [180] as well as the larger Merkur [181] tout selection and quality. There is not a major difference in prices. Most regular stores have a deli where the clerks make sandwiches for the cost of the ingrediants you select. Altough many products are Austrian, none of the supermarket chains are actually Austrian-owned, try to support the local economy by frequenting independet shops or visiting actual markets.
Upscale grocers are not common in Vienna.
True factory stores:
Charity auctions are common in Vienna. Some stores give their proceeds to social programms (often second-hand store back-to-work programs similar to Goodwill, or other charity shops).
Open from Nov 15s or 20s to Dec 23th or 24th, most Viennese Christmas Markets ("Christkindlmarkt", "Adventmarkt" or simply "Weihnachtsmarkt") are not so much for shopping as for eating and drinking. From midday until the late hours of the night, people gather at Christmas markets to drink mulled wine, punch, and chat to one another and the occasional stranger. Entry to all of these markets is free.
Refer to [191] for a comprehensive listing of all relevant Christmas Markets in Vienna, including short descriptions, pictures, opening hours, directions and weblinks.
Further afield a famous and overly bustling Christmas market may be found at Grafenegg castle [192]. Entry is €7, children under the age of 12 are free.
| This guide uses the following price ranges for a typical meal for one, including soft drink: | |
| Budget | Below €10 |
| Mid-range | €10-20 |
| Splurge | €20+ |
Viennese restaurant menus offer a bewildering variety of terms for dishes, most of which the visitor will never have heard of and many of which aren't in the brief lists of menu terms included in phrase books. However restaurants that have any foreign patrons at all usually have an English menu, though you may have to ask for it: the phrase "English menu" usually will be understood even by wait staff who don't speak English. A small bilingual dictionary will be useful for trying to decipher menu listings: at least it will enable you usually to determine what sort of food (chicken, beef, potato, etc.) is concerned, even if you can't tell how it's prepared. Note that not only savoury but also sweet main dishes are common in Austria.
Viennese restaurant portions tend to be large. Recently many restaurants are including more vegetarian options. Most restaurants have daily specials listed on a chalk board or sometimes on a printed insert in the regular menu. These are usually the best bet, though they may not be on the English menu, so you may have to ask to have them explained or try to translate them yourself.
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Smoking Smoking is ubiquitous in Vienna restaurants. A small red sticker on the door means no-smoking a green means smoking, both mean there is a seperate non-smoking section. Even at outdoor tables, neighbors' smoke may be bothersome. It is polite to ask tablemates permission before lighting up after a meal. |
Bread in Viennese restaurants is usually charged as an extra; if there is a basket of it on the table, you'll usually be charged by the piece only if you take some.
Tipping customs are similar to those in Europe and America though tips are slightly smaller; ten percent is usually sufficient in restaurants. Traditionally the way to tip a waiter is to mention the amount of the bill plus tip when you pay; for instance, if the bill is €15.50 you could give the waiter a €20 note and say "siebzehn (seventeen)," meaning he is to take out €15.50 for the bill, €1.50 for the tip, and so give you only €3 change. In this situation English numbers will usually be understood. Sometimes in less formal restaurants you can alternatively drop the tip into the money pouch the waiter usually carries.
Credit cards aren't quite as commonly used in restaurants in Vienna as in Northern European countries, so ask if it's important to know before hand.
The traditional Viennese fast food is sausage in all shapes and sizes. You can buy hot sausages and hot dogs at snack bars called "Würstlstand" all over the town. The famous Wiener Würstel is known as "Frankfurter" in Vienna, but many inhabitants prefer Bosna (with onions and curry), Burenwurst, and Käsekrainer or "Eitrige" (with melted cheese inside).
In addition to this, the local snack culture also includes more ex-Yugoslavian and Turkish varieties of fast food, such as the Döner Kebap, sandwiches of Greek and Turkish origin with roasted meat, lettuce, tomatoes, onions, and yogurt and/or hot sauce. Places that sell kebap often sell take-away slices of pizza too.
