• Take a shower in the huge subterranean Hammans.

• The Friday Mosque is more than 800 years old, full of life and incredibly beautiful. Its minarets dominate the old town.

• The Citadel is in on a hill to the west of the old city, with great views overlooking the city. It has recently reopened to visitors after being used by the military to store ammunition for the last few years. It has a great and eerie deserted feel, and you're free to roam and climb around all you want - however, be a little careful, some of the paths are slightly precarious. On the way out the guards may try and stab you with a $5 entrance fee, which they have tickets to back up... this is an outrageous fee, and you can get by with $1 or $2 if you're willing to argue, which you should.

• Musalla Complex, about 2 km due north of the Citadel. Once a collection of minarets, a mosque and a medressa, all that remains is 1 minaret with a hole blown out of one side, leaning at a precarious angle and supported by cables. Near this is the large domed tomb of Gowhar Shad, who commissioned the original complex.

• Minarets of Sultan Baiqara, next to the Musalla Complex. The 4 minarets are all that remains of the medressa that he built. The new Iranian-built road cuts directly through them, two on each side. Most of the once beautiful blue tiling has vanished.

• Tomb of Jami. Jami was a very famous 15th century sufi poet. His tomb is highly revered, and popular with local women. To get here, walk roughly a kilometre north from the Baiqara minarets along the main road. When you get to a junction with a large monument in the center, look out to the left and the large building that looks like a mosque is the one. There is a taxi stand near the junction if your out of steam or heading to Gazar Gah (50 Afg) or Takht-e Safar.

• Gazar Gah is the large and famous sufi shrine of Khoja Abdullah Ansari. His tomb is the large blue structure at the back. There is no entrance fee, but donations are appreciated.

• Takht-e Safar, a very old and famous park situated near the mountain close to Gazar Gah.

By plane

The small airport is 15km south of the city.

Daily flights are operated from Kabul by Kam Air and Ariana for 3250 Afg / $65, and the UN operates some flights as well. Pamir Airways is a new carrier, flying daily between Kabul and Herat.

By car

• The road from Farah.
• The road from Iran is reported to be good.
• The road from Mazar-e Sharif via Maimana is in bad shape, has recently become quite dangerous and is not recommended.
• The central route to Kabul via Chagcheran and the Minaret of Jam is a very rough 3-6 day journey, sleeping in chaikanas along the way. Several travelers have recently done this route and reported no safety issues. However, from Bamiyan it is currently advisable to take the longer northern route to Kabul, as the southern route is of questionable safety.

• There are several antique shops on the north side of the mosque that sell jewelry, tea pots, old coins, traditional clothing, etc. Bargain hard and in Afghanis!

Money

• There are money changers near Chowk Gulha and along Bagh-e Azadi, north of the old city.
• Western Union [1], Bagh-e Azadi, near Da Afghanistan Bank.
• Afghanistan International Bank (AIB) [2], Bagh-e Azadi. This location has an ATM but is closed on Fridays.
• Kabul Bank [3] has a branch in Herat. It also has western union services.
• Bank Alfalah Limited* Herat Branch, Ground Floor, Chamber of Commerce & Industries, Herat Blood Bank Street, Herat, Afghanistan tel 0093-40-230704

• Chaikanas are plentiful, and serve cheap local Afghani food.

• Shahiste Restaurant, jad-e Badmurghan, is in the Marco Polo Hotel and is the best restaurant in the city. Menu changes daily, and usually features several Iranian/Afghani options. Meals from around 70Af.

• Fardeen Supermarket, jad-e Ghomandani, about two blocks north of Bagh-e Azadi. A well-stocked supermarket with plenty of western and Iranian imports.