Good kebaps can be bought at the Naschmarkt. The lower end of the Naschmarkt (further away from Karlsplatz or city centre) is cheaper than the upper end (closer to Karlsplatz), and the right lane (facing away from the city centre) is reserved for mostly sit-down eateries. Another good place to find snacks (especially while going out) is Schwedenplatz, also on the U4 and U1 line.
By far the cheapest way to get a fast food meal in Austria (and probably the only meal available for just over €1) is buying an Austrian sandwich (sliced brown bread + ham/cheese + gherkin) from a supermarket. Supermarkets with a deli counter (Feinkostabteilung) will prepare sandwiches to take away at no extra charge. You only pay for the ingredients. There is usually a large selection of meat products, cheese, and bread rolls available here, too. You point at the combination you want, can also mention the max total you can pay, and then pay at the cash register. Freshness and quality are normally better than at a sandwich stand on the street.
If you're staying inside the Ring or to its south, you're best bet for dinner is to walk to the Naschmarkt: there are 15-20 restaurants there ignoring the city's imperial interiors, and most are absolutely mid-range (i.e. with mains averaging €8-15). Most of them are smoker-friendly and packed-and-loud in the evening.
Otherwise, consider some picks in the city:
You can buy excellent ice cream (Eis) at a number of places.
Vienna's Kaffeehäuser (coffee houses) are world famous for their grandness and the lively coffee house culture. Skiping the Kaffeehauskultur is missing out a big part of Viennese culture. You should at least visit one of the countless traditional baroque 19th or funky 20th century coffee houses where you can sit down, relax, and enjoy refreshments.
Most cafés also serve beer, wine and liqueurs. Many serve meals, especially at lunch, and these are often cheaper than in restaurants. Most have a fine selection of Torten (tortes or cakes), some offer other baked goods. In general some are more resturant-like, some more café-like and some more bar-like.
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"Entschuldigen Sie Frau/Herr Ober!" Although the head waitress/waiter (Ober) of most cafés is not nearly as snooty as you might let on, there are some definate don'ts:
Remember cafés are a very slow paced, approach them as you would a sit-down resturant, bring a book or some freinds, or make use of the newspapers on hand and enjoy your hours relaxing there! |
Coffee is obviously an important part of the coffeehouse culture. Vienna was not only the center of the Austrian Empire but also the center of a much larger coffee empire, and the roasts were sold across Europe. Today many people are still farmiliar with the term Vienna roast.
Vienna prides itself of its dozens of varieties of different coffees, although the Italian style and names are better known by many youth than the Viennese, the cafés are keeping the tarditions alive. Most commonly:
Also consider specialties like the Kaisermelange (coffee, milk, egg yolk and cognac) on the menu. Most cafés have a house specialty called for instance Kaffee Central at Café Central.
Finding a café is not hard in Vienna. Find a particular café you are looking for is another story. Most of the baroque "top" coffee houses are on the Ring and main streets of the Innere Stadt (District 1), mostly cozier and often less formal 1970s or 80s modern style coffee houses are hidden away on the Innere Stadt's backstreets, and distributed across the rest of the city.
Rather unusually it is necessary to say some words about Vienna's drinking water which is really unique in Europe. The majority of Vienna's water comes from the three "Hochquellwasserleitungen." Meaning "high-(as in mountain) spring waterlines (as in aqueducts). Indeed the city's water flows through aqueducts from the mountains around 100 kilometres south of Vienna (Schneeberg and Hochschwab). These were built during the reign of Emperor Franz Josef and supply Vienna with nearly unchlorinated high-quality drinking water, with a considerably higher quality that many bottled waters. So if you visit this city, it is not necessary to buy water, you can simply drink tap water here - unless you prefer sparkling water.
Another speciality is that at typical coffeehouses a coffee is always accompanied by a glass of cold clear water. And there is a law that in any restaurant you can get a glass of drinking water for free with any order, just specify tap water ("Leitungswasser").
New wine is usually enjoyed at a Heurigen (family-run vineyard bars allowed to the the new vintage). Austria in general, but especially the area around Vienna, produces quite a large amount of wine each year. There are even many vineyards within the city in Döbling (19th District). The wine is not often exported and white is more common than red. Grüner Veltliner is a common tart and fresh white wine served almost everywhere. Officially the new wine season begins on November 11 (St Martin's Day), but as early as September, some partially-fermented new wine (called Sturm which is cloudy, because it has not been strained) is available around town at stands and in 2L green bottles (try the Naschmarkt – sometimes the vendors will have samples, it is less strong than wine, about 4 percent alcohol ). Taverns can call themselves Heurigens whether the wine they serve is their own or not – for genuine in-house product look for a Buschenschank. This is a particularly Viennese Heuriger which can only be open 300 days per year or until their supply of house-made wine runs out. Heurigen can be found e.g. in Grinzing, Sievering (19th district) and Mauer & Rodaun (23rd district) areas, but also in almost every suburban area in Vienna. Even in the center, there are some Stadtheurigen. While the Heurigen of Grinzing are bigger and more famous with tourists, they are often a rip-off. If any of the year’s vintage lasts until next year, it officially becomes Alte (old) wine on the next Saint Martin's Day. The Heurigen in the South of Vienna or in Hagenbrunn, for example Karl Matzka [242], hard to reach by public transport.
After a long day, the perfect place to relax among Viennese are the Heurigen in the suburbs. Somewhat akin to a beer garden, except with wine, these tiny treasures are the only places authorized to serve new wine. New wine is made from the first pressing of the grape and can appear a little cloudy. Be careful, it's stronger than you might think! This is why it's served in very small glasses, .25L and up. Some Heurigen serve food, either elaborate Viennese specialties or very simple bread and cheese platters. No matter which one you choose, you're guaranteed to enjoy yourself. Just hop on a convenient outbound tram line, take it to the very last stop, and look for buildings with large, evergreen foliage hung over the doors. Each one is unique, but all are a good bargain. Locals invariably have a favorite: ask around.
Despite Vienna's stuck-up reputation don't be led to believe it is a quiet city. There are diverse cafés, bars, clubs, parties and festivilles as well as thriving noctornal prostitution and casino scenes.
The café scene often continues into the early hours, during the week and on weekends. Additionally there are many traditional neighborhood bars some which also have Viennese food. Most popular though, are bars (some with a nominal cover fee) with a dj and small dance floor. These are quite comfortable and there are plenty to meet anyones musical taste, many are open all night.
Although "mainstream" is hardly a majority of people in Vienna it is still refered to as such. Even here there is quite a bit of variance between places the conservative working class goes out and the conservative upper class tends to go.
Although the gay night life in Vienna is not concentrated, its blossoming. It can be hard even for locals to keep up with whats on offer, but luckly it doesn't matter since the Vienna is accepting and you can go out where ever, and even meet other queers be that your intention. Austria is a very conservative Catholic country, during the day gay and lesbian couples might get some stares, especailly from the older generations but at night most of the conservative people have gone to bed.
Brothels are legal in Vienna, as is street prostitution and pimping. There are male and female prositutes, many from Austria's neighboring countries (few from Austria), but also from Africa, Latin America and Asia offering their services. Brothels differ greatly from small to the point one-room operations to hoakey grad parlors. There is no true red-light district, but there are many 'bars' located on the 'Gürtel' as well as in the 2nd District, but they can be found everywhere. Street prostitution areas exist but should be avoided due to the low-regulation and high amount of trafficed and unregistered workers. There are plenty of gogo clubs as well though, that are not brothels. Some of these have male and female dancers dancing together and are frequented by men and women together.
Casinos are plentiful in Vienna. Also a spectrum hole-in-the-wall places with machines to the hoakey Eastern-European style with pumping music and strobes on the facade to grand elite places.